FC3S Murray's never ending build. [Archive] - Page 2

FC3S Murray

10-13-2009, 06:28 PM

Little update: Unfortunately nothing really new. I have some new parts I am gonna put under the knife this winter. I am gonna put on some poly bushings via my good friend project86. My bushings are stock and honestly I was thinking about just buying new OEM BUT I was convinced from friends that I might as well go big or go home.

I did order a new clear speedo cluster cover from Cyberstork via RHDJAPAN. That should look nice since my 21 year old plastic looks like ass.

I have ran into another exhst hic-up and am gonna re-weld a new flange on my DP. My thread is in the 2nd gen section.

Winter is here in Montana early(blows balls) and until I get this exhst system fixed and supported better I won't be driving if we get any clear days soon. 900 miles to go.............:( at least I can boost 5 psi right now WHOOP PEE! More time to tune I guess.

As for DEC/JAN projects I am looking into some new wheels and maybe some side skirts and a lip. SSR Sp-1's OR Work Meister S1's in 17''

If anyone wants my old SSR MK-IIR's by the time I want to get these new wheels, let me know. Give you a deal!!

need RX7

10-13-2009, 06:44 PM

SSR Sp-1's OR Work Meister S1's in 17''

:o16:

project86

10-19-2009, 09:41 PM

sean!!! when do you want those bushings? they are ready and waiting for you to "take" them :)

FC3S Murray

10-20-2009, 12:02 PM

...last time I dont log out

project86

10-20-2009, 11:59 PM

huh?

FC3S Murray

10-21-2009, 10:18 PM

Nevermind...a buddy got on my thread and inserted some interesting words to YOU all. Thank God for the EDIT button.

TitaniumTT

10-21-2009, 11:15 PM

:rofl: I kinda figured that's what happened. I would've edited it with his e-mail addy so the hate mail could be sent

project86

10-22-2009, 11:32 AM

damn lol i see.

MaczPayne

10-23-2009, 01:22 PM

What did he say? I missed it :(

FC3S Murray

10-25-2009, 10:52 AM

It was nothing. My buddies at work don't understand the obsession with rotaries EVEN THOUGH I try to relate it to being obsessed with the NFL. I think I will have one of them turned if he buys a used s4 t2 we found.

FC3S Murray

11-08-2009, 08:34 PM

So another little update- Still waiting on a custom V-band for my exhaust. I have tried almost every local diesel shop and automotive performance shop in Montana and I can't find a V-band with an inside apex of .340 or higher. My DP and turbine housing flange lip width is roughly .365 combined with no angle.

I will call ATP turbo tomorrow to see if they can hook me up. I honestly miss the 3 bolt configuration lol. Hopefully my machine shop gets this "fixed" with a trick he knows of.

I have been contemplating what suspension upgrades I want to do this winter. I am looking at a pair of coilovers from BC Racing that a buddy has on his FC in town. He swears it rides better then the Tokico Blue/Tanabe GF210 set up I have(or any other strut/spring combo), I believe it since BC's are rated at 8k F/ 6k R. I need to ride in it.

I am going to install some new black poly bushings and am looking at some aftermarket sway bars BUT have been reading numerous opinions about upgrading the front bar only since the beefy rear bar brings about understeer when racing(I will be racing this pig in the future...I think :)) I am still in the air.

As for wheels I have been spying many types and really am overwhelmed to make a good decision. SSR SP-1's are awesome BUT I have loved RE Amemiya AW-7's in 17'' since forever. Work Miesters are fucking wonderful BUT if I want coilovers the Works will be a long time out haha. I think I am leaning more toward the AW-7's then painting the center gloss graphite.

Basically I am getting depressed that winter is coming and I have a 5 month stand still until WOT tuning.

TitaniumTT

11-09-2009, 11:20 AM

WE3RX7

11-09-2009, 05:08 PM

I only upgraded my front bar, left the rear bar stock - in the few auto-x events I did years ago it performed well on the stock 185 tires - I plan to leave the stock rear sway in place for now until I finish the car and see how it reacts with a 2 way and the new Stance coilovers, but generally little rear or no rear sway is where its at. May be worth while to leave it on the car, and simply detach the end links as in some events (TT) its worth it but in tighter, lower speed events (AutoX) its not...

FC3S Murray

11-09-2009, 05:52 PM

Hey Sean, as far as suspension goes, I'm running the Stance C/o's in a 7/5 combo, RB front bar, NO rear bar and I get no understeer when my tires are warm. As far as ride quality, I've got my shocks set midway through the adjustment side and unless it's a washboard road or a huge pothole (I've been ejected from my seat and hit the roof before) I'd have to agree that the ride is a bit more forgiving. I hated my blues after a year or so.

I'm also running a a Torsen rear which helps out tremendously

I HATE my blues now too! Every little bump makes me so freaking mad. My interior is noise-free, no rattles no sqeaks, I worked very hard at that because I HATE interior noise. That is the only benificial thing the blues have done for me is helped me weed out theose last few hard to find rattles.

So I imagine with a 7/5 combo AND your shocks set to full soft, it would be rather nice huh?

Thanks WE3, I was just about to post and ask why no rear bar is so popular. Any additional stresses put on the rear suspension when running no rear bar?

FC3S Murray

11-18-2009, 01:27 PM

UPDATE: Well I found the problem with my V-band set up: It was a combination of two things: 1) I had to shave a small section of one exhaust stud on my HKS Manifold because it was hitting this new THICKER style v-band. 2) My 100$ turbo blanket was coming apart on the bottom of the turbine housing and the wire mesh that holds the fabric together was "bonded' to my turbine housing. WTF? haha

I found this all last night when I decided to remove the turbo from the manifold thinking I was going to have the cnc my turbine weld in flange. After I pulled it and removed the blanket I test fitted my old v-band clamp and it fit VERY SNUG! Then I mounted it and found the issue with the exhst stud. I have ordered a new clamp that was the original company I got with the turbo, 5 star mfg.

I think I have ran into another problem with the turbo: When I took off my Turbo inlet duct I had a good 3-4 drops of oil accumulated in my compressor inlet. I checked on the back side of the compressor ousing and only found on little 1/2'' stained "spot" on the very bottom of the housing. Also found very light amount of oil all inside the compressor housing. SO DO I need new turbo oil seals? I am running 100+ psi oil pressure with my FD regulator AND I have a reducer type oil inlet flange for the turbo. Can't be too much pressure ya think? I do have extremley high oil pressure on start up, then after it warms up it bleeds down to stock operating pressure at idle.

I have never replaced turbo oil seals so I hope it is not to involved...

I have also decided to ditch the turbo blanket and get the turbine housing cermanic coated(cost just as much for a high dollar blanket...score!)

I also have the suspenion torn apart as I speak. I have removed all bushings BUT the rear trailing arm bushings on the subframe. I dont want to drop the subframe...I am lazy plus they looked good, actually the front control arm rear busing looked GREAT. Poly is better anyway. :)
All new BLACK Energy Suspension bushings are ready to be installed once I get in my Racing Beat front Sway bar.

I am wondering if I should just upgrade the rear bar too since the front will be extremly stiff now and undoubtedly I will have understeer with the front upgrade only. ???? Any input guys?

I also purchased some 5mm spacers for my front hubs since my tires are rubbing on my Tanabe GF210's. Enough rubbing to have stripped the paint off the springs. 5mm should do the job. If my wheels don't sell I am powder coating them this January.

Thats it for now.

FC3S Murray

11-18-2009, 08:18 PM

Just talked to Turbonetics and they said that light oil in the compressor is acceptable. I also saw on their website that oil feed restrictors are not advised. On the phone I explianed that my set up reaches 100+ psi and they then said a restirictor is needed, I have been running one since I bought the turbo.

I have not took this turbo off since the rebuild so...that means I have put about 1100 miles on the trubo with no boost except for atmospheric runs. I wonder if that is enough mileage to accumulate the amount of oil I found inside the compressor?.?.?

All my feed and drian line sizes are good, -4 an feed and -10 drain so that isn't the problem.

I wonder if I still have too high of crank case pressure with my catch can? I obvisouly havn't been in boost yet so I doubt this is the issue. hmmm?

FC3S Murray

11-18-2009, 10:44 PM

Here are some pics of the oil I have found. I am awaiting Turbonetics technical board to tell me if it is bad AND if I can rebuild it. Apparently the ball bearing turbos have to be built by them for balancing purposes.

You can see the oil/air flow swirls on the housing and back plate. I even looked in my intercooler charge pipe off of the turbo and there is the same noticable residue/swirl.

Always something:beatdeadhorse5:

FC3S Murray

11-19-2009, 03:54 PM

so Turbonetics contacted me and said it is ok. The problem could be from my -10AN 90 Degree fitting for my oil drian from the turbo. It is the only option I have for an angled fitting, a 45 degree fitting would cause a slight incline on the way to the front cover fitting and would result in oil pooling.

I guess I will inspect the comp housing evry now and then and see if it worsens. I have no smoke at idle and had NO SMOKE on WOT pulls on my last motor so the turbo oil seals are fine. If they are going out I will soon find ouy come WOT tuning time.

Good news BUT I am slightly annoyed that this is acceptable. I don't like leaks or "seeps" period!!

TitaniumTT

11-20-2009, 09:48 AM

FC3S Murray

11-20-2009, 11:39 AM

Damn Sean, that blows. I thought one of the main advantages of the BB turbo's was the LACK of seepage? I might put a call into Garrett or a few turbo rebuilders and see what their input is on the whole thing.

Well thing is it is NOT a ball bearing. Apparently it is one of the very early 62-1 Turbonetics produced. To verify all I had to do was look up the turbo oil drain flange and if I spotted a hole in the casting with "shiney metal" behind it, it was a ball bearing. Mine just had the cast iron around the entire turbo shaft. So I wonder in regards to what you said Brian if seepage is normal on normal bearing turbos??

ANOTHER CHANGE: I was going to get my turbine housing ceraminc coated but I have done some research and it seems that ceramic coating only benefits race cars since they have well ventilated engine bays to scavange heat. Ceramic coating is good for heat insulation BUT doesn't reduce engine bay temps near as much as a blanket. I on the other hand want to reduce under hood temps and that is the soul purpose of the blanket.

This Ebay Blanket I purchased last year worked AWESOME only draw back is I have to install it after I put my DP on my turbo.The reason mine went tits up was because of the constant removal/install of my downpipe really takes a toll on that fabric once it has seen high temps. PLUS constantly pushing it out of the way to make my V-band secure to the back side of my turbo fucked up the fabric around the metal eyelets. I will need to install my new blanket once I have the DP mated to the turbo. If I ever need to remove my DP I will then have to cut the safety wire used to snug to blanket down and carefully remove..........WOW that was long winded haha

Add another 110.00 to my FC deposit. Worth it though.

TitaniumTT

11-20-2009, 10:33 PM

Yeah, small amounts of seepage and blowby is acceptable. Puddles are a bad thing though :ROFL:

Another thing to consider when ceramic coating, mainly on like a compressor housing, is that you want the thing to vent heat, not contain it.

IMHO - like you said, a blanket and some header wrap would be a lot better at reducing the underhood temps than ceramic coating. We can shoot a lazer temp probe at my mani and it will read much hotter than what your car would be doing with a blanket...... note to self - build a LIM heatshield over the winter

Thanks Sean, more work :lol:

FC3S Murray

11-21-2009, 12:29 PM

note to self - build a LIM heatshield over the winter

Thanks Sean, more work :lol:

HAHA you are welcome. Heatshield and DIY reflective tape should do the trick for your LIM. I made my own heat shield AND coated the entire lower portion of the LIM with reflective heat tape. Works wonders.

FC3S Murray

11-21-2009, 12:30 PM

heat tape

TitaniumTT

11-21-2009, 01:47 PM

Nice Sean! Thanks clean! Really clean.... I likey

FC3S Murray

11-21-2009, 08:51 PM

Thanks man! I was happy once it was finished. Just got the sheet metal from good old ACE in .032'' and used some avaition shears.

**one note: to secure the bottom of the long shield that is secured by the UIM nut, I rounded the bottom edge(look closley in the first pic) and drilled a hole where the front rotor housing exhaust manifold stud is. Then you can get a ratcheting 14mm wrench down there to snug another 14mm nut tight over the shield to keep it flopping around.

Total cost was like 40.00 with DIY heat shielding matting included.

I am SURE you will conjure up something sweet. :)

BTW Does anyone know which way the rear swaybar endlinks go: Larger bushing eyelet up or down? My FC had one side oppisite the other WTF??

project86

11-22-2009, 02:43 AM

doesnt the fsm have that in it?

FC3S Murray

11-22-2009, 11:32 AM

doesnt the fsm have that in it?

Nope, very lame. One end of the endlinks has a yellow dot on top BUT the fsm fails to specify which way up or down...

Max777

11-22-2009, 03:05 PM

Where did you get the "heat shielding" tape from?

A did a few runs out in the country the other day, and after I got back home, popped the hood and the turbine housing was glowing a dull red.... After seeing that I really like the heat shield tape idea. I dunno if I can cram a shield in between the stock S4 turbo, through...

FC3S Murray

11-22-2009, 05:18 PM

Jegs or Summit have it. I even think Checker Auto or O'Rielly's has the DEI products.

FC3S Murray

11-24-2009, 01:52 PM

ANYONE in regards to the endlinks???

TitaniumTT

11-24-2009, 02:07 PM

The bolt on the control arm can only be one size becuase it's threaded into the arm. I would take which ever end fits more snug and put that on the control arm. Find a snug fitting nut & bolt for the top and have at it.

Honestly though, try driving around with no rear bar. Neither my lifted XJ nor my lowered 7 are running a rear bar and both feel great.

Max777

11-24-2009, 06:54 PM

/\ What kind of suspension mods have you done? Do you think that this would be beneficial on a stock suspension? I have heard that it's only worthwhile to do if you modified your suspension a lot. (ie: coilovers, RCA, bushings, etc)

FC3S Murray

11-25-2009, 06:14 PM

Hey quick question guys: When installing these Energy Suspension bushings, CAN you torque the lower control arm bolts before the FC is on the wheels. I know you dont torque the endlinks till wieght is on the suspension BUT I have found conflicting opinions on the matter.

FC3S Murray

11-26-2009, 02:49 PM

What do you guys think?? Blitz 01 17x8 17x9. I will powder coat center graphite.

I think I am gonna do it. I may have a buyer for my SSR's

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/securedownload-1-2.jpg

classicauto

11-26-2009, 04:07 PM

those wheels are sex.

Pure furious animal sex.

FC3S Murray

11-26-2009, 04:17 PM

I know! They are sweet!!

Hey Classic you have any idea in regards to my bushing/ control arm torque question??

TitaniumTT

11-26-2009, 10:28 PM

Which bushings in which arms Sean? If they are the front outer bolts on the rear control arms, snug them, but leave them loose, you'll want to be able to get to them when you set your rear toe.

Those were the bushing that I remember seeing last.

I'm digging the wheels.... ALOT

FC3S Murray

11-26-2009, 10:34 PM

They are the bushings on the front control arms. The two bolts that bolt the U bracket up the the front crossmember and then the long 17mm bolt that passes through the eye/bushing on the front bushing of the FRONT control arm. lol

Yes the wheels are so so nice. Cant wait to buy them.

TitaniumTT

11-26-2009, 11:18 PM

Gotcha, torque it all down with the car in the air but make sure everything moves smooth.....stiff... but smooth.

FC3S Murray

11-27-2009, 12:33 AM

Thanks bro!

I hope thanksgiving was good. BTW I showed my cousin, who got me into the rotary scene your little turkey video. He laughed pretty hard, so did my mother and aunt. They cracked up when you yelled. "what the FUCK!" lol

Oh the good old times of family get togethers and large amounts of alcohol.

FC3S Murray

11-29-2009, 01:21 PM

Anyone know if I can leave this line just hanging? The FSM says it is a check valve for fuel tank de-pressurization. It looks like it just routes from a nipple to the rear fender or pass rear storage bin. Nipple broke off in line when I was torquing my rear SB endlink bolt.

If it just a vent I should be ok BUT want to make sure.

???????????????????????

TitaniumTT

11-29-2009, 02:12 PM

just a nipple for the ventbro, maybe try cleaning it and then hit it with a little CA glue?

Are you still using your charcoal canister?

Whizbang

11-29-2009, 02:43 PM

as long as the tip valve thing can function (ie if you roll fuel doesnt come out of it) then i wouldnt be all too worried unless the smell of fuel bothers you.

TitaniumTT

11-29-2009, 03:04 PM

The tip that broke doesn't have the valve IIRC.... the check ball vavle do hickey is located in top of the tank and the 3 way connector is activated by engine vac.... IIRC... been a LONG time since I had to figure all that out.

I know what I did though, I took that valve in top of the tank and vented it to atmosphere through a sintered filter that I located on top over the fuel fill. I smell ZERO gas.

Whizbang

11-29-2009, 03:10 PM

I smell ZERO gas.

aww where is the fun in that?

TitaniumTT

11-29-2009, 03:12 PM

I'm a smoker, it worries me :dunno:

I was trying to convince my partner to do the same thing with his tank, then I realized I HAVE his tank so whether he wants to or not, it's gonna happen :lol: actually, it already happened

FC3S Murray

11-29-2009, 04:21 PM

just a nipple for the ventbro, maybe try cleaning it and then hit it with a little CA glue?

Are you still using your charcoal canister?

Thanks man. That is what I thought and after a little more FSM searching I knew what it was and where it routed.

SUPER GLUE TIME!

BTW FUCK torquing the rear SB endlink bushings....That blew. WISH i had a alignment rack just laying around lol.

TitaniumTT

11-29-2009, 05:23 PM

:smilielol5: I'm tellin' ya man, ditch the rear bar alltogether

FC3S Murray

11-29-2009, 10:11 PM

I know I know but I am only running Tanabe springs and Tokico Blues. I heard you only want to run no bar IF you have coilovers with a moderatly high spring rate??? Just a rumor....?

TitaniumTT

11-30-2009, 12:18 AM

The benefit will be there regardless of the spring rates being used.... I would think less spring rate would result in a higher benefit from no bar, allows the suspension to flex. If there were no springs, only shocks and you went hard into a turn the inside wheel would lift from the outside wheels compression and the swaybar picking the inner up. So I dunno how much truth there is to what you heard.

FWIW I'm running a 7/5 setup, RB front and no rear and I love it. VERY neutral, slight understeer when I head into a turn too hot or too hard on the brakes.

FC3S Murray

12-02-2009, 12:03 PM

So I have everything finished with my damn bushings. I have to say that if anyone planned on doing that in one night IT IS possible but a pain in the ass if your suspension has not been tampered with since it left the showroom floor back in the 80's lol.

I am thinking what I want to do next for this winter?? I would like to wire my Fuel pump to a relay but an unsure how I can have it cycle off if the engine stops running while the ignition is on. VERY tired today and will figure it out when I wake up...brain not working 100% today

Other projects are gonna include some camber plates, fuel system maintenance(filter and strainer), interior work on door panel carpet and maybe some more engine bay wire tucking.

Got some AWESOME news on Sat night; My wife and I have been trying for another little monster and my superior genetic seed pulled through and we are expecting in August:icon_tup::icon_tup: I am very stoked:):)

SO...Looks as if the wheels are gonna have to wait til tax time:rofl:.......if other expenses do not take priority for the sake of our second child. Actually the FC will definately be on the back burner for a while now BUT it is basically where I want it besides wanting some new wheels/rubber and small exterior tweaks.

Those good old Guard Drill paychecks will have to be "car paychecks" since that money is kind of a bonus and usually never budgeted:001_005:

FC3S Murray

12-02-2009, 10:51 PM

So I REALLY like the Work Equips that rotarybeat purchased on the other forum. A couple options:

Silver
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/workequipwheels.jpg

Black
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/workequipwheels-1.jpg

Graphite (MY FAVORITE)
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/workequipwheels-2.jpg

What you all think?? Blitz 01's or Work's..:o11:

FC3S Murray

12-16-2009, 09:18 PM

I think I am going Work VS-XX Now Silver, Gold or Gunmetal. I really like gold lol....seriously though. :)

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/VSXX.jpg

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/VSXX-2.jpg

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/VSXX-3.jpg

EJayCe996

12-16-2009, 11:10 PM

I think I am going Work VS-XX Now Silver, Gold or Gunmetal. I really like gold lol....seriously though. :)

Gold on blue is too Subie for me.

FC3S Murray

12-16-2009, 11:52 PM

I know I know BUT it does pop though. :)

Silver is MOST LIKELY what I will do since powder coating is so damn expensove up here in MT.

NoDOHC

12-17-2009, 12:41 AM

How many miles do you have on your engine? Are you able to drive it in the winter?

FC3S Murray

12-17-2009, 08:42 AM

Nope. I have about 1100 miles on her. Weather is nasty here and even when the snow melts there is so much gravel it will strip the paint off your front end.

TitaniumTT

12-17-2009, 09:01 AM

Gold on blue is too Subie for me.

True story.

I like the silver or the Gunmetal. When/if this happens Sean, you need to tell me what happens with the front bearing caps. I still haven't had the chance to really delve into that issue as I plan on using the Works as race for the FC for now, although they may become DD duty for the FD in the future.

Nope. I have about 1100 miles on her. Weather is nasty here and even when the snow melts there is so much gravel it will strip the paint off your front end.

That sucks man... like alot. I have MAYBE one more week of the FC before she's away till April :icon_tdown:

FC3S Murray

12-17-2009, 06:13 PM

True story.

I like the silver or the Gunmetal. When/if this happens Sean, you need to tell me what happens with the front bearing caps. I still haven't had the chance to really delve into that issue as I plan on using the Works as race for the FC for now, although they may become DD duty for the FD in the future.

That sucks man... like alot. I have MAYBE one more week of the FC before she's away till April :icon_tdown:

Will do on the caps bro. And yes it blows balls that winter is isolation for the FC up here in MT. I miss the winter days in Cali BUT not the other BS that comes with that damn state. ;)

MaczPayne

12-17-2009, 07:17 PM

You know you want to come back here!

FC3S Murray

12-18-2009, 12:35 AM

You know you want to come back here!

Yeah for Sevenstock and In and Out.....thats it:001_005: :rofl:

FC3S Murray

12-19-2009, 05:30 PM

So the SSR's sold today and left on a UPS truck to their new home!! :)

Working on the VS-XX's with the seller. Sounds like it is for sure. YES!!

FC3S Murray

12-24-2009, 06:12 PM

Little Update:

So I ended up getting a sweet deal on some 17''x8 +28, 17''x9 +29 WORK EQUIPS. I liked the VS-XX's BUT the Equips are just to sweet!! I should be getting them by Tuesday.

Now I am in the process of deciding what series of tire I want to get. It is a pickle due to how much fender gap I want with these new shoes.

I am up in the air with either 40 or 45 series tires. 45's will fill my wheel wells perfect with my current Tokico/gf210 set up BUT will probably feel sloppy. 40's will be stiff BUT will leave a slighlty larger gap in my fenders....I am most likely just gonna get coilovers this tax season so this may be all in vain lol. :rofl:

Meanwhile today I decided I am gonna need to roll my fenders regardless if I ever lower this FC more. Went at it this morning with a heat gun and rubber body mallet................

Passenger side went GREAT with no cracking.
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/fenderroll003.jpg
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/fenderroll001.jpg
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/fenderroll002.jpg

The driverside was a **** and already had a "bite" in the fender lip that caused a small 2mm crack this last summer. I knew the crack was gonna spread and sure as shit it grew about 2''....
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/fenderroll004.jpg
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/fenderroll006.jpg

Here is the crack after I touched it up(my ocd couldn't let this fly though...;))
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/fenderroll005.jpg

SOOOOOOOOO then I said screw it and got out some 2000 grit and wet sanded that damn crack, applies some touch up, then some rubbing compound, then a heavy coat of 3M Hand Glaze followed by a little more touch up paint. Turned out GREAT and is barely noticable. :icon_tup:
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/fenderroll007.jpg
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/fenderroll008.jpg

As for tires I am thinking about Nitto NT555's or Falken FK425's. If ANYONE knows of other street Ultra HP tires, please fill me in.

Will post pics of the wheels as soon as they get here.

MaczPayne

12-25-2009, 05:28 AM

Federal 595RSR's are decently priced and perform quite well.

As for fender rolling, I pulled mine out a little more today, the paint cracked big time where the bondo was.

TitaniumTT

12-26-2009, 02:36 PM

Nice job Sean, I demand pics ASAP.

I think I'm just gonna roll the fenders in the FD before I even spray primer :rofl:

FC3S Murray

12-26-2009, 02:41 PM

Nice job Sean, I demand pics ASAP.

I think I'm just gonna roll the fenders in the FD before I even spray primer :rofl:

Thanks man! I would roll them before too. It would be less stressful then doing it with new paint. I was pretty pissed it cracked but whatever...it is just a car and I would rather have a small paint imperfection then a chewed up fender from a tire. :o11:

WE3RX7

12-27-2009, 01:53 AM

Gold on blue is too Subie for me.

You'll hate my FC then :)

Get some pics up of the wheels when you get them. What color did you end up going with on the wheels you got the deal on?

17x8 +28 huh.... you shouldnt have too much rubbing issues up front... but rolling the fenders is definitely a safe bet. Looks good man!

TitaniumTT

12-27-2009, 10:57 AM

17x8 +28 should look awesome. I'm running 17x8+35 and there is a less offset that could be there. I've always thought of running a small 5-7 mm spacer to bump them out just a touch more. I love that perfect flush look and the benefit of the FC's suspension is that it will tuck into the well upon compression.

FC3S Murray

12-27-2009, 05:56 PM

Get some pics up of the wheels when you get them. What color did you end up going with on the wheels you got the deal on?

17x8 +28 huh.... you shouldnt have too much rubbing issues up front... but rolling the fenders is definitely a safe bet. Looks good man!

They are silver. I will decide if I want to make them a gloss graphrite once I see how silver looks on my Blue.

Yeah I figured rubbing wouldn't be an issue with that offset BUT I have a 5mm spacer just in case ;)

I am hoping I rolled my fenders enough, i didn't fold the fender lip completely against the inner fender due to really cracking the paint BUT trust me it is folded damn good. Plus I only did a "very tight fold" from one red point to the other on the picture.
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Album2008002-1-2.jpg

Is that enough?? ...we will have to wait and see.

FC3S Murray

12-27-2009, 06:02 PM

EJayCe996

12-27-2009, 07:13 PM

You'll hate my FC then :)

Doubt it ;)

project86

01-07-2010, 03:13 PM

sean! pics of wheels!

FC3S Murray

01-07-2010, 04:49 PM

Hold on MoFo! I have one more lip to sand and polish. I am awaiting my newly powder coated/cleared centers from Big Sky Perfromance Coatings. PLUS I need to strip the old ass RTV from the rims and polish/clean the 148 bolts!! :( Needless to say I should have hit up the "refurbish" option when I had the chance.

Fuck it, I saved 300.00$....just lost most of my fingerprints from sanding.

In due time my friends lol

TitaniumTT

01-07-2010, 06:15 PM

Fuck it, I saved 300.00$....just lost most of my fingerprints from sanding.

That's not all a bad thing :suspect: I lost alot of definition from metal working and general calases. I've been fingerprinted three times now and each time the dude made some snyde remark :ugh2:

FC3S Murray

01-07-2010, 09:14 PM

Lol Brian, now you got me thinking what I can get away with...

Thanks for the help with the PM's man. So can I still get Stance CO's from Auto RND for 1000??

TitaniumTT

01-07-2010, 10:53 PM

No worries Sean. I dunno about $1000. Call Rishie, that's who I bought them from. It was 2 years ago though sooooooo, I'm willing to bet that the prices changed. Damn, it WAS 2 years ago wasn't it..... shit.

WE3RX7

01-07-2010, 11:10 PM

I paid 1280 shipped for Stance GR+ Pros... that was the best price I could find a few months ago when I got mine.

FC3S Murray

01-09-2010, 08:26 AM

Man I HATE this winter BS!! Doesn't matter I guess since the FC is wheel-less. I just want to get my rubber, coilovers and wrap up some loose ends and hit the road!!

FC3S Murray

01-20-2010, 10:42 PM

Well here is a lttle update:

I finally got my Do-it-yourself wheel refurbish done on my poor condition Work Equips. After 6 grits o sandpaper and sme water and elbow grease, I have to say they came out great. There are some minor imperfections BUT frankly at this point I dont give two shits(it does slightly bother me though:)).

I had the centers powder coated here in town and he did a wonderful job for the price. I have one face that has some "acne" that hopefully I can wet sand but I am unsure if you can wet sand powder coating.?.?..I think it is in the clear coat, if so no biggy I can fix that.

All the bolts were in rusty shape and only 20 of the 128 came out bad. I had to order 15 more from WORK and they were $20 per 5!! :o11:

All that is left is to clean the old silicon off of the rim pieces and seal up. I wonder if I need to remove the powder coating on the outside diameter of the center face to better ensure a seal with the silicone upon assembly...anyone know??

Here are some pics:

Before: bad corrision as you can see:icon_tdown::icon_tdown:

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Wheelrefurbproject003.jpg
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Wheelrefurbproject004.jpg
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Wheelrefurbproject002.jpg
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Wheelrefurbproject001.jpg

After some sanding at 600 grit(still have 800, 1000, 1500 and 2000 to go:beatdeadhorse5:

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Wheelrefurbproject001-1.jpg

Finished lips and newly coated "darker silver" centers

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Wheelrefurbproject002-1.jpg
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Wheelrefurbproject003-1.jpg

And the final project:001_005:

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Wheelrefurbproject004-1.jpg

SOO much work but I found it ironic that i had to work for my WORK's HAHAHAHAHAHAHAH....
Tires are next: Falken FK-452's in 235/40 and 255/40.

Awaiting money for BC coilovers I am about to buy. Updates soon...........................................:ic on_tup:

calicrewchief

01-20-2010, 11:34 PM

Wheels looks great man! Way to put some elbow grease into it.

TitaniumTT

01-20-2010, 11:43 PM

No doubt, nice job Sean :icon_tup:

FC3S Murray

01-21-2010, 12:30 AM

Wheels looks great man! Way to put some elbow grease into it.

Thanks dude!.......I have no finger prints on my thumb and pointer/middle fingers:rofl:

No doubt, nice job Sean

Thanks homie!!!

I am still wondering about the powder coat/sealing issue. I will have to research some more.

WE3RX7

01-21-2010, 06:55 AM

Nice job! Would have gone gold, but ya know :)

Its always nice when you can bring something back like that though and it probably saved you a ton over getting new wheels.

On the powdercoating question, I've never had to seal a PC part against a non-PC part but I would think you would be ok to not sand it off. The only catch would be that the PC was applied properly and is level...if it has any dips/changes in elevation I would sand it off to be safe.

djmtsu

01-21-2010, 08:01 AM

Damn those look nice. Good work on your WORKs.

Makes me want to take apart those SSR's.........

TitaniumTT

01-21-2010, 09:10 AM

Nice job! Would have gone gold, but ya know :)

:7: Bill, I'ma go rent me a trailer and I'll see you in the morning so we can load your car up, bring to the land of good taste and you can go buy a scubie :p

On the powdercoating question, I've never had to seal a PC part against a non-PC part but I would think you would be ok to not sand it off. The only catch would be that the PC was applied properly and is level...if it has any dips/changes in elevation I would sand it off to be safe.

Agreed, as long as the coating is level, it shouldn't be a problem, however, if it went on thick, it may need to come down a bit.

Out of curiosity, as this was the debate that got me banned on the evil forum for calling out a newb on the subject, what temp were the centers baked too? was the temp brought down gradually? If you heat AL too much and/or bring it down too fast, you temper the material making it weaker. Now, I'm no metalurgist so I don't know the exact temps, but I do know that a standard powder like mine, that has to be baked @ 450*F is way to hot to use with wheels.

Damn those look nice. Good work on your WORKs.

Makes me want to take apart those SSR's.........

SSR's you say :suspect: You've got 3 months DJ!

FC3S Murray

01-21-2010, 10:11 AM

I will have to ask what he baked it at. PC is SO common on alum wheels you think this issue would have been brought up many times. hmm...

I bet DJ's SSR's turn out sweet! It will be nice to see what color he changes them.

TitaniumTT

01-21-2010, 10:30 AM

That's the thing that worries me though, that it has been done so many times and I would hate to see some guy thinking that becuase it has been done, it doesn't need to be done in any special way, and there is a right way and a wrong way. If the guy is good and experienced and knows his stuff, then I wouldn't worry, but if he doesn't and just knows how to spray some powder, than I would be a little concerned.

Like I said Sean, I don't know the specific temps, I just know that it needs to be low temp, well, lower than the standard Eastwood powder, and the temp needs to be brought up and down slowly.

FC3S Murray

01-21-2010, 12:18 PM

Interesting you say that man because I called the guy who did my PC and was requesting he come look at the one center peice that has the dbris under the coating. Of course he was very professional and agreed to do it over for free. ANYHOW he started to explain how forged aluminum is very hard to get a good fishish on due to the baking temp.

I will met him this afternoon for him to pick up the one center and am DEFINATELY going to ask him what temp he bakes at for alum.

TitaniumTT

01-21-2010, 12:21 PM

Sounds like he knows his stuff though and knows that AL needs less of a temp. What I like to do is bake my parts first to burn off the contaminents from the inside, then clean them again, then coat them. Works well on anything underhood that was exposed to oil and nastiness becuase it justs burns it off. Stinks like transient hooker ass but works well.

FC3S Murray

01-21-2010, 03:05 PM

hahaha.

Well I asked him and he said that he bakes aluminum at 375*F for 25 mins cure time. I have read some interesting threads on the annealing properties of aluminum BUT it seems that the TYPE is most crucial. Cast and Forged 356 T-6 aluminum can withstand aging at 305-315*F 2 to 5 hours. The T-7 aluminum can take 435-455*F 7 to 9 hours before annealing. I wonder what these forged WORKs are made of??????

The imperfections on my wheel was residual sand from blasting. It will be fixed asap. Good Shit!!

FC3S Murray

01-21-2010, 03:16 PM

classicauto

01-21-2010, 03:36 PM

Haven't checked this thread in a while - NICE work on the equips!! That is some dedication to the polishing on those lips.

Big ups! :)

WE3RX7

01-21-2010, 04:10 PM

I bet DJ's SSR's turn out sweet! It will be nice to see what color he changes them.

Better be GOLD!!! :)

FC3S Murray

01-21-2010, 04:31 PM

Haven't checked this thread in a while - NICE work on the equips!! That is some dedication to the polishing on those lips.

Big ups! :)

Thanks man! Yeah tell me about...I had a couple times where only beer numbed the pain in my hands and elbows.

"Better be GOLD!!! "

LOL you are a subie nerd at heart

chibikougan

01-22-2010, 11:09 AM

Looks Great. I should keep better track. I have a polishing kit for hand drill with assorted buffers, wheels , and super fine polishing compounds. Takes a little bit of the hand abuse out of the picture.

FC3S Murray

01-22-2010, 03:18 PM

MAN Ransom I would have loved to know that :)!!

Polishing was a breeze since I used a Mothers Flex power cone and chicago buffer.

FC3S Murray

01-27-2010, 07:03 PM

Got my rubber in today..........:)

235/40 up front
255/40 in back

Hope they stick well. The reviews on these were great and I looked around FOREVER.

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Wheelrefurbproject003-2.jpg

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Wheelrefurbproject001-2.jpg

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Wheelrefurbproject002-2.jpg

TitaniumTT

01-27-2010, 07:52 PM

NICE!

So how do those compare to the RT615 and the NT-01/NT-05? I can't decide.

Nice choice on the sizes ;)

need RX7

01-27-2010, 08:12 PM

Nice rubbers!

FC3S Murray

01-27-2010, 08:59 PM

NICE!

So how do those compare to the RT615 and the NT-01/NT-05? I can't decide.

Nice choice on the sizes ;)

Well the Falken RT615 and the Nitto NT-01/05's are HARDCORE performance tires. Really for track you and light street driving. I would think they perfrom better on dry conditions then these FK-452's . I WAS going to go with Direzza Sport Z1
Star Spec's but they were known for very fast wear BUT extremly sticky for street tires. A little pricey for my budget range.

I went with the 452's for longer tread life then the others listed and a better "wet" performance if I am ever put in the position of rain when on a road trip. I really wanted some Ultra HP tires that will last a little while until I have to shell out another 500 for more rubber. I have came across mixed reviews having to due with road noise but we will see.....most bad reviews were on Hondas for some reason WHILE the good reviews were from many Porsche, Cobra and Corvette owners.

I was actually thinking in the future of the Falken RT615's for a track tire once I pick up a set of cheap 17'' race wheels.

FC3S Murray

01-27-2010, 09:03 PM

Nice rubbers!

This will be the only time I actually use one lol:rofl:

TitaniumTT

01-27-2010, 11:40 PM

Cool, thanks man.

Well the Falken RT615 and the Nitto NT-01/05's are HARDCORE performance tires. Really for track you and light street driving. I would think they perfrom better on dry conditions then these FK-452's . I WAS going to go with Direzza Sport Z1
Star Spec's but they were known for very fast wear BUT extremly sticky for street tires. A little pricey for my budget range.

Weeeeellllllll I'm a hardcore kinda guy :rofl: and I plan on using them for auto-x and such. I was pleased with the wear on the RT615's for future reference. I've heard a lot of good things about the Dunlops but I've had bad experiences with their truck tires so I'm kinda leary about them.

I went with the 452's for longer tread life then the others listed and a better "wet" performance if I am ever put in the position of rain when on a road trip. I really wanted some Ultra HP tires that will last a little while until I have to shell out another 500 for more rubber. I have came across mixed reviews having to due with road noise but we will see.....most bad reviews were on Hondas for some reason WHILE the good reviews were from many Porsche, Cobra and Corvette owners.

Yeah I hear ya on the wet traction issuue but I ran the Dragon last year in the rain on the RT615's and I was quite pleased with them honestly. I've got no issues running those in the rain which is why I'm not very hesitant to rock some NT-01's for this year.

I was actually thinking in the future of the Falken RT615's for a track tire once I pick up a set of cheap 17'' race wheels.

I have a cheap set of 17" rims for sale :D REALLY light mfer's too..... sooooooo

WE3RX7

01-27-2010, 11:55 PM

Tires should have grooves? huh... knew I was doing something wrong :)

I run the 512 HP on my rx8 for the winter and they do well. They dont seem to wear out too quick, have good wet traction and acceptable dry traction with stiff sidewalls. So far no real complaints, I'm sure you'll be fine. I wouldnt use them for competition though... they chunk :)

FC3S Murray

01-28-2010, 06:17 PM

Yeah I hear ya on the wet traction issuue but I ran the Dragon last year in the rain on the RT615's and I was quite pleased with them honestly. I've got no issues running those in the rain which is why I'm not very hesitant to rock some NT-01's for this year.

OH YEAH..i totally forgot about the rain at DGRR last year from your pics. Fuck me..that would have been a big factor in my purchase since you really pushed them to the "max" in wet conditions.

calicrewchief

01-29-2010, 01:49 AM

You get those wheels mounted yet? Pics!:willy_nilly:

RETed

01-29-2010, 05:19 AM

The FK452's are the old Falken GR-beta's?
I think they are...
These are old tech and don't expect top-notch dry performance out of them.
The harder rubber should get your good mileage though, but rubber softness (and thus performance) is inversely proportional to mileage.
There's a lot better stuff out there, but I'm sure you got a really good price on these.

These can't hold a candle to the RT615's, since the RT615's are almost a (dry) competition tire.

The siping should give you great rain performance though.

-Ted

FC3S Murray

01-29-2010, 08:12 AM

You get those wheels mounted yet? Pics!:willy_nilly:

Soon man..very soon. Just waiting on 1 center face to come back from powder coating.

don't expect top-notch dry performance out of them.
The harder rubber should get your good mileage though, but rubber softness (and thus performance) is inversely proportional to mileage.

That is the exact reason I bought them. I want some life out of these. As for grip I have read numerous reviews that said these out perform most UHP tires to include the BFGoodrich G-force sports, Nitto NT555's, Bridgestone Potenza Grids(crazy but found many reviews stating this) and Copper Zeon 2XS.

The only UHP tire that compared that I was up in the air with was the Yokohoma S.Drives....Falkens were cheaper at this outlet I went through so that made a my mind considering I "saved" 120.00.

I HOPE these FK452's do not dissapoint, if they do TRUST me evryone will hear about it.

I really wanted some Yokohoma ADVAN Neova AD08 but they were very very pricey.

FC3S Murray

01-29-2010, 08:55 AM

The FK452's are the old Falken GR-beta's?
I think they are...

-Ted

Actually these are the replcement for the old FK-451's. I guess they have came a long way since the 451's.

WE3RX7

01-29-2010, 10:25 PM

I was going back through your thread and didn't see if you posted it, but what size are your equips? I 17x? and what offset, just curious since I'm shopping wheels right now.

need RX7

01-29-2010, 10:34 PM

I was in Discount Tire today with a friend, getting tires for his pimp-mobile (84 Park Avenue), and I overheard the guy behind the counter recommend the FK452s to someone. It reminded me of this thread, and thus caused me to go off on an incredibly long tangent describing how much I like Work Equips :lol:. Looking forward to a review on those, I'm thinking about getting some myself. I have pretty much the same criteria as you; something that performs well, but still lasts long enough to be practical and doesn't cost an arm and a leg. Still lovin' the Equips btw :lol:.

FC3S Murray

01-30-2010, 09:44 AM

I was going back through your thread and didn't see if you posted it, but what size are your equips? I 17x? and what offset, just curious since I'm shopping wheels right now.

17x8 +29 17x9 +28, I wuld have liked +35 for a little more lip but these have plenty and will fit "hella flush":)

I was in Discount Tire today with a friend, getting tires for his pimp-mobile (84 Park Avenue), and I overheard the guy behind the counter recommend the FK452s to someone. It reminded me of this thread, and thus caused me to go off on an incredibly long tangent describing how much I like Work Equips . Looking forward to a review on those, I'm thinking about getting some myself. I have pretty much the same criteria as you; something that performs well, but still lasts long enough to be practical and doesn't cost an arm and a leg. Still lovin' the Equips btw .

Thank buddy! I hope they perfrom well and cool thing is once i get my final break-in mileage on my engine my tires will be broke in too:icon_tup:

TitaniumTT

01-30-2010, 11:22 AM

17x8 +29 17x9 +28, I wuld have liked +35 for a little more lip but these have plenty and will fit "hella flush":)

Higher number offset will result in a slightly less lip, but we're only talking about a few mm here. I'm running the x8 +35 and x9 +35 and they are a little more recessed in the wells (which is why I didn't have to roll any fenders) and they have a little less lip to them, but that's also kinda dependant on the spoke design as well.

I kinda want to try some small spacers to see what happens as they could be a little more flush. In reality though I'm gonna hold off until I can sport for some 17x8.5 and 9.5.

once i get my final break-in mileage on my engine my tires will be broke in too:icon_tup:

Sean, we need to talk about this :smilielol5:

FC3S Murray

01-31-2010, 02:21 PM

Higher number offset will result in a slightly less lip, but we're only talking about a few mm here.

hmm that is strange. I was looking at rotarybeat's Equips and he runs +35 and his have more lip. My works must have a slightly different lip design. His center caps are a different style as well. WORK must have did some changes through the years with the wheel type.

Sean, we need to talk about this

I know I know....if it wasn't for that damn V-Band issue of mine I would be damn near there. That put me down for the last month of nice weather....then I HAD to tinker with my bushings and wheels lol

I think it worked out since WOT tuning would have blowed on new tires with no break in :)

WE3RX7

01-31-2010, 09:38 PM

I'm so impatient for these wheels right now, lol...

Looking forward to seeing them finished up and on the car!

FC3S Murray

01-31-2010, 09:51 PM

I'm so impatient for these wheels right now, lol...

Looking forward to seeing them finished up and on the car!

YOU ARE!?:rofl: HELL I am going crazy!!! I am assembling them all tomorrow night then from there all I need to do is order my BC coilovers once the tax return gets in by mid Feb. I hate being patient and responsible....I could just buy the fuckers now but I like my penis attached to my body...NOT cut-off and in my wife's hand:o11:

If this fucking 20,000'' of snow doesn't melt the only pics you guys will get are in-garage shots.

WE3RX7

02-01-2010, 06:53 AM

Ha - understandable. We keep getting hit by snow too, its almost like mother nature doesn't want virginia to have weekends... snows on Friday and saturday enough to jack up your sunday and monday as well. Calling for more tomorrow and again this weekend. My garage is a MESS right now too so I can only have the FC in, the RX8 is getting frozen!

So we wont see pics of it on the car until mid/late Feb now? damn.....

FC3S Murray

02-01-2010, 07:11 AM

So we wont see pics of it on the car until mid/late Feb now? damn.....

Yep.......it blows but it will be here in no time

RETed

02-01-2010, 06:44 PM

That is the exact reason I bought them. I want some life out of these. As for grip I have read numerous reviews that said these out perform most UHP tires to include the BFGoodrich G-force sports, Nitto NT555's, Bridgestone Potenza Grids(crazy but found many reviews stating this) and Copper Zeon 2XS.

Have zero experience with the B.F. Goodrich stuff, as the only I have personally run was 1st gen Comp T/A's a LONG time ago...

The Nitto NT-555's are CRAP.
Dunno if you know this, but Nitto is the sister company of Toyo.
Toyo "hands down" all their old or second-tier technology to Nitto.
The "NT-555R" is an exception, as these are the old Nitto drag radials - same compound as the Toyo RA-1's.
I have no experience with the new NT-01's.

The Grid's are CRAP.
I've had these, and they are disappointing.
Looking at the prices in Japan, these are not top-tier tires.

Zero experience with Cooper and don't intend to try anything American made anytime soon...

Now, don't take my words personally.
I try to run the best tires on my cars.
I've run Toyo RA-1's and currently have Bridgestone S-03 Pole Positions.
I have a set of Yokohama Advan AD-07's in my room waiting to be mounted.
This gives you an idea of what I think are "good" tires.
All of these are either competition tires or top-tire tires at one time.

Other tires I have direct experience in the past...
Bridgestone RE-71's - best at the time, but super soft compound
Dunlop SP-8000's - liked them a lot for the price and dry performance, but not the best
Yokohama AVS intermediates - didn't care too much for them, but a lot of other people did; I like the Dunlop SP-8000's as a slight edge of the AVSi's
(Above are all discontinued.)
Micheline Pilot Sport SX - nice tire but really expensive!

-Ted

RETed

02-01-2010, 06:47 PM

hmm that is strange. I was looking at rotarybeat's Equips and he runs +35 and his have more lip. My works must have a slightly different lip design. His center caps are a different style as well. WORK must have did some changes through the years with the wheel type.

TTT is right - lower the number should give you more lip.

The only other thing I can think of is that one of you is running the "DDC" lip design?
Work offered the DDC lip back then - it's a funky design that countersunk the bolts into a curved outer lip.
The advantages of the DDC lip is that it was stronger, but it takes away from the deep-lip look.

-Ted

FC3S Murray

02-01-2010, 09:19 PM

TTT is right - lower the number should give you more lip.

The only other thing I can think of is that one of you is running the "DDC" lip design?
Work offered the DDC lip back then - it's a funky design that countersunk the bolts into a curved outer lip.
The advantages of the DDC lip is that it was stronger, but it takes away from the deep-lip look.

-Ted

Nope they are not counter sunk. I have seen that design online(look at black equips pic below). I was comparing some Work Equip pics on RBwheels today and there seems to be two slight different styles of the 5 straight spoke design(not the curved one resembling the Meisters). The "style" that Rotarybeat purchased has a slightly longer spoke design and a thinner lip "face" the bolts go against. My Equips have more lip "area" and the spokes seem slightly shorter.

Check out pictures...mine is the 1st , rotarybeat 2nd

Notice how rotarybeat's equips bolt heads are very close to the lip face edge.Our wheels use the same bolts. hmmmmm

FC3S Murray

02-01-2010, 09:23 PM

Have zero experience with the B.F. Goodrich stuff, as the only I have personally run was 1st gen Comp T/A's a LONG time ago...

The Nitto NT-555's are CRAP.
Dunno if you know this, but Nitto is the sister company of Toyo.
Toyo "hands down" all their old or second-tier technology to Nitto.
The "NT-555R" is an exception, as these are the old Nitto drag radials - same compound as the Toyo RA-1's.
I have no experience with the new NT-01's.

The Grid's are CRAP.
I've had these, and they are disappointing.
Looking at the prices in Japan, these are not top-tier tires.

Zero experience with Cooper and don't intend to try anything American made anytime soon...

Now, don't take my words personally.
I try to run the best tires on my cars.
I've run Toyo RA-1's and currently have Bridgestone S-03 Pole Positions.
I have a set of Yokohama Advan AD-07's in my room waiting to be mounted.
This gives you an idea of what I think are "good" tires.
All of these are either competition tires or top-tire tires at one time.

Other tires I have direct experience in the past...
Bridgestone RE-71's - best at the time, but super soft compound
Dunlop SP-8000's - liked them a lot for the price and dry performance, but not the best
Yokohama AVS intermediates - didn't care too much for them, but a lot of other people did; I like the Dunlop SP-8000's as a slight edge of the AVSi's
(Above are all discontinued.)
Micheline Pilot Sport SX - nice tire but really expensive!

-Ted

Thanks for the info man! Very appreciated

project86

02-01-2010, 10:36 PM

i really liked my nitto neogens. they were cheap and sticky. they held up pretty well too. i abused the piss out of them. keep in mind i was non turbo at the time lol. annndd thats the first set of performance tires ive owned. im lookin into the nitto nt-05s for my build now.

RETed

02-02-2010, 10:46 PM

I was comparing some Work Equip pics on RBwheels today and there seems to be two slight different styles of the 5 straight spoke design(not the curved one resembling the Meisters). The "style" that Rotarybeat purchased has a slightly longer spoke design and a thinner lip "face" the bolts go against. My Equips have more lip "area" and the spokes seem slightly shorter.

Check out pictures...mine is the 1st , rotarybeat 2nd

Notice how rotarybeat's equips bolt heads are very close to the lip face edge.Our wheels use the same bolts. hmmmmm

Ah, never saw those in a long time...
Yeah, the Work Equip model was redesigned at one point.
The 1st pic is an early version of the Equip.
The 2nd pic is a later (more popular / easily available) version of the Equip.

Side note, even the Work Meisters were redesigned at one point with the two versions slightly different looking.

-Ted

FC3S Murray

02-02-2010, 10:50 PM

Ah, never saw those in a long time...
Yeah, the Work Equip model was redesigned at one point.
The 1st pic is an early version of the Equip.
The 2nd pic is a later (more popular / easily available) version of the Equip.

Side note, even the Work Meisters were redesigned at one point with the two versions slightly different looking.

-Ted

Damn, I knew it! I would have liked the longer spoke ones BUT I can live with these rare original design. It will look good regardless. :icon_tup:

project86

02-08-2010, 12:39 PM

did you get your coilovers yet?

FC3S Murray

02-08-2010, 07:52 PM

Two weeks.

project86

02-08-2010, 08:42 PM

im ordering mine as soon as i get my tax money. ya!!!! oh and i found my camera. its in my tool box. i was shittin chickens man.

project86

02-12-2010, 02:32 PM

sean do you have your wheels mounted yet?

FC3S Murray

02-12-2010, 08:26 PM

lol nope not yet. I had to send back some bolts for my LAST WHEEL to VRWheels since they sent me the wrong size. I will be ordering the coilovers on Tues and putting the rubber on and balancing via Matt on next monday.

I am sooooooooo anxious!!!!

FC3S Murray

02-23-2010, 06:49 PM

UPDATE:

So this post may be a dick tease BUT I am still awaiting BC to ship my coilovers. I went through Gripmotorsports.com and Megan there has kept me up to date evryday until BC gets their shit together and gives me MY DAMN C.O's!

I did however get the skin put on my wheels. I really wish I would have researched some more in regards to WORK redesigning the Equips. I personally like the re-designed ones better BUT don't get me wrong...these things are f*cking sick in person. I just think the center 5 spoke is a wee bit on the small side(diameter) compared to the elongated spokes on the newer Equips.

Never-the-less
(please excuse the shitty phone-pic...my wife lost our camera)

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/wheelswrubber.jpg

I also purchased some MMR Rear Camber Adjusters.
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/mmr.jpg
I have almost been acting as a liaison for disgruntle past customers TO MMR due to these breaking. I have resolved some issues with MMR in regards to customer service and they have given me insight to improvements on the product due to customer reports. Keep in mind most breaks are from improper torque/installation.... I hope and time will tell :)

I will have pic's of the FC on the ground when I get my coilovers ASAP.

Next little project is installing AUX inj. :) :)

FC3S Murray

02-26-2010, 11:30 AM

So BC Racing contacted me and it looks like it is going to be a 2 1/2 week wait. The coilovers are on a pallet being flown from Japan as we speak. That is a 4-5 day process to them then a 4-5 day shipping time to me......sucks but hell, the weather is still shitty so I guess I am in no rush.

I have been doing much research on AUX injection and am just trying to get my shit together so when I order my kit I will have the correct nozzle size/support equipment.

I am undecided if I want to run 1 nozzle OR run 2 nozzles-1 in each
front and rear outboard runner of the UIM
If do go 1 nozzle I am having a hell of a time deciding where I want to mount it and what angle so it evenly distributes to both rotors.

I think the dual set-up would be sweet but I do believe it would be a bit overkill since I just want to run a small nozzle with a 50/50 mix to keep knock down and AIT temps safe.
I really do not plan on running monster amounts of boost, maybe 18 psi on the dyno just for shits and giggles BUT 15 psi on the street.

MMR camber links are installed and I have to say I really like the design. The adjustment nut is easily accessable and the machining/ clearances on this product are pretty damn impressive. Hopefully they last.

Max777

02-26-2010, 07:55 PM

You should have bought Stance coils... woulda been there a lot sooner and you = hella happy!

However, since you didn't, i hope all goes well, it was still an ok choice for suspension.

FC3S Murray

02-26-2010, 11:10 PM

Funny because I have heard that stance is not as nice as quality as BC. Either way I am just happy to finally own a pair. :)

TitaniumTT

02-27-2010, 01:21 AM

Meh, I'm happy with my stances. Be warned though, this might apply to the BC's, if your tires are sticky enough the rear trailing arm will flex enough on hard turns and chew into the housing on the C/O At idle there's a decent gap, but put enough load on that sucker..... bad things will happen :'(

Stance was the only budget C/O that I have ever seen shock dyno's for, and they were consistent, that's why I went the stance route.... that and Rishie got me a deal that I couldn't pass up with an extra set of springs :D

FC3S Murray

02-27-2010, 11:52 AM

Meh, I'm happy with my stances. Be warned though, this might apply to the BC's, if your tires are sticky enough the rear trailing arm will flex enough on hard turns and chew into the housing on the C/O At idle there's a decent gap, but put enough load on that sucker..... bad things will happen :'(

Good to know Brian, I will have to ask one of my buddies here in town who has some BC's installed on his FC. He drives it very hard and has had those C/O's for 3-4 years now.

MAN I am sorry to see all that rot under your FC....really blows. Knowing you though, you'll find a way to patch it up and make it look better then it came out of the factory. :icon_tup:

TitaniumTT

02-28-2010, 01:23 AM

Yeah, def ask him about it... it's serious hard cornering though. As in my tires were rubbing the heat shield on the muffler! That's alot of flex. I ALMOST went and swapped the rear swing arm bushings for the AWR bearing version to take car of it.

Thanks man, I'm around the corner, over the hump, and I'll have some pics up in my Diary Thread, lemme know.... I think I did the factory proud :rofl:

FC3S Murray

03-12-2010, 01:55 PM

..............I am losing my fucking mind! BC Racing contacted me today and said the coilovers won't even ship until Monday. I have been waiting a month...not cool.

However I have almost got my water injection research wrapped up and am pretty confident in what I want to run in my set-up.

The weather is getting very nice and I am losing my patience....I could be putting miles on the motOr:beatdeadhorse5::banghead::cuss::o10::66::36:

project86

03-15-2010, 10:40 PM

....i didnt know moter was spelled with an e.....:suspect:

FC3S Murray

03-16-2010, 01:34 PM

F. O.

project86

03-19-2010, 04:11 PM

F. O.

Sean im gonna ignore that... lucky for you. Im requiring you to let me know when you get your BCs so i can come over and drool on them.

FC3S Murray

03-20-2010, 05:37 PM

Found my damn camera so here are some pics in high qaulity:icon_tup::icon_tup:

Pic of the install of my Black Energy Suspension bushing kit and a Racing Beat Front sway bar. I installed all the bushings except for the rear lower contol arm WHICH worked out to my advantage since you CAN'T have the MMR rear camber adjusters installed unless you have the factory bushing installed OR a sperical bushing since polys will not budge causing binding issues

Gave me a chance to clean up down there too...................

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Picture004.jpg

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Picture002-1.jpg

** little tip here for anyone going to install E.S. Bushings for the rear sway bar endlink: You have to install the top bolt inboard-to-outborad or it will hit your body pinch weld
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Picture008-1.jpg

Here are the MMR rear camber adjusters installed on the car. They adjust ON the car btw......
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Picture001-1.jpg

Since I was in a polishing mood with the wheels my Mothers Alum Polish found its way to my compressor housing too :)
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Picture013.jpg

and the intercooler piping ( I need to start working on cleaning up the damn clutter in my engine bay)....
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Picture015.jpg

FC3S Murray

03-20-2010, 05:37 PM

Wheel Shots

closest "on the car" shots I can give you for now:)

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Picture005.jpg

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Picture006.jpg

some outside shots

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Picture007.jpg
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Picture009.jpg

Rear Wheel 17x9 +28
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Picture011.jpg

Front Wheel 17x8 +29
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Picture012.jpg

Think I should put them on the Wife's Rouge.....:lol:
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Picture010.jpg

Gregory Casimir

03-20-2010, 05:56 PM

^^^they actually look pretty dope on the rouge lol

project86

03-21-2010, 12:47 AM

i dig it

FC3S Murray

03-25-2010, 09:39 PM

A little tease for everybody:):icon_tup:

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Picture025.jpg

BC's came in today, I have them installed but am dialing in the FC right now. Pics and review of coilovers and the FC ON THE GROUND will be very very soon

need RX7

03-25-2010, 09:57 PM

:drool:

Looks so good. :icon_tup::icon_tup:

TitaniumTT

03-25-2010, 09:57 PM

I need a towel.

So HOT Sean, looks fucking AMAZING. Still LOVE that color.

chibikougan

03-26-2010, 09:03 AM

Oooh you will have to bring it out Saturday and let me touch you. I mean it! Damnit I mean your car! Haha

FC3S Murray

03-30-2010, 06:09 PM

Finally an update:

So I figure I will start off with giving a small review so far on the BC Racing type BR coilovers......these things:
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Picture016-1.jpg

I am very impressed by the qaulity especially since they are made in Taiwan. The coilovers came with a 1 year warrenty, the necessary adjustment tools, some product info and a SWEET decal! The whole assembly in general was solid and the craftsmanship impressive, BEST part was the include a brake line clip:icon_tup:

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Picture021.jpg
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Picture019.jpg

Camber plates very nice BUT they peg out at -1.5 degrees because of the allen bolts hitting the bulkhead. The Dampner is fully adjustable with 30 settings.
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Picture018-1.jpg
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Picture020.jpg

The install on the car was easy and they came preloaded. I would say judging from when I first put the FC on the ground, the ride hieght was about stock...maybe slightly lower. They adjust just like any other coilover and I will say that the threaded cylinder turned easily IF you loosen the rear and front lower arm bolts.
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Picture023.jpg

Total time to install and adjust the ride hieght accordenly was around 4 hours. I used a digital vernier caliper to measure the distance from the bottom lock ring to the small preload lock ring. This ensured linear drop. I DID have to drop the passenger front a 1/2 inch more then the drivers side though to get equal fender gap.

I also have MAXED out my MMR Rear Camber adjusters(bolt fully tightened and bottomed out)) and I am in the -1.2 degree camber in the rear.

FC3S Murray

03-30-2010, 06:20 PM

Now on to my pics of the car!!

Took her out today to make sure everything was good after the winter suspension overhaul. I ended up leaving about 3/4 inch gap between the fender and tire( all you flush lovers back off:)) My reasoning is my damnper settings are semi-soft, 12 clicks past soft and these roads here SUCK ASS. Second reason I went with that ride height was with 235's up front are BEEFY and with my camber plates maxed, I wouldn't get much of a tuck....actually none at all. My tire would chew the shit out of my pretty fender and I dont want that:leaving:.

Anyway I had no issues except for the annoying smell of my new turbo blanket burning up:cuss:.....headache from the fumes. No clunks, no bushing noise, nothing which is rare from my constantly-breaking POS FC.

Here are the pics, enjoy....

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Picture009-1.jpg

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Picture004-1.jpg

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Picture005-1.jpg

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Picture014.jpg

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Picture013-1.jpg

FC3S Murray

03-30-2010, 06:21 PM

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Picture015-1.jpg

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Picture010-1.jpg

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Picture007-1.jpg

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Picture016.jpg

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Picture006-1.jpg

FC3S Murray

03-30-2010, 06:23 PM

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Picture008-2.jpg

I think it is pretty "flush":icon_tup:

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Picture011-1.jpg

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Picture012-1.jpg

FC3S Murray

03-30-2010, 06:25 PM

Nothing new in the interior yet....just cleaned it up from sitting for 6 months

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Picture018.jpg

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Picture017.jpg

Engine bay with new black turbo blanket and SOON water injection:driving:

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Picture001-2.jpg

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Picture002-2.jpg

Overall I am happy with the results of both my wheels and suspension. That was a shit load of work but worth it. 900 miles to go on break in and the real fun begins!

need RX7

03-30-2010, 06:43 PM

I love it. Looks awesome. :icon_tup:

TitaniumTT

03-30-2010, 08:08 PM

Damn Sean, probably the best looking, cleanest FC I've ever seen. You should be very proud..... DAYUM.

Those are 17x8,9 +28 F&R right? Making me want a set of 5mm spacers.

RETed

03-30-2010, 09:03 PM

Camber plates very nice BUT they peg out at -1.5 degrees because of the allen bolts hitting the bulkhead.

Did you move the allen bolts around?
I noticed that in your pic there's extra holes in the "center" of the plate - this is typical of most camber plates.
You can remove the bolts from the "top" and reinsert them in the lower positions, allowing you the get more adjustment.
Unless the sliding camber block is hitting something?

-Ted

TitaniumTT

03-30-2010, 09:28 PM

Ted's right, exact same thing with my c/o's as well. There shouldn't be anything inside the tower that will limit you to 1.5. IIRC I'm running about -3 with a little more to go

FC3S Murray

03-30-2010, 09:32 PM

I love it. Looks awesome. :icon_tup:

Thank you! I do too.

Damn Sean, probably the best looking, cleanest FC I've ever seen. You should be very proud..... DAYUM.

Those are 17x8,9 +28 F&R right? Making me want a set of 5mm spacers.

Thanks Brian, coming from Mr. OCD himself that means a lot :)

Go for the spacers.

Did you move the allen bolts around?
I noticed that in your pic there's extra holes in the "center" of the plate - this is typical of most camber plates.
You can remove the bolts from the "top" and reinsert them in the lower positions, allowing you the get more adjustment.
Unless the sliding camber block is hitting something?

Thanks Ted!!! I didn't even notice that.

project86

03-31-2010, 01:04 AM

ya... i guess it looks alright....:suspect:

hhhaahahaha who am i kidding that looks way good . i like the equips alot better than the ssrs. good pickin. now i just nee to get mine on the road

TitaniumTT

03-31-2010, 08:03 AM

Yeah you do, an we need more hi-res pics of your car, something that shows the pearl more damnit

project86

03-31-2010, 06:23 PM

i know!!! i dont know why the camera doesnt really pick up the pearl that well... hm......

djmtsu

03-31-2010, 06:43 PM

Looking VERY good man!

Now, quit being a pussy and drive that thing to DGRRX!!!!!

Seriously, what are you chicken?

FC3S Murray

03-31-2010, 08:20 PM

Looking VERY good man!

Now, quit being a pussy and drive that thing to DGRRX!!!!!

Seriously, what are you chicken?

:rofl: yeah that is a pipe dream.

TitaniumTT

03-31-2010, 08:49 PM

pssssh, if you drove to DGRRX at least you'd have your engine broken in sometime during 2010 ;)

FC3S Murray

03-31-2010, 10:02 PM

pssssh, if you drove to DGRRX at least you'd have your engine broken in sometime during 2010 ;)

:rofl: F you brian ;) LOL!

TitaniumTT

03-31-2010, 10:11 PM

:smilielol5: yeah yeah.... I'm the idiot that would drive 1-2 hundred miles a night around the state just to break in an engine in a week to make a dyno so I could auto-x the next day..... then there was the one week rebuild :rofl:

FC3S Murray

04-01-2010, 08:45 AM

Hey I have a little concern with my oil pressure:
I have my idle set at 900 rpm and upon start up I have extremely high oil pressure due to running a FD regulator. Anyway when it settles at 160* oil temp the pressure is about 40 psi. After driving around and getting the oil temps around 175-180 my mechanical aftermarket Oil pressure gauges shows about 11-12 psi at idle........

This seems low. If I barely rev the rpm up to 1K(which my idle is set there now) it sits at about 17-18 psi,which is within factory spec BUT thats at 1k NOT 800 rpm.

I know what the front o-ring symptoms are and this doesn't seem like it because when I rev and drive the car i get upwards of 90 psi around 4k. 0-ring symptoms are bleed out at 40 psi and doesn't get any higher with revs.

My concern is it being that low and how low will it register when I have a long time frame of WOT pulls and get the oil temps even higher. Right now I am running Castrol GTX 10w-30. I will go to 20W-50 Mobil 1 syntheic when break in is complete.

I didnt shim the front cover regulator because I didn't know you were supposed to with the FD regulator. The Oil pump was nin perfect shape.

Any ideas? I have heard oil pressure at idle is not a big concern but I NEVER like low pressure regardless.

TitaniumTT

04-01-2010, 09:00 AM

Shimming the bypass with an FD reg is only going to keep the bypass from dumping oil when the pressure gets too high. Shimming the reg brings the point where the bypass will bypass higher, it does nothing for lower pressures. Plus, FWIW, I am dropping my oil pan front cover this weekend to replace a squeezed out o-ring, I think my front cover is warped as this is the second time it's happened, and I am pulling my shims OUT. I have seen upwards of 125psi oil pressure and that's just way to high. It doesn't need to be there and is doing more damage than good in my eyes.

While your pressure is low, it's enough to raise an eyebrow but noting out of the ordinary. Did you modify any of the oil passages? Are you sure the OP was within spec? They may LOOK good, but the tolerances on them are so eff'ing tight that just a little wear will show low pressure. My pump was out of spec but it was only by a few thou, and I was in a pinch so I tossed it in... My pressure does the same thing as yours down low. When I pull my front cover I'm going to play musical oil pump parts to see if I can get a pump that falls within spec. I have like a dozen pumps but only one with the o-ring groove machined in it.

Sadly, the only thing to do is pull the front cover BUT I don't think you're at that point. I would honestly just wait and see what the bump in viscosity does. A new oil pump might be in order. Did you clean up any of the passages?

FC3S Murray

04-01-2010, 10:22 AM

project86

04-01-2010, 10:37 AM

i would see if you could go to o shittys ( orielys) and grab a cheap ass oil pressure gauge and see if it reads any different. id hate to see you lose another motEr sean.

WE3RX7

04-01-2010, 10:38 AM

break in an engine in a week to make a dyno so I could auto-x the next day..... then there was the one week rebuild :rofl:

Possbily a connection :coolgleamA::rofl:

FC3S Murray

04-01-2010, 11:28 AM

No worries Kyle, I wont be rodding it if this pressure doesnt go up.

I called mazdatrix and brianstormed with them. I did only put the teflon ring with halomar on the front cover casting, this is what Mazdatrix's rebuild video called for if you have the S5 type o-ring casting. They instructed leave the o-ring out.

Mazdatrix and I both agree this oil pressure problem is not a o-ring issue due to still getting higher pressure up in the higher rpm range BUT instead be a PUMP issue.

This figures since I swapped out the other pump from that last shit-ass motor that DID get 30 psi constantly at idle........that is what I get for visually comparing scars, BUT dammit this one I have in my motor is almost perfect.. ic ouldnt even catch a finger nail on any of the slightly visible valleys!

I mean seriously..I get upwards of 35-38 psi at 1400 rpm and it sky rockets as I climb in rpm.

What is the highest oil pressure value you guys get above 4K with the FD regulator @ normal oil operating temps? I am going to see what my highest value is once the motor is warm later today.

TitaniumTT

04-01-2010, 11:30 AM

No I did not modify any of the oil passages. Cleaned them out really well. Used halomar to seal the pump. The pump I used was actually in better shape, I didnt measure the specs but this pump had far less visual scars then the last oil pump. New pump actually has very little to no visual scaring.

I really hate pulling the front cover........

Just becuase there is no visible scarring doesn't mean that it's within spec. The one that I'm using right now looked brandy new, but it was out by a few thou. Yeah, pulling the FC sucks, especially with the engine still in the car. Is your oil pan studded? Be glad if it isn't

Possbily a connection :coolgleamA::rofl:

Yeah, that one week rebuild was the one with the sticky corner seal......... bastard ;)

FC3S Murray

04-01-2010, 12:10 PM

OK I found my spec notes on all my internal parts. I thought I didn't spec out my oil pump BUT i did lol...it was all a blur last summer trying to squeeze in engine time in with the new house and family.

Anyway: Between lobe measurement was .003 , FSM says between .0012-.0047

Between body and outer rotor: .009 , FSM says .0079-.0098

So it is good, not perfect BUT good. I keep researching standard oil pressure and I keep coming across 15psi (RETed). The FSM only states standard oil pressure at 3K...no idle. WTF lol? I thought i found factory oil pressure in the fsm......hmmm?

I am not too worried since it now reads 17-18 psi @ 1K. I will watch it though.

project86

04-01-2010, 01:56 PM

hmmm very curious....it does seem that the op at idle isnt as pertinent as would be under wot or normal driving conditions. and not that i expected you to but im glad you dont assume anything when it comes to shit like that... as we all know .. ASSUMING=THE MOTHER OF ALL FUK UPS!

FC3S Murray

04-01-2010, 09:04 PM

Well I just got back from a little drive:

at 165* F oil temp I get 79/80 psi at 3k rpm, 90 psi at 5500 rpm and 18 psi at 950 idle rpm

At 175/180*F oil temp I get 75 psi at 3K, 85-87 psi at 5500 rpm and 12-14 psi at 950 idle rpm

I bumped my idle to 1050 rpm and now she sits at 20 psi @ 180*F and 25 psi @ 160* F.

It still bothers me BUT at least my 3K test via the FSM is within spec and anything higher rpm is GREAT!

I do also wonder if this 10W-30 is a little broken down/fuel saturated from 560 miles of very rich AFR's and a shit load of sitting idle time on it(winter start ups). It still is somewhat viscous but i know our oil gets "fuely" over time.

As for my coilovers: they are doing great! I love the ride!!! I do have a slight clunk in the rear when the car gets tossed side to side from road bumps AND on sudden clutch release. My subframe looks mighty close to my diff and I wonder if these MMR adjusters clunk a little since the aluminum block doesnt fit in real snug in the trailer arm.

RETed

04-02-2010, 12:08 AM

Anything above 10psi is okay.
If it starts dropping under that, I'd worry.

Here's the problem...
Unless you have a pressure gauge that is "certified" for low psi in the 5...10...15psi range, your gauge is probably not that accurate that low.
As a rule, gauges are most accurate in the middle of their range...
So a 0 - 100psi pressure gauge is most accurate around 50psi.
Trying to get a 0 - 100psi pressure gauge to read accurate down to the 5 - 15psi range is just not reasonable.

Yes, your oil is diluted from all that rich running.
Your oil pressure is going to go up.
How much is it going up? I doubt it's going to be much...
I'd be surprised if it goes up from 10psi to 15psi.
It doesn't hurt, and changing oil isn't that much of a big deal.

Now, going from a 10W30 to 20W50 *is* going to be much more of a difference.
You're basically doubling the viscocity of the oil, and that's going to change your numbers significantly.

I think you're being a little paranoid about the oil pressure, but, on the flip side, I don't blame you.
I've been through an OPR failure and an o-ring failure, and I know what the symptoms look like - you're going to see a significant drop in *max* oil pressure at higher revs; idle oil pressure is practically "0".
Remember, the engine is under very little load at idle - 10psi doesn't sound like much, but it's enough to keep everything lubed and happy.
An engine revving under load at 3k+ RPM's is going to fail a lot faster when you cut the oil pressure in half versus at idle.
Now, I'm not talking about catastrophic oil pressure loss like...NO oil pressure, which is obvious the engine is going to kill itself in short time no matter under what conditions, but I hope you get the point of this long reply... :)

-Ted

project86

04-02-2010, 01:05 AM

i like long technical replies :) they make me lubed and happy... i mean happy..

FC3S Murray

04-02-2010, 07:20 AM

Anything above 10psi is okay.
If it starts dropping under that, I'd worry.

Here's the problem...
Unless you have a pressure gauge that is "certified" for low psi in the 5...10...15psi range, your gauge is probably not that accurate that low.
As a rule, gauges are most accurate in the middle of their range...
So a 0 - 100psi pressure gauge is most accurate around 50psi.
Trying to get a 0 - 100psi pressure gauge to read accurate down to the 5 - 15psi range is just not reasonable.

Yeah I am running prosport gauges...they are nice qaulity BUT I am pretty sure their low range is not as accurate as I would like and I doubt they are as accurate as a 150.00 Greddy gauge. Can't complian for a 50.00$ gauge though.

Yes, your oil is diluted from all that rich running.
Your oil pressure is going to go up.
How much is it going up? I doubt it's going to be much...
I'd be surprised if it goes up from 10psi to 15psi.
It doesn't hurt, and changing oil isn't that much of a big deal.

Now, going from a 10W30 to 20W50 *is* going to be much more of a difference.
You're basically doubling the viscocity of the oil, and that's going to change your numbers significantly.

That is what I hope for. My idle will never drop beyond 1050 rpm so I think the pressure will be there EVEN if I have a long period of WOT pulls and get that oil thinner

I think you're being a little paranoid about the oil pressure, but, on the flip side, I don't blame you.
I've been through an OPR failure and an o-ring failure, and I know what the symptoms look like - you're going to see a significant drop in *max* oil pressure at higher revs; idle oil pressure is practically "0".
Remember, the engine is under very little load at idle - 10psi doesn't sound like much, but it's enough to keep everything lubed and happy.
An engine revving under load at 3k+ RPM's is going to fail a lot faster when you cut the oil pressure in half versus at idle.
Now, I'm not talking about catastrophic oil pressure loss like...NO oil pressure, which is obvious the engine is going to kill itself in short time no matter under what conditions, but I hope you get the point of this long reply... :)

-Ted

Thanks man and I am glad you understand my parinoid reasoning. I am keeping in mind the "golden" rule of 10 psi for evry 1000rpm and I am DEFINITELY getting that! :)

Thanks for the encouraging post man.

FC3S Murray

04-02-2010, 07:22 AM

i like long technical replies :) they make me lubed and happy... i mean happy..

.......you must have been lubing yourself up last night? No other reason for you to be up that late last night texting lol:rofl:

RETed

04-02-2010, 09:04 AM

Yeah I am running prosport gauges...they are nice qaulity BUT I am pretty sure their low range is not as accurate as I would like and I doubt they are as accurate as a 150.00 Greddy gauge. Can't complian for a 50.00$ gauge though.

Even if the GReddy stuff costs more, don't expect better accuracy.
My rule about the gauge accuracy holds true for all gauges unless you can show me a certified accuracy certificate.
If you ever have experience with any scientific meters for biological / chemical experiments, you'd know what I mean. :)
With accuracy comes price; if you want truly accurate pressure gauge from 0 - 100psi, with, let's say + or - 1psi error range, I would expect it to cost closer to $1,000 when it's all said and done with. :o

-Ted

project86

04-02-2010, 01:09 PM

.......you must have been lubing yourself up last night? No other reason for you to be up that late last night texting lol:rofl:

ha! i get off work late. and i was steering wheel shoping!

Max777

04-02-2010, 08:05 PM

Max approved!

chibikougan

04-03-2010, 11:11 AM

Ordered my Mallory and pressure regulator. Got 2 weeks to get her going for Test and Tune..:o10:

FC3S Murray

04-04-2010, 08:35 AM

better get on it bro lol.

JShiz

04-05-2010, 11:51 PM

Your car looks amazing. Almost makes me want to go out and get and FC and start doing work.

MaczPayne

04-06-2010, 12:20 AM

Always an inspiration :)

FC3S Murray

04-06-2010, 07:58 AM

Your car looks amazing. Almost makes me want to go out and get and FC and start doing work.

Always an inspiration

Thanks guys, that keeps me motivated.:icon_tup:

WhiteNA1

04-08-2010, 10:28 PM

project86

04-09-2010, 12:09 AM

FC3S Murray

04-09-2010, 12:47 PM

Personally I think its not that nice. I mean come on. It still has weird 80's taillights and triangles that spin under the hood? I think you should give up on it and move on. See if you can sell it in your local autotrader or better yet try craigslist and list it for cheap and MOVE on. Try a real car next time. Like maybe a NSX? I think there might even be one for sale locally for you to snatch up and make cherry. Atleast you could drive it daily and not worry about spinning triangles popping through your hood. Anyways good luck with the sale. I would maybe....... maybe give you $500 for it if it runs.

edit; JK I think you have probably the nicest, most attention to detail, car in the area. Serious. Good job Sean. Oh and sell that beater NSX for me.

Lol you son-of-a-bitch John! I am glad to see you have wondered into a forum of vehicles that don't have a giant "H" on the hood! :001_005:

Thanks for the kind words buddy, that means a lot coming from one of the guys who inspired me AND got me into the car scene back in the old days. Fuck I was like 13 when that shit happened lol.

I HATE to see the NSX at that dealership BUT I hope you get it sold so you can get that EK race car up to spec.

BTW for the Forums members: This dude is one of the best drivers in Montana period! Watching him hand a 2007 Porsche GT2 it ass at Lewistown in 2007 in his near stock NSX was a sight to be seen. Good shit:icon_tup:

MaczPayne

04-09-2010, 06:39 PM

That was a good roast, hah

FC3S Murray

04-10-2010, 10:55 PM

Here is that video of John playing with that Porsche

This was back in 2007 when I spun a rotor bearing after about 3 hot laps.....I was pissed but it was still fun. You see a buddy and I switch seats later in the video...shortley after the roll off the line I lose all power in the famous 3rd gear pull. I had to push the car off the track and all...soo much fun lol.

<object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/bsvASc-ORhk&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/bsvASc-ORhk&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>

project86

04-10-2010, 11:12 PM

that looks like way too much fun.... i wanna go as soon as my car is done :)

WhiteNA1

04-15-2010, 08:56 PM

ahhhhh mixed feelings watching that. Little sick to my stomach almost a tear in my eye and goose bumps on my arms till I lol'd at that weird bald dude? I almost never want to see it again. :(.......

nuther edit... Gawwwwwd I just wanna go pick it up and put my suspension back on it and take it for a long drive. Sometimes I think to myself, "how could I ever let it go?". Its sorta hard. Did not think it would be.

peace out. enjoy your ride.

JShiz

04-15-2010, 10:29 PM

That vid was awesome. And that NSX chewed up the porsche

project86

04-15-2010, 10:38 PM

FC3S Murray

04-16-2010, 05:46 PM

Update:

So I FINALLY finished installing my water injection system. I took my time since the weather up here turned to shit last week and I find rushing never does any good.

The kit is from Snow Performance and is the Stage 1 Boost Cooler. Kit comes with everything you need to include 220 psi pump, nozzle, water jug, activation LED, fluid low-level sensor with LED, mounting hardware, water lines, sealant, electrical fittings/crimps/eyelets...I mean they dont mess around, you get EVERYTHING you need for install. GREAT customer service too!:icon_tup:

I on the other hand went a different route and wanted 2 nozzles at smaller sizes that would eqaul the proper size for my 50/50 meth/water mix SO they would atomize even better (plus it looks kick ass). My total nozzle size is 375ml/min and 175ml/min = 550 ml/min of 50/50 mix. I originally was going to go only water so I had 2 175ml/min nozzles ordered BUT after much more reading and research (Howard Coleman is the man!), a 50/50 mix seems to be the most beneficial for performance AND knock safety.

on to the install pics:

I mounted the pump and the fluid container behind my passenger seat due to engine bay space limitations.
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Picture037.jpg

I routed the water lines under the carpet by the passenger seat and up through the main harness firewall grommet, then securing to the firewall pinch weld with some 1/4 inch clamps and bolt head caps. I had to wrap the line with teflon tape to prevent chaffing on the edge of the pinch weld.
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Picture030.jpg

Mounted the boost sensor and relay by the brake booster. Snow recommend that you do not bolt boost sensor to the engine bay due to possibly distorting the diaphram SO I ended up using a zip tie and some .020'' safety wire to secure it.
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Picture031.jpg

I did have to order 2 aluminum bungs to weld into my intercooler piping (not in kit)
Here are the 2 nozzles.......
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Picture035.jpg
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Picture036.jpg

I am very happy on where I located the 2 L.E.D.'s! I ended up mounting them on the gauge dash bezel. Green is activation light and orange is the low lfluid level. They are both very visible from the drivers seat.
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Picture032.jpg
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Picture033.jpg

I had to test the pump after install and it works GREAT. The atomization is VERY fine and I would of had video but I was short handed. The kit was a great price and I CAN"T WAIT to see it perform once I finish break in.

...I need to hit the road soon...lol

FC3S Murray

05-24-2010, 04:13 PM

Well I am at 1600 miles and I started doing some boost AFR tuning up to about 7 psi. HARD as SHIT to tune when your WG spring opens at 14.5 psi lol.

I was going to wait until 2000 miles to do WOT tuning but I have probably heat cycled that motor since last August about 40 times.....no joke.

I tell you what my Water/Methonal inj does some wonders on the intake temps.......I hit 9 psi last night and my water/meth kicked on for about 2 seconds.....AIT was 32*C and it dropped to 18*C and stayed there for a good 3-4 mins after the spray.

I will start tuning with project86 as my laptop monitor as soon as this damn weather clears up. For now I will check the spark plugs and do a compression check.

stay tuned

project86

05-25-2010, 12:32 PM

damn my impatience on a car thats not even mine...

FC3S Murray

05-26-2010, 09:43 PM

BAD NEWS.......

Went out today with Kyle(Project86) and did some WOT tuning for 3 hours straight. Did about 20 3rd/4th gear pulls and got my AFR down to 11.0:1 -11.2:1 AFR at 15psi with my 50/50 inj system working great the whole time.

IGL was 11, IGT split was 10, highest knock value logged for the day was 23 in midrange.....at 15 psi and above 5000 rpm the knock values were 3 to 8 sometimes as low as 2.

NEEDLESS to say it was a conservative tune and felt very strong.

Anyway after our 2.5 hours of WOT highway tuning we headed back home to refill the AUX inj tank. Then We decided to get some video of some WOT pulls for the forums.....

We ended up doing a 1st-2nd-3rd gear pull and I CRACKED MY FUCKING FRONT IRON !!

I actually laid off in 3rd gear at about 6000rpm and noticed a big cloud of blue smoke behind me pouring out my ass end......I glanced at my oil pressure and it was slowly lowering as I blipped the throttle. SO I cut the engine off and pulled into a parking lot that was very near.........HAD SMOKE coming out from under the hood SO I grabbed a fire extinguisher and THANK GOD no fire...just smoke. OIL WAS EVRYWHERE.......and after a quick scan of the engine bay HOPING that a turbo oil line popped off it hit like a brick and I thought to my self, "check the front iron"........sure as shit I saw the crack plain as day......
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Picture045.jpg

As the motor sits now.....OIL everywhere.......tried cleaning most up SHITTY!!
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Picture047.jpg

GOOD NEWS IS Kyle got some video of it being FAST before she broke....he will post it later tonight.:banghead:

At this point I do not know what to do........I am undecided if I want to part the car out or sell it in whole. I have ZERO time for this now and really just want it gone right now. I need to sit and think for a while.......:icon_tdown:

project86

05-26-2010, 10:05 PM

Here is the link to the video since i couldnt figure out how to just post the vid. http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=1270490935178&oid=114088401944294&saved#!/video/video.php?v=1270488615120&oid=114088401944294

TitaniumTT

05-26-2010, 10:08 PM

Rotary Inspired

05-26-2010, 10:16 PM

Dont sweat it man. I have been there. Good news is you only need a new plate. Just take your time and rebuild it.

Are you running any ignition amplifiers? I can look it up but which ECU? Just curious.

Last time I broke my plate was due to a misfire (overly rich due to someone --me-- forgetting to set the rev limiter back.)

Do you have the run logged?

project86

05-26-2010, 10:23 PM

need RX7

05-26-2010, 10:32 PM

Ah man, no way :(. Really sorry to hear about that. I hope you change your mind on selling it or parting out, but I can understand the frustration you're having with it.

I think you should take Mr. Spoolin' up on his offer. Shipping an engine isn't as expensive as you'd think :). When I bought my short block, the shipping charge was $105 from SC to MI with Yellow Freight.

chibikougan

05-27-2010, 09:45 AM

:cuss:

RETed

05-27-2010, 10:57 AM

Sorry for not digging up the info, but...

Was that an S4 or S5 front iron?

-Ted

FC3S Murray

05-27-2010, 12:29 PM

Damn Sean..... Sorry to hear that man. WTF caused it? Got the datalogs? PFC's are not known for fluky ign leading to cracked irons.

Buy an iron, send me the keg and the new iron and I'll put an engine together for ya before you sell that car. If you so much as mention "sale" or "part out" I will personally come out to you and stuff one of those intercooler pipes up your ass, then through a turbo at your face, and leave with your Works

Kyle - post it on youtube, some of us older gents don't bother with that teeny bopper facebook crap ;)

Thanks dude but I am at my final straw with the good old rotary. I am going to part out all the rotary components and this may sting a bit.............but I am dropping in an LSx motor. I am already looking at the LS3 crate motor through a Chev buddy BUT I have to research if it is a common swapped compared to the LS2.

A part of me is bummed BUT a new spark of interest has started with the thought of a new platform.

I have TOO much work into the body/chasis/suspension and wheels to get rid of this car that has been in my life for 8 years.

Granted this project will no doubt take 2 years or more since my family comes first and or second child on the way makes that timeline maybe even longer.

I HAVE THOUGHT about another plate but I imagine it will crack again. My logs showed low LOW knock and AFRs all 11.0-11.2:1. I have an HKS Twin Power so my IGN system was firing pretty hot. I think the shift from 2nd gear to 3rd was such an abrupt power transfer that it just caused the motor to twist. FUCK it makes me mad! You go from 20+ WOT pulls on the highway in 3rd and 4th.....all temps great..wtr 82*C AIR 22*C oil temp 180*F and the motor doesnt give BUT you do a quick burst through the gears and CRACK lol.

Sorry for not digging up the info, but...

Was that an S4 or S5 front iron?

it was a S5 front Iron Ted. I mean what else could I use that is thicker?

:cuss:

OH believe me Ransom......I am very discouraged

Ah man, no way . Really sorry to hear about that. I hope you change your mind on selling it or parting out, but I can understand the frustration you're having with it.

I think you should take Mr. Spoolin' up on his offer. Shipping an engine isn't as expensive as you'd think . When I bought my short block, the shipping charge was $105 from SC to MI with Yellow Freight.
__________________

Thanks dude and I thought about hitting Brian up but he has enough on his plate PLUS Where do I go from here.........it was a S5 front plate so I guess I have to stud it. I should have just went with the REW.

Flash

05-27-2010, 01:39 PM

Man, that sucks. I've been following your project for a while and I never expected this. At least you can say you went for the gusto. Most people just live with 140hp corollas having never ridden in a car with super-car speeds, let alone build one. I know the out come sucks but I can definitely appreciate you sharing your experiences with the rest of us, 'cause I know I learned something.

I'm sure you'll be able to find a good motor that'll be as fun or more than what you have.

PS, I can't remember if you had installed your new coilovers... review vs your shocks/springs?

FC3S Murray

05-27-2010, 01:59 PM

Thanks for your words Flash, you are the 3rd person to say that to me in regards to going big. Haha the only part that blows is I never got to bear fruit for long :).

Man my head is spinning with what to do.

Lets hear it guys............

infernosg

05-27-2010, 02:30 PM

Man my head is spinning with what to do.

Lets hear it guys............
Pricey, but interesting nonetheless: http://www.h1v8.com/

I'e been (silently) following your build over here. I can truly say you have one of my favorite RX-7's and that's saying a lot because I usually don't like S4's. It really is too bad about your luck.

TitaniumTT

05-27-2010, 09:33 PM

ah haha you so funny Brian. FYI its a good way to keep in touch with ppl... :cuss:

Fuck that noise. Anyone that I want to be able to get in touch with me knows how to, and I like it that way.

Thanks dude but I am at my final straw with the good old rotary. I am going to part out all the rotary components and this may sting a bit.............but I am dropping in an LSx motor. I am already looking at the LS3 crate motor through a Chev buddy BUT I have to research if it is a common swapped compared to the LS2.

Dude, I will kill you. That is all

With as clean as you've got your car now, it'll take you YEARS to get it to that level with any type of piston engine swap. Having just been thoroughly involved in an LS1 swap I can tell you that to get a clean engine bay and a good cooling system, it's going to take a TON of fabrication and you're going to need to re-spray your bay...... Kyle :suspect: so that may not be that big a deal actually.

A part of me is bummed BUT a new spark of interest has started with the thought of a new platform.

Fuck that noise.

I have TOO much work into the body/chasis/suspension and wheels to get rid of this car that has been in my life for 8 years.

Damn right, that's good to hear

Granted this project will no doubt take 2 years or more since my family comes first and or second child on the way makes that timeline maybe even longer.

Fuck that noise man, seriously, lets work something out so you can drive the fucking beast this year.

I HAVE THOUGHT about another plate but I imagine it will crack again. My logs showed low LOW knock and AFRs all 11.0-11.2:1. I have an HKS Twin Power so my IGN system was firing pretty hot. I think the shift from 2nd gear to 3rd was such an abrupt power transfer that it just caused the motor to twist. FUCK it makes me mad! You go from 20+ WOT pulls on the highway in 3rd and 4th.....all temps great..wtr 82*C AIR 22*C oil temp 180*F and the motor doesnt give BUT you do a quick burst through the gears and CRACK lol.

Something else is amiss and I'm not sure what it is

What's your oil pump feel like? What are your oil PSI's? Your AFR's are toooooo rich for my likings and the twin fire might have done some funky things. Is that a re-spark system? If so that could've been your problem right there. I'm a big fan of inductive sparks.

What kind of HP/Tq are you expecting? I don't think you're at the level where pinning is really even thought of as needed. I think something else is going on. Cryo may be the answer for you.

it was a S5 front Iron Ted. I mean what else could I use that is thicker?

I don't think you need something thicker, I think there's some other wierd shit going on.

Thanks dude and I thought about hitting Brian up but he has enough on his plate PLUS Where do I go from here.........it was a S5 front plate so I guess I have to stud it. I should have just went with the REW.

Dude, if you set the engine up right, me rebuilding wouldn't take very long at all AND I can get it cryo'ed. Seriously Sean, I'll be able to get your engine here and back to you in a matter of days depending on the cryo stuff. I would without a doubt tell you to rebuild this engine, swap the ignition, lean it out a little, maybe swap out some mounts and maybe a clutch and run it. You've got too much into making a CLEAN as hell engine bay to ditch it all and start all over and not enjoy the car for a few years.... fuck that.

Thanks for your words Flash, you are the 3rd person to say that to me in regards to going big. Haha the only part that blows is I never got to bear fruit for long :).

You went big and something strange went wrong. That shouldn't have happened I'm telling ya man, I don't think you're at the plate cracking tq levels yet. Lets get her back

Man my head is spinning with what to do.

Lets hear it guys............

I told you what to do, PM me if you wanna work something out.

Pricey, but interesting nonetheless: http://www.h1v8.com/

Fuck that, 245ft/lbs of torque? That's laughable. High revs and weight yeah, but no real power to brag about.

RETed

05-28-2010, 01:38 AM

Did I miss the part about the EGT (gauge)?

-Ted

TitaniumTT

05-28-2010, 05:22 AM

No, we're still wainting on the logs

FC3S Murray

05-28-2010, 11:11 AM

In regards to the EGT's: They are not linked to my Dtadlogit....they will not interface with the damn thing. They are simply stand alones units. Kyle witnessed the EGt temps on earlier 2/3rd gear puls and they were in the high 1600*F/1720* F range.

As for my logs when we did the pull in the video, my laptop died 15 mins before that. I did some last minute AFR corrections and logged those before we lost computer power.

So unfortunately I have no data from that specific pull......just 2nd gear and 3rd gears pulls from maybe 30 minutes earlier with that map being unchanged up to the front plate cracking.

The recorded data in the previous logs are what posted earlier. ALL safe parameters.

Brian.....dude you are a hard headed MoFo lol!! YOu are tempting me BUT I have two months until baby comes and I HAVE SOOOO much more shit to finish on the home it is sickening.

PM me with what my cost for this to be done by you will be please.

RETed

05-28-2010, 11:38 AM

FC3S Murray

05-28-2010, 12:08 PM

1600F - 1700F is way too high for 2nd / 3rd gear + aux injection...
Unless you were boosting like 20psi+?

I would think it would be more in the 700C / 1300F range, especially with the aux injection kicking in?

What kinda spark plugs are you running?

-Ted

My mistake Ted that was in first gear and AUX injection kicks on for a split second(around 5K or so).

I was boosting 15 psi

NGK BUR9EQ

project86

05-28-2010, 06:56 PM

Sean i got your back 100% You deserve some fun dammit!!!!

FC3S Murray

05-28-2010, 08:04 PM

Thanks homie!

Rotary Inspired

05-28-2010, 10:14 PM

Ted I know you are big on tuning w/ the EGT gauge and one of the few I know of that are brave enough to use only the EGT to tune. What are you looking for in the logs of the EGT for the cause of this?

What are your thoughts on the cracking of plates. Everything I have seen points to a misfire which causes more strain on the block. I am wondering if the addition of the aux injection could have a cause on this. IMO there is not a huge need for aux injection at the 400 hp level. If you proceed upwards getting close to 500 is where it would be good investment.

Always willing to listen. Thanks in advance.

project86

05-28-2010, 10:32 PM

I believe he chose aux injection because of the octane rating in the gas here... at least that was part of the reason.

FC3S Murray

05-29-2010, 11:10 AM

Yeah...91 octane here.

Plus I really just wanted the knock deterrant when I started to push 18 psi.

Rotary Inspired

05-29-2010, 11:46 AM

I understand completely. I run 91 here on 17 psi on the street w/ no A/I but everyone has a little different thought on it. That is why I was asking w/ Ted thought. I like to hear others opinions and compare to what I have seen. I don't know another way to learn more.

RETed

05-29-2010, 11:50 AM

Ted I know you are big on tuning w/ the EGT gauge and one of the few I know of that are brave enough to use only the EGT to tune. What are you looking for in the logs of the EGT for the cause of this?
My thoughts on tuning with EGT here:
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/MODS/EL/GAUGES/egt.htm

I still don't like how hot the EGT's were, especially it's in the lower gears...

What are your thoughts on the cracking of plates. Everything I have seen points to a misfire which causes more strain on the block. I am wondering if the addition of the aux injection could have a cause on this. IMO there is not a huge need for aux injection at the 400 hp level. If you proceed upwards getting close to 500 is where it would be good investment.

If fuel was under control, it has to be ignition timing somehow...
Overly hot intake temps are basically out of the question, since aux injection was used.
Even misfires would register on the P-FC - unless the P-FC was malfunctioning and not showing true knock?

EGT's are still too high for under those conditions.
I would've liked to see them down in the 1300F range or even slightly lower.
I'm not an aux injection guru, so it's hard for me to confirm or dismiss the aux injection as a problem, but I always though the EGT's should come down due to the aux injection...

Do you mind posting your ignition timing #'s under those ranges?

Long shot...do you remember how much torque you guys put through the tension bolts when rebuilding?
Stock Mazda tension bolts, right?
Did you do anything funky with the adapter for the oil supply line to turbo in that same area?
Crush washer, right?
Approximate torque on the adapter?

-Ted

project86

05-29-2010, 06:47 PM

Well from my memory when we rebuilt. we torqued the tension bolts to mazda spec. and in the correct order :)

sorry sean, dont mean to thread jack just tryin to help solve the mystery

TitaniumTT

05-29-2010, 08:29 PM

I would like to see the ign maps and rough revs/boost at the time of the crack. I still say that the AFR's were too low. I don't like overly rich mixtures.

Besides, I need more ammo in my quest to convince some dumbass to change his mind about some bone head idea :suspect:

:smilielol5:

FC3S Murray

05-29-2010, 10:42 PM

^

Hate all you want Brian........I am not changing my mind lol. :)

TitaniumTT

05-29-2010, 10:48 PM

I don't hate the idea of the engine, I just had a huge hand in one. I just think that rebuilding would at least let you enjoy the car WAY sooner. I mean, you're the guy that took what, 9 months to drive 1500 miles? I'll have a garage loaded with an FB, FC, FC vert, FD, and a 26b FD before you get done :kiss:

As far as your goals for the car, yes, that engine does make sense to a point. You won't have any headaches or worries as far as the engine living a long happy life at that power. However, it will take years to get that unsophisticated lump of AL into the bay as cleanly as you have the damn good looking 13b in there.

FC3S Murray

05-30-2010, 10:26 PM

However, it will take years to get that unsophisticated lump of AL into the bay as cleanly as you have the damn good looking 13b in there.

HAHAHA I beg to differ my friend....see now I have a fire under my ass because I am pissed and RE-motivated. I give my self a year...year and a half tops lol.

WE3RX7

05-30-2010, 11:55 PM

I read this the other day and didn't respond immediately. I'm sorry your iron cracked. I'd have to see a lot more info before giving my two cents, but it sounds like ignition related... knock isn't everything.

As for the choice of swap - to each their own, I just get saddened when RE guys are so quick to jump ship. IMHO its killing what the car is when you do that swap, but its not my car and I'll never do it... so more power to ya. Good luck with the next build.

FC3S Murray

05-31-2010, 07:34 AM

I just get saddened when RE guys are so quick to jump ship. .

:o11: Are you shitting me dude?! I have stayed loyal for 7 years with 6 motors in that time frame. I should get a fucking medal or something:rofl:

Like I stated earlier....at this point in my life I dont care whats under the hood......I just want to enjoy the FC.

project86

05-31-2010, 04:40 PM

:o11: Are you shitting me dude?! I have stayed loyal for 7 years with 6 motors in that time frame. I should get a fucking medal or something:rofl:

Like I stated earlier....at this point in my life I dont care whats under the hood......I just want to enjoy the FC.

im gonna keep saying it..... you deserve some fun. and you have definitely put in some quality and frustrating time in the RE. I have to say that i have never been the biggest fan of the v8 swap but thats because most ppl that do it that i know of dont even know what the rotary engine is. It seems like its alway muscle car guys that think displacement is everything. you've thoroughly experience the rotary so thats not the case with you.

also, bottom line........

Your car, your choice. Nuff said

djmtsu

05-31-2010, 05:47 PM

Sucks that the engine popped so soon. Look at mine. I had maybe 6 or 8 thousand miles on mine and it destroyed the front rotor bearing. For no good reason.

So I parted it out. (still have your SSR's though :) )

I tinkered with the idea that if I keep the RX-8 longer, and it pops, I would love to put an LSx in it. Problem is, the damn car is CAN, so I would have to re-do EVERYTHING.

Not as fun as an FC/FD swap.

MaczPayne

05-31-2010, 07:46 PM

Damn, I'm speechless!

FC3S Murray

05-31-2010, 10:29 PM

Damn, I'm speechless!

Yeah so was I the first 15 minutes after we pulled the car over.

It sucked balls for sure.................

WE3RX7

06-01-2010, 08:09 PM

Not trying to shit you ;)

And by no means am I trying to insult you... I'm just saying 7 years and 6 motors might be some really crap luck. I've had 4 engines (only popped one, two were crap and one was fine, I just sold it) in 10 years and after the last build I learned what to do better on the next one (thus the RE cosmo engine). I think you've got a great setup there and if you rebuild the motor one more time, either stud or pin it.. there is an obvious weak point.

With the experience you've gained in all the RE engines, you should be able to pull that engine out and tear it down pretty quick... give it one more shot :) You can have a solid RE engine much sooner then a V8. Sorry if I'm a hater... but I've always been a purist.

And for the record, I love V8s. In a truck. Or a boat. :)

Good luck on whatever direction you take man....

Whizbang

06-01-2010, 08:52 PM

turbos are bad mmkay

project86

06-01-2010, 10:58 PM

the day she cracked on us was the day my NA idea finalized in my head.......mmkkkaayy

chibikougan

06-01-2010, 11:05 PM

I wanna buy them Kidneys MmmKay....

Whizbang

06-01-2010, 11:09 PM

i like my NA rotaries.

but we have this GXL shell that would be a primo LS swap. after owning about 16 rotaries, damn it i feel like i can see whats the hoopla is about.

project86

06-02-2010, 12:37 PM

I wanna buy them Kidneys MmmKay....

i really dont want to part with them but it seems like the only option... or going on who wants to be a millionare\

i like my NA rotaries.

but we have this GXL shell that would be a primo LS swap. after owning about 16 rotaries, damn it i feel like i can see whats the hoopla is about.

I think you are gonna LOVE my NA build

FC3S Murray

06-02-2010, 10:11 PM

http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Picture050.jpg
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/FC3SMurray/Picture051.jpg
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