Rotary Car Club - 700+rwhp 13b-rew/re half-bridge For Sale. Immaculate!!

Rotary Car Club (https://rotarycarclub.com/index.php)

- Defined Autoworks (https://rotarycarclub.com/forumdisplay.php?f=215)

- - 700+rwhp 13b-rew/re half-bridge For Sale. Immaculate!! (https://rotarycarclub.com/showthread.php?t=17475)

700+rwhp 13b-rew/re half-bridge For Sale. Immaculate!!

One of our actual House Engines has been completely rebuilt and ready for a new lucky owner.

Has all of the Defined Auto "signature" modifications.

This is the actual engine out of our Nissan S14 roadrace car. It produced 530rwhp at a mere 17psi of boost (have dyno chart), and only a 35R turbo. It was removed and FULLY rebuilt, basically a brand new engine. Excellent multi-purpose 13b, will take serious punishment on the street, drag racing, or road racing.

500-700 rwhp, 8500rpm continuous, 9000rpm non-continuous is a walk in the park.

Will handle massive horsepower, it is the ultimate of all 13b's engines produced wrapped up into one amazing powerplant. Not easy to build because multiple 13b parts are needed.

Here is a breakdown/costs of all the parts, and specialty work put into this engine-

13b-Re engine from Japan $1500
parts sold off RE engine -$500
Two new OEM 89-95 rotor housings $1400
FD front and rear irons used $700
FD stationary gears $200
13b-rew engine rebuild, Goopy 2mm apex seals, FD heavy springs $2400
Competition oil control ring springs $25
Mazdacomp metal front cover gasket $35
Coolant jacket modifications $250
Street port primaries, Half bridge port secondaries $850
Goopy oversize bolts plus machine work $550
Dynamic balancing $600
Race clearancing of rotor sides $400
Lapping, re-nitrating, reconditioning side housings $750
Micro-polished eccentric shaft $120
Blueprinted bearing clearances $120
Weber oil jets in eccentric shaft plus install $100
550cc primary injectors, 1600cc secondary injectors $350
Custom AN fittings on RE rail $150
Ported oil pump entrance $200
Aluminum underdrive main pulley, waterpump pulley $170
FD waterpump $75
Auto rear counterweight $180
Brand new oil pump and chain $200
FD throttle body $120
GM style d-shaft TPS sensor $85
FD Greddy Elbow $150
PPP performance intake gaskets $60

total $11,250.00

Selling at a STEEP STEEP discount of $6800

Will take in core FD engines for a flat rate of $800

Pimpin!!! I know this will sell pretty quick, bc last beast motor you had on here moved pretty quickly.

Yeah hopefully this one sells just as quick :)

Quote:

Originally Posted by RedR1 (Post 250139)

Pimpin!!! I know this will sell pretty quick, bc last beast motor you had on here moved pretty quickly.

Resolution Performed. Thank you.

Just a heads up I will also take payments split into 3 months. More of a layaway plan. Paypal (credit) is always accepted.

:drool:

how would this fair sans turbo running naturally aspirated?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Whizbang (Post 252634)

:drool:

how would this fair sans turbo running naturally aspirated?

The port timing on exhaust is not super aggressive for na but could still do 215-235 range

Doing a one time price drop, it wont be going any lower!

New Price $6000 firm!

Crazy awesome price, impeccable build. Defined work is always top notch. I do hope this sells quick. GTO, might you have some rotor housings laying about I could buy off you?

This is just a question:
Why is the rotor land machined/ground? it looks like in the pictures that there is no land to tip clearance? the lands are never machined, even in engines I have built that do 12,000rpm, however the area between the tips to the oil control rings is clearance down 0.15mm under the std clearance.

I pulled apart a motor from a self professed expert here who is known in the circuit racing realm and they looked just like these, they were ground inc the lands and there was ZERO clearance, the end result was the tips crashed into the side plates!!!!

The idea many builders get wrong is you take NOTHING off the lands as they are fine stock std, they need to act as a 'bearing' surface and act as a support to stop the tips from hitting the side plates.

Please excuse if yours are machined correctly, but I still don't get why the lands are machined either way.