How safe is 10psi ?
 

Awesome threads on this forum...

Im running BNR 3s at 10psi with stock ecu, restrictor pills, intake, ic and all on 10k rebuilt stock motor with ss dp, stock main cat, and rb catback. So if BNR 3s flow more air, maybe somewhere between 2-3 extra psi ... how safe IS 10psi with little to no boost creep or spike?

of course I want a PFC and a coolingmist kit (or something similar) ... just wondering if I need this oh say, Tomorrow or maybe for x-mas

btw, awesome thread on the 13b-re sequential build with BNRs pushing 330... I can totally see that with all the porting and ceramic coatings... air flow must be really optimized. I suppose if he were pushing 360+ that would be harder to believe, but mostly I just wanna see PICS!

I think as long as you keep the cat (even a hi-flo one like a Bonez) you're OK.

You've got a boost gauge, right?

got boost, water temp and this neat little afr unit - http://www.3barracing.com/product_3.htm

I really like the afr unit, I have never seen yellow or red when boosting only when idling but that is normal. At night, it switches between blue and green allot and other people tell me it looks like a light show for an elaborate electronic nitrous control system, hahaha.

That's a pretty cool little gadget. It seems bright enough that you could probably mount it somewhere other than the dash. Lol, mount on the tranny tunnel aiming straight up, & when your whole interior turns yellow, ease up! :rofl:

But yeah, I think you'll be cool as long as you don't run a midpipe or something.

actually, its on top of the tranny tunnel in front of the shifter and its really bright .. I can see it during the day with the windows down! at night I don't need the dome light, the blue light is plenty and with the red dash lights its fun. Now I just need to replace the old alpine unit that stopped working and I want to get a couple speaker mount gauges and the light show will be superb!

thnx for advice!

info from their website:

First light: Red= .78 to .90v

Second light: Yellow= .90 to .94v

Third light: Green= .94 to .98v

Fourth light: Blue= .98v and up

The stock ecu runs really rich, so even with the upgraded turbos you should be fine. Narrow band sensors/gauges don't really have the resolution to be much help. And the voltage isn't linear outside of stoich. Basically they just aren't accurate. But at least you aren't seeing yellow or red.

Since you aren't running much boost you can run fairly lean without trouble. Probably around 12:1. I doubt the stock ecu would be running any leaner then that even with the extra airflow. But you're still just guessing and hoping it isn't. You could always take it to a dyno and get a single run with the wideband hooked up just to know where you're at.

Or you can get a wideband controller and gauge and check it yourself. Eventually you will need to get a pfc and a wideband would very helpful. If you plan on making any real power with the BNR's you'll need this stuff anyways.

You are asking for trouble, the BNR's are capable of 18+ psi. You are fine at 10 psi, but you never know when something will go wrong and you boost past 10 psi.

I personally get tired of everyone say " you will be ok... if" Shit happens and the rotary gets a bad name because of it. These motors are extremely sensitive to two things, heat and running lean, other than that they are pretty much bullet proof. You spent the money for the turbos, now spend a bit more for a PFC and upgraded fuel system. If not, give me a call when the motor blows and I will be happy to rebuild it for you :).


Take care,
Dan

Those are stockers ;) and I'm going back to KDR this Friday to up the boost to 15psi and look for 400 wheel. And my build thread is http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ead.php?t=6995
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_...091c4a3f37.jpg

Agreed, and these things should be run rich to the point where one or two points of AFR sends the thing in circles. Not useful at all really for a turbo rotary

I would've done that first but if everything is working perfect you MAY have some time, but I wouldn't push it by any means.

Case and point -
the engine is slowed down on the dyno and I went there with the PID set up and the normal position table adjusted. She held 9 psi SOLID all day long. That night, boost cut @ 175 kpa. So even when you think you're OK, you're not necissarily.

More case and point -

Engine #3. Fuel PSI gauge puked on the drive to the dyno. Pressure was fine when I left so I mad the ASSumption that it would be fine. First pull, boosted 15 psi, ran 13.5 AFR's and we let out @ 4800 rpm. She made 346 RWHP and warped 2 apex seals. My fault, not the engines. The fuel filter was clogged up which is why the fuel psi sender puked.

The moral is, to sum up what I believe everyone is saying........ monitor the engines every pulse, hicccup, sneeze, cough, and even fart. Better to err on the side of saftery with a few hundred worth of upgrades than a popped engine and THEN all of the stuff you should've had from the get go.

I understand all these points, thats why I wanted to post here. My rebuild did consist of a new radiator (all new hoses everywhere), new clutch cylinders, wrapping the dp, a new fpd, new secondary injectors, cleaned primaries, new fuel filter, new oil pump, new omp lines and nozzle, re-wired supra tt fuel pump... no fuel pressure gauge tho...

my point was to have the important stuff done so I could upgrade as I go ... the pfc and better boost controller is next but I don't want to boost more than 10psi until I get some type of aux inj system.

still, with winter coming, colder air outside, it will be much easier to hit 10psi and creep past. I definitely notice the change in seasons, and air temp has a big effect on spool up time and ability to hold @ 10psi.. or creep, even with ported wg and stock main cat.

maybe santa can come early this year....

You're doing it backwards. Would you turn the stockers up to 15 psi before adding more fuel, ignition control and the like? No. You want all the supporting mods in place before you add the power to keep things from going wrong.
For the boost you're talking about you don't need an aux injection system

this is why I dont want to boost more than 10psi, because I know I dont have all the supporting mods yet... so im not sure I understand what Im doing backwards? because I got bnrs and im running stock boost?

I made 150% of factory rwhp with 90% of the boost and I'm using more fuel than what would considered safe with the factory injectors. But I'm using less boost so I should need less fuel.... So what's going on here?
Would you run a GT60 at 10psi on your current setup? Its stock boost so you should be safe right? 10lbs on one turbo is not 10lbs on another.

ok well a gt60 single turbo setup isn't quite what I got (maybe apples to pears instead of apples to apples), but yeah, 10psi on bnrs is like 12 on stock twins which is still bad.

I have a feeling you're referring to my post. Are you saying that he'll experience boost creep or spike with a stock catalytic converter? Maybe a boost controller is in order.

At 10psi on BNRs you are basically as safe as you are with the stock twins, the turbos flowing more isn't going to be the problem, frankly because at 10psi there isn't much difference. It's the other mods or something going wrong that will be dangerous.

I will say you need to look at getting a PFC as soon as possible and running it at 10psi until you get some more supporting mods.