FC: Wheel Fitment Thread

[Phoenix7]

Thanks to Roen for supplying me with this easy-to-read explanation on wheel offsets.

First you need to figure out what you have and what you need.

FC3S Bolt Pattern
4-lug and 5-lug are the same: 114.3

When you look for a wheel you base it on your needs:
114.3 x 4 or 114.3 x 5 - Simple

Once you have the right lug pattern you move on to the offset.

This is by far the simplest, most easy-to-read explanation I've received in a while and it must be shared with those who will eventually need new wheels.

Originally Posted by Roen

Positive offset is how inside your wheel is relative to the suspension.

A high offset will put your wheel next to your suspension.

A low (or negative) offset will put your wheel further out by or past the fender.

Spacers serve to reduce offset, so a +40 with a 15mm spacer becomes a +25.


Stock offset is +40 on a 7"/6.5"/6" and 5.5" rim.


I've been told that +30 on a 8 inch rim works perfectly.

In order to determine how much offset you need, use 8 inch, +30 as a base. See how much bigger your rim is to the 8 inch baseline.

Divide the difference by 2 and convert to millimeters (1 inch = 25.4mm).

Subtract that from the +30 offset to get your new offset.

I like how the baseline starts on an 8" rims since most will want to upgrade to a wider wheel (no point in buying new wheels that will not perform better than stock).

That's pretty much it. I don't know what else you'll need and I'm not a guru on this so if you have any questions or additions just post them.

[RETed]

Originally Posted by Rotary Related

This is wrong. +40 and a 15mm spacer becomes +55. It just pushes the wheel out further from the hub/ rotor face.

Uh...
NO.

Bigger (larger #) the offset, the further in the wheel face is pushed out and the wheel rim (edge) sinks into the wheel well.

"Offset" is defined as the measurement in millimeters the hub mount surface / back of the wheel face is OFFSET from centerline.
Negative offset implies the wheel face is pushed in, while the wheel rim (edge) is pushed out.

A +40 offset wheel with a 15mm space is effective the same as a wheel with a +25(mm) offset.


-Ted

[MaczPayne]

Yup

[RETed]

Originally Posted by Rotary Related

It's not the same as a +25mm offset wheel because its a +40mm wheel with a 15mm chunk of aluminium behind it.

It an "effective" +25mm offset, no matter how you argue it.

A +40mm offset wheel + 15mm spacer is effectively a +25mm offset wheel with no spacer.
Both will have the same clearance dimensions from the rim edges inside and outside. (when rim widths are kept the same).
I don't a flying fuck about the "chunk of aluminum behind it".

Meaning the rear of the hub face moves out 15mm more. Also you still have the face of the rim even with the outer lip of the rim.

You're talking about different face profiles and (effectively) brake caliper clearances.
I don't give a flying fuck about those.
We're debating about wheel dimensions, offsets, and clearances.

This would look like crap!

I don't give a flying fuck how the wheels looks like.
You wanna argue about how a wheel looks, go stick your nose into the Drifting subsection.
Again, I REPEAT MYSELF: We're debating about wheel dimensions, offsets, and clearances.

40 plus 15 is 55 last time I checked.

You're right.
That's the straight math.
It also shows you have no idea what rim dimensions and offset mean.
Stick with math - leave the wheel offsets to the people who do understand it.

This is what's confusing about offsets and spacers you are not accounting for the rims lip position in space in relation to the fender and suspension.

Again, you have no idea what you are talking about.
Leave the discussion to people who know what they are talking about.
You, obviously, don't know what you are talking about.

With your math my 16x8 wheels wth +12mm offset, and I put a 12mm spacer behind it and it becomes a zero offset wheel? No it doesn't its still a 12mm offset wheel. Buy the right wheels. Spacers are terrible.

Again, you are just showing you have no idea what you are talking about.

I'm not sure I understand what your saying now actually after reading it again I think you actually agreed with me after saying no. Do people want flat faced rims? I can't even fathom that lol. All I know is when I calculated my wheels then ordered them they came and fit exactly.

No, you have a problem with reading comprehension.
I never agreed with any of your balony falsehoods in the first place.

You want to argue how wheels looks?
Go post your shit in the Drifting section.
This thread has NOTHING to do with how a wheel looks.

I don't diss people cause they like flat-faced rims - it's their preference.
You're a cause you're insulting the people who do like those kinda wheels.
People like you make me shame I'm connected with the rotary engine...

Agree to disagree on the math?

No.
I agree that you:
1) have a reading comprehension problem
2) have a problem expressing yourself in words
3) have no clue what "offset" means
4) a prejudice jackass insulting people cause it doesn't agree with your "sense of style" (puke)


-Ted

[88turboii]

maybe this will explain it better:

http://www.1010tires.com/wheeloffsetcalculator.asp

the reason we care about offset is to get the wheel to fit without sticking out past the fender (outer edge of wheel) or rubbing the suspension (inner edge of wheel)

offset is not used to change the look of the wheel itself, that is manufacterer's job. if you dont like the look of the lip on the wheel, get a different wheel

[MaczPayne]

I couldn't have said anything better than Ted.

[RotorDad]

Well this was amusing to follow!

[TitaniumTT]

It certainly was, so much that it sparked a tread in the Admin section

and if there was ever a doubt, Ted is right, Rotary Related is wrong. This is not up for debate

[RotorDad]

It's usually best not to make a comment if you are unsure of what you are talking about. No reason to make yourself look stupid & provide incorrect info.

[TitaniumTT]

Indeed, infact, we might start handing out warnings/bans for vulgar displays of stupidity

[LunchboxCritter]

Why is this stickied? The only informative part is the OP, everything after is strictly ignorance, and obviously a miscommunication.

Rotordad is incorrect. If everyone had been talking about negative offset rather than positive he would have been correct. I'm giving him the benefit of doubt and assuming his logic was simply confused, and he's not a total tard. If spacers were sold as negative sizes maybe it wouldn't be so confusing.

IE: -10 offset used with a 10mm spacer would put you at a -20mm offset (neg 20mm offset that is). 10+10=20

Ted seems to be tired of ignorance, and is getting a bit grumpy. I believe he should go surfing and get recentered.

[Pete_89T2]

Originally Posted by LunchboxCritter

Why is this stickied? The only informative part is the OP, everything after is strictly ignorance, and obviously a miscommunication.

Rotordad is incorrect. If everyone had been talking about negative offset rather than positive he would have been correct. I'm giving him the benefit of doubt and assuming his logic was simply confused, and he's not a total tard. If spacers were sold as negative sizes maybe it wouldn't be so confusing.

IE: -10 offset used with a 10mm spacer would put you at a -20mm offset (neg 20mm offset that is). 10+10=20

Ted seems to be tired of ignorance, and is getting a bit grumpy. I believe he should go surfing and get recentered.

Grumpy or not, I think Ted's initial post to this thread (#3) with the attached wheel offset illustration, was the most useful nugget of information in this entire thread. A picture is often worth 1000's of words, and in this case, the picture clearly explains the concept of wheel offset so well that any dunderhead can understand it. I hope the mods don't decide to edit that one out of this thread.

[TitaniumTT]

I'm sorry, have either one of you been issued anything?
And I'm from the north, there's no good ole' boy shit going on here.
I have banned people for language and attacks, infact, seems like you're attacking an admin in your post. I'd be careful if I were you. I'd rather publically warn people as I have in the past, rather than ban them. It seems to work more effectively and it keeps more people on the forum and active. How can you go wrong? That doesn't mean that I'll hesitate if someone steps over the line after being warned. Consider yourself warned for a few different things.

[RotorDad]

Originally Posted by LunchboxCritter

Why is this stickied? The only informative part is the OP, everything after is strictly ignorance, and obviously a miscommunication.

Rotordad is incorrect. If everyone had been talking about negative offset rather than positive he would have been correct. I'm giving him the benefit of doubt and assuming his logic was simply confused, and he's not a total tard. If spacers were sold as negative sizes maybe it wouldn't be so confusing.

How exactly am I incorrect? You even stated that he might have been confused right? Okay well that says to me he was incorrect, if he was confused asking a question or listening to someone with the right idea would be a good thing.

[josh18_2k]

Originally Posted by Rotary Related

Adding a spacer does not change the offset of the wheel it just moves it out further from the hub face. The wheel remains the same. If you used a wheel that was the same offset as the "effective offset" as he mentions it would be constructed completely different.

thats only really true for multi piece wheels that use the same face with a different barrel. 18x9.5 +38 and +15 rpf1's, for example, look identical from the outside. obviuously some wheels are shaped differently, but some arent.
in fact if brake clearance is an issue, its easier to fit wheels WITH a spacer. run a higher offset wheel with spokes designed for opem brakes, then space it out to clear big brakes. low offest deepdish whateverthehells are much harder to fit over BBK's.

Your going to get some kid with a huge spacer and a wheel held on by a couple threads of wheel stud. Then his studs will break possibly causing a crash and destroying his vehicle if he's lucky and possibly injuring himself or others in the proccess if he's unlucky.

thats a different argument. "how many threads should i have engaged?"
well its really not much of an argument. a fastener needs 1/2 of its diameter engaged to be equal in radial and axial sheer strength. for a 12x1.5 threaded stud, that equals 4 turns. stick with 5 to play it safe.

need more thread engagement? these are a hell of a lot cheaper then custom built wheels:
http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/100-77...oductId=747558

Also using his method causes accelerated wear on the wheel bearings since the load is now being carried out further from the bearing.

the location of the center of the tire (scrub) is all that really matters in bearing load, as well as the load itself of course. whether it be a +10 wheel, or a +40 wheel with 30mm spacer, the bearing doesnt know the difference.

You need as much of the mass and inertia centered over the bearing as possible to reduce this. This is just common sense you don't need a doctorate in physics to understand this.

you think wheel weight has any affect on your bearings? they're designed to support cornering forces of an entire car... maybe your wheels weigh 1000lbs? i guess thats possible with multipiece steel wheels lol

Some sactioning body for racing DO NOT allow spacers for these reasons.

just about every time attack car runs slipon spacers, fyi (since most of them run 1-piece wheels with OTS offsets)