Clutch hydraulics question

[Pete_89T2]

Hey guys, ran into an intermittent clutch problem on my way home from DGRR, which has repeated once since then. Every once in a while, when I depress the clutch pedal it fails to come back up when I let off it - just sits there on the floor. When this happens, sticking my toes under the pedal and pulling it back up, followed by a few pumps on the pedal gets it back to normal operations. There's no sign of leaking fluid anywhere near the clutch master or slave cylinders, ditto for the hydraulic line. As far as I know, the master & slave cylinder is original, 137K miles.

When I had a very similar problem with my FB, replacing just the slave cylinder fixed it, but that was with only like 40K miles on the clock. Question is, should I replace just the slave or both master & slave cylinders at this point? I'm leaning towards both given the miles/age. Thoughts?

[FerociousP]

My initial thought is the master because if it isn't leaking externally as a valve could be failing... you could be pumping fluid back into the reservoir. For externally, have you checked under the dash for fluid leaking?

It definitely won't hurt to change both at the same time and get a stainless line while you are at it... Then voila... 100% new hydraulics. And its not too difficult to install or bleed really, just need small hands and a helper! lol

[Pete_89T2]

I took a look under the dash, but didn't bother to yank the carpet up for a closer look b/c the fluid level in the MC reservoir was at the full line - if it's leaking it's most likely internal.

I'll probably just replace everything and be done with it. Having a Motive pressure bleeder handy makes the job an easy 1-man job, but still requires tiny monkey hands!

[FerociousP]

I have one word for you... "Finger ratchets!" the rachets that are a circle with knurls on the outside. perfect for this situation

[TitaniumTT]

Hey Pete, it's really hard to tell which is leaking internally without taking them apart to find the bum seal, but it's definately one of them. For the cost of them, and expecting the non replaced to fail shortly after the new one gets replaced, I would just go ahead and replace them both...... just me though.

If one was definately leaking, I'd say replace just that one, buuuuuuuuuut in this instance, should cost $80 to end the headaches.

[Pete_89T2]

^ Roger that, I priced out the parts on a couple of online sources yesterday and it looks I can get both cylinders plus a SS line for under $100. No point not replacing everything and being done with it.