I know every SP in the country (and most fakes as well!) that car was in a heavy front end accident from my recollection, it was advertised around 7~8 or so years ago and no one bought it then (was advertised that it had an engine rebuild back then). The fit to the front section and the bonnet is not the best (read above comment for why).

Either way if the chassis number shows up on the list of numbers on my web site its a genuine, if it is one of the TACK ON 10 "lets make some ca$h" post race versions you can half the price as its not one of the original 25 homologation cars, but some still class it as a genuine SP. these "tack on 10 for ca$h" cars are pretty random and were made from left over bits n pieces no two are the same.

http://www.ausrotary.com/viewtopic.p...03538&start=20

^ that car is not on my list and print out of Mazda assigned chassis numbers for the genuine 25 SP's ever made, also in the engine bay it does not have the original IC hoses (they were blue and white, like on mine) so its had a shit load of work done to it either in repairs or otherwise, This is a page for original SP cars > http://www.riceracing.com.au/RiceSPGallery.htm (look down bottom of page)

Either way a SP is the Don Mega of RX7's the best.

p.s. last Genuine SP I did a report and inspection on for a customer sold for over $90,000Au a few months ago for your information

Got Wing !

http://img845.imageshack.us/img845/2...g2622spdon.jpg

Current engine bay set up with Capacitive Discharge ignition system, been running 1.8bar boost last few weeks.

http://img816.imageshack.us/img816/2...g2594spdon.jpg

I love your FD man. Loads of good info in this thread. Just curious.. do you use this car primarily for track or do you dd drive it as well?

off topic.. what kind of camera do you use? :)

Daily is a new FJ Cruiser :) :party: This ^ car is just for fun on the weekends, its too nice to leave in car parks or even to abuse on track to be honest, though I do a fair bit of private testing with it to prove my products. It's a very rare car and a bit to nice for that even so I will be making another car just dedicated for more use like this sooner rather than later....... it only hit me how rare they are when a customer basically handed me 100k in CA$H to sell it on the spot last month, it was tempting, but no way would I sell it for any amount of money really.

On the Camera I use a Cannon D40, nothing too crazy but I did spend allot of time learning to use it properly. Photography is a real interesting subject, I'd like to get more into it.

Well its definitely an extremely nice ride. I aim to get an FD someday. The cleanliness of yours is inspirational. Also congrats on the FJ cruiser!

Just thought id as about the camera because of how clear your pictures are. I like photography as well just havent gotten very far into learning anything about it.

Get On It POOFTERS :-oc==3
 

She has passed the 1.8kg/cm durability tests with flying colors :) & the performance is amazing. We have the new settings at 2.10kg/cm (over 2 bar gauge, 300kpa ABS, 30+psi in the old money)..... there is still plenty of margin left in the set up to run 2.5kg/cm in street trim but as before will run at the intermediate step to prove it rather than do a one off power pull BS type sheet posting as is the norm among most kiddies shops or internet experts ;)

The acceleration is gag factor to the max! it's not scary but I tell you it does make your arsehole pulsate in mild fear if you have not sampled this kind of thing recently.......... :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) !!!!!!!!!!!

Lol just push it higher till she finally blows!!! You going to superlap this year? Will have to come have a better look at the SP

The package I have made in RICESP is bullet proof, lots of power & durability to match. The boost pressure & following power increase is not a problem when you are water injected :) the more long term testing I do the more I am a fan of the amazing virtues of water injection over any other inferior way of making mega power (be that un needed porting, or stupid fuel conversions!, or other misguided newbie Gen Y misadventures)

The power I have proven in this set up is just amazing for the package, the real revelation is that its on another level now V's what I have been willing to share with people (at its lower power/boost settings) < even at those posted/shared lower levels it totally dominates so called Supercars!....... now its just fucking insane! and I love it :)

Still running full catalyst and legal road set up, daily driven! ........ it puts to shame pure "race cars" some of which mind you are much lighter, and claim to be much more powerful too LOL!!!!

Come on rice 50psi pump fuel. You know you want to!

^ This cars limit is ~36psi, I will eventually run it rest assured of that ;) but each point is proven not talked about or hyped up but runs through the testing program and stands the test of time, no excuses no hype, no 16 pages of postings like on some forums while never achieving anything at all :) *at 30psi now, which is a metric fuck load more power than anyone here can make on a legitimate 13B road car*

Best thing is its not just some bullshit dyno post but real numbers in a real street car that runs a stock motor (not one rebuilt ever other week! like others!) between dyno sessions or the odd track day :o21:

You are seeing real results and comparisons to genuine cars, and that is worth its weight in gold. I have allot of customers who have replicated the same results since following my progress on the Water Injection forum and others I post in around the world and they all just can't believe how easy it is once you know the key to the door for MAXIMUM POWER and MAXIMUM DURABILITY, all without wasting money on useless mods or ill thought up "upgrades" which turn your otherwise nice street car into a mobile excuse shit box on wheels that keeps you poor and your workshop in business :p

I do have another project on the production line that will re write the performance envelope, but will post some detail on that when the time is right :piggy:

The performance is but one aspect of it that puts a smile on my face, but its the all round nature of it that is just flat out amazing.

Reaching in and starting it from 0 deg C ambient and it dong fast idle warm up without issue, perfect fueling, hot or cold. Air you can breath out the tail pipe! (no rotary fuel smell), how fucking quiet it is! :bowdown: on a long trip I do better than 7lt per 100km! long term fuel economy on a combined cycle is around 10lt per 100km..... which is just amazing. even when using full power the efficiency of the engine set up is just gag factor!@ I mean you can just put in 20lt of fuel and do over 150km of driving ! and that is doing performance work and cruising. I totally love it :hurray: best all round set up I have ever made, anyone who goes in it wants to buy it OR replicate the set up 100% :bowdown:

I like the way you approach your every performance goal a step at a time and test everything in the real world.
No super tech talk BS. I think I will be talking to you soon about some CDI ignition setup but I need to gather some funds before as I understand it's not cheap. Then again having the best was never cheap.
Hope you get as much time enjoying it as you do working on it :)

I learned long ago that there is more to making a car than just a no verified dyno run or a BS 1/4 mile pass...... these days you get people who build (or pay to get built a track car and try to get cred with a shit box that lasts 20 minutes before shitting its mega dollar alcohol engine to oblivion :18:) ALL OF THAT CRAP IS WORTHLESS!!!!

My idea of a car is one that you can get it and go anywhere in, be efficient, do long distances and drive it hundreds of miles between fills if needed and race anyone anytime anyplace, without needing to carry mad max poofter fuel drums or worry about what ratio of alcohol you have or what type of premix to use or any of the other RAFT of crap excuses these cunts come up with ....... and what is the point of it all if its a gay loud obnoxious turd of a motors that wont work with anything less than a 4" drain pipe sounding like a chainsaw cutting up a homosexual at a male bukkake festival.

Engineer a car right and you will be amazed at how fast, efficient and durable it can be, all on normal petrol and water :biggthumpup::biggthumpup::biggthumpup::biggthumpu p::biggthumpup:
Keeping rotaries going and showing PIST ON loosers what a real car is like, representing out on the highways and roads, taking on all challengers who dare question Felix Wankels master piece of mechanical engineering. :cheers2:

EDIT: I wanted to share with you I filled the RICESP up with 110lt of fuel and did a huge drive up the mountains (its about 3 hours drive away from base) up there at altitude there is an amazing bit of test road and fuck me! getting there at the crack of dawn and opening up the big power was just amazing! The ability to go on such long distance non stop drives is what makes this car so special, and more fun than just the pure power production ability it has. Had a lot of fun and turn around and go back..... all round 7 hours driving all on one tank of fuel :) fast, reliable, efficient and totally usable, its how every turbo rotary should be!!!

Awesome stuff!

It's the best advertising tool I have (BDC and HC take note!), in some ways its bad cause I get sick of people offering to buy my car after going for a ride in it! though it is flattering to hear them go on and on about how unbelievable a package it is ..............



And in all fairness to them, it is :D

You're running NRS ceramics in this car still? With or without the experimental corners?

^ No and No. ^

The engine is 100% Mazda std 13B-REW. < Stripped, checked, re assembled and put in the car just as it comes out of the box 100% stock standard with zero modifications or parts changed from factory.

^ That is the BEST part about it, ANYONE can go and achieve exactly the same result as no special parts are required nor needed!, you have a fresh healthy non molested factory engine and you will get the same result. I did this MANY years ago with a customer car but based on a T2 Series 5 engine block, back then I put it down to a one off, this times I repeated it and have achieved much more power ......... stock std engines are all you ever need, more power than you can ever handle and durability is unmatched. But the absolute best part is the power band, it shits on anything else.

So all of your performance gains are from solid tuning? Thats just fantastic. what whp are you putting down?

Real Power, see the VBOX tests at lower output.
 

The honest way I measure the power its around 330~350rwkw. If you measured it on a dyno dynamics (which read much much lower than a dyno jet) then it would be around 400+rwkw, in scum english metric units this is 530+rwhp.....

For all that typing though I dont give a fuck about dyno sheets or their guestimates as they really dont add up to reality in most cases!

All I know is that a stock 276bhp RX7 takes so long and a certain distance to do an acceleration pull (as I posted) and mine if over twice as powerful since takes under half the time and under half the distance, so by my measure its twice as powerful (as I listed in the measured RWKW) in my tests (between a spirit R type A and RICESP) and that is on much lower boost and power to what I run it at now :)

I estimate the engine power at around a GENUINE 550bhp+ but with more in reserve, which is the amazing part. And yes its down to nothing more than water injection and very fine set up of the whole system, rather than any exotic mega dollar engiens or other snake oil :)

haha thank you. often times i wish the U.S. would just switch to metric...after all i believe we are the only country using standard measurements haha.

either way im seriously impressed by this. The entire time ive been into rotaries (only since about 05-06 to present) ive been under the impression that the only way to gain power really is to start porting. and i suppose thats under the assumtion of more air in more air out+more fuel= more power. but you have clearly blown that out of the water.

Question... Would there be any benefit to doing water inj on a naturally aspirated platform?

Turbochargers are a great device, for only marginal *very marginal* increases in pressure you get great gains in power (through vastly increased air flow), much more so than what you can achieve with any type of trivial porting, so its pretty pointless making the engine worse in response and power band and run only XYZ "fixed" boost pressure..... that is what took me a long time to acknowledge as well, so you are not alone there. Lots of people are under the misconception that you need to port to make prodigious power and nohting could be further from the truth. It's not as if I am using outrageous boost levels either, you can see the listed performance I am willing to share is under moderate boost pressures and it still compares well to fully race ported examples, running gutted non leagl exhausts etc.

WI can work on anything that is knock limited, so for NA it ould have to be running very high compression that mandated a non ideal spark timing (retarded) over ideal, you could run water injection to pick up the lost efficiency is one example.

So really here you would have to be running a pretty extreme NA set up for this to be pracatical at all? In which case would it even be worth it ?? lol. My future plan is to run a NA 20B (Rx8 rotors/ported/motec/full exhaust).

My main reasons behind the build are at this point because i wanted to be able to have some more "fun" whp numbers but keep the reliability of the NA platform so i didnt have to worry about blowing the damn thing up. And also because the 20B is just a cool build you dont see everyday. Ive seen my friends dump what we thought were good turbo builds, but apparently from all ive seen, from this build and the info you've provided in other threads, my fear of the turbo game is really an unnecessary one :dunno:.

If it was easy dumb cunts like BDC could do it. Fact is it is not, but if you are willing to learn from real engineers like Sir Harry Ricardo & Frank Walker (to name but two Water Injection pioneers) then you too can make a stock standard rotary reliable.

I have invested allot of my time and money over 2 decades to learn all of this myself, with no ones help, but my own tenacity and education to fall back on to make my own rotary turbo that is affordable, powerful, and reliable. Anyone can go and replicate the result, I'll even tell them openly how to do it as well :) you cant ask for more than that :)

I am a turbo fanatic and devote, they are NOT simple when run in street trim on normal petrol, but if you know the key to the performance formula it is nothing short of a revelation as to just how "easy" or "basic" the whole set up can be, or what takes it to work in reality V's and internet posting or empty promise that others promise. My idea is simple, build it prove it, tell people how you do it........ I've done all of that with RICESP, its a Mazda rotary 13B Turbo stock engine and its faster than lots of iconic supercars, twice as much power as a standard car, not proved by one off measures or fake doctored "performance measures" but real comparisons of like specification vehicles on common road platforms.

You should not be scared at all, but it will take for some a quantum leap back into the 1930's to see what the real pioneers discovered, he who does not learn from history is bound to repeat the same mistakes over and over ;)

Well then :) Maybe ill reconsider my uber expensive 20B plan for a stock s5 13BT or an 13B-RE and water inject ;)

I have no shortage of ca$h or ability to make whatever I want and I can only tell you the rocket ship performance of my 13B just puts the 3 rotor into insignificance, especially in a normal RX7 chassis. It's hard to convey to people, the best thing I do is just take people for a drive! and when you see them (some seasoned car people) who want to rip off the door trim handles or are telling you to slow down that they have had enough............ it just speaks volumes more than any Race Logic VBOX3i figures I can post up.

I dreamed of performance on tap like what I have now, it really does just impress you each time you drive it, and unlike people with trailer queens jungle juice mad max fuel drum carrying slaves its totally on tap, any time, any place. And we are talking road car, with a catalyst, quiet, efficient, can drive long distances and not go broke filling it up, and its a rotary :) More people need to get on it, I don't care if they use my system or my friends on Aquamist where I share my ideas and enthusiasm, its all about the power of water injection on knock limited engine platforms, and ALL regardless of type of fuel are knock limited, does not matter if its a Reno racer at 75psi running a Supercharged merlin on 150 octane or a Rice Racing running on 87 octane :) we all exploit the power of H2O!

Correct me if I'm wrong Pete but are you running straight water or a 50/50mix with meth?

Henri

I run BOTH.

During the last 3 years I have come up with a system and tune up that is interchangeable between WM50 and Water, this covers all operators I have across the world who run in all weather conditions, in varying venues (certain rules) and have all types of set ups (some that tolerate water) and others that do not. Thus I was testing on "typical" inductive ignition and my own SUPER IGNITION systems.

If you look at my web page (under water injection) you will see I have made and engineered cars that make prodigious horsepower along with unrivaled reliability on both specifications.

Are you Ohlins coilovers decent for street use?

I'm surprised to hear that you've gone away from NRS. My current engine is a series 5 stock standard, only minor casting flash removed from the intake ports. Rebuilt by myself all OEM mazda components. Great powerband, more then 2 years of abuse and road trips at 350+rwhp, 121+mph trap speeds in the 1/4, nearly 50,000kms of use......but I'm swapping in an REW that I will be using NRS seals with.

Have you changed due to some issue with the seals or to prove the durability of the OE components? From my findings the OEM items need not to be proven, but I'm moving to NRS to facilitate a longer overall lifespan of the engine at elevated power.....bad move?

The Ohlins are a beautiful street set up. Australia has fucked roads and they work well here.

No one has gone to the extent I have properly documenting OEM in this type of car at this level, as its more relevant to customers across the world I though it best to do this as it holds much more credence and is something anyone can aspire to have + it proves just how good OEM parts really are as you and I both know ;) ;).

What spark plugs are you running rice, going to have to get some to suit the wi when I can finally afford the kit lol. You post my dli yet?

I still use the Trust re-branded NGK plugs, tested various heat ranges etc etc.

No I will post it Monday, thanks for the reminder!

No you won't you'll post it Tuesday lol. Mondays public holiday. Are the trust ones worth running in a daily? They are pretty dear aren't they? I've always run b9egv as that's what dysons told me back in the day but they can go suck a cock

I know its hard to tell over the internet but I must have run literally hundreds of different spark plug types across probably now millions of miles collective across many end users and I find it about 5 times more economic to use the ones I do now V's the EGV's

I daily drive the SP, cold starts gentle trips, pick the right heat range and they will never foul.... they last 50 times longer than EGV's too.

for some reason i thought someone told me once that ceramic apex seals dont seal as well under low rpms. is this true?

I'm sold then. Now just gotta find a place to get them.

Seals start another thread and I can let you know all about it if you like.
 

^ Feel free to start another thread and I might contribute, title it E85 and I will def post in it :puke: Let's leave the non used parts hypothesis out of this one :Chevy_anim:

You have quite the nice ride. I've really enjoyed reading through your experiences with your SP. I may have missed it, but what's your fuel setup like? Injectors, pump etc? Any thoughts on Injector types at all? When you say pump-gas, you're using the top grade available (91) ?

I really like those seats!