How do they come apart?

parrotfever · 07-04-2009, 12:12 PM

When removing the harness from the ECU, per the removal guide -

Follow this harness up into the kick panel and unplug the remaining connections. ... s5 models only have 2 large yellow connectors to unplug.

can anyone advise how? I see them - can get 2 fingers up to where they're attached to the kick plate - but how the eff do they come apart!?! Don't want to remove the fan assy etc to get in & would prefer not to rip them off the wall!

parrotfever Bob

vex · 07-04-2009, 12:48 PM

Pictures are worth a thousand words, but if you're going where I think you're going it's just a PITA and you have to stay at it until you get the entire assembly free and unplug them.

RotaryDiagnostics · 07-05-2009, 12:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by parrotfever

When removing the harness from the ECU, per the removal guide -

Follow this harness up into the kick panel and unplug the remaining connections. ... s5 models only have 2 large yellow connectors to unplug.

can anyone advise how? I see them - can get 2 fingers up to where they're attached to the kick plate - but how the eff do they come apart!?! Don't want to remove the fan assy etc to get in & would prefer not to rip them off the wall!

parrotfever Bob

Not sure I understand your problem, but let me try.

First, you are apparently at the ECU, so I won't mention that you need to remove some interior panels and fold back the carpeting to access it. The ECU is protected by a fairly large metal cover held down by 2 nuts and 2 bolts. Remove that cover and the connectors will be in plain view.

Despite what is said above, the S5 has three individual connectors. To remove the connectors push down on the tab located on top and at the center of each yellow connector, and at the same time using a small screw driver carefully pry out the connectors by inserting the screw driver in the little narrow grooves on top of the connectors. It helps to pry a little at one end of the connector then move to the other end to do the same, working your way back and forth until the connector pops out. Work one connector at a time.

TehMonkay · 07-05-2009, 01:01 PM

Yeah it just takes a fuckload of work. Cut up my hand a little getting it out

parrotfever · 07-05-2009, 06:48 PM

Not the ones direct on the ECU - I got them no problem - there are 2 additional fastened to the passenger side kick panel between it and the air conditioning blower motor - there's maybe 1" space between. I can just touch the 2 connectors but can't get in enough to press the release or even see it. It is somehow clipped to the kick panel & I can't figure the release. I'll try tomorrow to get in there again & shoot pictures if I can get the camera in there. Appreciate the thoughts, though.

djmtsu · 07-06-2009, 06:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by parrotfever

Not the ones direct on the ECU - I got them no problem - there are 2 additional fastened to the passenger side kick panel between it and the air conditioning blower motor - there's maybe 1" space between. I can just touch the 2 connectors but can't get in enough to press the release or even see it. It is somehow clipped to the kick panel & I can't figure the release. I'll try tomorrow to get in there again & shoot pictures if I can get the camera in there. Appreciate the thoughts, though.

I know which ones you are talking about, they are a major pain to get to.

I just persevered, flipped upside down with a flashlight in my mouth until I got them.

FYI- if you forget to plug those in when you put everything back together, the car WILL NOT start. Ask me how I know.

Phoenix7 · 07-06-2009, 10:59 AM

oh yeah. THOSE are bitches to pull...good luck

need RX7 · 07-06-2009, 02:05 PM

Oh god those are a fucking bitch. Good luck, I advise having a supply of band-aids and things to throw.

TehMonkay · 07-08-2009, 05:40 PM

I did this again 2 days ago putting in my haltech, the one actually rests on a clip, i pulled it off of the clip (towards the rear of the car) pulled it out some and then seperated the two connectors, the other one wasnt very difficult.

parrotfever · 07-08-2009, 07:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TehMonkay

i pulled it off of the clip (towards the rear of the car) pulled it out some and then seperated the two connectors, the other one wasnt very difficult.

Many thanks! I'll try that in the morning. I just couldn't figure which way to go to get it off the kick panel.

NoDOHC · 07-08-2009, 09:20 PM

There is a single nut above the connector that holds it in. This connector supplies the ECU with voltage, (which is why it will not run without it). After you see how it comes apart, it is not very difficult.

As I recall, there is a tab in the center of the top of the front connector (further from you) that you push toward you. The rear one is for the door locks and power windows and is not necessary to remove.

Akagis_White_Comet · 10-12-2010, 03:11 PM

For the sake of organization and findability, these connectors are labelled in the FSM as FEM01 and FEM02. With my post, this thread will be easily found by putting in the connector names.

Are there any sort of 'magic tricks' to getting these bastard connectors free? I've been fighting one of them for half an hour and it's wreaking havoc on my back being curled over the sill plate under the dashboard backwards.

These two bastard connectors, siblings to the bitch bolts we all know TOO well, are the only thing holding up my 20b conversion.

If someone could take pity on me and offer a pearl of wisdom on this, or perhaps stop by and undo the connectors for me, I'd be more than happy to hook you up with any Japan-Spec part numbers (Including Infini I-IV and Spirit R's) you're looking for. And I'll toss in a 20b birthday report too. Mine is #352 and was both on Friday the 13th

hIGGI · 10-12-2010, 05:12 PM

After years and years of doing it wrong way, last time i pulled out fan motor assembly (3 nuts and 2 or 3 easy accessible plugs) and wont do it otherwise anymore.....

Its much more convenient, no stress, no pain. I did it for haltech install, but dont see a reason to not do it for regular stock harness push-thru.

Old saying 'being lazy hurts' is usually very true

***TitaniumTT*** · 10-12-2010, 08:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hIGGI

After years and years of doing it wrong way, last time i pulled out fan motor assembly (3 nuts and 2 or 3 easy accessible plugs) and wont do it otherwise anymore.....

Its much more convenient, no stress, no pain. I did it for haltech install, but dont see a reason to not do it for regular stock harness push-thru.

Old saying 'being lazy hurts' is usually very true

This is EXACTLEY what I was going to say. Some times is quicker to do more work to save some pain, removing the blower motor should take all of 3.5 minutes with a 10mm socket and some extensions. Then you have ALLLLL the access you'll ever need.

speedjunkie · 10-21-2010, 01:07 AM

I got those fairly easily compared to what I'm hearing from you guys haha. Don't get me wrong, it's still a PITA to do, but not impossible. I ended up removing the three bolts that hold that panel in and pulling the panel down some, but I'm not sure it helped. You should be able to rotate those to another angle and maybe that would help. Also, since the push tab is virtually untouchable with your fingers you could use a flat tip screwdriver just to press the tab and then pull on the wires with your other hand. Or you could possibly use some needle nose pliers and squeeze the tab down (gripping each side of the connector) and then pull it out. Not sure. I've only done it once, and come to find out that harness wasn't the one that was bad LOL so we just plugged it right back in.

07-04-2009, 12:12 PM	#1
parrotfever Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Northern NJ iTrader: (0) Posts: 37 Rep Power: 0	How do they come apart? When removing the harness from the ECU, per the removal guide - Follow this harness up into the kick panel and unplug the remaining connections. ... s5 models only have 2 large yellow connectors to unplug. can anyone advise how? I see them - can get 2 fingers up to where they're attached to the kick plate - but how the eff do they come apart!?! Don't want to remove the fan assy etc to get in & would prefer not to rip them off the wall! parrotfever Bob __________________ 1989 RX-7 convertible 2000 F-350 4x4 crew cab 2002 Altima 3.5 wife's buggy - 2004 Titan 4x4 crew cab

07-04-2009, 12:48 PM	#2
vex RCC Loves Me Not You Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Influx. iTrader: (6) Posts: 2,113 Rep Power: 19	Pictures are worth a thousand words, but if you're going where I think you're going it's just a PITA and you have to stay at it until you get the entire assembly free and unplug them. __________________ The Official FC Radiator Thread My Project Thread: Cerberus CCVT Virginia Rotary Group

07-05-2009, 01:01 PM	#4
TehMonkay Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Louisville, KY iTrader: (0) Posts: 302 Rep Power: 17	Yeah it just takes a fuckload of work. Cut up my hand a little getting it out __________________ My car blows up everytime I start it, it's rotary

07-05-2009, 06:48 PM	#5
parrotfever Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Northern NJ iTrader: (0) Posts: 37 Rep Power: 0	Not the ones direct on the ECU - I got them no problem - there are 2 additional fastened to the passenger side kick panel between it and the air conditioning blower motor - there's maybe 1" space between. I can just touch the 2 connectors but can't get in enough to press the release or even see it. It is somehow clipped to the kick panel & I can't figure the release. I'll try tomorrow to get in there again & shoot pictures if I can get the camera in there. Appreciate the thoughts, though. __________________ 1989 RX-7 convertible 2000 F-350 4x4 crew cab 2002 Altima 3.5 wife's buggy - 2004 Titan 4x4 crew cab

07-06-2009, 02:05 PM	#8
need RX7 Clean S4 Nutswinger Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Sterling Heights, MI iTrader: (0) Posts: 485 Rep Power: 17	Oh god those are a fucking bitch. Good luck, I advise having a supply of band-aids and things to throw. __________________ -Ted -1986 Mazda RX7 Sport [DD/beater]: engine finally let go at 205k. parts car status. -1986 Mazda RX7 base [resto-mod project]: S5 n/a swap in progress. Last edited by need RX7; 07-07-2009 at 02:29 AM..

07-08-2009, 05:40 PM	#9
TehMonkay Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Louisville, KY iTrader: (0) Posts: 302 Rep Power: 17	I did this again 2 days ago putting in my haltech, the one actually rests on a clip, i pulled it off of the clip (towards the rear of the car) pulled it out some and then seperated the two connectors, the other one wasnt very difficult. __________________ My car blows up everytime I start it, it's rotary

07-08-2009, 09:20 PM	#11
NoDOHC The quest for more torque Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Sheboygan, Wisconsin iTrader: (1) Posts: 855 Rep Power: 17	There is a single nut above the connector that holds it in. This connector supplies the ECU with voltage, (which is why it will not run without it). After you see how it comes apart, it is not very difficult. As I recall, there is a tab in the center of the top of the front connector (further from you) that you push toward you. The rear one is for the door locks and power windows and is not necessary to remove. __________________ 1986 GXL ('87 4-port NA - Haltech E8, LS2 Coils. Defined Autoworks Headers, Dual 2.5" Exhaust (Dual Superflow, dBX mufflers) 1991 Coupe (KYB AGX Shocks, Eibach lowering springs, RB exhaust, Stock and Automatic)

10-12-2010, 03:11 PM	#12
Akagis_White_Comet Comealong busts your nuts Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Columbus, OH iTrader: (0) Posts: 29 Rep Power: 0	For the sake of organization and findability, these connectors are labelled in the FSM as FEM01 and FEM02. With my post, this thread will be easily found by putting in the connector names. Are there any sort of 'magic tricks' to getting these bastard connectors free? I've been fighting one of them for half an hour and it's wreaking havoc on my back being curled over the sill plate under the dashboard backwards. These two bastard connectors, siblings to the bitch bolts we all know TOO well, are the only thing holding up my 20b conversion. If someone could take pity on me and offer a pearl of wisdom on this, or perhaps stop by and undo the connectors for me, I'd be more than happy to hook you up with any Japan-Spec part numbers (Including Infini I-IV and Spirit R's) you're looking for. And I'll toss in a 20b birthday report too. Mine is #352 and was both on Friday the 13th __________________

10-12-2010, 05:12 PM	#13
hIGGI Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Czech Republic iTrader: (0) Posts: 78 Rep Power: 17	After years and years of doing it wrong way, last time i pulled out fan motor assembly (3 nuts and 2 or 3 easy accessible plugs) and wont do it otherwise anymore..... Its much more convenient, no stress, no pain. I did it for haltech install, but dont see a reason to not do it for regular stock harness push-thru. Old saying 'being lazy hurts' is usually very true

10-21-2010, 01:07 AM	#15
speedjunkie RCC Loves Me Not You Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Colorado Springs, CO iTrader: (1) Posts: 2,089 Rep Power: 19	I got those fairly easily compared to what I'm hearing from you guys haha. Don't get me wrong, it's still a PITA to do, but not impossible. I ended up removing the three bolts that hold that panel in and pulling the panel down some, but I'm not sure it helped. You should be able to rotate those to another angle and maybe that would help. Also, since the push tab is virtually untouchable with your fingers you could use a flat tip screwdriver just to press the tab and then pull on the wires with your other hand. Or you could possibly use some needle nose pliers and squeeze the tab down (gripping each side of the connector) and then pull it out. Not sure. I've only done it once, and come to find out that harness wasn't the one that was bad LOL so we just plugged it right back in.