GSL SE Question

[fc nut]

Hey, wats up guys. It's been a while since I was on here last. I will be looking at a GSL SE here soon. It's been sitting for 3 or 4 yrs in some guys driveway. Fortunatly it's been on concrete. I'm sorry that I don't know anymore than it's a 5sp GSL SE. A guy at work told me about it. He said it didn't look bad on the inside and out. My question is, is there anything besides the usual that I should check out that are fb specific? Any input will be appreciated. Thanks.

[Rogue_Wulff]

Of course it's a 5 speed. The auto wasn't available in the GSL-SE.....

Take a screwdriver, and pull the bins out. Look under them for rust. Minor rust isn't a deal breaker, but large rust holes pretty much doom the chassis. Open the sunroof, and look for signs of rust there as well.

[fc nut]

Thanks for the advise.

[WE3RX7]

You wont really need to pull the bins out to tell if its totally a waste... just peer up into the rear wheel well and poke at it a little with that screwdriver... if its rusted, you'll find out quick.

I've had an FB w/ an over 6" hole there... no fun....

[Whizbang]

as far as specifics for the GSLSE, i cant recall anything particuarly problematic that is any different from the above. The EFI is pretty simple.

[rx4ur7]

Great car. Pretty darn bullet proof like all of the first generation.
Of course check for rust, jack it up or drive one side up on a curb to get a look at the bottom.
No real issues with the FB332. Nothing like the FC3S.
BAC and solenoid valves can act up. Not high failure rate though. They will blow igniters if jumped incorrectly like all with that distributor. Never really seen any problems with that EGI or anything for that matter. I am prejudiced though, it has been my daily driver for 10+ years.
If it hasn't run in a long time, dump all the fuel, replace filter disconnect fuel line and run fresh fuel through. Change oil and filter.
Check secondary actuators movement, check motor (take radiator cap off and run it until it gets fully warmed up to make sure there are no bubbles, if so you have big bargaining chip)
Check front strut mount towers, if they are not flat then it could have been in an accident. Look down at the front frame rails to see if they are bent.
Take a magnet or one of those magnetic business cards to check for bondo.

Take the rear bar off put sticky tires on it and go kick but in any solo. A set of Tokicos will not hurt either. (I am still running the original Mazda shocks, the Toki adjusts are still sitting on the shelf)

Build a motor with flow ported housings, and a header(with O2 sensor) and you will be bouncing off 180hp that will still pass emissions.

[fc nut]

The guy at work is still dicking me around. I'm wondering if the car even exists,I'm about to give up on him and look elsewhere.

[Whizbang]

eh just keep working on it. May be worth the effort.

[sikest1]

If its under a G take it and you can still make asweet ride or at least make your money in parts. as for what to look for all I can say is smoke means engine. trannys are bad but easy to rebuild, engines cost a bit more. as for rust the rear wheel wells, and you have to look up in the wheel well and poke with a screwdriver, or from the inside of the car just lift the carpet around the wheel well and you will find it and around the windshield is another popular spot as well as the front frame of the door. depending on the previous owner the bushings are another place to keep an eye out, for but this is the best car you can get for any price so it all depends on how much you love RX-7's to really judge what you are willing to put into it. All I know is RX-7's never die untill the driver stops caring