Thanks :)

Fuel system is as follows

Sard 280lt pump
Sard Type RJ regulator (55psi static pressure setting)
4 x 1000cc Bosch injectors
ATL foam filled tank
Kenne Bell Boost-a-pump, full pump rewire

Fuel used
BP Ultimate or Shell V-Power < but not mandated, I have run it on lowest specification unleaded at high power setting.

I tried many types of fuel injectors, Bosch 839's, Rochester's, Denso, but finally settled on the "pencil type" Bosch units of high impedance, they seem to work well.

The seats are Don! I just came back from a 200+km drive for about 3 hours inc lunch stop, and the seats are unreal, very supportive :)

Testing on going !
 

:icon_tup:

Daily Driver

:driving:

Well the best just keeps getting better, while the pretenders on the internet forums, and bloggers and other general life failures are extending and pretending the bank managers PONZI finance to keep their crap boxes on the track/road/car trailer/, ............ RICESP just keeps on going and getting faster and faster :driving:

:lurk5:

:001_005:

Great articles coming up soon on the proven world wide recognized and badly copied Rice Racing Water Injection system and a few other pioneering technologies and world leading systems

:icon_tup:

:drool5:

:sifone:

:auto:

Changed this fuel system set up slightly, should update it !

Different fuel injectors, different fuel pressure, Normal Petrol (as always!), New RR Water Injection system!...... another 200bhp!!!!!

Hey Pete watchin this and other of your articles closely... Can't wait for the update with pics :)

Cmon rice don't tease me, post up some real data on what your cars doing now

Soon brother soon :party:

I have given a free service to many people around the world who all of a sudden became "experts" :smilielol5: LOL. No more, only the old information will be released once the new levels are proven. I don't care if people copy it then cause its old news to me :001_302:

The new stages I am finalizing now are just totally unheard of level of performance and durability for a true road going 13B ROTARY, just like the last proven development Ferrari F40 beating stages openly shared it makes peoples "race cars" look like total plastic wrapped nuggets! :smilielol5: hahahaha.......

Stay tuned for the old outdated news, I'll continue to lead while others follow for the next 20 years!!!! ;)

LOL Dyson here run buses LOL, useless cunts. :rofl:

Some more pics of my ride ;)

RICEFJ has joined the stable officially :)

http://img818.imageshack.us/img818/1...cespricefj.jpg

http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/5...cespricefj.jpg

http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/953...cespricefj.jpg

http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/297...cespricefj.jpg

Get On It...... Fact V's Fiction LOL
 

Well well, new settings are showing potential :) :auto:

Low Boost setting 20psi or ~1.4bar (3rd gear RR std runs)
90kmh -140kmh = 2.32 seconds ! and 2.33 seconds ! (2 x separate tests)

EGT peak = 880 deg c to 870 deg C

Other info to down load off the ECU but will post it up later........

Car is stupid fast & effortless with new WI strategy, and will only go faster on higher boost settings.
More info (snap shot) added:
RPM 7700rpm
EGT 878 deg C
AIT 36 deg C to 40 deg C
Ambient temp 18~20 deg C
Boost 142kpa 1.45kg or 20.6psi
TIP 18.6psi
TOP 3.3psi
FP 65.8psi
Turbine rpm 107,166rpm
AFR undisclosed
WI undisclosed
Ign timing and split undisclosed
Inj duty 54%

On board power meter showed 379rwkw, car is very quick for a true road car, too fast really to be used properly without tripling any posted speed limits LOL. Anyway its got a great base to finish off the very high power/high boost work I was doing through this and last year, with much more favorable long term operating parameters on the engine and turbocharger. Next stages are back up to 1.80kg boost, 2.00kg, and 2.20kg and 2.45kg, keeping in mind the above is only on ~1.45kg to 1.5kg *waste gate spring minimum setting* :)

Non of this is remotely possible without the power of water injection :) all mind you on a near 3 year old over 20,000km daily driven engine that has NEVER been touched! unlike some who have gone through 100k worth of engines and tunes lol. :9898:

:party:

Well got RICESP running 1.85kg/cm boost on the new upgraded set up, this is about 26.3psi in retarded speak.

The power is just fucking unbelievable !!!!

I have very good street tires Kumho KU36's and these in 3rd gear just send the vehicle sideways :001_302: the power when it hits is unreal! the car squats down, picks up the left hand front and its like a bucking bronco, she really screams! In 4th gear it accelerates best, the mid range power is as good as what I had as peak rpm power before, passing cars on highway is retarded, leave it in 4th and you go past at warp speed only using 4000~5500rpm...... :D

To put it in perspective, allot of the Domar Jap spec FD3S specialist videos you see people gagging over the cars never run more than 1.1kg/cm boost, and using homo injectors and small turbo's allot of the cars wont even char tires in 2nd let alone 3rd gear with a top end diff ratio that will do 210mph!!!!

I'd love to put this car on a boat and show the drift king how a real FD3S goes, he would shit his panties :lol:

Need vids! :)

INDEED!

Peter - Are you still running 100% water? My car is finally getting tuned sometime this month, and Dave at KDR recommended a 50/50 mix (I have your kit) :icon_tup:

Hey there,

No I use and recommend only WM50 (by weight!), I have been using this for a LONG time now and documented all of the testing here > http://www.aquamist.co.uk/vbulletin/...?t=1590&page=8
^(there is a ton of info, and the performance is ALWAYS increasing *to give you an idea post #74 or so lists power as 278rwkw and now I have much more*, but you will get the idea, its worth the read)
I tried all kinds of permutations even different fluids, trying to replicate what I have in old testing papers on the subject, in the end I got a pretty good correlation and I personally found that 50/50 water to methanol *by weight* cools the best, and makes the most power by a long long way.

I have upgraded my WI systems just recently to fully exploit this system change, you can still run it on pure water if you wish, you just wont make the same power or have the same detonation resistance as the latest specification systems (all that is different is the nozzle calibration, all the system parts are the same).

Peter

Love to hear that, seems like Dave is on the right track! The nozzle calibration that you speak of, is that by adjusting the plastic turn knob on the side of the nozzle?

Yes, best to E-Mail me as I don't really freely share specs (only with customers like you) ;) peter@riceracing.com.au

The RRWEP110 set up you have can get you pretty high up, for more you would have to send the atomizer back to me and I can modify it to the new specifications :) *its only if you want to run ~36psi boost* < and the power that goes with it :)

:auto:

O.K. Remember pump petrol here !

90kmh-140kmh = 2.26 seconds!
100kmh-150kmh = 2.39 seoconds!
100kmh-200kmh = 6.25 seconds!

Still on old tires, and showing about 24psi boost on the VBOX, and ~330rwkw VBOX POWER!!!

Tested at 1320kg run weight and 25 deg C ambient day, still doing boost learning procedure so there is a bit more in at this level and fuel mixture set rich to be on safe side.

:conehead:

Fact V's Fiction :9898:

Will put up some graphs when I get them off the lap dancer top :coolgleamA:

Here is the graph of the 2.26 second 90-140 test :) this car has a *massive* power band, not normally seen on genuine 13B road cars of this level of performance and speed!@ the word "response" does not do it justice! It builds one bar of boost at around 3400rpm in a transient test, and near its maximum boost setting well before 4600rpm and it does it even in the low gears which only take a second or two for 8000rpm, its fantastic..... best road car set up ever !@
http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/1341/226secvbox.jpg

Great read and what a last update! Do you have any videos of the current setup? Cant wait to see what 30+psi on this setup will do. You are currently running 50/50 water/meth, no longer just water correct?
David

Hey David,

On holidays now, so start of next year will get back into testing and updates :coolgleamA:

I'll fit up my new tires and the camera and take some video of how she goes, currently its on 26.3psi or 1.8bar gauge boost pressure.

I have run WM50 for the last 2 years, logical progression from water really. I did allot of my own tests on a host of fluid mixtures, verifying old test reports and found in my own case that WM50 (50:50 by mass, not volume) works the best for me. I don't disclose the WI rate exactly (something I keep for my customers) but its "high", and it needs to be to run this level of boost pressure and certified performance on the VBOX :)

Last year I did tests on 30+psi but was not overly happy with some parameters for long term use, last month I finally got around to re-engineering some system set up parts and now its much better as a long term proposition. All on the same 13B-REW I have been running for 3 years and its not ever been touched! (testament to reliability of water injection). This set up will easily do 2.5bar gauge boost pressure or ~36psi on normal BP Ultimate Petrol. What cant be conveyed over the internet is the speed of the way it is now on ~26psi! :auto: it flat out hauls! :auto:

"Got Grip C*nts" :auto: Ho Ho Ho Merry Christmas! :rofl:

275/40/R17 Toyo R888 GG compound

Fits like a finger in a bum.... :)

http://img856.imageshack.us/img856/3...tgripcunts.jpg

http://img542.imageshack.us/img542/3...tgripcunts.jpg

http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/8...tgripcunts.jpg

http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/3...tgripcunts.jpg

Nice! Now its time to do the front to match :biggthumpup:

I see you have what looks like multi piece brake rotors... Are those Spirit R sized brakes or the original smaller size? Were there any changes to the braking system with the original SP?

SP 1995 the Don!
 

These brake rotors are original SP developed items (or M1020 prototypes cars from 1994, which were then farmed off to the production SP Australia cars). * years later they were brought back out for the Type R, Bathurst and also the Spirit R and Type RZ RX7's.

The SP has a different front brake caliper to standard and reworked ABS to match the braking system size.

The brake rotors are simply the stock sized units but vastly better than the std Mazda offering, I run Project Mu rotors front and rear with Project Mu pads. The car makes so much horse power and velocity that I broke a rear disk rotor last time I had it out on a race track! they just cannot handle repeated high velocity stops at full braking power. Sure if it was like the stock SP with only ~350bhp in race trim it could do it for 12 hours straight like they did in competition, but with now 600+bhp not a chance :)

Here is a great series of video's on Japs and Rotaries and other inferior cars, pay particular attention to the PANSPEED as dynoed on dynapak dyno..... LOL I was making 478rwhp on 1.2kg/cm on a street port 10+ years ago with bush bearing T04S @ 1.2kg/cm on a 2nd gen T2 engine block http://www.riceracing.com.au/water-injection.htm , V's them with T04Z, bridge port and FD 13B-REW motor ...... :Wconfused: pretty shit power band to match on the bridge port too!!! and needing race fuel to do the peak 503 rear hub HP

You will also notice the Cyber EVO doing a massive 343rwkw or 460PS on our dyno dynamics system @ haltech .......... LOL if you ever were in doubt as to how low Australia dynos read compared to exaggerator 3000 units you run in America LOL :Chevy_anim: Remember ND4SPD RX2 = 448rwkw or 602 rwhp!@!!@ water injected!!!

Interesting viewing indeed!

My RICESP on 1.85kg/cm with stock std 13B-REW would easily out accelerate these "worlds best time attack powered machines" despite it weighting allot more LOL all on normal pump petrol and RR WATER INJECTION High boost runs coming to a forum near you in 2012 FACT v' FICTION LOL

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5DSv1EBLxxk

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BjDxBirtGJM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNVWSf3LOgI

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bkhM6EHWJGg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xTAt8YmudVA

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIKXDfx6MAU

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D3k9fSfzlXo

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dlJfcVg_uJk

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XkSTNCt7-Eg

Wtac machines aren't all just about power though, I have alot of respect for that cyber evo the things incredible.

The only thing incredible is how a piece of shit like that in engineering terms is so well thought off LOL.

It is a full on nugget in many respects, engine wise in the majority it's a joke, honestly :ack2: The turbo is a full on piece of shit in the extreme! It shows you just how fucked they are to protest a real engine like in the Sierra Sierra EVO because it was 30+kph faster down the main straight at Eastern Creek :bowdown: < Now power is everything :cheers2:

WTAC really is just a hack class for drop outs and plastic trophy racers, nobodies in the scheme of things honestly. :uhh: It's far too hyped up in the extreme really..... There are hundreds of other cars in all sorts of classes that would totally wipe the floor with these pieces of shit. European Rally Cross cars 10 years ago were racing reliably with 850bhp to 950bhp from 2lt turbo 4 cylinders!!! IMHO Porsche ran the 917/30 in endurance races with 1100bhp!!! in the 1970's!!!! makes WTAC look like a chump "sport" which it is honestly :tongue1:
Fuck Toyota ran a 3SGTE motor at 2.1lt with single turbo in American Endurance race trim @ 950bhp! in 1992 with an Atari Game Console for an ECU! passing 4 rotor R26B powered cars like they were standing still!!!! *its all been done before to a much much higher level* BMW ran stock block 4cyl 2.1lt turbo in the same IMSA series at 900bhp! on mechanical injection! in the mid 1980's!!!! same engine they used in F1 that proven to make over 1300bhp in high boost form @ 1.5lt capacity and only 10500rpm!

I do like that back yard nothing high school drop out workshop owners and groupies can run cars though. Eventually the novelty of Time Attack will filter down and you may see some serious engineering and talent come into it. I for one wont be impressed till you see 1000+bhp 2lt turbo cars running around, then they will be where real professional were at 30 years ago IMHO :ack2:

These cars should really be in the ~1300bhp and all 4WD range to be up to modern standards and technology, there is no reasons why not, except there is no real engineering "talent" there to run such cars as they are ALL in real forms of motorsports across the globe..

Anyway of enough talk of other cunts, here is some more angles of RICESP, the new rear tires look SICK! I love the way it sits. And the mega motor set up, cant stop looking at this, hard to believe something so stock looking (for a genuine SP!) makes so so much power!!! :coolgleamA: From concept to proven performer :coolgleamA:

:conehead:


http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/172...815donmega.jpg

http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/1...740donmega.jpg

http://img831.imageshack.us/img831/6...719donmega.jpg

http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/624...748donmega.jpg

http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/958...709donmega.jpg

Damn that youtube vid you posted in the Fd section was amazing. That is one FAST fd3s!!!!! Now post yours dammit!

Get on It :-0c==3
 

Yes it is! it btw is the only other "credible" documented RX7 to post up anything like proof of its "claimed power"... a total credit to the owner builder :coolgleamA:

In the new year I'll do up a few video's, might even get a new HD camera? and work on a few different angles to capture the immense speed of my own RICESP :auto: since I know how much all you boys love seeing real rotary street cars that are fast and reliable :coolgleamA: part of the motivation is to inspire others and also show them while at the same time debunking allot of the bullshit and mis information sprouted out by nobodies/high school drop out shop owners/self proclaimed experts on rotaries telling you that you need extra dowels, porting, C16, E85, GTXYZ123 turbo's, billet dildo's (insert any other bullshit here) to have a fast and durable car :willy_nilly: The irony of all those < is that non of these cunts have ever produced a real road car that is durable or as fast!!!! *token BS rwhp dyno sheets aside LOL*

:coolgleamA:

Get on It :-0c==3
 

So here is my once annual compression check up of RICESP (3rd year now! ~20,000km covered!)... This is after using the car as my daily driver for over 6 months! and also all of the higher boost settings and reconfiguration I have done over the Christmas break :bowdown:

Rear Rotor
http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/852...otor112012.jpg

Front Rotor
http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/3309/fontrotor112012.jpg

Beautiful car - glad I found this thread

Rice,

How do you like the Ohlins Flag coilovers? I found a used set for sale that I am trying to get ahold of. I know they will be great for the track, but I'm curious how they are suited for street use.

My car is a street car 100%

These shocks are better than in my daily FJ Crusier ;) they are perfect, spring rate at 14kg/cm is very nice for the road too (and you need it at this power level fwiw).

In summary EXCELLENT.

Isn't that 14 kg/mm (780 lb/in)?

Sorry I was thinking boost pressure units hahaha.

Yes 14kg/mm springs.

These are great on the street as the suspension never bottoms even on higher speed undualtions at high power. I ran 8kg springs before in some Tein suspension and it was crap cause as soon as you went over big undualtions at speed the suspension would bottom out.

The ride "quality" is all in the shock absorber setting, the Ohlins I have are perfect for the street when you set the bump and bound correctly.

Here is some pics of the IC spray valve, takes fluid from the WI tank, and some pics of the beast :)

Love it more and more each day, performance is sick as! and it drives just beautifully, power is getting a bit silly on the street though :driving:

http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/9...27donlarge.jpg

http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/5...33donlarge.jpg

http://img713.imageshack.us/img713/4...78donlarge.jpg

http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/1...79donlarge.jpg

http://img851.imageshack.us/img851/7...02donlarge.jpg

http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/7...66donlarge.jpg

Took the bad boy out today :)

Got it on around 28.5~28.0psi across the useful rev range, about ~1.9bar region.
As the boost is going up the peak power range creeps up, peak is not happening at around 7700rpm to 7800rpm, in 3rd gear I get well over 15psi @ 3800rpm.
The car is very quick and with the new rear tires has a high level of traction to use all of the power this boost level produces (on a decent, dry, straight road surface!@).
Was driving the other day and pulled the 2nd,3rd,4th gear to 8500rpm and a mate herd it over the mountains near where he was, and thought it was a motor bike ! :) crazy bit of gear it is. The acceleration and velocity you can reach on just the shortest stretches of tarmac are extraordinary indeed.

I'll leave it at this setting and enjoy it for a while before again doing the over 2 bar gauge boost long term settings, I'll leave that for our mild autumn/winter/spring period ;)

620BHP?
0-160kph over 200m? ET 7.? seconds
0-215kph over 400m? ET 11.? seconds

^ In the winter I will book the air port again and run another test doing those figures.

The extra power has um made my diff create a few extra whines in it :ugh2: Probably the pinion to crown wheel contact has changed (noticeable at 60mph) so I want to change the rear end ratio anyway as the car has soooo much power that it can easily push a much taller gear set. When I go to the effort of doing that I most probably will update the whole drive line at the same time.......... nice dream, only if I want to waste the money on it though *cough tight arse cough* :uhh:

Real tests
 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sXYAJWAV7YY

This is great reference for you.

86mph the 638bhp ZR-1 pulls 0.44G Mine 0.570G

110mph 0.31G Mine 0.411G

ZR-1 = 3350lb as tested
RICESP = 2910lb as tested

Power peak for both cars in two different gear (you can guess the power of my car) it's somewhere around/near/over? 600bhp as remember at higher speeds aero dynamic loads play more effect than weight

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A-SW0H8smRc

100kmh to 200kmh

ZR-1 = about 7.2 seconds
RICESP = 6.2 seconds

For sure it has to be somewhere above 550BHP genuine.

Do you need to remove the catalyst to achieve the 6.2 second 100-200? I guess I find it a little hard to believe even a 5" body 100 cell could flow 70+lb/min without a fairly drastic pressure drop across it.

I have seen on 2 different piston T4 turbo cars 4" body 200 cell catalysts become big chokes even at 440BHP genuine.