Just got a new clutch for the bad boy :)

OOoooh what kind and why no pics!

ATS 3 plate carbon, will take some pics when it shows up (getting sent today).

Oooh now I must have pics!

Is that the new one with both gearbox input and flywheel/clutch cover/stack carbon plates?

A mate just pulled what was a single disk (but with the stack style cover/assembly/centre) with a loose splined carbon disk out of his silvia, thing rattled and and transmitted vibration through the whole driveline on coast (although 180 phase 4 cylinders are obviously bad for this). He is only running low power and went back to a single sprung organic kit based on a 370 clutch cover.

I know you have used several brands of multi-plates before, do you find the non sprung centres ok for street driving? I know you don't go there any more but there seem to be a lot of people that are very happy with a couple of the japanese kits with sprung twin disk carbons on FDs.

No I got this semi carbon one for $2150Au brand new, it was a steal.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...GSR/triple.jpg
The full carbon that ATS make is custom and takes 5 months to make, they are $7500Au. I have run full carbon in Tilton 3 plate and they are fine, In all I have had over a dozen different carbon clutches in the one you are talking about the D-Core in Exedy I have had 3 of those and all have been fine, lots of those people all went off my recommendation from years ago when I was on there.... nice clutch, but even new (no wear) with proper power they will slip so not really suitable for a powerful FD set up.

Here is a little review of it here > http://www.evoxforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15381

The 'un sprung' center is ONLY ok if its a floating hub full spline design, if its the ghetto multi plate splines then these are for the want of a better word............... FUCKED!
They will vibrate and shown differential wear on each spline on the disks and under high power on a Mazda input shaft will twist the input spline making it near impossible to get the gearbox off! I know as I did it multiple times with Tilton Rally Clutches (in twin plate).

My clutch turned up :) pretty happy with the deal :fawk: $2149.99AU roughly $1700US or so.

Here you go faggots.
It's only the 1200bhp version, cause I wanted it to drive like stock feel :lol:

:drool5:

Whole conversion kit
http://i.imgur.com/Ykb1Ynk.jpg

Clutch components in order of assembly
http://i.imgur.com/jx7rn00.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/xmvaF7N.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/YpsZlF3.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/kAxXBbE.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/LPJDvVy.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/ulNJzKf.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/IfyZ349.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/LNEPCNo.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/CbaOhaa.jpg

MOTHER OF GOD!:drool5:

Interesting the way they have treated the tongues on the plates and run recessed radius for reduced stress concentration so it can't crack from wear at the edge of the tongues.

Are you going to run the pull to push with a fork or a concentric slave? I guess if you don't have clearance issues in a tunnel the external slave is easier to check on/bleed and less likely to contaminate the clutch if it fails.

Yeah it looks ok, just as a general comment its probably the worst made carbon clutch I have owned (just the way its made), but not fair on it I guess comparing to units that are 2 to 3 times the RRP of this one.

We will see, some people rave about it and how good it is, being the old style 1:1 lever ratio it will last a long time (though I am assuming ATS know how to make carbon material that lasts?) but most of these buy in that technology from Tilton anyway.

I am going to run it with the parts supplied, just simpler to adjust and check free play of the clutch pedal etc.

Shit was too cheap for me to resist.

Some c-u-n-t-s may find it hard to believe but yes I have had a few of these things LOL

http://i.imgur.com/fPZI9Xp.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Q1L5jDc.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/RwiQuRd.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/7KHy9Ke.jpg

MOAR@!!! (I have had 3 of these D-Core units alone@!)
http://i.imgur.com/yTMx3TQ.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/5hPzYsg.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/PcOh79K.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Qt3psga.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/8mnelU0.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/SJDPhei.jpg

someone say misfire?
NOT HERE!
LOL

http://i.imgur.com/HR67z5r.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/8VtAoXA.jpg

Ship it! NAOW!

I engraved the clutch today with the direction of the floater plates and even the carbon disks and put on the serial number, so shit that they do not do this from factory and just give you a gay arse sticker! and tell you in Manual to 'remember' the position of the plates when pulling it apart for checks and maintenance LOL.

The hardened flywheel and floaters and even hard coat on alloy cover a c-u-n-t to do but I DON MEGAED up and gagfactory gizz3000'nd it to perfection :)

I engraved the clutch today with the direction of the floater plates and even the carbon disks and put on the serial number, so shit that they do not do this from factory and just give you a gay arse sticker! and tell you in Manual to 'remember' the position of the plates when pulling it apart for checks and maintenance LOL.

The hardened flywheel and floaters and even hard coat on alloy cover a c-u-n-t to do but I DON MEGAED up and gagfactory gizz3000'nd it to perfection :)

That makes things a little easier..:o16:

This is the way it should have come from factory rather than with gay arse sticker to put on the cover lol, but nothing an engraver at 50,000rpm wont fix, carbon plates cant see when doing them, I like to do all the plates so they ALL go back in same orientation not just the floaters.

http://i.imgur.com/SkKBW9M.jpg

Yeah that should line them up nicely..

Clutch disks obviously are lined up in relation to side orientation (F/R) and to hub (radially) I through my experience find this important, but I have had more carbon clutches than some people have beaten off to donkey porn.

Seems like a no brainer to line everything up when tearing down and restacking.. Best wear pattern to prevent premature failure which is probably why you only get a sticker..

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