RXtacy
04-09-2008, 06:53 PM
So after having my profec B type S for a few months I finally got the time to install it. Install is pretty straight forward and something that most people could do. I will post pics soon when I get a chance.
First for the possible hang ups:
1. Running wires/vacuum lines through firewall
2. Mounting greddy solenoid
3. Mounting profec module in cabin
4. Finding power source for profec module
Solutions:
1. Running things through the firewall is actually quite easy if you know what to do. There are several options, but IMHO by far the best is to run things through the existing grommets in the firewall. There are three grommets on the driver side and two on the passenger side. Depending on where you want it to end up in the cabin will determine which side to use. To access these grommets remove the wheel and rear half of the fender liner. The grommets will be on the firewall directly behind the fender liner.
2. The greddy solenoid is pretty small, but the mounting plate only attatches in one way which can limit possible mounting locations. I mounted mine on the bracket that holds the four box like things (the name eludes me) behind the passenger side head light. Just try to keep it away from major heat sources, and you should be fine.
3. For the profec module I decided to mount it under the steering wheel to the right of the hood latch. I simply used double sided tape. Some people who have the single din radio have also used custom mounting plates that cover the lower din opening and look pretty slick.
4. The easiest place to get power for the module is right from the fuse box. The fuse box is right to the left of the dead pedal on the drivers side. There are two open slots that will accept a spade connector. Crimp on a spade connector to you power wire (red wire) and plug it in. Route wire accordingly.
Procedure:
First remove tire on desired side you wish to run the profec to. I used the drivers side. Then remove the screws and tabs that hold the fender liner in place. They will be clearly visible once wheel is removed.
Assemble the few parts that need to be added to the greddy solenoid. This means attach the mounting plate, and install the two vacuum nipples. One vacuum nipple goes in the com location, and the other in the no location.
Before continuing you need to remove at least the intake box and pipes, and it would probably be easier if you remove the ic as well. Next decide where you want to mount the greddy solenoid. I chose a location close to the waste gate/pre-control actuators. Use the supplied bolt and rubber washers (to absorb vibration) and mount it.
Look down under where the intake used to be you will see the two actuators (pre-control and wastegate.) You are going to be removing the wastegate vacuum hose, which is the shorter of the two and on the right side if looking towards the car. These are the hoses that have the pills in them. Get a pair of pliers and remove the spring clips and pull the hose out. From the nipple on the actuator run a vacuum line to the (com) nipple on the greddy solenoid. From the pressure nipple run a vacuum line to the (no) nipple on the greddy solenoid. Make sure to zip tie the two lines on the greddy solenoid and use the spring clips on the actuator and pressure source. There is another line going out the back of the wastegate actuator to a hard line a few inches away. This is the source the ecu uses to control the wastegate, so it needs to be removed and both nipples capped.
Plug in the wire harness to the plug on the solenoid and route it to whatever side you plan to run things into the cabin. I routed mine behind the abs unit, behind the uim and under the brake booster to the driver side fender. If you already have a manual boost gauge things will be a little easier for you. If you don't you should have a capped nipple on the uim. Remove the cap and run a vacuum line from there the same way you did the wires from the greddy solenoid. If you do have a boost guage with a vacuum line already in the cabin you can simple T off of it for the profec b.
If you have cruise control you might need to remove it as it could get in the way of this step. While looking at the engine bay side of the fender wall you will see a triangular grommet. This leads through the fender wall behind the fender liner to the grommets on the firewall. Run wires and vacuum line if applicable through this triangular hole into the fender well. In the fender well you will see two grommets facing you, one large with a thick wiring harness running through it and one smaller with nothing in it. The larger one is probably the easiest to work with. Pull back the largest boot with the large front harness going through it. It may take a little working but once you pulled it back far enough you can see space around the harness. Run your wires (and vacuum line) through that space and feed it as far as you can. If it goes a decent ways 12-18" it went plenty far. The hole comes out behind the fuse box in the driver side footwell. You may have to reach around to feel for the wire connector and vacuum line but it will be there. Once you have the lines where you need them push the grommet back into place.
Run the lines to wherever you are mounting the profec b. I mounted mine under the steering column with double sided tape. Plug the wire connector in, put the supplied air filter on whatever vacuum line you are using and run from the other side of the air filter to the profec b. Alright almost done just need to wire up the power. As I stated earlier crimp a spade connector to the red wire and route that down to the fuse box. Plug it into one of the small slots above the fuses. Chose any suitable grounding point and ground the black wire. That's it you should see around 7psi with the controller off if it is connected correctly.
First for the possible hang ups:
1. Running wires/vacuum lines through firewall
2. Mounting greddy solenoid
3. Mounting profec module in cabin
4. Finding power source for profec module
Solutions:
1. Running things through the firewall is actually quite easy if you know what to do. There are several options, but IMHO by far the best is to run things through the existing grommets in the firewall. There are three grommets on the driver side and two on the passenger side. Depending on where you want it to end up in the cabin will determine which side to use. To access these grommets remove the wheel and rear half of the fender liner. The grommets will be on the firewall directly behind the fender liner.
2. The greddy solenoid is pretty small, but the mounting plate only attatches in one way which can limit possible mounting locations. I mounted mine on the bracket that holds the four box like things (the name eludes me) behind the passenger side head light. Just try to keep it away from major heat sources, and you should be fine.
3. For the profec module I decided to mount it under the steering wheel to the right of the hood latch. I simply used double sided tape. Some people who have the single din radio have also used custom mounting plates that cover the lower din opening and look pretty slick.
4. The easiest place to get power for the module is right from the fuse box. The fuse box is right to the left of the dead pedal on the drivers side. There are two open slots that will accept a spade connector. Crimp on a spade connector to you power wire (red wire) and plug it in. Route wire accordingly.
Procedure:
First remove tire on desired side you wish to run the profec to. I used the drivers side. Then remove the screws and tabs that hold the fender liner in place. They will be clearly visible once wheel is removed.
Assemble the few parts that need to be added to the greddy solenoid. This means attach the mounting plate, and install the two vacuum nipples. One vacuum nipple goes in the com location, and the other in the no location.
Before continuing you need to remove at least the intake box and pipes, and it would probably be easier if you remove the ic as well. Next decide where you want to mount the greddy solenoid. I chose a location close to the waste gate/pre-control actuators. Use the supplied bolt and rubber washers (to absorb vibration) and mount it.
Look down under where the intake used to be you will see the two actuators (pre-control and wastegate.) You are going to be removing the wastegate vacuum hose, which is the shorter of the two and on the right side if looking towards the car. These are the hoses that have the pills in them. Get a pair of pliers and remove the spring clips and pull the hose out. From the nipple on the actuator run a vacuum line to the (com) nipple on the greddy solenoid. From the pressure nipple run a vacuum line to the (no) nipple on the greddy solenoid. Make sure to zip tie the two lines on the greddy solenoid and use the spring clips on the actuator and pressure source. There is another line going out the back of the wastegate actuator to a hard line a few inches away. This is the source the ecu uses to control the wastegate, so it needs to be removed and both nipples capped.
Plug in the wire harness to the plug on the solenoid and route it to whatever side you plan to run things into the cabin. I routed mine behind the abs unit, behind the uim and under the brake booster to the driver side fender. If you already have a manual boost gauge things will be a little easier for you. If you don't you should have a capped nipple on the uim. Remove the cap and run a vacuum line from there the same way you did the wires from the greddy solenoid. If you do have a boost guage with a vacuum line already in the cabin you can simple T off of it for the profec b.
If you have cruise control you might need to remove it as it could get in the way of this step. While looking at the engine bay side of the fender wall you will see a triangular grommet. This leads through the fender wall behind the fender liner to the grommets on the firewall. Run wires and vacuum line if applicable through this triangular hole into the fender well. In the fender well you will see two grommets facing you, one large with a thick wiring harness running through it and one smaller with nothing in it. The larger one is probably the easiest to work with. Pull back the largest boot with the large front harness going through it. It may take a little working but once you pulled it back far enough you can see space around the harness. Run your wires (and vacuum line) through that space and feed it as far as you can. If it goes a decent ways 12-18" it went plenty far. The hole comes out behind the fuse box in the driver side footwell. You may have to reach around to feel for the wire connector and vacuum line but it will be there. Once you have the lines where you need them push the grommet back into place.
Run the lines to wherever you are mounting the profec b. I mounted mine under the steering column with double sided tape. Plug the wire connector in, put the supplied air filter on whatever vacuum line you are using and run from the other side of the air filter to the profec b. Alright almost done just need to wire up the power. As I stated earlier crimp a spade connector to the red wire and route that down to the fuse box. Plug it into one of the small slots above the fuses. Chose any suitable grounding point and ground the black wire. That's it you should see around 7psi with the controller off if it is connected correctly.