couple ?'s about engine and tranny removal

93vrfd_houston · 02-22-2010, 09:58 PM

hello all, i am trying to determine what if any special tools will be needed for the removal of the engine and trans. i have convienced my retired father into tackling some installations for me while i am overseas, so i can come home to a complete or almost complete project.

the most important thing for me right now is to provide him with everthing that he will need to do the work correctly. i have never removed either before in an rx7 and don't have the knowledge of what tools will be necessary.

does anyone have experience on which manuel to by for this job? should i purchase an original shop manuel from mazda or should i buy a chilton or off brand?

he will be installing a new tranny with an aftermarket clutch and flywheel and all bearings as well.

any assistance would be greatly appreciated, i know a lot of this info is available on the net but he is an old timer and doesn't have great computer skills. i want to get him everything he will need so he will have as lil questions as possible.

thanks, mark

forgot to mention the details..........95 r2, mostly stock engine wise, simplified sequentials but bnrs are going in.

***Herblenny*** · 02-23-2010, 12:59 AM

Hmm..

Well, you definitely need a cherry picker for sure and a engine leveler.

I've taken an engine out all by myself but it would be better to have some help.

Mainly you would need to take the engine harness from inside the car to engine bay. Drain transfluid, oil, and coolant. Remove, intake box, radiator, IC, and undo, oil cooler lines, and you could either take the lines off of PS and AC or just move the PS pump and AC compressor off the engine before pulling (and not disconnect).

Then, take the PPF and un do the engine mount and the engine should pull out.

I would get factory manual vs. other manuals.. But I don't recall how factory manual suggest to pull the engine off the car.

93vrfd_houston · 02-23-2010, 04:04 AM

hey phil, thanks for the tips. he has a cherry picker but i'm not sure about a leveler. do you know if he will need any special tools for pilot bearing / throw out bearing, or will any bearing puller work?

i will go with a factory manual then, i'll shoot ray an email and get one from him.

thanks, mark

Signal 2 · 02-23-2010, 06:23 AM

MUCH easier with a leveler on the engine hoist and a decent floor-jack.
Consider getting this video as a primer. It should help give you both an idea of what's required.
http://www.rotaryaviation.com/R%20R%20Video.htm
Another source of info about engine removal:
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3r...eng_remov.html

There are no special tools needed to remove the engine. But at times it is easier to remove things like the PS pulley bolt when you have air tools (impact wrench).
First timers also usually stuggle with the pull-type clutch. Here is a short video that also shows how to disconnect it.
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...8290919&hl=en#

I second getting the FSM.

kyleaudio · 02-23-2010, 09:25 PM

as far as the pilot bearing tool, any bearing puller will work, however the mazda pilot bearing remover is the best for the job, mazdatrix sells it as well as a pilot bearing installer, those will help him out a lot. other then that, he shouldn't need any more special tools, just a good socket set, screw driver set, jack, jack stands, and a cherry picker.

93vrfd_houston · 02-23-2010, 11:27 PM

hey jim, thanks for the links it will be helpful and i will pick up the stock shop manual

kyle, thanks for the tips on where to pick up the bearing tools. found all kinds of other goodies that i might be picking up as well.

later, mark

Signal 2 · 02-25-2010, 07:12 PM

To be clear, you don't need a pilot bearing puller to remove the engine.
If your having it professionally rebuilt, they will have that SST. Since you only asked about removal, I assumed that was the case.

93vrfd_houston · 02-25-2010, 11:06 PM

hey jim, yeah the reason i need the bearing tools is to change the clutch set up. i bought a reman tranny because i had some shifting issue's to. there is nothing wrong with the motor. it was rebuilt about 10k ago, it's coming out to revamp the engine bay. i have a long list of goodies i've been purchasing for the past 6-8 months. see below

something's i have two of because i am not sure which i will use, but hey at least i'll have enough to get the job done. you guys let me know if you think i'm missing anything.

later, mark

1. KOYO NFLOW RADIATOR
2. EFINI Y-PIPE
3. SAMCO BLUE RADIATOR HOSES
4. GM MAP SENSOR
5. BREEZE HOSE CLAMPS
6. GREDDY INTERCOOLER PIPING
7. GREDDY RS BOV
8. GREDDY TYPE S BOV
9. GREDDY BOV FLANGE
10. MAGANACOR WIRES
11. GREDDY PULLEY KIT W/BELT
12. GODSPEED SMIC & PIPING
13. XS POWER INTERCOOLER
14. RC INJECTORS 1300CC
15. GREDDY PROFEC B SPEC II
16. 2000+ NARDI WHEEL
17. FEED TOW HOOKS
18. RE-AD9 HOOD
19. FEED CARBON FIBER SIDE SKIRTS
20. SHINEAUTO RE REAR ST DIFFUSER
21. 99 spec CARBON FIBER FRONT LIP
22. DEFI EGT GAUGE
23. DEFI BOOST GAUGE
24. DEFI FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE
25. DEFI COOLANT TEMP GAUGE
26. DEFI CONTROL LINK
27. FLYRX7 QUAD GAUGE POD
28. apexi dual n1 exhaust
29. resonated midpipe / rx7store
30. shineauto low profile spoiler
31. shineauto craftsquare rear ad ons--
32. shineauto 99 spec c/f undertray
33. JKL carbon fiber bumper gaurd
34. HKS RACING SUCTION INTAKE
35. HKS TWIN POWER IGNITION
36. LARGE INTERCOOLER DUCT
37. RAYS ANODIZED BLUE LUGNUTS
38. WORK MEISTERS S1 WHEELS
40. HID XENON FOG LAMP KIT
41. ENGINE TORQUE BRACE
42. CARBON FIBER DOOR SILS
43. SAKE BOMB GARAGE BI ZENON HID KIT
44. REBUILT OEM TRANSMISSION
45. au racing billet short shifter
46. act street strip clutch w/ counter balance
47. auto exe light flywheel
48. suspension techniques frt & rear sway bars
49. racing brake bbk w/ 4 oversized rotors, using oe rear caliper
50. CERAMIC COATED UIM-----------------*************

CERAMIC COATED LIM

BNR TWIN'S STAGE 3

------- POLISHED T/B -----------------

POLISHED GREDDY ELBOW

RAY BAILY'S SOLENOID KIT

SMB DOWN PIPE------------------^^^

Garfinkles Motor Works · 02-26-2010, 08:48 AM

Do you need one of my oil pan braces or idler pulley to replace the air pump or fuel line fittings for SS braded lines ,ect ect

93vrfd_houston · 02-26-2010, 11:43 PM

hey Garfinkle, i was actually thinking about picking up an oil pan brace from you. I would like to get a set of those nice motor mounts you make as well but i see that you want the originals sent in so i would have to wait until he pulls the motor and then send them in to you for that. i will wait until he gets the motor pulled and then get back with you on that though. i may end up getting three items from you.

thanks for chiming in though, i don't think i'm giong to do ss fuel lines yet. that may come at a later date.

milano maroon · 02-27-2010, 10:52 AM

All of the above is great information and right on the mark. It would have been very difficult for me to do it without the leveler.

The only other suggestions I would make would be to use a digital camera and take lots of photographs. I took a photo nearly everytime I took something off. I know it sounds a little crazy but when it came time to put everything back together there was no uncertainty. Especially if there will be some elapsed time between the removal and the replacement.

Also, I used a box of zip lock bags and labeled every set of bolts etc. that I took off. For the first time ever, I didn't have bolts left over in the coffee can or short bolts when I was done.

Wish you guys good luck and come back soon.

93vrfd_houston · 02-27-2010, 10:26 PM

hey milano, thanks for the tips. yeah i'm going to try to talk him in to taking a lot of pics so i can see the process as well. he is a verry mechanicly inclined person with years of experience working on cars. he actually owned an old rotary wagan back in the day. he already knows to lable everything that is getting removed so that he can figure out the correct way to get it all back together.

my next ? is when all the new toys get added to the motor, what is the process. i know the motor will need to be tuned before i can do anything, but it is fine to start and run to check everything as long as it doesn't hit boost correct?

i have a pfc and commander, can he change the map at all with this or just run the pre-set maps. can he just make it run rich for the time being to make sure we don't do any damage? the reason why i ask is because he is changing the injectors, dp, mp, and putting the bnr's on.

after he gets everything installed, it will most likely be trailer'd up to dallas / ft. worth area to go to kan's new shop.

would you guys suggest me buying an ai kit or water injection kit? that is one thing that i haven't read up enough on in the forums to know anything about. besides the fact that everyone thinks it is a rotary saver.

thanks mark

milano maroon · 02-28-2010, 03:49 AM

I'm sure others who know more about the PFC will chime in but here are a few answers to your questions -

With the Commander you have to start with the default map. You can't load a custom map. But you can change parameters such as injector sizes, sequential - non-sequential, some stuff like that. You can also vary the amount of fuel in each of the 400 cells (although it is a little tedious with just the Commander). Same with both ignition maps. There are ways to richen just portions of the map with PIM voltages, fuel increases by RPM band, etc. You can also richen or lean out the entire map at one time by altering injector lag times.

I'll let others suggest what you should or shouldn't do without getting a professional tune. On my own car I did start it and let it idle on the base map. Just make sure you warm it up before you shut it off or you risk flooding it (ask me how I know). All engines are different but mine didn't drive well on the base map until I got a Datalogit and started tuning for AFRs.

93vrfd_houston · 02-28-2010, 07:53 AM

thanks again milano, i may just have to get a datalogit set-up. i don't think that he has ever actually tuned a vehicle though. i know he has a good friend that has experience tuning his own drag car, but a small block 400 with two de'vinci toilet bowls making over 1000 bwhp may be a lil different than a rotary(trying for 400). i guess as long as you have the knowledge of a/f ratio's at the certain rpm brackets you should be fine. i think i would still feel safer having a pro do it though and it's not like i'm in a time crunch.

next ?, i know i might be getting annoying. does anyone have experience with ray baily's solenoids? i picked up a set a while back, but have no instructions with them. i bought the car from fritz and it has already been simplified but i don't know how to install them. i searched for some instructions but i wasn't successful.

thanks for any help

02-22-2010, 09:58 PM	#1
93vrfd_houston Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: houston tx, currently in afghanistan iTrader: (0) Posts: 54 Rep Power: 16	couple ?'s about engine and tranny removal hello all, i am trying to determine what if any special tools will be needed for the removal of the engine and trans. i have convienced my retired father into tackling some installations for me while i am overseas, so i can come home to a complete or almost complete project. the most important thing for me right now is to provide him with everthing that he will need to do the work correctly. i have never removed either before in an rx7 and don't have the knowledge of what tools will be necessary. does anyone have experience on which manuel to by for this job? should i purchase an original shop manuel from mazda or should i buy a chilton or off brand? he will be installing a new tranny with an aftermarket clutch and flywheel and all bearings as well. any assistance would be greatly appreciated, i know a lot of this info is available on the net but he is an old timer and doesn't have great computer skills. i want to get him everything he will need so he will have as lil questions as possible. thanks, mark forgot to mention the details..........95 r2, mostly stock engine wise, simplified sequentials but bnrs are going in. Last edited by 93vrfd_houston; 02-22-2010 at 10:06 PM..

02-23-2010, 12:59 AM	#2
*Herblenny* Founder/Administrator/Internet Pitbull :) Join Date: Jan 2008 iTrader: (11) Posts: 644 Rep Power: 10	Hmm.. Well, you definitely need a cherry picker for sure and a engine leveler. I've taken an engine out all by myself but it would be better to have some help. Mainly you would need to take the engine harness from inside the car to engine bay. Drain transfluid, oil, and coolant. Remove, intake box, radiator, IC, and undo, oil cooler lines, and you could either take the lines off of PS and AC or just move the PS pump and AC compressor off the engine before pulling (and not disconnect). Then, take the PPF and un do the engine mount and the engine should pull out. I would get factory manual vs. other manuals.. But I don't recall how factory manual suggest to pull the engine off the car. __________________ DGRR 2013 - Year of 13B www.DealsGapRotaryRally.com http://www.facebook.com/Herblenny

02-23-2010, 06:23 AM	#4
Signal 2 Viable Fossil Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Mid-West iTrader: (0) Posts: 199 Rep Power: 17	MUCH easier with a leveler on the engine hoist and a decent floor-jack. Consider getting this video as a primer. It should help give you both an idea of what's required. http://www.rotaryaviation.com/R%20R%20Video.htm Another source of info about engine removal: http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3r...eng_remov.html There are no special tools needed to *remove* the engine. But at times it is easier to remove things like the PS pulley bolt when you have air tools (impact wrench). First timers also usually stuggle with the pull-type clutch. Here is a short video that also shows how to disconnect it. http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...8290919&hl=en# I second getting the FSM. __________________ Jim VR R1 FD Last edited by Signal 2; 02-23-2010 at 06:25 AM..

02-25-2010, 07:12 PM	#7
Signal 2 Viable Fossil Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Mid-West iTrader: (0) Posts: 199 Rep Power: 17	To be clear, you don't need a pilot bearing puller to remove the engine. If your having it professionally rebuilt, they will have that SST. Since you only asked about removal, I assumed that was the case. __________________ Jim VR R1 FD

02-23-2010, 04:04 AM	#3
93vrfd_houston Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: houston tx, currently in afghanistan iTrader: (0) Posts: 54 Rep Power: 16	hey phil, thanks for the tips. he has a cherry picker but i'm not sure about a leveler. do you know if he will need any special tools for pilot bearing / throw out bearing, or will any bearing puller work? i will go with a factory manual then, i'll shoot ray an email and get one from him. thanks, mark

02-23-2010, 09:25 PM	#5
kyleaudio The Newbie Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Coatesville, PA, San Diego, CA iTrader: (0) Posts: 11 Rep Power: 0	as far as the pilot bearing tool, any bearing puller will work, however the mazda pilot bearing remover is the best for the job, mazdatrix sells it as well as a pilot bearing installer, those will help him out a lot. other then that, he shouldn't need any more special tools, just a good socket set, screw driver set, jack, jack stands, and a cherry picker.

02-23-2010, 11:27 PM	#6
93vrfd_houston Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: houston tx, currently in afghanistan iTrader: (0) Posts: 54 Rep Power: 16	hey jim, thanks for the links it will be helpful and i will pick up the stock shop manual kyle, thanks for the tips on where to pick up the bearing tools. found all kinds of other goodies that i might be picking up as well. later, mark

02-25-2010, 11:06 PM	#8
93vrfd_houston Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: houston tx, currently in afghanistan iTrader: (0) Posts: 54 Rep Power: 16	hey jim, yeah the reason i need the bearing tools is to change the clutch set up. i bought a reman tranny because i had some shifting issue's to. there is nothing wrong with the motor. it was rebuilt about 10k ago, it's coming out to revamp the engine bay. i have a long list of goodies i've been purchasing for the past 6-8 months. see below something's i have two of because i am not sure which i will use, but hey at least i'll have enough to get the job done. you guys let me know if you think i'm missing anything. later, mark 1. KOYO NFLOW RADIATOR 2. EFINI Y-PIPE 3. SAMCO BLUE RADIATOR HOSES 4. GM MAP SENSOR 5. BREEZE HOSE CLAMPS 6. GREDDY INTERCOOLER PIPING 7. GREDDY RS BOV 8. GREDDY TYPE S BOV 9. GREDDY BOV FLANGE 10. MAGANACOR WIRES 11. GREDDY PULLEY KIT W/BELT 12. GODSPEED SMIC & PIPING 13. XS POWER INTERCOOLER 14. RC INJECTORS 1300CC 15. GREDDY PROFEC B SPEC II 16. 2000+ NARDI WHEEL 17. FEED TOW HOOKS 18. RE-AD9 HOOD 19. FEED CARBON FIBER SIDE SKIRTS 20. SHINEAUTO RE REAR ST DIFFUSER 21. 99 spec CARBON FIBER FRONT LIP 22. DEFI EGT GAUGE 23. DEFI BOOST GAUGE 24. DEFI FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE 25. DEFI COOLANT TEMP GAUGE 26. DEFI CONTROL LINK 27. FLYRX7 QUAD GAUGE POD 28. apexi dual n1 exhaust 29. resonated midpipe / rx7store 30. shineauto low profile spoiler 31. shineauto craftsquare rear ad ons-- 32. shineauto 99 spec c/f undertray 33. JKL carbon fiber bumper gaurd 34. HKS RACING SUCTION INTAKE 35. HKS TWIN POWER IGNITION 36. LARGE INTERCOOLER DUCT 37. RAYS ANODIZED BLUE LUGNUTS 38. WORK MEISTERS S1 WHEELS 40. HID XENON FOG LAMP KIT 41. ENGINE TORQUE BRACE 42. CARBON FIBER DOOR SILS 43. SAKE BOMB GARAGE BI ZENON HID KIT 44. REBUILT OEM TRANSMISSION 45. au racing billet short shifter 46. act street strip clutch w/ counter balance 47. auto exe light flywheel 48. suspension techniques frt & rear sway bars 49. racing brake bbk w/ 4 oversized rotors, using oe rear caliper 50. CERAMIC COATED UIM-----------------************* CERAMIC COATED LIM BNR TWIN'S STAGE 3 ------- POLISHED T/B ----------------- POLISHED GREDDY ELBOW RAY BAILY'S SOLENOID KIT SMB DOWN PIPE------------------^^^

02-26-2010, 08:48 AM	#9
Garfinkles Motor Works RCC Contributor Join Date: Mar 2008 iTrader: (11) Posts: 535 Rep Power: 17	Do you need one of my oil pan braces or idler pulley to replace the air pump or fuel line fittings for SS braded lines ,ect ect

02-26-2010, 11:43 PM	#10
93vrfd_houston Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: houston tx, currently in afghanistan iTrader: (0) Posts: 54 Rep Power: 16	hey Garfinkle, i was actually thinking about picking up an oil pan brace from you. I would like to get a set of those nice motor mounts you make as well but i see that you want the originals sent in so i would have to wait until he pulls the motor and then send them in to you for that. i will wait until he gets the motor pulled and then get back with you on that though. i may end up getting three items from you. thanks for chiming in though, i don't think i'm giong to do ss fuel lines yet. that may come at a later date.

02-27-2010, 10:52 AM	#11
milano maroon The Newbie Join Date: Jul 2008 iTrader: (0) Posts: 6 Rep Power: 0	All of the above is great information and right on the mark. It would have been very difficult for me to do it without the leveler. The only other suggestions I would make would be to use a digital camera and take lots of photographs. I took a photo nearly everytime I took something off. I know it sounds a little crazy but when it came time to put everything back together there was no uncertainty. Especially if there will be some elapsed time between the removal and the replacement. Also, I used a box of zip lock bags and labeled every set of bolts etc. that I took off. For the first time ever, I didn't have bolts left over in the coffee can or short bolts when I was done. Wish you guys good luck and come back soon.

02-27-2010, 10:26 PM	#12
93vrfd_houston Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: houston tx, currently in afghanistan iTrader: (0) Posts: 54 Rep Power: 16	hey milano, thanks for the tips. yeah i'm going to try to talk him in to taking a lot of pics so i can see the process as well. he is a verry mechanicly inclined person with years of experience working on cars. he actually owned an old rotary wagan back in the day. he already knows to lable everything that is getting removed so that he can figure out the correct way to get it all back together. my next ? is when all the new toys get added to the motor, what is the process. i know the motor will need to be tuned before i can do anything, but it is fine to start and run to check everything as long as it doesn't hit boost correct? i have a pfc and commander, can he change the map at all with this or just run the pre-set maps. can he just make it run rich for the time being to make sure we don't do any damage? the reason why i ask is because he is changing the injectors, dp, mp, and putting the bnr's on. after he gets everything installed, it will most likely be trailer'd up to dallas / ft. worth area to go to kan's new shop. would you guys suggest me buying an ai kit or water injection kit? that is one thing that i haven't read up enough on in the forums to know anything about. besides the fact that everyone thinks it is a rotary saver. thanks mark

02-28-2010, 03:49 AM	#13
milano maroon The Newbie Join Date: Jul 2008 iTrader: (0) Posts: 6 Rep Power: 0	I'm sure others who know more about the PFC will chime in but here are a few answers to your questions - With the Commander you have to start with the default map. You can't load a custom map. But you can change parameters such as injector sizes, sequential - non-sequential, some stuff like that. You can also vary the amount of fuel in each of the 400 cells (although it is a little tedious with just the Commander). Same with both ignition maps. There are ways to richen just portions of the map with PIM voltages, fuel increases by RPM band, etc. You can also richen or lean out the entire map at one time by altering injector lag times. I'll let others suggest what you should or shouldn't do without getting a professional tune. On my own car I did start it and let it idle on the base map. Just make sure you warm it up before you shut it off or you risk flooding it (ask me how I know). All engines are different but mine didn't drive well on the base map until I got a Datalogit and started tuning for AFRs.

02-28-2010, 07:53 AM	#14
93vrfd_houston Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: houston tx, currently in afghanistan iTrader: (0) Posts: 54 Rep Power: 16	thanks again milano, i may just have to get a datalogit set-up. i don't think that he has ever actually tuned a vehicle though. i know he has a good friend that has experience tuning his own drag car, but a small block 400 with two de'vinci toilet bowls making over 1000 bwhp may be a lil different than a rotary(trying for 400). i guess as long as you have the knowledge of a/f ratio's at the certain rpm brackets you should be fine. i think i would still feel safer having a pro do it though and it's not like i'm in a time crunch. next ?, i know i might be getting annoying. does anyone have experience with ray baily's solenoids? i picked up a set a while back, but have no instructions with them. i bought the car from fritz and it has already been simplified but i don't know how to install them. i searched for some instructions but i wasn't successful. thanks for any help