Quote:
Originally Posted by antman0408
I told you to check the voltage at the pump. Glad you got it figured out, and can finally get to run it sequential, I'm really interested in seeing what it can do.
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I did check the voltage at the pump. The issue was though, and this is why it was so fricken hard to find, is that it was only doing it on the dyno. On the dyno we're asking it to pump out 55+psi for hours on end. What was happening was the wiring was getting warm to the touch. When I was checking voltages at home it was 1/2 a volt low. On the dyno, after constant abuse, when the wiring was warm, she was showing much lower than that.
Quote:
Originally Posted by antman0408
Your car is contagious, Im having a similar problem you had. I went to the track on Friday and it started misfiring, did a datalog and found out I was hitting 12.9-13.0 afr in boost. 
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OUCH! That's not horribly lean though. As long as you weren't making massive amounts of boost everything should be just fine. What's she doing?
Quote:
Originally Posted by WE3RX7
I just watched your autox vid, lol... "YEA" I love that reaction... car looks like a monster though I love it. It gives me a pit in my stomach though knowing how much farther I have to go on mine  Ah well, it'll be worth it....
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 Yeah, everyone seems to mock me a little for that reaction. I shaved 4 seconds of my previous time and beat up on about 1/2 the 400+AWD cars there so I was REALLY happy with that run.
Over the winter I need to get 4 things squared away -
1) a set of dedicated race rims/tires. Looking @ RPF01 in a 17x8.5+30 with a 255/40/17 V710 and a 17x9.5 +40 with a 275/40/17 V710. That should get me some more traction.
2) Also going to do traction control as well. I found that in the higher gears I'm actually running faster. I believe becuase I'm not losing as much traction. BUT, it's a little harder to drive at the limit. I know I can get faster times. I checked the datalogs and I hit 100% throttle position ONCE! What I would love to be able to do is get the sequentials set up and be able to come out of a turn in 2nd gear and just MASH the pedal and let the MoTeC keep the ass where she should be for the most part.
3) Also on that traction control issue is a feature in the MoTeC that allows you to mash the pedal and it will stutter the igntion at the RPM where the next LOWEST gear is. So, if I'm coming into a turn, clutch in, heel-toe, as soon as the ignition stutters I know that the tranny will slide right into gear. Yes the Motec is badass!
4) 6-spd needs to be finished. The ratios in the Type R box BLOW for for auto-x. Losing a lot of torquw when shifting into 2nd. The 6-spd will tighten everything up just enough, or so I believe based on the math. I'll be able to shift into 2nd and be above 4500 rpms.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbo II Rotor
Finally. Sounds like you might want to upgrade that relay to something with contacts rated for a little more amperage. Something with a magnetic blow out would be nice but probably overkill.
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The one in there now is rated for 40A. That should be enough. Pump is only pulling ~12A
Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbo II Rotor
Btw since you have a thirst for knowledge like me, the contacts arc more when they break instead of make since it will pull an arc across the air gap. Air is a semi-conductor.
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Interesting. So when the relay is run to trigger the hot, she'll arc twice, but only once when triggering the hot?
BTW Scott, any other meets before the snow starts flying? I think she's coming off the road the weekend after turkey day
__________________
-The Angry Stig-
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Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff....
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Last edited by TitaniumTT; 11-10-2009 at 12:08 PM.
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