Quote:
Originally Posted by TitaniumTT
Than it should be ok ESPECIALLY if it still has the same cal file on it.
What's your base FPSI?
 Doesn't tell much without it being revv'ed to where it's fucking up.
Or just rotate it and check the gap at each tooth.
Better would be to get an o-scope on the pins at the ECU and make sure it's getting a clean signal. FD harnesses aren't known for their robustness and something could've broken when the removed/installed. Or the sensors themselves are FUBAR.
Yeah.... 11's is just way to fucking fat and it may just be a tuning issue. If the ECU still has Peters map on it and it's not a setup, fuel/ignition cut, sensor/harness thing, you can try turning down the base FPSI until it's idling around .12.5-13:1 when at operating temp and then try revving it to see what happens. Changing the base FPSI will alter the entire "tune" without altering it... if that makes sense.
Well... what are the AFR's when it's stuttering @ 2k?
So not that powerful 
How wet are they?
You don't have to de-pin them, just look at them. You can also check the resistance between the ECU and the sensor pins, check the shielding, check the sensors.
 Truff.... |
Base fuel pressure is 43 psi but can easily change it
I'll get another video revving it on Friday so you can see. That is if the power fc doesn't magically make it work
I know you say 11 is too fat - I believe you, don't worry, but that is the target AFR according to the map so I don't know what to tell you there
I'm not sure the *exact* AFR when it starts cutting out but basically it revs normal, hits 2k, and you can hear there is absolutely no firing, the momentum the engine has caries the rpm up to about 2500 but you can hear it audibly cut out at about 2k, like there is nothing going on past there. So the AFR past 2k basically maxes out my meter at like 19+ cause it's just pumping a bunch I air through the engine at that point.
I'll upgrade ignition later cut a guy a break
Whenever I pulled them it was running on 1 rotor, so I'd sometimes have to pull them to deflood so .. Quite wet. Since it's been firing on 2 rotors I haven't really pulled them. All I an tell you is that I have idled the car for right around 15 seconds, killed it, and cranked it right back over and it starts no problem. Does the lack of flooding tell you anything you might want to know?
Like I know you're suggesting that there's too much fuel but is that something that could cause the 2k thing or is that another issue in itself? I think I need to just see if the ecu is cutting fuel or spark as a first step
I will check all that, I do remember testing the sensors as per FSM and they were right in spec.
BTW, I'm not able to do anything on the car during the week so that's why I can't just give you straight up answers on a lot of this. Gotta wait till Friday