[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by Mitchocalypse

Ecu is the link that rice had in the SP

Than it should be ok ESPECIALLY if it still has the same cal file on it.

What's your base FPSI?

Originally Posted by Mitchocalypse

The video you saw was really dumpy and not even running on 2 rotors. Did some fixing up and now at least both rotors are firing. This is a better vid:
YOUTUBE]

Still will be iphone quality though lol

Doesn't tell much without it being revv'ed to where it's fucking up.

Originally Posted by Mitchocalypse

I'll check the wheel to make sure but I can't see there bein an issue there. It was pulled working fine and sat flat on a shelf for a year an a half. To check it what do I do just lay it on a flat surface or what?

Or just rotate it and check the gap at each tooth.

Better would be to get an o-scope on the pins at the ECU and make sure it's getting a clean signal. FD harnesses aren't known for their robustness and something could've broken when the removed/installed. Or the sensors themselves are FUBAR.

Originally Posted by Mitchocalypse

I have no knowledge whatsoever of tuning. I just see the crosshairs on the PC interface for the ecu in a certain target AFR cell an cross reference that with my wideband.. They are right around the same? At that point I assume it's all okay but I guess that isn't really a good assumption.

Yeah.... 11's is just way to fucking fat and it may just be a tuning issue. If the ECU still has Peters map on it and it's not a setup, fuel/ignition cut, sensor/harness thing, you can try turning down the base FPSI until it's idling around .12.5-13:1 when at operating temp and then try revving it to see what happens. Changing the base FPSI will alter the entire "tune" without altering it... if that makes sense.

Well... what are the AFR's when it's stuttering @ 2k?

Originally Posted by Mitchocalypse

Ignition is just the HKS unit and newer FD coils. Plugs are just the bur9eqp for now until the engine is broken in

So not that powerful

Originally Posted by Mitchocalypse

I've pulled them a few times - what specifically did you want to know?

How wet are they?

Originally Posted by Mitchocalypse

To check the crank signal pins are intact I should just pull them out?

You don't have to de-pin them, just look at them. You can also check the resistance between the ECU and the sensor pins, check the shielding, check the sensors.

Originally Posted by Mitchocalypse

Now that I think about it one thin I should have done is hook the ecu up to a computer just to see if it's actually cutting fuel or ignition. Kind of hard to tell what's going on when the only thing you know is that it doesn't run

Truff....