Q on the clutch pedal
 

Well, this seemed like the least-unfit section to post this. For awhile, the clutch had a soft feel to it, and attempts at bleeding the slave yielded sputtering and spitting now matter how much was bled, the screw just didn't work right. So fast forward a few months and I'm driving home from class at an exuberant rate, and the clutch pedal sticks to the floor. After promptly crapping myself, I pull over and free the pedal from the phantom catching. I thought that one or both cylinders in the clutch circuit were going, but the sticking pedal has not returned (albeit no spirited driving) and after adjusting the slack out of the pedal, it feels nice and firm.

Someone on RX7club.com posted on another person asking about a similar experience and said that a maladjusted pedal could cause it to stick...any truth to this? It's approaching two weeks since it happened, and the clutch pedal hasn't stuck since.

I doubt it. Most likely a problem with the clutch master cylinder internal seal allowing the fluid to intermittently "leak" past the seal when depressing the pedal. Replace the master, and slave while you're at it, and bleed the system.

+1 FC clutch master cylinders suck. I've had 2 fail on me in the past and the one in my Rx-4 as well. That will be the cause of the problem. Also replace the slave cylinder too incase any debris from the clutch master got into it. Check your flex hose as well. All of these parts are now old and the rubber just fails.

I agree with above post.
You need to check for leaks on both Master Cylinders and Release Cylinders and hoses.
If one of the cylinders are worn, it is best to replace both Master and Release Cylinders.

It happend to me.
In 2006 I replaced the Release Cylinder then all of a sudden the next year the Master Cylinder gave up and was leaking badly.

Master is on it's way out. Happens every year when the weather turns cold, the hyrdo's start to fail.

TT is correct. Clutch pedal staying to floor is internal fluid bypass in the master. OH or renew. If you use a Mazda kit and the bore is not rusted/pitted it can be honed and used for another 100K as long as you change the fluid every 3year or 30K miles for normal driving conditions.
Biggest problem with Brake and clutch systems is that no one changes the fluid. As fluid gets old and dirty it has a tendency to absorb even more moisture, which settles at the bottom of the cylinders, rusting them, damaging the cups.
As I tell all my clients, brake fluid is cheaper than masters, slaves, calipers and cylinders. (that way we can put more money into the motor when it comes time)