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Removing the rear stat gear from the rear iron without being able to pound it out from the combustion arear I would thing would be pretty tough. With the block safety wired it shouldn't move and the e-shaft will keep the rotor in place. Things I would watch for are side/corner seals coming out of place, assist pieces moving around as well. Actually, I would take the rotor out VERY carefully and reglue the apex seals to make sure they don't bind and ruin a housing becuase, that would suck
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-The Angry Stig-
DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC
DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!!
2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4
2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter
2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins
1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle
1988 'Vert - In progress
1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST!
I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you?
I'm pure Evil
I'm still insane, in the best possible way.
I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube.
Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion.
You win with your thread. Most everything
It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact
Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff....
No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon.
-Angry Motherf*cker Mode ENGAGED-
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