My RX7SP build up
 

Bitches love fisting

Here is "finished" engine bay pics :)


http://www.aquamist.co.uk/forum/gall...5ricesp2-s.jpg

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/forum/gall...6ricesp2-s.jpg

I have a ram air sealed air box for my turbo inlet, there is a carbon duct going down into the nose cone main entry that feeds the air box, I should fit up a pressure sensor there and do some high speed tests.

http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/4515/img1517smb.jpg

http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/7213/img1525smb.jpg

Well Finally ! Tested & Finished :) *taken from another forum I posted up details, for reference this is a list of other cars at bottom of this page that I test to give relative performance in mild state of tune. Could will go even faster on same boost as at end of third gear it (last 5kph) got into higher EGT and the ECU increased the fueling (making engine too rich 10.6:1) to cool the EGT down (cost ~20rwkw in upper revs power), I have since redone the table to allow a higher EGT setting before automatic fuel enrichment will occur.

http://www.riceracing.com.au/vbox-ii...ing-tuning.htm

Logged the SP this morning and did some back pressure testing for SMB on the mid section street exhaust.

3rd gear 90-140 time of 3.11 seconds on 14.1psi boost pressure RR Water Injected,
Turbine speed 91068rpm
132kph = 0.443G < (10% more acceleration at same speed as ONE58 when I logged it at 12.2sec @ 118mph on street on 1.1bar boost on twins FMIC etc, driver only in car)
Turbine inlet pressure 12.0psi
Exhaust back pressure 2.63psi
6681rpm
11.36AFR
EGT 985deg C
Fuel pressure 64.98psi
Full boost = 3700rpm
Ambient temp 10.6deg C
Inlet manifold air temp on fast acting sensor = 32 deg C
need to do up the graphs, exhaust back pressure at 240rwkw on VBOX was 3.0psi @ 7500rpm (which I would class as quite good for 2 mufflers and a catalytic converter & plumb back waste gate set up).

Bitches love fisting

Here is the Kerb Weight of my RX7 SP (totally full fuel tank, all fluids, tools, spare tire etc, ready to run). My car has a 100+liter carbon fuel tank (you can see it just poking out the bottom left rear of the car) :smile:

2826Lb or ~1282kg as pictured.

(minus spare tire, tools, jack etc = 1264kg)

http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/9...kerbweight.jpg

http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/5...kerbweight.jpg

This may be of interest to some people, I still like to look at spark plugs after a long drive or extended use at a new setting on the engine parameters generally half a dozen full throttle applications is enough to establish what is happening via colors etc.

For those not familiar with rotary engines: (leading plug holes have a large opening to the combustion chamber and trailing plug holes have a smaller shielded hole) I use this visual check + EGT reading to balance any differences in the fuel air balance.
FL = front leading spark plug
FT = front trailing spark plug
RL = rear leading spark plug
RT = rear trailing spark plug
NGK 10 heat range plugs are 2000km old, run a 0.020" gap, Optimax Shell 98 Ron fuel, Mobil 1 engine oil (oil injected into motor), and Sthil 2 stroke premix at 180:1 mixed in with fuel also
10.9:1 AFR with 1.20kg/cm boost and 500cc Water Methanol at 50/50 mix, engine operating temp is 77~79 deg C

In case anyone is bored! Look On !!!
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/atta...or-missngk.jpg

Front Rotor
http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/147...ugsreading.jpg


Rear Rotor
http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/820...ugsreading.jpg

impressive!

Wow!

"very" nice work!!!!!!! Some of the best forsure.

Thanks for the nice words, its a pleasure to share this on overseas forums v's the rubbish in Australia (every second person here is a hater, especially in forum world).

I did what my limited skills and experience would allow, I am happy with the way it turned out and as I'm sure all of you can relate the best bit is driving her again and feeling the rotary power.
:driving:

I'll keep updating when I have more stuff to share :beatdeadhorse5:

Great thread and nice photos.

It's not completely clear from some of the photos, are you measuring exhaust backpressure at each of the runners, or pressure pre- and post-turbo? Also, is that a turbine speed sensor installed in the compressor housing?

Turbine inlet and Turbine outlet pressure are measured, EGT is measured on each rotor.

Turbine speed sensor is in compressor housing, correct.

Bitches love fisting

Impressive..

I am intrigued by this.. Can you tell us bit more about why this type of set up?

http://img375.imageshack.us/img375/4082/cop3.jpg

Phil, Not sure if you are interested in something he is doing specific but if its just the lack of wires with a coil on each plug. There was a few doing this last year on the other forum after seeing GM start this,

Overall? I wanted single turbo as its more reliable than twins. All the other stuff to do with data collection was for my own development stuff (I must put up the VBOX equipment and logs).

The ignition system set up was a thing I wanted to try myself (I currently do not run this due to a compatible issue with the ECU type I run and CDI ign systems so at the moment the trusty HKS DLI is installed with stock coils/wires etc). The idea is to have massive spark current/voltage and limited RFI (which I achieved) however CDI systems do not work as well as inductive at light loads and low rpm *even with multi spark* (HKS is superior), at the moment with my 50/50 water to methanol mix at 500cc/min the HKS DLI works perfectly and the car runs better on this ign than the race CDI spec set up so that is why I changed back from my expensive time consuming custom CDI coil on plug set up. *This pictured system does though fire a much stronger water only injection set up at almost double the flow rate* but due to my Link ECU not working with it (any similar full CDI system, tested with Motec, M&W, Dynatek) on the activation of a rev limiter or boost limiter its unsafe to run in all conditions.

All the other system parts IC set up, carbon air box etc are factory SP items on this very race car so wanted to retain the stock look of the car. My performance goal with it was to match a Ferrari F40. Looking to obtain ~500bhp *engine power* and a responsive engine to get to do 128 to 130mph trap speed in the 400m or 1/4 mile measurement with normal road tires (no quasi drag stuff needing burn outs etc etc).

She is set up as a road race car as you would call it.

Hope this gives a general over view.

Peter

All these great projects makes me not want to post up my car lol. That is a very unique coil system. All your stuff looks great.

I spy jizz on the ohlins! :rofl:

Peter Thanks for the info.

I followed your water injection for awhile back when. How are things going these days with that? Are you still spraying pre-turbo? Sorry.. I sometimes don't really everything... so my appologies if you posted that earlier.

That's ok its only the first pic in my thread :beatdeadhorse5: hahaha

^ I am still doing the same thing with my basic system, but in this version driving the high speed valve of a PWM circuit on my ECU to control the flow at medium engine speeds and varying map pressures (but its the same I offer in all my kits).

I love it (water injection) I really don't like rotaries that have no form of this stuff as they have proven to me to be very fragile and not durable at all (people have different standards in regards to that so its all relative). But yes WI all the way :icon_tup:

As always very nice work Peter. Wish I had the time and funds to experiment with all sorts of new things. I have so many interests in life it's impossible to devote enough time to learn everything!

Tested the compression of the engine after 1800km and its good for a rotary at around ~122psi @ 250rpm (front and rear rotor same) cranking speed. Will keep an eye over this long term.

http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/998...mp1800kmfr.jpg

I changed the porting specification (compared to pictures posted, ports are stock) to give the engine much more mid range power and not concentrate on top end power so much, it is quite fast on road despite relative lower levels of peak power. I am projecting it will have a honest 480bhp to 500bhp (at the higher 1.4 boost setting) but will see what happens when I get around to testing this.

wow my eyes hurt from the bad ass pictures you posted up nice FD dude NICE!

So am I wrong or isnt this motor toast? Sad to here.

Peter,

Your setup is the best I have seen. Your idea of making an all around super car the way Mazda would have made it (if they thought they could still sell it) is right on the money.

Rebuild that engine and keep going ahead.

I always say, "Who better to have an engine failure than someone who can rebuild it easily and learn from the failure what new parts or proceedures to use or avoid in the future."

Barry

Oh god yes.

Been a while since I have posted here, thanks so much for the kind comments :icon_tup:

I have been running my new set up for around 76 hours (as recorded on the ECU) covered about 4500km and its been good. This second half of the year I have been concentrating on other things but plan to put a Race Brake set up on the car and run a little more turbo boost pressure (around 22psi) I have it on 18.5psi for around 40 hours use and have proven to myself (lol) that it is very reliable at this setting (~440bhp engine power). I have done in street mode (0-100kmh in 4.40 seconds) 12.42 seconds @ 122mph for 1320ft test (no roll out) when the car was at 1380kg (3042lb) weight (with 100lt fuel and driver).

Not sure if people here are interested? but I have dozens of VBOX power data logs showing things like turbine pressure, turbo speed, boost pressure, rear wheel power output, fuel pressure etc etc.

p.s. I need to ad the original engine was never "toast" despite what you may read on hater forums :rofl: I changed out the motor for a different specification of port & seal product to my own development. Any pics you may see or apparent correspondence quoted/attributed to me is just 2nd, 3rd hand doctored rumor from (I must add) well documented and proven trolls and haters. It is a shame some people have nothing better to do with their time :rofl:

Here is one graph, I think I posted one from earlier testing on about 14psi boost? this is the current level which I wanted to do long term durability testing on (not a few track days followed by hidden rebuilds like some people....). I covered over the 50 hours I wanted to do and also tested in very adverse weather conditions (up to 38 deg C, and including heat soak tests then re running at full power settings). It passed all of this perfectly, I had to change allot of specifications for water injection rate, spark advance, and even things like plug gap specifications to cover all operating conditions and environments. Next step is to increase the boost level and do another durability test of around 50 hours (combined street and max output testing, generally equates to about 5000km running).

This is the performance so far on my standard 90-140kmh test.
http://img243.imageshack.us/img243/8...275seconds.jpg

For the next lot of work I need to take out the open circuit EGT probes which only lasted around 3000km before they went on holiday. Am getting some bespoke ones made (to my specifications) that are more turbo rotary compatible long term while still being fast in response as I require.

Forgot to add from the last posted compression (post #22) test near the top of the page, engine compression now after the near 76+ hours of running is:
Fr
121,123,121
Rr
117,116,114
Not too bad given the high duty running and constant boost setting of 18.5psi now

Here is some pics of me taking RICESP to a local test track a few days ago, did some more traction control development testing and WI hardware tests...

http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/8...nomytowing.jpg

http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/8...nomytowing.jpg

Peter from your data the turbine pressure (17.1psi) is very close to the boost pressure (17.7psi). Is this what you normally find, within a pound difference?

Also your AFRs in the mid -11s at 17 psi is leaner than I would have thought. My EGTs are so high (1000°C) that I have been adding extra fuel trying to cool the temps.

Barry

Hi Mate,

I have done allot of work on the mixture settings to make good power on that ~1.2kg/cm to 1.3kg/cm boost level, instead of typing it all out here you can have a read of all the tests on Aquamists site > http://www.aquamist.co.uk/vbulletin/...t=1590&page=10 (spans a few pages back from here).

For the Exhaust manifold pressure to inlet manifold pressure, I currently am at 18.5 to 19 psi inlet boost pressure and the exhaust manifold pressure at 7000rpm in 4th (~125mph) gear is exactly 17.5psi, and this is with ~4.2 psi exhaust system pressure.

*At full boost pressure* The AFR on average is 11.3:1 with the current WI setting, it only goes towards 11.4:1 at revs past 7400rpm to stop the power from falling off where I need to hold rpm to say 8300rpm to save making a gear change be it on a straight or hold out 5th gear for 200+mph top speed as my car is geared for too :). Lower boost pressures (0.5bar to near 1.0bar) the AFR is around ~12.0:1 setting (more so because any more excess fuel is not required, especially with water injection or even without) Anything with more excess fuel really takes away allot of power. My EGT was always around 980 deg C or so with the correct ign timing, this set fuel mixture, and WI rate. Anything outside of these settings results in lower power, too high an EGT, misfire, or and less measured performance (< too over cooled *fuel or combination of fuel and water*, or not enough ignition advance especially) in my standard 90-140kmh testing I do.

Looking towards doing the next level of tests (will pick around 22psi range or 1.5bar gauge boost pressure) and will be *I think* more than happy with that, should be a good compromise between pretty high power level and long term durability, my goal is Ferrari F40 type performance (while still having a catalyst/quiet exhaust and baby bottom smooth motor combination) as you can read in my threads, I am there so far as the USA spec F40 is but a small margin off the European version, another ~40bhp should cover it :)

My aim: is to do around 127 to 128mph in a standard 400m test on the road in a full road set up, and 0-100kmh range in sub 4 seconds. (60-130mph in about 8 second range) on my set up ~22psi should yield this from where it is now. Should have a honest 480bhp (same as Ferrari F40), not much in this day an age I know, but then again how many narrow power band 500rwhp cars are about that cant do any of these actual performance measures in road trim on an actual normal road?....... sure you can bolt on slicks, drag radials, semi slicks etc, flat shift it, smash out the windows to save weight, run jet plane loud exhaust, open waste gates, alcohols fuel systems or leaded race fuels, etc etc but its not a real street car then (please take no offense drag type runners or people with powerful cars).

For people who might be interested in more on factual testing of road cars, power (various measures, engine and rwhp of different systems), actual measured weight: I started this "tested" kerb weight thread and analysis of cars performance to the power they claim to have using well know accepted formula. Its a fair read if your struggling to stimulate your senses with internet posts that are not porn related lol http://www.ausrotary.com/viewtopic.p...eight&start=80

Peter, thanks for the links.

Very interesting. A massive amount of work went into your reports.

Barry

Thanks Barry,

I am looking forward to doing more when I get around to it :beatdeadhorse5:

She is a gorgeous car rice. I took some photos of it at superlap. Was looking for you to introduce myself but everytime I walked past you weren't near the car.

VERY NICE BUILD! Pics are impressive and your car is clean:icon_tup:

I think we have a second TitaniumTT on our hands .......:suspect:

Thanks everyone :001_005:

I enjoy using my digital SLR as much as doing all of my own work. Being able to make stuff I can thank my father for, he is the real craftsman in the family :icon_tup: *inherited a small portion of his massive skill*



http://www.sambarcustomknives.com/4.JPG

http://www.sambarcustomknives.com/index.htm

http://www.sambarcustomknives.com/IMG_0422L.JPG

The craftsmanship on your car is unbelievably exquisite. Awesome job.

Action shot

http://www.riceracing.com.au/Photos/ricesp1.jpg
http://www.riceracing.com.au/RICE%20CARD.JPG
http://www.riceracing.com.au/Photos/RICESP/RiceSP5.jpg

car aside....

damascus blade.. is it real? If so, send me a pm.

Yes mate, full damascus (blade, lock back, blosters, and even spring too). Dad makes some unbelievable stuff, that one there is full take down version he designed, full precision bush bearings in all pivots, all custom hand made.

His E-Mail is sambarknives@ozemail.com.au, I listed all of his current knives in stock http://www.sambarcustomknives.com/index.htm if you are interested you can send him an E-Mail of me peter@riceracing.com.au and either of us can help you out :seeya:

Been a while since I posted on my baby :)

Finally had some time to do some more detail work and fix up things that I wanted too since the first time putting all of this together a year ago. Made some modifications to the Turbocharger specification, water cooling lines, exhaust system, oil breather set up, EGT sensors, & detailed insulation for various oil/water/fuel and other parts.

Small specification increase in total power to ~500bhp (v's the ~430 to 440bhp I have run for over a year). Will take some pictures and maybe even post up a test report or two soon.