FC3S Power Window system rebuild

[RETed]

I've been sitting on this write-up for a while - over a year!
I did a sneak peak to the BAW guys in The Lounge a while back, so some of you have seen this already.
I've been meaning to post it, but keep forgetting...

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/PWREBUILD/pwrebuild.html

Have a Happy and Safe New Year from FC3S Pro!


-Ted

[Pete_89T2]

Thanks Ted! Good write-up for something on my to-do list; passenger window is very slow going up.

[Eijoku]

You are a legend!

[FC Zach]

Nice write-up! I had to clean up and relubricate the sunroof assembly a couple years ago and you're right, that grease Mazda uses is a hardened mess.

[knonfs]

NICE Ted, thanks for sharing!!

BTW - After removing the clear plastic liner from the door, how in the world did you remove/clean all of the glue/goo used to secure the liner to the door?

[RETed]

Originally Posted by knonfs

NICE Ted, thanks for sharing!!

Thanx guys!

BTW - After removing the clear plastic liner from the door, how in the world did you remove/clean all of the glue/goo used to secure the liner to the door?

There's no easy solution...

If you're serious about taking it off, this is what I recommend:
1) Scrape as much as you can with plastic / teflon spatula, putty knife, etc.
2) Use mineral spirits, WD-40, kerosene, etc. to remove the rest of the residue.

You should try and keep that plastic sheet in there, if possible.
With the plastic moisture barrier, it keeps moisture from seeping your door panel, which has pressed wood pulp - i.e. masonite.
Without the plastic, you rish ruining your door panel.
If your original plastic sheet is dying, try and replace it - Home Depot, Lowe's, etc. carry plastic moisture barrier sheeting if needed.


-Ted

[knonfs]

Update - I finally followed Ted's DIY process/instructions. Thanks Ted!!!

I used a home depot orange bucket, put the track in there, and soaked it in engine degreaser, and then power washed it with a harbor freight (or equivalent electric power washer).

Windows go up/down smoother, and the process is quicker, but not as quick as I was hoping. Tested both mechanism/motors after everything was said and done, by pulling current straight from the battery and the damn system works like a brand new car!!

Relay mods is in order, not needed, but man! (and yes, the contacts on both power windows switches are clean)

With that said, the process was not uneventful. I had a brain fart, and attempted to install the glass on the passenger side from the INTERIOR side of the door. Not sure how, but as the glass was going in, it got stucked, and after pulling up... I managed to shatter the glass

[RETed]

Damn, sorry to hear about the broken glass...
I know those power window motors are powerful enough and not all have current control to kill the power if the glass gets stuck!

Yeah, it's amazing how *effortless* the windows go up and down now.

Then I remember that the cars are hitting THIRTY years old!


-Ted

[knonfs]

Originally Posted by RETed

Damn, sorry to hear about the broken glass...
I know those power window motors are powerful enough and not all have current control to kill the power if the glass gets stuck!

Yeah, it's amazing how *effortless* the windows go up and down now.

Then I remember that the cars are hitting THIRTY years old!


-Ted

It wasn't that power window motor that did it, it was me upon reinstallation of the glass, it was a stupid brain fart

Luckily for me, a local fella hooked me up with a new used glass!

Ted, I am telling you, applying direct current to those motors opened my eyes. Installing relays (with dedicated power to them) is a must. Windows went up and down just as fast as my wife's 2011 GTI, or pops 2015 car!

Its not like I need more projects, but those relays are going in the never ending "to do list"

[RETed]

Oh, I don't doubt it!

I'm fighting the same kinda problems with my MX83 with 185k miles on it.
I converted only the driver's corner, as trying to stuff 8 relays - 4 door! - into that master switch is a royal PITA!

Increased current + less wear&tear on the actually switch (contacts) itself is a big plus - it will most likely outlive us, the owners!

I'm actually thinking of doing a write-up for this in a near future...


-Ted

[vex]

How has the silicone spray held up so far?

[RETed]

Still working very well...
I'm still surprised how quick the windows move up and down, despite the car being 30 years old!


-Ted

[vex]

Have a video of it by chance? I know I'll be getting into doing something like this on my windows at some point, but a little motion goes a long way in lighting my fire to get it started/finished.

[Pete_89T2]

Originally Posted by knonfs

BTW - After removing the clear plastic liner from the door, how in the world did you remove/clean all of the glue/goo used to secure the liner to the door?

^Tip to do this part the easy way...

1. Buy a can or two of "computer duster" spray.
2. Wear googles & gloves to protect yourself from frostbite
3. Hold can so it's inverted (nozzle on the bottom), and spray the goo to rapidly freeze it. It will come out as a VERY COLD liquid and freeze the crap out of whatever it hits when sprayed inverted, hence step #2.
4. Take a beefy plastic scraper (gasket scraper, ice scraper, whatever), and chip & scrape off the goo while it's still frozen solid. The stuff seems to loose it's stick when cold & comes off easily.

[raynard35]

This is an excellent write up!