Oem Electrical Connectors

vex · 02-28-2011, 08:35 AM

Anyone have any sources for a place that sells OEM style electrical connectors? For instance: Crimp pieces for BAC, TPS, Water Temp, etc.

My5ABaby · 02-28-2011, 09:15 AM

Eastern Beaver may.

vex · 02-28-2011, 10:26 AM

I tried hunting through their website, but I'm not seeing any of the one's I'm looking for (might have found the TPS). Is there someplace specific on there you are thinking of?

My5ABaby · 02-28-2011, 12:59 PM

No, I haven't looked through the page much. It was just referenced for me by a couple people. I plan on either using Metripacks or cutting off the stock connectors and butt connecting them to the wiring.

88turboii · 02-28-2011, 01:37 PM

i dont have any part numbers, but you could try poking around these:

http://www.mouser.com/Interconnects/...ors/_/N-1ehb5/
http://www.alliedelec.com/connectors/

btw, does anybody have a part number or source for stock ecu connectors?

rx7 FC TII · 02-28-2011, 11:04 PM

try blackdragonauto.com

they might have the connectors.

vex · 02-28-2011, 11:06 PM

looks like they don't have FC parts anymore:
http://www.blackdragonauto.com/carcatalog.htm

Howru · 03-01-2011, 02:41 AM

I got a set at Vintage Connections. The 4 and 6 pin connectors work, but on the 2-pin and 3-pin T connectors the retaining tang on the pin is positioned differently. They work, but need a bit of force to get them locked together.

***TitaniumTT*** · 03-01-2011, 09:22 AM

The only one you REALLY need is the BAC there T. The others are the same as some aftermkt Bosch units. The BAC connector is the only one that I raped from a factory harness and butt connected to the harness. Not happy about it but whatever. The other sensors you should be swapping out anyway.

The other option is to get some small Fast-on terminals, drop a bit of solder on the pins, and then fill the void with epoxy and add a 2-pin deutsch or metripak connector.

vex · 03-01-2011, 09:57 AM

More work than I'm willing to do. As it currently stands TTT; I'm having to retain my craptacular intake manifold (no new goodness for me), which means my TPS and BAC valve are being kept until I have the funds, time, and means to build the new intake manifold with the LS TB.

The water temp sensor I thought I could keep stock and be okay with? I'll be re-doing a lot of sensors including a Fuel Pressure sensor (I know you like it), air temperature sensor, new oil pressure sensor, and a 3 bar GM sensor so I can grow with the boost (I'm also picking up a boost control solenoid).

As others have mentioned, my biggest concern is sourcing a BAC connector, mine has seen better days.

***TitaniumTT*** · 03-01-2011, 10:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vex

More work than I'm willing to do. As it currently stands TTT; I'm having to retain my craptacular intake manifold (no new goodness for me), which means my TPS and BAC valve are being kept until I have the funds, time, and means to build the new intake manifold with the LS TB.

What's more work? soldering and epoxing in a few wires?

You should be able to find a connector kit for the TPS... call Motec?

Quote:

Originally Posted by vex

The water temp sensor I thought I could keep stock and be okay with? I'll be re-doing a lot of sensors including a Fuel Pressure sensor (I know you like it), air temperature sensor, new oil pressure sensor, and a 3 bar GM sensor so I can grow with the boost (I'm also picking up a boost control solenoid).

You might be able to keep the stock coolant temp sensor, but why? They can be had with a connector kit for $38?

Quote:

Originally Posted by vex

As others have mentioned, my biggest concern is sourcing a BAC connector, mine has seen better days.

I was never able to find a replacement socket and terminals for the BAC. Only option is either the teminal/epoxy route or rape a connector from a different harness.

vex · 03-01-2011, 10:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

What's more work? soldering and epoxing in a few wires?

Epoxying yes. Soldering not so much.

I think I might honestly just clip my BAC connector from my factory harness, solder it on the Haltech harness (I know, I know, but I'm planning on replacing the BAC eventually anyways so I'd just be wasting a crimp if I did it that way--in fact I may do that for a majority of the sensors I have to use).

Quote:

You should be able to find a connector kit for the TPS... call Motec?

Would have to be rather inexpensive as I'm already planning on trashing it once the above criteria is met.

Quote:

You might be able to keep the stock coolant temp sensor, but why? They can be had with a connector kit for $38?

Maybe when I upgrade the intake manifold I'll spend the extra $38 bucks. It just seems kind of pointless right now.

Quote:

I was never able to find a replacement socket and terminals for the BAC. Only option is either the teminal/epoxy route or rape a connector from a different harness.

That sucks. Not even Motec sells 'em?

Rotary Evolution · 03-01-2011, 02:11 PM

eastern beaver only really has old style connectors like the ACV connectors and many found on 1st gens.

these connectors will work for 86-88 injectors(88 high impedence injectors you have to cut the locating lug off of the injector as well as the water thermosensor lug to make them fit properly):

airtex - 1p1000
GP sorenson - 800-9213
BWD(Borg Warner) - 27427

for the BAC valve you can use an S5 injector style clips found here:
http://kgparts.com/index.php?page=kgfuel
ND-IC, 3/4 down the page

for double sided connectors like the two 2 pin ACV connectors, it's easier just to go the the wrecking yards and pick up 2 and 3 pin connectors and cut off both sides and replace the whole thing(doesn't matter what connector you use or what car you got it from but i personally prefer the metri-pak connectors found on later model GM vehicles which are also readily available at connector stores).

and for reference, i have found that supra's of the same year range use many of the same tyco connectors as the later model RX7 such as S5 and S6 use. unfortunately they usually aren't in much better shape but they are easier to find in wrecking yards.

problem with the stock connectors is that many manufacturers require rediculously large orders who actually do have OEM connectors still for these harnesses.

i have spent a bit of time researching the connectors but with little success, you can also find some good info for later models RX7s in my thread here:
http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.ph...ock+connectors

JustJeff · 03-02-2011, 01:01 AM

I'm rebuilding my harness. I was thinking ahead and snipped the water thermo plug (Green rectangular two pin one on the back of the water pump) from a junkyard. That plug is in awesome shape.

My CAS plug is horrible. But I believe I can buy the male terminal pins locally.

Probably going to rebuild my TPS. IIRC the actual male/female plugs are good. But being a N/A harness converted for a turbo swap, the wires were extended and while it's out I want to make sure the patch is in good shape.

***TitaniumTT*** · 03-02-2011, 07:42 AM

If you're not running the factory ECU, just replace the coolant sensor and get a Bosch termination kit.

TPS, same thing. I was able to find a Bosch (I think) connector that plugged right in, NEW pins.

CAS, get a deutsch connector and be done with it.

02-28-2011, 08:35 AM	#1
vex RCC Loves Me Not You Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Influx. iTrader: (6) Posts: 2,113 Rep Power: 19	Oem Electrical Connectors Anyone have any sources for a place that sells OEM style electrical connectors? For instance: Crimp pieces for BAC, TPS, Water Temp, etc. __________________ The Official FC Radiator Thread My Project Thread: Cerberus CCVT Virginia Rotary Group

02-28-2011, 09:15 AM	#2
My5ABaby Sigh..... Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Murfreesboro, TN iTrader: (6) Posts: 2,377 Rep Power: 19	Eastern Beaver may. __________________ 1986 Sport: 132k miles, 5A (Sapphire Blue Metallic), Tokico Blues, Racing Beat Springs, Custom LED tailights (only S4 LED tails in the world), SSR Mark II, Racing Beat exhaust, S5 black interior, Rotary Resurrection rebuild at 120k miles Community Service Manual RotorWiki "Imagination costs nothing; we could build square locomotives or fly to Mars" - Felix Wankel Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the "present."

02-28-2011, 10:26 AM	#3
vex RCC Loves Me Not You Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Influx. iTrader: (6) Posts: 2,113 Rep Power: 19	I tried hunting through their website, but I'm not seeing any of the one's I'm looking for (might have found the TPS). Is there someplace specific on there you are thinking of? __________________ The Official FC Radiator Thread My Project Thread: Cerberus CCVT Virginia Rotary Group Last edited by vex; 02-28-2011 at 10:50 AM..

02-28-2011, 12:59 PM	#4
My5ABaby Sigh..... Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Murfreesboro, TN iTrader: (6) Posts: 2,377 Rep Power: 19	No, I haven't looked through the page much. It was just referenced for me by a couple people. I plan on either using Metripacks or cutting off the stock connectors and butt connecting them to the wiring. __________________ 1986 Sport: 132k miles, 5A (Sapphire Blue Metallic), Tokico Blues, Racing Beat Springs, Custom LED tailights (only S4 LED tails in the world), SSR Mark II, Racing Beat exhaust, S5 black interior, Rotary Resurrection rebuild at 120k miles Community Service Manual RotorWiki "Imagination costs nothing; we could build square locomotives or fly to Mars" - Felix Wankel Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the "present."

02-28-2011, 11:06 PM	#7
vex RCC Loves Me Not You Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Influx. iTrader: (6) Posts: 2,113 Rep Power: 19	looks like they don't have FC parts anymore: http://www.blackdragonauto.com/carcatalog.htm __________________ The Official FC Radiator Thread My Project Thread: Cerberus CCVT Virginia Rotary Group

02-28-2011, 01:37 PM	#5
88turboii destroy, rebuild, repeat Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Charleston, SC iTrader: (0) Posts: 395 Rep Power: 17	i dont have any part numbers, but you could try poking around these: http://www.mouser.com/Interconnects/...ors/_/N-1ehb5/ http://www.alliedelec.com/connectors/ btw, does anybody have a part number or source for stock ecu connectors?

03-01-2011, 02:41 AM	#8
Howru Louvers! Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Vallejo, CA iTrader: (3) Posts: 66 Rep Power: 17	I got a set at Vintage Connections. The 4 and 6 pin connectors work, but on the 2-pin and 3-pin T connectors the retaining tang on the pin is positioned differently. They work, but need a bit of force to get them locked together. __________________ 88 GXL N/A -- Maybe I should've kept the exhaust diffusers...

03-01-2011, 09:22 AM	#9
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son iTrader: (4) Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	The only one you REALLY need is the BAC there T. The others are the same as some aftermkt Bosch units. The BAC connector is the only one that I raped from a factory harness and butt connected to the harness. Not happy about it but whatever. The other sensors you should be swapping out anyway. The other option is to get some small Fast-on terminals, drop a bit of solder on the pins, and then fill the void with epoxy and add a 2-pin deutsch or metripak connector. __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**

03-01-2011, 09:57 AM	#10
vex RCC Loves Me Not You Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Influx. iTrader: (6) Posts: 2,113 Rep Power: 19	More work than I'm willing to do. As it currently stands TTT; I'm having to retain my craptacular intake manifold (no new goodness for me), which means my TPS and BAC valve are being kept until I have the funds, time, and means to build the new intake manifold with the LS TB. The water temp sensor I thought I could keep stock and be okay with? I'll be re-doing a lot of sensors including a Fuel Pressure sensor (I know you like it), air temperature sensor, new oil pressure sensor, and a 3 bar GM sensor so I can grow with the boost (I'm also picking up a boost control solenoid). As others have mentioned, my biggest concern is sourcing a BAC connector, mine has seen better days. __________________ The Official FC Radiator Thread My Project Thread: Cerberus CCVT Virginia Rotary Group Last edited by vex; 03-01-2011 at 09:59 AM..

03-01-2011, 02:11 PM	#13
Rotary Evolution rotaryevolution.net Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Las Vegas, NV iTrader: (0) Posts: 248 Rep Power: 14	eastern beaver only really has old style connectors like the ACV connectors and many found on 1st gens. these connectors will work for 86-88 injectors(88 high impedence injectors you have to cut the locating lug off of the injector as well as the water thermosensor lug to make them fit properly): airtex - 1p1000 GP sorenson - 800-9213 BWD(Borg Warner) - 27427 for the BAC valve you can use an S5 injector style clips found here: http://kgparts.com/index.php?page=kgfuel ND-IC, 3/4 down the page for double sided connectors like the two 2 pin ACV connectors, it's easier just to go the the wrecking yards and pick up 2 and 3 pin connectors and cut off both sides and replace the whole thing(doesn't matter what connector you use or what car you got it from but i personally prefer the metri-pak connectors found on later model GM vehicles which are also readily available at connector stores). and for reference, i have found that supra's of the same year range use many of the same tyco connectors as the later model RX7 such as S5 and S6 use. unfortunately they usually aren't in much better shape but they are easier to find in wrecking yards. problem with the stock connectors is that many manufacturers require rediculously large orders who actually do have OEM connectors still for these harnesses. i have spent a bit of time researching the connectors but with little success, you can also find some good info for later models RX7s in my thread here: http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.ph...ock+connectors Last edited by Rotary Evolution; 03-01-2011 at 02:23 PM..

03-02-2011, 01:01 AM	#14
JustJeff RCC Contributor Join Date: Mar 2008 iTrader: (1) Posts: 505 Rep Power: 17	I'm rebuilding my harness. I was thinking ahead and snipped the water thermo plug (Green rectangular two pin one on the back of the water pump) from a junkyard. That plug is in awesome shape. My CAS plug is horrible. But I believe I can buy the male terminal pins locally. Probably going to rebuild my TPS. IIRC the actual male/female plugs are good. But being a N/A harness converted for a turbo swap, the wires were extended and while it's out I want to make sure the patch is in good shape.

03-02-2011, 07:42 AM	#15
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son iTrader: (4) Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	If you're not running the factory ECU, just replace the coolant sensor and get a Bosch termination kit. TPS, same thing. I was able to find a Bosch (I think) connector that plugged right in, NEW pins. CAS, get a deutsch connector and be done with it. __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**