N\A turbo question?

[tyler]

Ok guys so if just got a pair of s5 na rotors in great shape, I've been looking a lot into throwing them into my t2 engine. There are a lot of threads about this (mostly puting a turbo on a na engine) and most of them say extra fuel is needed past 8 psi. My question is could the t2 ecu run these rotors saftley at stock psi? I know all the high comp arguments and detonation risk but these sseem to only have been reported at 10psi+. I will eventually get a standalone or even a rteck as a intermediate step but wanted to know if its ok to run this setup

[vex]

I'd use an RTek before throwing them in at the very least.

[blaen99]

I'd use an RTek before throwing them in at the very least.

I'm curious - what's the hesitation in the rx7world for megasquirting?

The Megasquirt is both cheaper and a lot better than the Rtek. But everyone seems to recommend Rtek. Why is that?

[85rx-7gsl-se]

Rtek is easier to install?

[vex]

I'm curious - what's the hesitation in the rx7world for megasquirting?

The Megasquirt is both cheaper and a lot better than the Rtek. But everyone seems to recommend Rtek. Why is that?

Rtek is easier to install?
There's a few reasons. One of which it is easier to install.

Major things to consider with an RTek (I'm talking about v2.1 and higher) is that first and foremost you don't *have* to do any tuning with it. You literally can plug it in and go with the base map already set specifically for your stock car. There are of course a few little extras already included with it which can be viewed on the website. The other benefit is relative to that; you don't have to mess around with other sensors or modifying or constructing a new harness. In the amount of time it takes for someone to build a megasquirt, hook up the harness, tune it, and get all the kinks out. The Rtek could already have made a road trip to DGRR and back again.

This is not to say that megasquirt it not a great product. It is. The number of features and ability of the unit is hard to beat for the price. The balancing factor is the time required and familiarization with both the hardware and software aspect to make it beneficial. There are a slew of other products that fill a niche in the market but are a gradient of prices and performance.

The way I look at it is:

RTek
Megasquirt
Haltech Sprint 500
Motech MR2
Medium Entry Stand alones (Haltech PS1k, Motec M400, etc)
Expert level Standalones (Haltech Pro--Not yet released, Motec M880, etc)
From Scratch ECU's

[tyler]

I just mentioned rteck because once u get ur ecu back its just plug and go. If I didn't have a jspec n374 ecu I would have already sent out for a 1.x version just for the little extra. Plus the do the install and the whole 1.x lins is under 200$

[RETed]

I'm curious - what's the hesitation in the rx7world for megasquirting?

The Megasquirt is both cheaper and a lot better than the Rtek. But everyone seems to recommend Rtek. Why is that?

Cause there is no support.


-Ted

[N.RotaryTech]

Tyler,

My set-up is: a mild-street-port S4 6-port motor (9.4 comp rotors), T04 turbo, external wastgate w/10 lbs spring, 720cc secondary injectors, TII AFM, Stock S5 NA ECU, etc.

The build thread link below, start with post #52
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/showthread.php?t=12895&page=3

This car has run great for me, even though I have to peddle it around 6 psi cause it has a 10 lbs wastgate spring.
After 6psi it starts running lean.
If I put a TII fuel pump in it, it would probably help.


So assuming you have a TII motor and TII ecu, then making sure you have the TII fuel components, you could run that motor with the 9.7 comp rotors on the stock TII boost (8 psi?) for now until you get a aftermarket ecu.

But don't take my word for it.
My motor is the spawn of 2 to 3 different rotary experiments over the past few years using what I have. One of my rotary friends calls it "satan's rotary", lol.

[85rx-7gsl-se]

Where does microtech fit in your list Vex?

[tyler]

Thanks N.RotaryTech. I do have all the fuel parts. But I think I'm going to pickup some spare housings and just swap the block. That way if something does blow I won't have alot of down time