Taurus efan wiring

[JustJeff]

I've got a build thread that has gotten overwhelmingly bogged down by my own noobishness. I figured it would be more helpful to create a thread specific to this so that others can learn more easily from what I have done wrong and right.

I don't mind putting my mistakes out there. I do many things well, but I'm learning when it comes to cars, rotaries, and electronics. That being said, there is no shame in learning, but there is shame in repeating the same mistakes.... and if anyone else can learn from what I've done wrong and right then world is a better place where money grows on trees, we fart roses, etc etc.

With my rebuild I added a Taurus efan sourced from a junkyard trip.

Here is the diagram I used for wiring my efan.
https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc1/318425_2317456650232_409616596_n.jpg

I used 10ga all around for wiring.
85 - to Check Connector
30 - grounded to battery
87 - fan(-), fan(+) with circuit breaker (40a) to battery(+)
I haven't wired in idle up yet.

What happened wrong is that I ran 85 to Check Connector under my battery tray which then (unknown to me) got pinched. Pressure and vibration eventually wore down the insulation and was creating a sporadic short and blowing my EGI fuse.

What I'm wondering is if there is a better way to wire in my efan than what I am doing?

I've gotten some advice to draw power from the starter. I assume that means the fused power directly to the fan. But I don't understand how that is better/different than simply taking it off the battery?

Is there a better source for my 12V IGN source?

Also is there a better way than what I have done to protect the spade terminal wiring coming off my relay. I have the relay mounted behind the bumper with the other OEM relays. What I did to protect the spadeterminals on the relay from the elements is to inject silicon caulk. I taped them up to create a "mold", injected the caulk into it, let it harden and removed the tape. It worked but is ugly, and the terminals are now a permanent fixture. With replacing the 85 to 12V IGN I now have to either create a butt crimp, solder two wires together, or replace the whole relay. What can I do better/different?

[88turboii]

i just splice into the headlight retractor power wire for fused 12V. for switched 12v, the auto adjusting suspension connector has a good source in it. i would also run gnd to the Fan instead of 12V from batt, slightly cleaner wiring. i couldnt get my thermoswitch to work, no im not sure on that part

also on Amazon:
Parts-Express-5-Pin-Relay-Socket (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002ZPUMG/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0002ZPUMG&linkCode=as2&tag=rotarycc-20)

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31AboT1867L._SY300_.jpg (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002ZPUMG/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0002ZPUMG&linkCode=as2&tag=rotarycc-20)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002ZPUMG/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0002ZPUMG&linkCode=as2&tag=rotarycc-20

[JustJeff]

^
I believe the adjusting suspension was a S4 thing? My S5 convertible doens't have one.

I ended up grounding to the battery while I was working out the wiring on the fan. I couldn't figure out why I was blowing fuses and grounded directly to the battery simply to assure myself that my ground was solid and used a 40a resetting circuit breaker cause I was tired of replacing my fuses.

Nice heads up on the relay socket, never thought to look for a socket separate. I'll google for one with 10ga wires. My relay came with a socket but I didn't want to solder down from 10ga wiring to whatever was on my relay, probably 12 or 14ga. I was expecting to be able to insert my female ends into the socket that came with my relay, but it didn't work out that way.

One concern I have with my thermoswitch is that temps are getting disturbingly high before the fan kicks on. It's a Starion switch which IIRC is a 195 on switch, and it's not coming on till around 205-210. It seems like temps creep higher as the fan toggles off and on. Temps will drop down to just under 200 and the fan will toggle off. But then my temp gauge will be reading like 215ish before it toggles back on. I'm in the habit of using my manual switch because I don't trust my thermoswitch. Perhaps the funky on and off was related to my sporadic short on my +12V IGN?

[JL1RX7]

^
I believe the adjusting suspension was a S4 thing? My S5 convertible doens't have one.

I ended up grounding to the battery while I was working out the wiring on the fan. I couldn't figure out why I was blowing fuses and grounded directly to the battery simply to assure myself that my ground was solid and used a 40a resetting circuit breaker cause I was tired of replacing my fuses.

Nice heads up on the relay socket, never thought to look for a socket separate. I'll google for one with 10ga wires. My relay came with a socket but I didn't want to solder down from 10ga wiring to whatever was on my relay, probably 12 or 14ga. I was expecting to be able to insert my female ends into the socket that came with my relay, but it didn't work out that way.

One concern I have with my thermoswitch is that temps are getting disturbingly high before the fan kicks on. It's a Starion switch which IIRC is a 195 on switch, and it's not coming on till around 205-210. It seems like temps creep higher as the fan toggles off and on. Temps will drop down to just under 200 and the fan will toggle off. But then my temp gauge will be reading like 215ish before it toggles back on. I'm in the habit of using my manual switch because I don't trust my thermoswitch. Perhaps the funky on and off was related to my sporadic short on my +12V IGN?


S4/S5 GXL thing for the AAS.

What temp sensor is it using to for the deadband (on/off)? If it was in the the same ground circuit it might be giving you strange readings. It sounds like it needs to be calibrated or adjusted down a few degrees.