FAQ/Bolt Thread and Pitch List

djmtsu · 02-12-2008, 09:36 PM

Please look through this thread before posting in the 2nd Generation Technical section.

This thread was created to answer many of the commonly asked questions that pop up on a regular basis in the 2nd Generation RX-7 Technical/Specific section. It contains a questions and answers collected by all the moderators and many regular members of the 2nd Generation RX-7 specific section.

In this thread there are multiple posts on different subjects, covering subjects such as Engines (including engine swaps, modifications, Turbos, and the quest for more power), Lubricants and Cooling, Electrical, Emissions, Manuals and Links, Specifications, Body (including style updates and modifications), Suspension and driveline, and general questions including subjects like what to look for when buying and how long the cars last.

The following abbreviations are often used here and in the 2nd Generation Specific section:

AAS = Auto Adjusting suspension
ACV = Air Control Valve
AFM = Air Flow Meter (also see MAF)
A-spec = North American Spec
ATF = Automatic transmission fluid
Auto = Automatic transmission
AWS = Accelerated Warm-Up System
BAC = Bypass Air Control
CAS = Crank Angle Sensor
CPU = Central Processing Unit (the Body computer)
DEI = Dynamic Effect Intake (found on 84 and later 13B engines)
DMM = Digital Multi-Meter (required for most electrical testing on cars)
DTSS = Dynamic tracking suspension system (found on all 2nd gen RX-7s)
ECU = Emissions Control Unit (also called Engine Control unit)
EFI = Electronic Fuel Injection
EGI = Electronic Gasoline Injection
EMS = Engine Management System (aftermarket engine computer)
FB = 1st gen RX-7 81-85 production
FC = 2nd gen RX-7 86-92 production
FC3C = 2nd gen RX-7 convertible
FC3S = 2nd gen RX-7 Coupe
FCD = Fuel Cut defender (aftermarket- used only on Turbos with modifed exhaust and stock ECU)
FD = 3rd gen RX-7
FE = RX-8 (sometimes also called SE3P)
FI = Fuel Injection
FMIC = Front Mount Intercooler
GS = Sporty Model (in CAN)
GT = Sporty Model with Turbo
GT Limited = fully loaded every option turbo model.
GTU = Sporty model in 88, base model in 89-90 (in USA)
GTUs = Sporty model in 89-90 (in USA)
GX = Luxury Coupe model (in CAN)
GXL = Top line Luxury non turbo model
J-Spec = Japanese/NZ/AUS spec model
LIM = Lower Intake Manifold
LSD = Limited Slip Differential (sometimes incorrectly called Posi or Positraction which is GM's in-house brand name for their Limited Slip Differential)
MAF = Mass Air Flow sensor
MOP = Metering Oil Pump. Oil Metering Pump as called in the service manual. (also see OMP)
NA = 1st gen Miata
NA = Normally aspirated/ Non turbo
N/A = Normally aspirated/ Non turbo
NB = 2nd gen Miata
NC = 3rd gen Miata
OE = Original Equipment
OEM = Original Equipment Manufacture
OMP = Oil Metering pump
PD = Pulsation Dampener
PS = Power steering
PW = Power windows
SA = 1st gen RX-7 79-80 production
Savanna = The name the 1st and 2nd gen RX-7 was sold under in Japan.
SE = Base model in the USA in 87.5-88
Series 1 / S1 = 1979-1980 RX-7 models
Series 2 / S2 = 1981-1983 RX-7 models
Series 3 / S3 = 1984-1985 RX-7 models
Series 4 / S4 = 1986-1988 RX-7 models
Series 5 / S5 = 1989-1992 RX-7 models
Series 6 / S6 = 1992-1995 RX-7 models
Sport = 86-87 Sporty model (in USA also see GS)
TB = Throttle Body
TBM = Throttle body modification
TID = Turbo Intake Duct
TMIC = Top Mount InterCooler (factory style)
TPS = Throttle position sensor
TII = Turbo model (does not mean twin turbo)
T2 = Turbo model (does not mean twin turbo)
UIM = Upper Intake Manifold
VDI = Variable Dynamic Intake
WOT = Wide Open Throttle
6PI = 6 Port Induction the auxiliary ports, or the not so correct term - 5th/6th ports
13B = Normally aspirated/ Non turbo, 2 rotor, rotary engine.
13BT = Turbo charged, 2 rotor, rotary engine
13B-RE = J-spec Cosmo twin turbo, 2 rotor, rotary engine.
13B-REW = FD twin turbo, 2 rotor, rotary engine.
20B = J-spec Cosmo three rotor, rotary engine.

Can I use a 89-91 (S5) tail light on my 86-88 (S4)?
Yes with minor modifications to the body of the 86-88.
Here is a link on converting: http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/taillights.htm

Will 89-91 (S5) mouldings or bumpers fit on my 86-88 (S4) RX-7?
other than some minor mounting hole differences on the front bumpers, the mouldings and bumpers will fit fine.

What size are my wheels?
The stock sizes all have an offset of 40mm or 40 ET and are:
14x5.5 (steel) w/114.3x4 bolt pattern (Base)
14x5.5 w/ 114.3x4 bolt pattern (Base, Luxury, 87.5-88 SE)
15x6 w/ 114.3x5 bolt pattern (GXL, Sport, GTU, 91 coupe)
15x6.5 w/ 114.3x5 bolt pattern (convertible)
16x7 w/ 114.3x5 bolt pattern (Turbo, GTUs, Infini IV)

In addition please see below in this thread for stock wheel type and weight.

On the same vein, the stock tire sizes are:
14x5.5 = 185/70HR14
15x6 & 15x6.5 = 205/60VR15
16x7 = 205/55VR16

Will 3rd Gen RX-7 (FD) wheels fit on my 2nd Gen RX-7?
If you have 5 lug hubs and use spacers. Typically you need spacers around 25mm (1"), depending on tires

I want to change my wheels to something bigger. What offset should I use???
http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp

Paint Codes:
86-88:
Artic Silver Metallic - J5
Tornado Silver Metallic - K8
Brilliant Black - PZ
Sunrise Red - RH
Crystal White - UC
Dover White - WU
Noble White - WY
Satin Gold Metallic - 1A
Claret Metallic - 2H
Royal Maroon Metallic - 3A
Sapphire Blue Metallic - 5A
True Red - NP

89-92:
Brilliant Black - PZ
Blaze Red - SQ
Crystal White - UC
Winning Silver Metallic - 1F
Shadow Silver Metallic - 3G
Harbor Blue Metallic - 5D
Brave Blue MC - 5N

djmtsu · 02-12-2008, 09:41 PM

Electrical (includes radio wiring and audio as well as warnings/beeps)
My wipers only work on low speed
The wiper switch has a relay inside that has failed. It will need to be replaced. There are several people that replace them, or you can do it yourself.

My tail lights don't work, but my head lights do
The light switch connections may have burnt out. Check the back of the light switch. If they are burnt, you will need to replace the light switch and light switch harness.

My dash lights don't work
Did you check the dimmer control??? If you did and they still don't work the light switch connections may have burnt out. Check the back of the light switch. If they are burnt, you will need to replace the light switch and light switch harness.

What type of bulb is used...
A full listing of the different types of bulbs is found in the Specifications section of this FAQ.

All my warning lights are on
It is normal for all the lights to come on, if the key is on, and the engine is not running, but they should turn of when the engine is running.
With the engine running the Alternator failure warning circuit in the CPU will switch the lights on when the voltage in the car drops under 12 volts. Either your alternator, belts, underhood fuse box connections may have failed. The voltage in the car and the voltmeter on the dash (only in non-turbo models) needs to be above 12.6 volts. If it is below 12.6 volts your alt is not producing enough power to run the car.
You also need it to stay at or above 13.6 volts to charge the battery.

The voltage in my car is Low or High
Normal operating voltage for cars is 14.4 volts. This is where the voltage should be when the engine is running. If it is not at this voltage, there is something wrong with the alternator or charging system or wiring.

13.5 volts is the bare minimum to charge the battery. Anything less than 13.5 volts while the engine is running is bad and indicates that the alternator is failing or mis-wired.

12.6 volts is battery voltage. If the car is at 12.6 volts or lower while the engine is running, then the charging system is not sufficent to even keep the car running and the car is running on the battery. This indicates that the alt has failed, or is disconnected.

Above 15 volts is very bad. 15 volts is the maximum that the electrical system works at. Above 15 volts and there is the potential of burning out electrical parts in the car such as the lights and computers. 15+ volts indicates the regulator in the alternator has failed or is disconnected.

What are the wire colors for adding aftermarket radio
LTBlue/Red= 12v+
LtBlue/White= +Accessory
LtBlue/Yellow= -power ant trigger
Red/Black=+ Lumination
White=Factory Amp Turn on

Ground to the body, use the 10mm bolt behind the center console front drivers access panel. Do not use the Red/Black as ground it will damage the interior light circuit and dimmer in the car

Front Speakers (maximum of a 15 watt peak from the radio):
LtGreen/Red= Left
LtGreen/Black= Left

LtGreen= Right
LtGreen/Yellow=Right

Rear Speakers (if applicable, if you have the amplified rear speakers again the Maximum of 15 watts peak is all the stock speaker amp input can handle):
Brown= Left rear
Brown/White= Left Rear

LtBlue= Right Rear
LtBlue/Orange=Right Rear

Note: as mentioned above the power antenna's trigger is ground (or - ). With all aftermarket radio's antenna output as 12 volts positive (+). To make a stock power antenna work you need a relay wired like this:

Some S4 models will have amplified doors woofers. There will be a round 6 pin low level DIN plug found on these models at the back of the radio.

Stock Speakers / Amps
Speaker Size:
Dash: 130mm (4”)
Door: 160mm or 150mm (6”) (note: true 6.5” speakers are 170mm)
Rear tower: 4” or 6"
Headrest: 3.5”
Rear floorboard: 5.25”

Amp Locations:
Door speaker amps are behind the driver’s dash speaker.
Front dash amps are next to the radio, or on the passenger’s side next to the pass speaker.
Rear amps are next to the radio (6" speakers), or on each speaker (4" rear speakers).
Headrest speaker amp is in the driver’s side just below the B pillar

My reverse lights don't work
Common if you had Clutch or Transmission work done recently to have the wires disconnected at the transmission. Occasionally the reverse light switch will also fail.

I keep hearing a beep beep beep
Probably the power steering computer telling you there is a problem with the system. The number of beeps before pausing will indicate the problem.
1-beep, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of speed sensor signal:
In case broken wires or short circuits occur to sensors or harnesses, the buzzer sounds 60-seconds after the engine speed signal of 2200 rpm continues for 18-seconds.
2-beeps, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of engine speed signal:
The buzzer sounds twice and repeats when the vehicle speed signal is missing input and/or no engine speed signal is found (short circuit, broken wire, etc.)
3-beeps, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of stepping motor signal:
The buzzer sounds when there are broken wires or short circuits in coils or harnesses.
4-beeps, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of the power steering microcomputer:
The buzzer sounds 4 and repeats when there are circuit troubles other than with the micro computer.
5-beeps, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of steering sensor signal: Steering sensor is mis-aligned or failed or steering wheel has been improperly installed.

I keep hearing this loud buzzer every time I hit the red line
Yep, for your protection.

My clock/idiot lights don't work correctly or the clock doesn't hold memory when the key is off
Probably the fuse is blown or you have cold solder joints on the clock/idiot light panel.

My horn doesn't work
Probably bad solder joints in the CPU

djmtsu · 02-12-2008, 09:51 PM

What is this little black box with a single wire and a small metal tab that is mounted near or on the clutch slave cylinder?

It is the Condenser (capacitor) for the Oil Pressure Sender. It is needed to protect the oil pressure gauge from burning out in the event of sender failure, and for smoothing any erratic pluses from the sender.

My RX-7 rev's up to 3000 RPM every time I start it when cold
Yep, part of the accelerated warm up process. Start the car with the clutch pressed in, and the car in gear if you don't want it to do that.

My car doesn't start:

Remember when starting a fuel injected car you should never pump or press the accelerator pedal, but if it won't start it is probably flooded, Hold the accelerator pedal all the way down while cranking, do not pump the pedal. If it still doesn't start after a few tries, Then remove the EGI fuse and crank a couple more times, then re-install the fuse and try starting again. If then the car still fails to start it then you need to remove and clean the spark plugs, put in a teaspoon of good quality 20W50 motor oil or a teaspoon of ATF into the lower sparkplug holes, re-install the spark plugs and try again. Make sure you change your oil after you have started and run the car ASAP.

I just got my car and I want to make it faster, what are the first modifications I should do?
Do a full 60K tune up, replacing all the fluids (including brake, clutch, tranny, engine oil, coolant, and rear end lube), spark plugs and cables, all filters (including fuel, oil and air), belts, any hoses that are leaking or bulging, and the O2 sensor. In addition if the car is more than 10 years old or has more than 120K miles on it, the Pulsation Dampener (or pimary fuel rail and integrated Pulsation Dampener on 89-91 FCs) should be also replaced.

I have this hesitation whenever I accelerate right around 3500-4000 RPM
The dreaded 3800 RPM hesitation is cause 90% of the time by poor ground connections between the engine, the battery, and the car. Clean or replace all the under hood ground connections. On 86 model year cars , replacing/regrounding the pressure sensor's ground wire has helped (do not re-ground a 87 or later model year). If there is still a problem after that, look at cleaning the fuel injectors and (on a N/A) that your 5th/6th ports are operating correctly.

My idle sucks or is erratic
Most likely the TPS is out of adjustment, but here is a further article to help:
http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/idle.html

I think my engine has been overheated. How can I check to see if the coolant seals are good?
Fill coolant system ALL THE WAY UP (engine cold). Make sure that the fluid level is as high as you can get it. Leave the filler cap off. Remove the EGI fuse. Crank the motor (it should not start). If you get a LARGE amount of coolant coming out of the coolant fill, its safe to assume your coolant seals are blown. Also, a good indication is a fuel/exhaust smell in the coolant.

Do I need to upgrade my fuel injectors in my NA?
Most likely, no. The stock NA fuel system can support up to about 250HP, which you will not be anywhere near unless you are running a big bridge port or a peripheral port. The stock NA actually runs quite rich, so you will see some gains by leaning out the mixture quite a bit. Adding larger injectors is just going to cost you power and waste gas.

What size injectors does my RX-7 use? What colour are they?
Year Engine Plug Size Colour Part #
84-85 13B NA, low square center, 680cc, orange, 195500-0900
86-87 13B NA, low square center, 460cc, red, 195500-1350
86-87 13B Turbo, low square center, 550cc, tan, 195500-1370
88 13B NA, high square offset, 460cc, purple, 195500-1350
88 13B Turbo, high square offset, 550cc, purple, 195500-1370
89-91 13B NA, high oval center, 460cc, red, 195500-2010
89-91 13B Turbo, high oval center, 550cc, purple, 195500-2020

My engine cuts out when turning, but there is plenty of gas... whats wrong?
Fuel tank sock is dirty and needs to be cleaned or replaced, and or the baffles in the fuel tank are rusted away.

How long does a rotary engine run? Do I need to rebuild my engine?
Most 13Bs can last over 150-200K miles, while most 13BT engines usually last 125-175K miles, but remember that regular proper maintenance for the engines entire life is required for higher lifespan.

Can I swap a Turbo engine/Jspec engine/13BT/etc into my Non Turbo?
Yes, check these links:

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/ro...conversion.htm

How do I add a turbo to my NA 13B?
What Turbo kits can I add onto my non turbo RX-7?
There are no longer kits formally made at the time of this post, however there are companies from time to time that do make available non turbo to Turbo Kits. Because most of these companies stop building the kits, or go out of business in short time, it is impossible to keep active links for them.

Most people that turbo a non turbo make their own kits:
Using the stock TII turbo, exhaust manifold with spacer, NA intakes and NA ECU:
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/naturbo.htm

Using the stock TII turbo, exhaust manifold, intakes, ECU:
http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread.php?t=37694

Turbo-NA Forum:
http://www.aaroncake.net/forum/forum...boc harged+NA

Will a 3rd Gen RX-7 (FD) twin turbo engine (13B-REW) fit in my 2nd gen RX-7?
The simple answer is No! The motor mounts are in different locations as well as other issues; however if you have enough time and money it can be done. Much of the project will be custom fabricating all the systems that attach to the engine such as the exhaust, intercooler setup, cooling system and wiring. A standalone EMS is almost required and it is very difficult to control the sequential turbos. Most people go to a single turbo because of this. In general this swap is not worth the time and trouble unless you plan on making more then 450 HP.

Here is a basic write up: http://fc3spro.com/TECH/SWAP/FD3S/rew.html

Can I put the RX-8 engine (Renesis) in the 2nd gen?
Well, technically yes. But it is not a simple bolt-in swap. The Renesis uses different mounts, and an entirely different ECU and wiring harness. Anything can be done, but this is much more complicated then swapping any 2nd gen engine into the car. Lots of fabrication, wiring and other things must be done to support this engine. It is generally easier (and probably cheaper) to swap in the 20B three rotor, or the 13B turbo from the Turbo II.

I want to replace my rotary engine with a piston motor, what can I do?
Some people have done that, but it is generally not covered or even recommended to be brought up here in the 2nd Gen Sections, but rather in the Other Engine Section of this board. There are also other websites out there that cater to helping conversion issues.

How much Horsepower did my car come with from the factory?
At the Flywheel ratings:
86-88 NA = 146 HP @ 6500 RPM w/ 138 Ft/lb @ 3500 RPM
86-88 Turbo = 182 @ 6500 RPM w/ 183 Ft/lb @ 3500 RPM
89-91 NA = 160 HP @ 7000 RPM w/ 140 Ft/lb @ 4000 RPM
89-91 Turbo = 200-202 @ 6500 RPM w/ 196 Ft/lb @ 3500 RPM
Infini IV = 215 @ 6500 RPM w/ 206 Ft/lb @ 3500 RPM

What should I look for when buying a 2nd Gen RX-7?
Non Turbo: http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/buy1.htm
Turbo: http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/buy2.htm
General: http://fc3spro.com/TECH/h2b.html

I don't want to buy a shop manual for my car, is there a place where I can still find out the information from one
Shop manuals for both series can be found on-line at:
http://www.cochran-racing.com/FSM/index.html

or (86-88)
http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory...ual/1986_1988/
and (89-91)
http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory...ual/1989_1991/
89-91 Wiring only:
http://s8.photobucket.com/albums/a47/S5_wiring/

What kind of gas mileage does the FC get on average? What can I do to increase mileage?
The FC is a sports car, not a Geo Metro. Therefore, mileage on average seems to hover around 15-18 MPG city, and 23-26 MPG highway. If you are getting less, you either have a heavy foot or your car needs a tuneup.

As for increasing mileage, the first thing that needs to be done is making sure the car is in good tune. Do a full tuneup including plugs, wires, fluids, filters, timing, TPS adjustment and everything specified for the 60K tuneup (see Haynes/Factory service manual). Learn to drive with less of a heavy foot. Accelerate slowly, coast in neutral to stops, and keep the revs below 3800. A vacuum gauge helps (drive for most vacuum), as well as an A/F gauge (try to keep it in closed loop). You can get some great mileage if you are patient.

How long does a rotary engine run? Do I need to rebuild my engine?
Most 13Bs can last over 150-200K miles, while most 13BT engines usually last 125-175K miles, but remember that regular proper maintenance for the engines entire life is required for higher lifespan.

How is the FC in the winter? Is it safe to drive? How does it handle the snow?
Just fine actually. If you know how to drive, driving the FC is like driving any other RWD vehicle. A good set of snow tires is important, but there is nothing fundamentally "wrong" with the FC that makes it a poor winter car. Remember that with like any other light, RWD car, you need to be easy on the throttle and clutch. Take a winter driving course if you are unsure. Also, make sure the car is in good tune. Cold weather can make small mechanical problems into large mechanical problems very quickly. If you live in an area that uses salt on the roads, then it is very important to have the car undercoated (Krown, etc.) every year. Salt eats RX-7s. Aside from that, winter driving can be fun if done safely. Many of us in Canada drive our RX-7s year around.

djmtsu · 02-12-2008, 09:52 PM

What does the VIN number mean/break down??

The North American Vehicle Identification Number breaks down like this:

RX-7 86-88 (8/85 - 12/88)
JM1 FC 33 1 * G 0 ######
JM1= Mazda Passenger Car
FC = RX7 Series
33= Coupe
35= Convertible
1= 1308cc 13B rotary non-turbo
2= 1308cc 13B rotary turbo
*= Check Digit
G= 1986
H= 1987
J= 1988
0= Hiroshima Plant
######= Serial Number

RX-7 89-91 (12/88 - 7/91)
JM1 FC 331 * K 0 ######
JM1= Mazda Passenger Car
FC= RX7 Coupe
33= Coupe
35= Convertible
1= 1308cc rotary non-turbo
2= 1308cc rotary turbo
331= Coupe w/auto shoulder belt
332= Coupe Turbo w/auto shoulder belt
333= Coupe w/o auto shoulder belt
334= Coupe turbo w/o auto shoulder belt
351= Convertible w/o airbag
352= Convertible w/ airbag
*= Check Digit
K= 1989
L= 1990
M= 1991
0= Hiroshima Plant
######= Serial number

Build dates by serial number:
Model year-----Production Date----Serial Number
1986--------------8/85 - 6/86------100001-200000
1987--------------6/86 - 7/87------500001-600000
1988-------------7/87 - 12/88-----600001-700000
1989------------12/88 - 12/89-----700001-800000
1990------------12/89 - 11-90-----800001-900000
1991--------------8/90 - 7/91------900001-950000

djmtsu · 02-12-2008, 09:55 PM

My car seems to use a lot of oil. How often do I need to check it?
Everytime you get gas, you should check your oil level. The Rotary motor by design is supposed to inject oil into the engine based on throttle position. If you keep your foot on the gas a lot, you will use more oil. It is normal to use about 1 quart of oil every 1000 to 3000 miles.

Can I use synthetic oils in my Rotary engined car?
Yes and no. Mazda officially does not recommend the use of synthetic oils in rotary engines, however, long term and racing use has shown that the better synthetics (Redline, Amsoil, Neo, Royal Purple, Mobil1) are perfectly fine to use in a rotary engine, and will generally result in a 1 to 2% horsepower gain. However use of poor quality synthetics (like Valvoline, Castrol Syntec, Havoline, Etc) will result in build up due to high ash content left from these oils when they are burned. It is believed that is why Mazda did not recommend synthetics, because the couldn't pick favorites.

Other notes:
The Mazda Factory racing departments recommend and use ‘synthetic’ oils including the winning 1991 Leman’s 20-G 4 rotor Mazda 787B.

MazdaComp USA printed manual (now Mazdaspeed) recommends the use of synthetic oils for racing conditions.

Redline, Amsoil and Royal Purple Synthetic Motor Oils have been used in rotary engines (both race and street) for ten plus years with excellent results.

Most Synthetic Motor Oil is compatible with the bearing material, sealing elastomer's, and combustion seals used in a rotary engine.

What oil should I use in the FC?
According to Mazda:
In starting and operating temperatures below 20F, use 5W30
In starting and operating temperatures between 0F and 80F, use 10W30.
In starting and operating temperatures above 30F, use 20W50

As far as brand any good quality oil that meets the API SL or SM standards should be fine.

How do I kill that buzzer in the dash that goes off when the cooling system or oil is low?
You need to bleed the coolant or fill the oil. The buzzer is there to help you from blowing up your motor.

I am having trouble keeping the car cool
Do you have:

OEM thermostat? (of KNOWN condition) do not use aftermarket thermostats like Stant in 86-88 engines
The plastic Undertray under the radiator and front of the engine?
A radiator with a clear core and not too many bent fins?
Two belts running your water pump?
OEM rad cap? (of KNOWN condition) (note: the stock pressure ( .9 bar) radiator cap suggested for proper cooling and system health).
A coolant mixture of at least 40% coolant, to 60% distilled water (do not use tap water) or 50/50 mixture (recommended in climates that drop under 0F).

I want to install an electric fan. How well will it cool? How much power does it give me? Which fan, and how do I install it?
In short, you gain a small amount of throttle response when free-revving in neutral, and any power gained (less then 1HP) is almost immeasurable. Cooling will be no better then using the stock clutch fan since the fan is only used at idle or very low speed driving, and it is the thermostat that regulates the temperature of the engine and not the fan. There's really no compelling reason to install an electric fan unless you need the space (FMIC, 20B install, etc.) or your stock clutch fan died. Remember that the stock clutch fan freewheels when it is not needed, so it doesn't suck any power from the engine.

djmtsu · 02-12-2008, 09:55 PM

How much Horsepower did my car come with from the factory?
86-88 NA = 146 HP @ 6500 RPM w/ 138 Ft/lb @ 3500 RPM
86-88 Turbo = 182 @ 6500 RPM w/ 183 Ft/lb @ 3500 RPM
89-91 NA = 160 HP @ 7000 RPM w/ 140 Ft/lb @ 4000 RPM
89-91 Turbo = 200-202 @ 6500 RPM w/ 196 Ft/lb @ 3500 RPM
Infini IV = 215 @ 6500 RPM w/ 206 Ft/lb @ 3500 RPM

What type of bulb is used in my USA spec MAZDA RX-7 in the..

High & low beam headlamp
H6054
H6054ST Silverstar High Performance Lighting: the whitest and brightest Halogen

Parking light
1157

Front turn signal
1157

Rear turn signal
1156

Tail light
1157

Stop light
1157

High mount stop light/Third Brake light
1156

Fog/Driving light
H3C-55W

License plate
168
89

Back up light
1156

Front sidemarker
194

Rear sidemarker
194

Ash tray
158

Map light
168

Dome light
DE3175
168 (spot lights on models equipped with factory sunroof)

Trunk/Cargo area
DE3022

Instrument-general
158
74

Hi-beam indicator
158

Automatic transmission indicator
158

Directional signal indicator in dash
158

djmtsu · 02-12-2008, 09:57 PM

Can I install the Turbo II transmission into an NA?

Certainly. But you need to also install:
-TII flywheel, clutch, pressure plate
-TII slave cylinder
-TII starter
-TII driveshaft, differential, axels
-Adapt the wiring.

MazdaTrix (www.mazdatrix.com) makes a TII transmission to NA rear end driveshaft, so if you don't want to swap your rear end, you can use that shaft instead.

Can I install the RX-8 6 speed transmission into my 2nd Gen RX-7?
5th gear on the FE tranny is the same as the 4th on FC trannys anyway, so there is no real advantage of using the RX-8 tranny, and 6th on the FE tranny is actually taller (.83 vs .71) than the FC, resulting in lower gas mileage at highway speeds.
Using a RX-8 tranny would be like adding a extra gear between 2nd and 3rd to a standard 2nd gen RX-7 M or R type transmission.

Add in, that the RX-8 6 speed transmission is also about 4 inches too short, forcing you either to relocate the shifter 4 inches forward in the car, or move the engine 4 inches backward (towards the firewall) to make it fit in the stock shifter location.

Did my 2nd Gen RX-7 come with a Limited Slip Differential?
Only the following USA model 2nd gen RX-7s had a LSD from the factory:
86-88 GXL
87-91 T2
88 GTU
89-90 GTUs (however not the 89-90 GTU)
It is also rumored that a few rare 91 coupes with both the A (upgraded the interior trim, added a power sunroof, tilt steering wheel, cruise control, and 4 piston front disc brakes and vented single piston rear brakes) and the B package (leather seating, a CD player, and rear cargo cover) came with a LSD, but you should note that Mazda denies that any FC other than the T2 came with a LSD in 91). You can also tell by looking at the differential as there will be a LSD tag on S4 cars with a LSD.

Non US models with LSD info to come

My5ABaby · 03-04-2008, 07:05 PM

This is the list I compiled a while back that is in the Archives on the other forum. Just thought I'd point that out if any "copyright" infringement crap starts.

Engine / Fuel / Coolant System / Lubrication System

Engine / Tranny Mounts:
(1) 14 mm head - Length = 145mm (5 5/8 in) (with head of bolt)135 mm (5 1/4 in) (from bottom of head of bolt to end of bolt). Nut on opposite end. FINE THREAD
(1) 14 mm head - Length = 100 mm (3 15/16 in) (with head of bolt) 90 mm (3 1/2 in) (from bottom of head of bolt to end of bolt). FINE THREAD
(2) 14 mm head - Length = 45 mm (1 3/4 in) (with head of bolt) 35 mm (1 3/8 in) (from bottom of head of bolt to end of bolt). FINE THREAD
(1) 14 mm head - Length = 40 mm (1 1/2 in) (with head of bolt) 30 mm (1 3/16 in) (from bottom of head of bolt to end of bolt). COURSE THREAD (goes under the starter)

Bottom Motor Mount: 12mm x 1.25 pitch

Pulsation Dampener Banjo Bolt: M12 x 1.25

OMP/MOP: N/A, 10mm x 1.0 bolts
TII, 10mm x 1.25

Oil Pan: M6 x 1.00

Oil Injectors: N/A, M10 x 1.0
TII, M10 x 1.25

Oil Injector Lines: NA: 10mm x 1.25
TII (some) : 10mm x 1.00

Oil Cooler: Front Cover is M16 x 1.5 — Rear of engine and both oil cooler are M18 x 1.5

Oil Feed Line Hole: front cover, 16mm x 1.5 thread pitch,
other three, 18mm x 1.5

Oil pressure sensor: 1/8” BSPT – 28 BSP

Primary Fuel Rail Hold-Down (one of two choices): 10mm, M8 x 1.25 12mm, M10 x 1.25

Radiator Bleed and Drain Plugs: 12 x 1.25 x ~10 long

Housing Tension Bolt: M10 x 1.0

Coolant Bleed Screw: M12 x 1.25

Turbo

S4 Turbo-to-Downpipe: 10mm x 1.5

Turbine Housing to Downpipe (S5): M10 x 1.5 ::: The stud is 53mm long with a 10mm threaded end for the housing side and an 18mm threaded end of the downpipe side.

Turbo Water Line Banjo Bolt: M16 x 1.5

Turbo Oil Line from the top of the front iron on the right via banjo bolt, then runs through that metal line to the turbo oil inlet: M12 x 1.5

Steering/Suspension

Steering Column Knuckles: M8 x 1.25

P/S Rack Lines (two): M12 x 1.25

P/S Rack Lines (third, some models): M16 x 1.50

P/S Banjo Bolt: 10mm fine thread (go into the end of the steering link, from the pump)

Front Differential Mount Studs: M12 x 1.50 (same as lug nuts)

Rear Differential Mount Studs: M12 x 1.25

Swaybar Endlinks: M10 x 1.25

Tie Rod Ends: M12 x 1.25

Front A Arm Mounting Bolts: M10 x 0.25 x 14mm head x 18cm length

Transmission/Clutch

S4 Shifter: M12 x 1.5

S5 Shifter: M10 x 1.25

Clutch Slaves: M8 x 1.0 or M7 x 1.0

Flywheel (wrench needed): 2 1/8" or 54mm

Transmission mount, large bolt on bottom of crossmember: M12 x 1.25

Lower Starter Bolt: M10 x 1.50 x 30mm long

Pressure Plate to Flywheel: M8 x 1.00 x 24mm long

Wheels/Brakes

Wheel Studs: M12 x 1.50

The stock sizes all have an offset of 40mm or 40 ET and are:

14 x 6 w/ 114.3 x 4 bolt pattern (Base, Luxury, 87.5-88 SE)

15 x 6 w/ 114.3 x 5 bolt pattern (GXL, Sport, GTU, 91 coupe)

15 x 6.5 w/ 114.3 x 5 bolt pattern (convertible)

16 x7 w/ 114.3 x 5 bolt pattern (Turbo, GTUs, Infini IV)

Brake Rotor Brass Screws: 8mm x 1.25

Brake Caliper Bleeders: M8 x 1.0 and M7 x 1.0 respectively

Exhaust

O2 Sensor: M18 x 1.50

Exhaust Manifold Flange Where the pre-cats attach: M12 x 1.25

Racing Beat Presilencer: M12 x 1.75

N/A Exhaust Manifold: M10 x 1.25

TII Exhaust Manifold Nut: 10mm x 1.5

Other

Thermostat Housing: M6 x 1.0 , short bolts

Thermostat: M12 x 1.25

Skid Plate: 10mm flanges heads ::: probably a 6mm x 1.0

Large bolt going through UIM into LIM : M8, course thread. Length is about 3-4 inches (thats a quote from Aaron )

S4 Air Intake Sensor: M10 x 1.0

Cold Start Assist Sender: 16mm x 1.5

Spoiler: M8 x 1.25

Storage Bin Mounts: M6 x 1.0

Seats: M10 x 1.25 x 1 inch – Fine thread

CAS lockdown nut: 6mm x 1.0

AFM Mounting Bolts that hold the stock airbox bracket on: M6 x 1.0

Fuel Pump Cover: M4 x .70

Bolt Info

http://www.tech.plymouth.ac.uk/sme/desnotes/bolt.htm
http://www.roymech.co.uk/Useful_Tab.../Hex_Screws.htm
http://www.tech.plymouth.ac.uk/sme/desnotes/boltb.htm

djmtsu · 03-07-2008, 01:11 PM

What about the manifold studs? Any info?

Jeff20B · 03-07-2008, 01:41 PM

8mm x 1.25

My5ABaby · 03-07-2008, 01:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeff20B

8mm x 1.25

So I can add them to the list...

What year/model are you referring to or are they universal?

Boostmaniac · 04-23-2008, 11:38 AM

Those should be universal.

vex · 04-21-2009, 11:51 AM

Fuel Pump cover: M4x.70

My5ABaby · 04-21-2009, 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vex

Fuel Pump cover: M4x.70

Added. On a related note... those screws are a serious pain in the ass.

misterstyx69 · 06-09-2009, 07:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by My5ABaby

Added. On a related note... those screws are a serious pain in the ass.

Thanks!!..Needed that Info BAD!.I just had to Frind all 8 of them off,with 3/4 Full tank..(I need to change my Shorts!.lol!).
Front Diff Mount 17mm...diff mount to Subframe 17mm
Driveshaft and Half shaft bolts 14mm.. rear Axle Nut 34 mm..Flywheel Nut 2-1/8inch or 54 mm.

02-12-2008, 09:36 PM	#1
djmtsu My minds tellin' me no... Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Murfreesboro, TN iTrader: (10) Posts: 4,043 Rep Power: 21	2nd Gen (FC3S) FAQ Please look through this thread before posting in the 2nd Generation Technical section. This thread was created to answer many of the commonly asked questions that pop up on a regular basis in the 2nd Generation RX-7 Technical/Specific section. It contains a questions and answers collected by all the moderators and many regular members of the 2nd Generation RX-7 specific section. In this thread there are multiple posts on different subjects, covering subjects such as Engines (including engine swaps, modifications, Turbos, and the quest for more power), Lubricants and Cooling, Electrical, Emissions, Manuals and Links, Specifications, Body (including style updates and modifications), Suspension and driveline, and general questions including subjects like what to look for when buying and how long the cars last. The following abbreviations are often used here and in the 2nd Generation Specific section: AAS = Auto Adjusting suspension ACV = Air Control Valve AFM = Air Flow Meter (also see MAF) A-spec = North American Spec ATF = Automatic transmission fluid Auto = Automatic transmission AWS = Accelerated Warm-Up System BAC = Bypass Air Control CAS = Crank Angle Sensor CPU = Central Processing Unit (the Body computer) DEI = Dynamic Effect Intake (found on 84 and later 13B engines) DMM = Digital Multi-Meter (required for most electrical testing on cars) DTSS = Dynamic tracking suspension system (found on all 2nd gen RX-7s) ECU = Emissions Control Unit (also called Engine Control unit) EFI = Electronic Fuel Injection EGI = Electronic Gasoline Injection EMS = Engine Management System (aftermarket engine computer) FB = 1st gen RX-7 81-85 production FC = 2nd gen RX-7 86-92 production FC3C = 2nd gen RX-7 convertible FC3S = 2nd gen RX-7 Coupe FCD = Fuel Cut defender (aftermarket- used only on Turbos with modifed exhaust and stock ECU) FD = 3rd gen RX-7 FE = RX-8 (sometimes also called SE3P) FI = Fuel Injection FMIC = Front Mount Intercooler GS = Sporty Model (in CAN) GT = Sporty Model with Turbo GT Limited = fully loaded every option turbo model. GTU = Sporty model in 88, base model in 89-90 (in USA) GTUs = Sporty model in 89-90 (in USA) GX = Luxury Coupe model (in CAN) GXL = Top line Luxury non turbo model J-Spec = Japanese/NZ/AUS spec model LIM = Lower Intake Manifold LSD = Limited Slip Differential (sometimes incorrectly called Posi or Positraction which is GM's in-house brand name for their Limited Slip Differential) MAF = Mass Air Flow sensor MOP = Metering Oil Pump. Oil Metering Pump as called in the service manual. (also see OMP) NA = 1st gen Miata NA = Normally aspirated/ Non turbo N/A = Normally aspirated/ Non turbo NB = 2nd gen Miata NC = 3rd gen Miata OE = Original Equipment OEM = Original Equipment Manufacture OMP = Oil Metering pump PD = Pulsation Dampener PS = Power steering PW = Power windows SA = 1st gen RX-7 79-80 production Savanna = The name the 1st and 2nd gen RX-7 was sold under in Japan. SE = Base model in the USA in 87.5-88 Series 1 / S1 = 1979-1980 RX-7 models Series 2 / S2 = 1981-1983 RX-7 models Series 3 / S3 = 1984-1985 RX-7 models Series 4 / S4 = 1986-1988 RX-7 models Series 5 / S5 = 1989-1992 RX-7 models Series 6 / S6 = 1992-1995 RX-7 models Sport = 86-87 Sporty model (in USA also see GS) TB = Throttle Body TBM = Throttle body modification TID = Turbo Intake Duct TMIC = Top Mount InterCooler (factory style) TPS = Throttle position sensor TII = Turbo model (does not mean twin turbo) T2 = Turbo model (does not mean twin turbo) UIM = Upper Intake Manifold VDI = Variable Dynamic Intake WOT = Wide Open Throttle 6PI = 6 Port Induction the auxiliary ports, or the not so correct term - 5th/6th ports 13B = Normally aspirated/ Non turbo, 2 rotor, rotary engine. 13BT = Turbo charged, 2 rotor, rotary engine 13B-RE = J-spec Cosmo twin turbo, 2 rotor, rotary engine. 13B-REW = FD twin turbo, 2 rotor, rotary engine. 20B = J-spec Cosmo three rotor, rotary engine. Can I use a 89-91 (S5) tail light on my 86-88 (S4)? Yes with minor modifications to the body of the 86-88. Here is a link on converting: http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/taillights.htm Will 89-91 (S5) mouldings or bumpers fit on my 86-88 (S4) RX-7? other than some minor mounting hole differences on the front bumpers, the mouldings and bumpers will fit fine. What size are my wheels? The stock sizes all have an offset of 40mm or 40 ET and are: 14x5.5 (steel) w/114.3x4 bolt pattern (Base) 14x5.5 w/ 114.3x4 bolt pattern (Base, Luxury, 87.5-88 SE) 15x6 w/ 114.3x5 bolt pattern (GXL, Sport, GTU, 91 coupe) 15x6.5 w/ 114.3x5 bolt pattern (convertible) 16x7 w/ 114.3x5 bolt pattern (Turbo, GTUs, Infini IV) In addition please see below in this thread for stock wheel type and weight. On the same vein, the stock tire sizes are: 14x5.5 = 185/70HR14 15x6 & 15x6.5 = 205/60VR15 16x7 = 205/55VR16 Will 3rd Gen RX-7 (FD) wheels fit on my 2nd Gen RX-7? If you have 5 lug hubs and use spacers. Typically you need spacers around 25mm (1"), depending on tires I want to change my wheels to something bigger. What offset should I use??? http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp Paint Codes: 86-88: Artic Silver Metallic - J5 Tornado Silver Metallic - K8 Brilliant Black - PZ Sunrise Red - RH Crystal White - UC Dover White - WU Noble White - WY Satin Gold Metallic - 1A Claret Metallic - 2H Royal Maroon Metallic - 3A Sapphire Blue Metallic - 5A True Red - NP 89-92: Brilliant Black - PZ Blaze Red - SQ Crystal White - UC Winning Silver Metallic - 1F Shadow Silver Metallic - 3G Harbor Blue Metallic - 5D Brave Blue MC - 5N __________________ 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 2003 Toyota Tundra TRD 2015 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Last edited by Phoenix7; 07-21-2009 at 08:33 PM..

02-12-2008, 09:41 PM	#2
djmtsu My minds tellin' me no... Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Murfreesboro, TN iTrader: (10) Posts: 4,043 Rep Power: 21	Electrical (includes radio wiring and audio as well as warnings/beeps) My wipers only work on low speed The wiper switch has a relay inside that has failed. It will need to be replaced. There are several people that replace them, or you can do it yourself. My tail lights don't work, but my head lights do The light switch connections may have burnt out. Check the back of the light switch. If they are burnt, you will need to replace the light switch and light switch harness. My dash lights don't work Did you check the dimmer control??? If you did and they still don't work the light switch connections may have burnt out. Check the back of the light switch. If they are burnt, you will need to replace the light switch and light switch harness. What type of bulb is used... A full listing of the different types of bulbs is found in the Specifications section of this FAQ. All my warning lights are on It is normal for all the lights to come on, if the key is on, and the engine is not running, but they should turn of when the engine is running. With the engine running the Alternator failure warning circuit in the CPU will switch the lights on when the voltage in the car drops under 12 volts. Either your alternator, belts, underhood fuse box connections may have failed. The voltage in the car and the voltmeter on the dash (only in non-turbo models) needs to be above 12.6 volts. If it is below 12.6 volts your alt is not producing enough power to run the car. You also need it to stay at or above 13.6 volts to charge the battery. The voltage in my car is Low or High Normal operating voltage for cars is 14.4 volts. This is where the voltage should be when the engine is running. If it is not at this voltage, there is something wrong with the alternator or charging system or wiring. 13.5 volts is the bare minimum to charge the battery. Anything less than 13.5 volts while the engine is running is bad and indicates that the alternator is failing or mis-wired. 12.6 volts is battery voltage. If the car is at 12.6 volts or lower while the engine is running, then the charging system is not sufficent to even keep the car running and the car is running on the battery. This indicates that the alt has failed, or is disconnected. Above 15 volts is very bad. 15 volts is the maximum that the electrical system works at. Above 15 volts and there is the potential of burning out electrical parts in the car such as the lights and computers. 15+ volts indicates the regulator in the alternator has failed or is disconnected. What are the wire colors for adding aftermarket radio LTBlue/Red= 12v+ LtBlue/White= +Accessory LtBlue/Yellow= -power ant trigger Red/Black=+ Lumination White=Factory Amp Turn on Ground to the body, use the 10mm bolt behind the center console front drivers access panel. Do not use the Red/Black as ground it will damage the interior light circuit and dimmer in the car Front Speakers (maximum of a 15 watt peak from the radio): LtGreen/Red= Left LtGreen/Black= Left LtGreen= Right LtGreen/Yellow=Right Rear Speakers (if applicable, if you have the amplified rear speakers again the Maximum of 15 watts peak is all the stock speaker amp input can handle): Brown= Left rear Brown/White= Left Rear LtBlue= Right Rear LtBlue/Orange=Right Rear Note: as mentioned above the power antenna's trigger is ground (or - ). With all aftermarket radio's antenna output as 12 volts positive (+). To make a stock power antenna work you need a relay wired like this: Some S4 models will have amplified doors woofers. There will be a round 6 pin low level DIN plug found on these models at the back of the radio. Stock Speakers / Amps Speaker Size: Dash: 130mm (4”) Door: 160mm or 150mm (6”) (note: true 6.5” speakers are 170mm) Rear tower: 4” or 6" Headrest: 3.5” Rear floorboard: 5.25” Amp Locations: Door speaker amps are behind the driver’s dash speaker. Front dash amps are next to the radio, or on the passenger’s side next to the pass speaker. Rear amps are next to the radio (6" speakers), or on each speaker (4" rear speakers). Headrest speaker amp is in the driver’s side just below the B pillar My reverse lights don't work Common if you had Clutch or Transmission work done recently to have the wires disconnected at the transmission. Occasionally the reverse light switch will also fail. I keep hearing a beep beep beep Probably the power steering computer telling you there is a problem with the system. The number of beeps before pausing will indicate the problem. 1-beep, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of speed sensor signal: In case broken wires or short circuits occur to sensors or harnesses, the buzzer sounds 60-seconds after the engine speed signal of 2200 rpm continues for 18-seconds. 2-beeps, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of engine speed signal: The buzzer sounds twice and repeats when the vehicle speed signal is missing input and/or no engine speed signal is found (short circuit, broken wire, etc.) 3-beeps, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of stepping motor signal: The buzzer sounds when there are broken wires or short circuits in coils or harnesses. 4-beeps, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of the power steering microcomputer: The buzzer sounds 4 and repeats when there are circuit troubles other than with the micro computer. 5-beeps, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of steering sensor signal: Steering sensor is mis-aligned or failed or steering wheel has been improperly installed. I keep hearing this loud buzzer every time I hit the red line Yep, for your protection. My clock/idiot lights don't work correctly or the clock doesn't hold memory when the key is off Probably the fuse is blown or you have cold solder joints on the clock/idiot light panel. My horn doesn't work Probably bad solder joints in the CPU __________________ 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 2003 Toyota Tundra TRD 2015 Toyota 4Runner SR5

02-12-2008, 09:51 PM	#3
djmtsu My minds tellin' me no... Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Murfreesboro, TN iTrader: (10) Posts: 4,043 Rep Power: 21	What is this little black box with a single wire and a small metal tab that is mounted near or on the clutch slave cylinder? It is the Condenser (capacitor) for the Oil Pressure Sender. It is needed to protect the oil pressure gauge from burning out in the event of sender failure, and for smoothing any erratic pluses from the sender. My RX-7 rev's up to 3000 RPM every time I start it when cold Yep, part of the accelerated warm up process. Start the car with the clutch pressed in, and the car in gear if you don't want it to do that. My car doesn't start: Remember when starting a fuel injected car you should never pump or press the accelerator pedal, but if it won't start it is probably flooded, Hold the accelerator pedal all the way down while cranking, do not pump the pedal. If it still doesn't start after a few tries, Then remove the EGI fuse and crank a couple more times, then re-install the fuse and try starting again. If then the car still fails to start it then you need to remove and clean the spark plugs, put in a teaspoon of good quality 20W50 motor oil or a teaspoon of ATF into the lower sparkplug holes, re-install the spark plugs and try again. Make sure you change your oil after you have started and run the car ASAP. I just got my car and I want to make it faster, what are the first modifications I should do? Do a full 60K tune up, replacing all the fluids (including brake, clutch, tranny, engine oil, coolant, and rear end lube), spark plugs and cables, all filters (including fuel, oil and air), belts, any hoses that are leaking or bulging, and the O2 sensor. In addition if the car is more than 10 years old or has more than 120K miles on it, the Pulsation Dampener (or pimary fuel rail and integrated Pulsation Dampener on 89-91 FCs) should be also replaced. I have this hesitation whenever I accelerate right around 3500-4000 RPM The dreaded 3800 RPM hesitation is cause 90% of the time by poor ground connections between the engine, the battery, and the car. Clean or replace all the under hood ground connections. On 86 model year cars , replacing/regrounding the pressure sensor's ground wire has helped (do not re-ground a 87 or later model year). If there is still a problem after that, look at cleaning the fuel injectors and (on a N/A) that your 5th/6th ports are operating correctly. My idle sucks or is erratic Most likely the TPS is out of adjustment, but here is a further article to help: http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/idle.html I think my engine has been overheated. How can I check to see if the coolant seals are good? Fill coolant system ALL THE WAY UP (engine cold). Make sure that the fluid level is as high as you can get it. Leave the filler cap off. Remove the EGI fuse. Crank the motor (it should not start). If you get a LARGE amount of coolant coming out of the coolant fill, its safe to assume your coolant seals are blown. Also, a good indication is a fuel/exhaust smell in the coolant. Do I need to upgrade my fuel injectors in my NA? Most likely, no. The stock NA fuel system can support up to about 250HP, which you will not be anywhere near unless you are running a big bridge port or a peripheral port. The stock NA actually runs quite rich, so you will see some gains by leaning out the mixture quite a bit. Adding larger injectors is just going to cost you power and waste gas. What size injectors does my RX-7 use? What colour are they? Year Engine Plug Size Colour Part # 84-85 13B NA, low square center, 680cc, orange, 195500-0900 86-87 13B NA, low square center, 460cc, red, 195500-1350 86-87 13B Turbo, low square center, 550cc, tan, 195500-1370 88 13B NA, high square offset, 460cc, purple, 195500-1350 88 13B Turbo, high square offset, 550cc, purple, 195500-1370 89-91 13B NA, high oval center, 460cc, red, 195500-2010 89-91 13B Turbo, high oval center, 550cc, purple, 195500-2020 My engine cuts out when turning, but there is plenty of gas... whats wrong? Fuel tank sock is dirty and needs to be cleaned or replaced, and or the baffles in the fuel tank are rusted away. How long does a rotary engine run? Do I need to rebuild my engine? Most 13Bs can last over 150-200K miles, while most 13BT engines usually last 125-175K miles, but remember that regular proper maintenance for the engines entire life is required for higher lifespan. Can I swap a Turbo engine/Jspec engine/13BT/etc into my Non Turbo? Yes, check these links: http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/ro...conversion.htm How do I add a turbo to my NA 13B? What Turbo kits can I add onto my non turbo RX-7? There are no longer kits formally made at the time of this post, however there are companies from time to time that do make available non turbo to Turbo Kits. Because most of these companies stop building the kits, or go out of business in short time, it is impossible to keep active links for them. Most people that turbo a non turbo make their own kits: Using the stock TII turbo, exhaust manifold with spacer, NA intakes and NA ECU: http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/naturbo.htm Using the stock TII turbo, exhaust manifold, intakes, ECU: http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread.php?t=37694 Turbo-NA Forum: http://www.aaroncake.net/forum/forum...boc harged+NA Will a 3rd Gen RX-7 (FD) twin turbo engine (13B-REW) fit in my 2nd gen RX-7? The simple answer is No! The motor mounts are in different locations as well as other issues; however if you have enough time and money it can be done. Much of the project will be custom fabricating all the systems that attach to the engine such as the exhaust, intercooler setup, cooling system and wiring. A standalone EMS is almost required and it is very difficult to control the sequential turbos. Most people go to a single turbo because of this. In general this swap is not worth the time and trouble unless you plan on making more then 450 HP. Here is a basic write up: http://fc3spro.com/TECH/SWAP/FD3S/rew.html Can I put the RX-8 engine (Renesis) in the 2nd gen? Well, technically yes. But it is not a simple bolt-in swap. The Renesis uses different mounts, and an entirely different ECU and wiring harness. Anything can be done, but this is much more complicated then swapping any 2nd gen engine into the car. Lots of fabrication, wiring and other things must be done to support this engine. It is generally easier (and probably cheaper) to swap in the 20B three rotor, or the 13B turbo from the Turbo II. I want to replace my rotary engine with a piston motor, what can I do? Some people have done that, but it is generally not covered or even recommended to be brought up here in the 2nd Gen Sections, but rather in the Other Engine Section of this board. There are also other websites out there that cater to helping conversion issues. How much Horsepower did my car come with from the factory? At the Flywheel ratings: 86-88 NA = 146 HP @ 6500 RPM w/ 138 Ft/lb @ 3500 RPM 86-88 Turbo = 182 @ 6500 RPM w/ 183 Ft/lb @ 3500 RPM 89-91 NA = 160 HP @ 7000 RPM w/ 140 Ft/lb @ 4000 RPM 89-91 Turbo = 200-202 @ 6500 RPM w/ 196 Ft/lb @ 3500 RPM Infini IV = 215 @ 6500 RPM w/ 206 Ft/lb @ 3500 RPM What should I look for when buying a 2nd Gen RX-7? Non Turbo: http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/buy1.htm Turbo: http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/buy2.htm General: http://fc3spro.com/TECH/h2b.html I don't want to buy a shop manual for my car, is there a place where I can still find out the information from one Shop manuals for both series can be found on-line at: http://www.cochran-racing.com/FSM/index.html or (86-88) http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory...ual/1986_1988/ and (89-91) http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory...ual/1989_1991/ 89-91 Wiring only: http://s8.photobucket.com/albums/a47/S5_wiring/ What kind of gas mileage does the FC get on average? What can I do to increase mileage? The FC is a sports car, not a Geo Metro. Therefore, mileage on average seems to hover around 15-18 MPG city, and 23-26 MPG highway. If you are getting less, you either have a heavy foot or your car needs a tuneup. As for increasing mileage, the first thing that needs to be done is making sure the car is in good tune. Do a full tuneup including plugs, wires, fluids, filters, timing, TPS adjustment and everything specified for the 60K tuneup (see Haynes/Factory service manual). Learn to drive with less of a heavy foot. Accelerate slowly, coast in neutral to stops, and keep the revs below 3800. A vacuum gauge helps (drive for most vacuum), as well as an A/F gauge (try to keep it in closed loop). You can get some great mileage if you are patient. How long does a rotary engine run? Do I need to rebuild my engine? Most 13Bs can last over 150-200K miles, while most 13BT engines usually last 125-175K miles, but remember that regular proper maintenance for the engines entire life is required for higher lifespan. How is the FC in the winter? Is it safe to drive? How does it handle the snow? Just fine actually. If you know how to drive, driving the FC is like driving any other RWD vehicle. A good set of snow tires is important, but there is nothing fundamentally "wrong" with the FC that makes it a poor winter car. Remember that with like any other light, RWD car, you need to be easy on the throttle and clutch. Take a winter driving course if you are unsure. Also, make sure the car is in good tune. Cold weather can make small mechanical problems into large mechanical problems very quickly. If you live in an area that uses salt on the roads, then it is very important to have the car undercoated (Krown, etc.) every year. Salt eats RX-7s. Aside from that, winter driving can be fun if done safely. Many of us in Canada drive our RX-7s year around. __________________ 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 2003 Toyota Tundra TRD 2015 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Last edited by djmtsu; 02-12-2008 at 09:54 PM..

02-12-2008, 09:52 PM	#4
djmtsu My minds tellin' me no... Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Murfreesboro, TN iTrader: (10) Posts: 4,043 Rep Power: 21	What does the VIN number mean/break down?? The North American Vehicle Identification Number breaks down like this: RX-7 86-88 (8/85 - 12/88) JM1 FC 33 1 * G 0 ###### JM1= Mazda Passenger Car FC = RX7 Series 33= Coupe 35= Convertible 1= 1308cc 13B rotary non-turbo 2= 1308cc 13B rotary turbo = Check Digit G= 1986 H= 1987 J= 1988 0= Hiroshima Plant ######= Serial Number RX-7 89-91 (12/88 - 7/91) JM1 FC 331 K 0 ###### JM1= Mazda Passenger Car FC= RX7 Coupe 33= Coupe 35= Convertible 1= 1308cc rotary non-turbo 2= 1308cc rotary turbo 331= Coupe w/auto shoulder belt 332= Coupe Turbo w/auto shoulder belt 333= Coupe w/o auto shoulder belt 334= Coupe turbo w/o auto shoulder belt 351= Convertible w/o airbag 352= Convertible w/ airbag *= Check Digit K= 1989 L= 1990 M= 1991 0= Hiroshima Plant ######= Serial number Build dates by serial number: Model year-----Production Date----Serial Number 1986--------------8/85 - 6/86------100001-200000 1987--------------6/86 - 7/87------500001-600000 1988-------------7/87 - 12/88-----600001-700000 1989------------12/88 - 12/89-----700001-800000 1990------------12/89 - 11-90-----800001-900000 1991--------------8/90 - 7/91------900001-950000 __________________ 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 2003 Toyota Tundra TRD 2015 Toyota 4Runner SR5

02-12-2008, 09:55 PM	#5
djmtsu My minds tellin' me no... Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Murfreesboro, TN iTrader: (10) Posts: 4,043 Rep Power: 21	My car seems to use a lot of oil. How often do I need to check it? Everytime you get gas, you should check your oil level. The Rotary motor by design is supposed to inject oil into the engine based on throttle position. If you keep your foot on the gas a lot, you will use more oil. It is normal to use about 1 quart of oil every 1000 to 3000 miles. Can I use synthetic oils in my Rotary engined car? Yes and no. Mazda officially does not recommend the use of synthetic oils in rotary engines, however, long term and racing use has shown that the better synthetics (Redline, Amsoil, Neo, Royal Purple, Mobil1) are perfectly fine to use in a rotary engine, and will generally result in a 1 to 2% horsepower gain. However use of poor quality synthetics (like Valvoline, Castrol Syntec, Havoline, Etc) will result in build up due to high ash content left from these oils when they are burned. It is believed that is why Mazda did not recommend synthetics, because the couldn't pick favorites. Other notes: The Mazda Factory racing departments recommend and use ‘synthetic’ oils including the winning 1991 Leman’s 20-G 4 rotor Mazda 787B. MazdaComp USA printed manual (now Mazdaspeed) recommends the use of synthetic oils for racing conditions. Redline, Amsoil and Royal Purple Synthetic Motor Oils have been used in rotary engines (both race and street) for ten plus years with excellent results. Most Synthetic Motor Oil is compatible with the bearing material, sealing elastomer's, and combustion seals used in a rotary engine. What oil should I use in the FC? According to Mazda: In starting and operating temperatures below 20F, use 5W30 In starting and operating temperatures between 0F and 80F, use 10W30. In starting and operating temperatures above 30F, use 20W50 As far as brand any good quality oil that meets the API SL or SM standards should be fine. How do I kill that buzzer in the dash that goes off when the cooling system or oil is low? You need to bleed the coolant or fill the oil. The buzzer is there to help you from blowing up your motor. I am having trouble keeping the car cool Do you have: OEM thermostat? (of KNOWN condition) do not use aftermarket thermostats like Stant in 86-88 engines The plastic Undertray under the radiator and front of the engine? A radiator with a clear core and not too many bent fins? Two belts running your water pump? OEM rad cap? (of KNOWN condition) (note: the stock pressure ( .9 bar) radiator cap suggested for proper cooling and system health). A coolant mixture of at least 40% coolant, to 60% distilled water (do not use tap water) or 50/50 mixture (recommended in climates that drop under 0F). I want to install an electric fan. How well will it cool? How much power does it give me? Which fan, and how do I install it? In short, you gain a small amount of throttle response when free-revving in neutral, and any power gained (less then 1HP) is almost immeasurable. Cooling will be no better then using the stock clutch fan since the fan is only used at idle or very low speed driving, and it is the thermostat that regulates the temperature of the engine and not the fan. There's really no compelling reason to install an electric fan unless you need the space (FMIC, 20B install, etc.) or your stock clutch fan died. Remember that the stock clutch fan freewheels when it is not needed, so it doesn't suck any power from the engine. __________________ 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 2003 Toyota Tundra TRD 2015 Toyota 4Runner SR5

02-12-2008, 09:57 PM	#7
djmtsu My minds tellin' me no... Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Murfreesboro, TN iTrader: (10) Posts: 4,043 Rep Power: 21	Can I install the Turbo II transmission into an NA? Certainly. But you need to also install: -TII flywheel, clutch, pressure plate -TII slave cylinder -TII starter -TII driveshaft, differential, axels -Adapt the wiring. MazdaTrix (www.mazdatrix.com) makes a TII transmission to NA rear end driveshaft, so if you don't want to swap your rear end, you can use that shaft instead. Can I install the RX-8 6 speed transmission into my 2nd Gen RX-7? 5th gear on the FE tranny is the same as the 4th on FC trannys anyway, so there is no real advantage of using the RX-8 tranny, and 6th on the FE tranny is actually taller (.83 vs .71) than the FC, resulting in lower gas mileage at highway speeds. Using a RX-8 tranny would be like adding a extra gear between 2nd and 3rd to a standard 2nd gen RX-7 M or R type transmission. Add in, that the RX-8 6 speed transmission is also about 4 inches too short, forcing you either to relocate the shifter 4 inches forward in the car, or move the engine 4 inches backward (towards the firewall) to make it fit in the stock shifter location. Did my 2nd Gen RX-7 come with a Limited Slip Differential? Only the following USA model 2nd gen RX-7s had a LSD from the factory: 86-88 GXL 87-91 T2 88 GTU 89-90 GTUs (however not the 89-90 GTU) It is also rumored that a few rare 91 coupes with both the A (upgraded the interior trim, added a power sunroof, tilt steering wheel, cruise control, and 4 piston front disc brakes and vented single piston rear brakes) and the B package (leather seating, a CD player, and rear cargo cover) came with a LSD, but you should note that Mazda denies that any FC other than the T2 came with a LSD in 91). You can also tell by looking at the differential as there will be a LSD tag on S4 cars with a LSD. Non US models with LSD info to come __________________ 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 2003 Toyota Tundra TRD 2015 Toyota 4Runner SR5

03-04-2008, 07:05 PM	#8
My5ABaby Sigh..... Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Murfreesboro, TN iTrader: (6) Posts: 2,377 Rep Power: 19	Bolt Thread and Pitch List This is the list I compiled a while back that is in the Archives on the other forum. Just thought I'd point that out if any "copyright" infringement crap starts. Engine / Fuel / Coolant System / Lubrication System Engine / Tranny Mounts: (1) 14 mm head - Length = 145mm (5 5/8 in) (with head of bolt)135 mm (5 1/4 in) (from bottom of head of bolt to end of bolt). Nut on opposite end. FINE THREAD (1) 14 mm head - Length = 100 mm (3 15/16 in) (with head of bolt) 90 mm (3 1/2 in) (from bottom of head of bolt to end of bolt). FINE THREAD (2) 14 mm head - Length = 45 mm (1 3/4 in) (with head of bolt) 35 mm (1 3/8 in) (from bottom of head of bolt to end of bolt). FINE THREAD (1) 14 mm head - Length = 40 mm (1 1/2 in) (with head of bolt) 30 mm (1 3/16 in) (from bottom of head of bolt to end of bolt). COURSE THREAD (goes under the starter) Bottom Motor Mount: 12mm x 1.25 pitch Pulsation Dampener Banjo Bolt: M12 x 1.25 OMP/MOP: N/A, 10mm x 1.0 bolts TII, 10mm x 1.25 Oil Pan: M6 x 1.00 Oil Injectors: N/A, M10 x 1.0 TII, M10 x 1.25 Oil Injector Lines: NA: 10mm x 1.25 TII (some) : 10mm x 1.00 Oil Cooler: Front Cover is M16 x 1.5 — Rear of engine and both oil cooler are M18 x 1.5 Oil Feed Line Hole: front cover, 16mm x 1.5 thread pitch, other three, 18mm x 1.5 Oil pressure sensor: 1/8” BSPT – 28 BSP Primary Fuel Rail Hold-Down (one of two choices): 10mm, M8 x 1.25 12mm, M10 x 1.25 Radiator Bleed and Drain Plugs: 12 x 1.25 x ~10 long Housing Tension Bolt: M10 x 1.0 Coolant Bleed Screw: M12 x 1.25 Turbo S4 Turbo-to-Downpipe: 10mm x 1.5 Turbine Housing to Downpipe (S5): M10 x 1.5 ::: The stud is 53mm long with a 10mm threaded end for the housing side and an 18mm threaded end of the downpipe side. Turbo Water Line Banjo Bolt: M16 x 1.5 Turbo Oil Line from the top of the front iron on the right via banjo bolt, then runs through that metal line to the turbo oil inlet: M12 x 1.5 Steering/Suspension Steering Column Knuckles: M8 x 1.25 P/S Rack Lines (two): M12 x 1.25 P/S Rack Lines (third, some models): M16 x 1.50 P/S Banjo Bolt: 10mm fine thread (go into the end of the steering link, from the pump) Front Differential Mount Studs: M12 x 1.50 (same as lug nuts) Rear Differential Mount Studs: M12 x 1.25 Swaybar Endlinks: M10 x 1.25 Tie Rod Ends: M12 x 1.25 Front A Arm Mounting Bolts: M10 x 0.25 x 14mm head x 18cm length Transmission/Clutch S4 Shifter: M12 x 1.5 S5 Shifter: M10 x 1.25 Clutch Slaves: M8 x 1.0 or M7 x 1.0 Flywheel (wrench needed): 2 1/8" or 54mm Transmission mount, large bolt on bottom of crossmember: M12 x 1.25 Lower Starter Bolt: M10 x 1.50 x 30mm long Pressure Plate to Flywheel: M8 x 1.00 x 24mm long Wheels/Brakes Wheel Studs: M12 x 1.50 The stock sizes all have an offset of 40mm or 40 ET and are: 14 x 6 w/ 114.3 x 4 bolt pattern (Base, Luxury, 87.5-88 SE) 15 x 6 w/ 114.3 x 5 bolt pattern (GXL, Sport, GTU, 91 coupe) 15 x 6.5 w/ 114.3 x 5 bolt pattern (convertible) 16 x7 w/ 114.3 x 5 bolt pattern (Turbo, GTUs, Infini IV) Brake Rotor Brass Screws: 8mm x 1.25 Brake Caliper Bleeders: M8 x 1.0 and M7 x 1.0 respectively Exhaust O2 Sensor: M18 x 1.50 Exhaust Manifold Flange Where the pre-cats attach: M12 x 1.25 Racing Beat Presilencer: M12 x 1.75 N/A Exhaust Manifold: M10 x 1.25 TII Exhaust Manifold Nut: 10mm x 1.5 Other Thermostat Housing: M6 x 1.0 , short bolts Thermostat: M12 x 1.25 Skid Plate: 10mm flanges heads ::: probably a 6mm x 1.0 Large bolt going through UIM into LIM : M8, course thread. Length is about 3-4 inches (thats a quote from Aaron ) S4 Air Intake Sensor: M10 x 1.0 Cold Start Assist Sender: 16mm x 1.5 Spoiler: M8 x 1.25 Storage Bin Mounts: M6 x 1.0 Seats: M10 x 1.25 x 1 inch – Fine thread CAS lockdown nut: 6mm x 1.0 AFM Mounting Bolts that hold the stock airbox bracket on: M6 x 1.0 Fuel Pump Cover: M4 x .70 Bolt Info http://www.tech.plymouth.ac.uk/sme/desnotes/bolt.htm http://www.roymech.co.uk/Useful_Tab.../Hex_Screws.htm http://www.tech.plymouth.ac.uk/sme/desnotes/boltb.htm Last edited by My5ABaby; 04-21-2009 at 12:15 PM..

03-07-2008, 01:11 PM	#9
djmtsu My minds tellin' me no... Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Murfreesboro, TN iTrader: (10) Posts: 4,043 Rep Power: 21	What about the manifold studs? Any info? __________________ 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 2003 Toyota Tundra TRD 2015 Toyota 4Runner SR5

03-07-2008, 01:41 PM	#10
Jeff20B Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 iTrader: (1) Posts: 215 Rep Power: 17	8mm x 1.25

04-23-2008, 11:38 AM	#12
Boostmaniac Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2008 iTrader: (0) Posts: 182 Rep Power: 0	Those should be universal.

04-21-2009, 11:51 AM	#13
vex RCC Loves Me Not You Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Influx. iTrader: (6) Posts: 2,113 Rep Power: 19	Fuel Pump cover: M4x.70 __________________ The Official FC Radiator Thread My Project Thread: Cerberus CCVT Virginia Rotary Group