Oem Electrical Connectors

[vex]

Anyone have any sources for a place that sells OEM style electrical connectors? For instance: Crimp pieces for BAC, TPS, Water Temp, etc.

[My5ABaby]

Eastern Beaver may.

[vex]

I tried hunting through their website, but I'm not seeing any of the one's I'm looking for (might have found the TPS). Is there someplace specific on there you are thinking of?

[My5ABaby]

No, I haven't looked through the page much. It was just referenced for me by a couple people. I plan on either using Metripacks or cutting off the stock connectors and butt connecting them to the wiring.

[88turboii]

i dont have any part numbers, but you could try poking around these:

http://www.mouser.com/Interconnects/Automotive-Connectors/_/N-1ehb5/
http://www.alliedelec.com/connectors/

btw, does anybody have a part number or source for stock ecu connectors?

[rx7 FC TII]

try blackdragonauto.com

they might have the connectors.

[vex]

looks like they don't have FC parts anymore:
http://www.blackdragonauto.com/carcatalog.htm

[Howru]

I got a set at Vintage Connections. The 4 and 6 pin connectors work, but on the 2-pin and 3-pin T connectors the retaining tang on the pin is positioned differently. They work, but need a bit of force to get them locked together.

[TitaniumTT]

The only one you REALLY need is the BAC there T. The others are the same as some aftermkt Bosch units. The BAC connector is the only one that I raped from a factory harness and butt connected to the harness. Not happy about it but whatever. The other sensors you should be swapping out anyway.

The other option is to get some small Fast-on terminals, drop a bit of solder on the pins, and then fill the void with epoxy and add a 2-pin deutsch or metripak connector.

[vex]

More work than I'm willing to do. As it currently stands TTT; I'm having to retain my craptacular intake manifold (no new goodness for me), which means my TPS and BAC valve are being kept until I have the funds, time, and means to build the new intake manifold with the LS TB.

The water temp sensor I thought I could keep stock and be okay with? I'll be re-doing a lot of sensors including a Fuel Pressure sensor (I know you like it), air temperature sensor, new oil pressure sensor, and a 3 bar GM sensor so I can grow with the boost (I'm also picking up a boost control solenoid).

As others have mentioned, my biggest concern is sourcing a BAC connector, mine has seen better days.

[TitaniumTT]

More work than I'm willing to do. As it currently stands TTT; I'm having to retain my craptacular intake manifold (no new goodness for me), which means my TPS and BAC valve are being kept until I have the funds, time, and means to build the new intake manifold with the LS TB.

What's more work? soldering and epoxing in a few wires?

You should be able to find a connector kit for the TPS... call Motec? :rofl:

The water temp sensor I thought I could keep stock and be okay with? I'll be re-doing a lot of sensors including a Fuel Pressure sensor (I know you like it), air temperature sensor, new oil pressure sensor, and a 3 bar GM sensor so I can grow with the boost (I'm also picking up a boost control solenoid).

You might be able to keep the stock coolant temp sensor, but why? They can be had with a connector kit for $38?

As others have mentioned, my biggest concern is sourcing a BAC connector, mine has seen better days.

I was never able to find a replacement socket and terminals for the BAC. Only option is either the teminal/epoxy route or rape a connector from a different harness.

[vex]

What's more work? soldering and epoxing in a few wires?Epoxying yes. Soldering not so much.:rofl: I think I might honestly just clip my BAC connector from my factory harness, solder it on the Haltech harness (I know, I know, but I'm planning on replacing the BAC eventually anyways so I'd just be wasting a crimp if I did it that way--in fact I may do that for a majority of the sensors I have to use).

You should be able to find a connector kit for the TPS... call Motec? :rofl:
Would have to be rather inexpensive as I'm already planning on trashing it once the above criteria is met.


You might be able to keep the stock coolant temp sensor, but why? They can be had with a connector kit for $38?Maybe when I upgrade the intake manifold I'll spend the extra $38 bucks. It just seems kind of pointless right now.



I was never able to find a replacement socket and terminals for the BAC. Only option is either the teminal/epoxy route or rape a connector from a different harness.That sucks. Not even Motec sells 'em?

[Rotary Evolution]

eastern beaver only really has old style connectors like the ACV connectors and many found on 1st gens.

these connectors will work for 86-88 injectors(88 high impedence injectors you have to cut the locating lug off of the injector as well as the water thermosensor lug to make them fit properly):

airtex - 1p1000
GP sorenson - 800-9213
BWD(Borg Warner) - 27427

for the BAC valve you can use an S5 injector style clips found here:
http://kgparts.com/index.php?page=kgfuel
ND-IC, 3/4 down the page

for double sided connectors like the two 2 pin ACV connectors, it's easier just to go the the wrecking yards and pick up 2 and 3 pin connectors and cut off both sides and replace the whole thing(doesn't matter what connector you use or what car you got it from but i personally prefer the metri-pak connectors found on later model GM vehicles which are also readily available at connector stores).

and for reference, i have found that supra's of the same year range use many of the same tyco connectors as the later model RX7 such as S5 and S6 use. unfortunately they usually aren't in much better shape but they are easier to find in wrecking yards.

problem with the stock connectors is that many manufacturers require rediculously large orders who actually do have OEM connectors still for these harnesses.

i have spent a bit of time researching the connectors but with little success, you can also find some good info for later models RX7s in my thread here:
http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=940265&highlight=stock+connectors

[JustJeff]

I'm rebuilding my harness. I was thinking ahead and snipped the water thermo plug (Green rectangular two pin one on the back of the water pump) from a junkyard. That plug is in awesome shape.

My CAS plug is horrible. But I believe I can buy the male terminal pins locally.

Probably going to rebuild my TPS. IIRC the actual male/female plugs are good. But being a N/A harness converted for a turbo swap, the wires were extended and while it's out I want to make sure the patch is in good shape.

[TitaniumTT]

If you're not running the factory ECU, just replace the coolant sensor and get a Bosch termination kit.

TPS, same thing. I was able to find a Bosch (I think) connector that plugged right in, NEW pins.

CAS, get a deutsch connector and be done with it.

[JustJeff]

TTT- I'm using stock ECU...well Rtek but, you get the point. Before my engine goes back in I'm replacing any suspect areas.

[TitaniumTT]

There's probably going to be more suspect area's than you think on a 25 year old harness. I've run into issues where the copper gets so brittle that I've broken it crimping butt connectors in, and then wrapping the entire chassis harness. Infact, hours before I was getting ready to leave on my epic road adventure, I noticed my front markers were out. Turned out to be a buttsplice that broke the wires and was only making intermittat contact. Pulled the bumper, fender and unwrapped most of the chassis harness hunting down that break. Sucked balls. Think of what might happen if that happens with say an injector on a boosted engine..... pop goes the rotary

[My5ABaby]

Think of what might happen if that happens with say an injector on a boosted engine..... pop goes the rotary

N/A > Boooooost

[vex]

Lies!

[TitaniumTT]

Blasphmer!!!

[JustJeff]

There's probably going to be more suspect area's than you think on a 25 year old harness. I've run into issues where the copper gets so brittle that I've broken it crimping butt connectors in, and then wrapping the entire chassis harness. Infact, hours before I was getting ready to leave on my epic road adventure, I noticed my front markers were out. Turned out to be a buttsplice that broke the wires and was only making intermittat contact. Pulled the bumper, fender and unwrapped most of the chassis harness hunting down that break. Sucked balls. Think of what might happen if that happens with say an injector on a boosted engine..... pop goes the rotary

Agreed. I'm going over everything. It's been an ongoing battle ever since I started tweeking things from having my swap done a few years ago. The guy who did my wiring for my TPS, to extend the N/A plugs to meet where the turbo wiring should meet.....well lets just say it was subpar. I'll post up pics for your shock and amusement later tonight.

[TitaniumTT]

When it comes to wiring, very little shocks me anymore.... it just amuzes.... sorry it happened to you though.

Just makes me wonder how many mytery fails are due to poor wiring

[JustJeff]

This was what I found after I started having engine problems shortly after my swap. The fuzzy picture is a cheap speaker wire someone used as a patch. Not only was it the cheapest of wire you could imagine, but the copper was corroded from one end to the other. All the dark area inside the insulation and also on the center area of the crimp is corrosion. The wire was corroded enough that the corrosion bled thru the crimp. The wire spliced in looked like it sat in the bottom of a damp trunk for sometime BEFORE it was used.
http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v1909/35/85/1063965498/n1063965498_30258580_2444.jpg

The other problems I had with almost every crimp the person made was that they didn't trim the insulation back far enough on just about any of the crimps. I had a few crimps that came apart in my hands while trying to test and adjust my TPS.
http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v1909/35/85/1063965498/n1063965498_30258581_2700.jpg

This is my replacement of the bad TPS. I swapped some from an N/A bracket to a turbo bracket and went over all the splices with solder.
http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v1909/35/85/1063965498/n1063965498_30258586_3993.jpg

[JustJeff]

This is a little more on topic. I was trying to replace my water thermosensor plug on the back of the waterpump housing. I have what I thought were two spare S5 N/A harnesses to steal parts from. At first I thought this was a water thermosensor plug...but the notches are on the opposite side.
http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/181589_1748226299829_1063965498_31822036_6281627_n .jpg

I'm thinking of taking a dremel to it and simply making a notch.

[JustJeff]

Can anyone help me with a description of these terminals/connectors? It's from a S5 Thermosensor plug. Rather than splice some old wires into my harness I'd prefer to get new connectors and use new wiring.

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/181740_1748225579811_1063965498_31822029_2502148_n .jpg

I'd also love to find a new thermosensor plug like the previous post. But I'm having trouble with what to put in my searches on Mouser and similar sites. It's rectangular, female, two position, green. If anyone can help with how to narrow my search I'd be very grateful.

[jerry51]

try https://www.allicdata.com/products.html
(https://www.allicdata.com/products.html)
they might have the connectors.

[speedjunkie]

8 year resurrection! But for future reference...

https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/index.php/cPath/109_172

www.corsa-technic.com

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/connectors.html

Corsa-Technic is the one I normally use. And if what you're looking for isn't on their site, you can contact them and they'll find it for you. They've done it for me once already.

[vex]

OHhhhhhhh Nice.