hello from New Mexico

[sword181]

Hello all, I am new to the site and looking for a lot of info. I have a very wide background in mechanics both auto and aircraft. I am a old time drag racer and car builder but have never touched a rotary engine but I know they fly. I am planning a build with a 1967 VW Bug, mid engine with a TH 350 and a 8.8 IRS. and am looking for lots of knowledge on what 13B to build. I have access to several late models both 7&8. ps the name is Dave

[GySgtFrank]

Welcome Dave. What are you planning to do with the car when finished. Drag car? Street? If you are looking for big power, you will need to build something with a turbo that can hold lots of boost.

[sword181]

My plans are for a drag car that can be driven some on the street sort of like my old C Gasser from the 60's did some fishing with that car. I would like to build a turbo motor but don't know enough to know what would be the best to build 4 port, 6 port something that started with a turbo and just go bigger. What do you people think?

[GySgtFrank]

Originally Posted by sword181

My plans are for a drag car that can be driven some on the street sort of like my old C Gasser from the 60's did some fishing with that car. I would like to build a turbo motor but don't know enough to know what would be the best to build 4 port, 6 port something that started with a turbo and just go bigger. What do you people think?

I would say to base it on the RE or REW engines that came with a turbo. No need to re-engineer any more than you have to. A TH350 will be pretty much unusable on the street behind a rotary. The stall speeds will have to be extremely high for it to launch well. Something with a manual transaxle might work better. Possibly the rear mounted Corvette transmissions? A rotary is torque challenged so any help it can get with the transmission and gearing will be welcome.

[RICE RACING]

Originally Posted by sword181

My plans are for a drag car that can be driven some on the street sort of like my old C Gasser from the 60's did some fishing with that car. I would like to build a turbo motor but don't know enough to know what would be the best to build 4 port, 6 port something that started with a turbo and just go bigger. What do you people think?

Thank fuk you came here and not gayclub.com with HC kiddergarden cop maths and theory based of a car that can do a 1 mile run !

WELCOME!

First off the meet your stated objective STREET CAR that is drag capable.
WATER INJECTION and pump gas is ALL you will ever need. I have many of them that embarrass full methanol drag only set ups!

13B street port (13B-RE or REW ported out to be RE spec runners with RE inlet manifold.)
BW S369SXE (true 900bhp capable), fitted with Tial rear housing
pump gas and RR water injection

will do in that car 8's and 160mph range easily, simple reliable real street set up.

Welcome again

Other parts to use.
Tial V60
Life Racing F88 ECU (full knock, lambda, traction control etc) ALL WORKS! not internet hype but as used in LeMans 24hours!
I have fully developed rotary engine calibrations and full support for these for anywhere in the world
4 x 2000cc injectors
RR water injection system
Steel Science apex seals
RR coil on plug and M&W pro drag street RR CDI set up

All proper items not a microwreck or 400 add on dildo boxes of cheap nasty electronics

[RICE RACING]

4 ports, RR street ported is all you will ever need. There is allot of total bullshit out there and much wasted effort spent on total crap! like extra peripheral ports and totally butchered housings.

I have the largest and most correct validated data base of rotary engine knowledge anywhere in the world on porting and turbocharging, once you know how to separate the fact from bullshit (takes more than a couple of days on the dyno lol) it is real easy to see that you need nothing more than a correctly done street port and selecting the best OE inlet manifold, that currently is the 13B-RE or COSMO, the REW is a much better engine base and it is easy to port out its inlet runner shape to accept the RE inlet manifold, this then makes the best base engine for your application.

On a real simple level looking at the highest boos levels on the turbo I told you about above for street use and using a Tial 1.06A/R V band housing on a basic linear scale as you increase MAP
1bar 225bhp (0 boost)
2bar 450bhp
3bar 675bhp
4bar 900bhp (43psi boost)

You actually make more power at the lower MAP levels due to higher Ve in those ranges but the above suffices to paint the picture for you.

This is all set up on very conservative engine calibration that will live for years on gas and water injection, dozens of cars running this way, all proven and NOT ONE E85 or ethanol FUCK UP NIGHTMARE ever to deal with! EVER!

Simple Reliable, world leading.

[sword181]

Thank you for all of the information. That will be a great help. Sgt Frank not to sound like a smart ass, but why would a TH350 be more of a problem than a Mazda auto ? I was planning on a 350 or a glide with a high stall and a trans brake. But like I said I no nothing about Rotary Engines.

[RICE RACING]

Here is the power torque curve for the combo I suggest to help you mate up the TC.

[almoststockfc]

How much water is being injected at that boost level?

[RICE RACING]

Originally Posted by almoststockfc

How much water is being injected at that boost level?

That is a 'specific' detail shared with customers of mine only. However its 'normal' and in a drag car application you run many runs on one tank, many.

Street cars will go for a full tank of fuel on one tank of WI with normal duty of full power use.

Circuit related a track session on one tank no problems even on high full throttle demand tracks.

[RICE RACING]

With the RR supplied Life Racing F88 its all tied into the calibration so if the WI tank is low or lost pressure for whatever reason (split tank eg) then it ties in with the boost, knock, lambda control, same for running WM50, unlike other inferior guess work ECU's and dildo box add ons everything is seemlessly integrated so even full load target Lambda is accounted for too.

Its a fool proof system.

I also run Air to Air IC with WS assist system, even at those boost levels ACT is very low, very low! all coming for the same WI tank, and all true street! no ethanol nightmare on elm street blocked injectors or only being able to run the car in a 50 mile radius LOL or carrying mad max fuel drums in tow! and no problem ever running contaminated fuel that WONT be picked up on a E Flex sensor too!!!!

Ethanol is a con!
EFLEX JOKE! >

[GySgtFrank]

Originally Posted by sword181

Thank you for all of the information. That will be a great help. Sgt Frank not to sound like a smart ass, but why would a TH350 be more of a problem than a Mazda auto ? I was planning on a 350 or a glide with a high stall and a trans brake. But like I said I no nothing about Rotary Engines.

Truthfully the TH350 would probably be a lot better than the Mazda auto transmission, except for the lack of a gear. Certainly so in reliability and parts availability. From what I have seen, rotaries don't do well behind any automatic. Then again I am no expert. I haven't seen anyone adapt one of the newer boxes with a lot of gear ratios yet though. The TH350, and even more so the Powerglide, were designed for the massive amounts of torque available from the V8 to get them moving. If you gear down enough to make up the difference on the bottom end, then you lose out on the top end. It all depends upon how much power you are making. If you are pushing 1000+ hp, like the psychotics from Puerto Rico and Australia, none of that applies of course.

The lightweight VW chassis will help a lot, but I would hate to see you disappointed with your results if it doesn't meet your goals. If you are planning to be competitive you might want to talk to the guys at Bola De Humo Racing in Kansas City. They have a seriously fast first gen that they campaign and the actual real world experience in what it takes to put a rotary into the low 7s.

[RICE RACING]

Ebola Da Homo has ZERO experience in making a road car fast, REAL ROAD CAR@!
Any homo can slap on a microwreck and methanol or race fuel and blow more smoke than a cheech and chong movie shit box!@ there are hundreds of ass clowns who can do this, it takes ZERO brains or any skill to do it, just go to any drag track and see the morons (plenty to choose from).

Or do you want an engine that you can drive anywhere and still lay the smack down on the dunce cap logo microwreck brigade????

[RICE RACING]

There is zero need for 1000+hp the engine will be totally a turd, undrivable and NOT usable at all on the street with a power band of less than 1000rpm a total fucking shitbox disaster!

You can make a real engine, that is very powerful totally street use applicable and still dominates on the track, in a much heavier car combo I have them running low 8's at over 160mph! and the engine works and is proven.

You are right you need someone with REAL WORLD EXPERIENCE and there is no one who has more than I have in making REAL ROAD CAR capable turbo engines. There is zero need to put on a turbo as big as the engine or gay ass semi pp or methanol or ethanol or C16 or scotch lock dunce cap #1 retard nintendo game boy sctoch lock hand set joke electronics with matching big sticker on your car.

Be smart about it and make a quality set up man.

[RICE RACING]

The only saving grace of the auto set up on a 13B is that you can get away with a stupid sized turbo, but you will need to run a 6000rpm converter at minimum.

They absorb a retarded amount of power, I did one with a two speed glide and over a third of the engine power was wasted in heating up the gearbox oil via the TC, real nasty set up if you ask me, and you loose about 10mph off your top speed too.

I would never do an auto gearbox on a 13B its just too slow, on the street with that TC you will need a radiator as big as one for the engine! they run stupidly hot and everything gets killed pretty quick! its just a set up that does not work well at all in reality.