Joff and MrsJoff's Chaste White BorgWarner FD build - Page 8

***TitaniumTT*** · 01-02-2011, 11:00 PM

I think he's referring to Paul Yaw and his 12A port matched mani's that lost CFM.... It's odd I agree but makes me wonder none the less..... I've got a set of bone stock RE mani's that I should probably flow test.

***TitaniumTT*** · 01-06-2011, 09:40 AM

Another way to do it would be to soak a towel in acetone and pull it through with a line. Has always worked well for me.

I've thought about extrude honing the manifolds, but can't really justify the near $700

joff · 01-06-2011, 10:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Another way to do it would be to soak a towel in acetone and pull it through with a line. Has always worked well for me.

Yep, I was doing exactly that with the shop towels. The acetone just was not cutting it as a solvent. I must have pulled about 5 towels through that way and each time the rags were coming out dirty from the PCV gunk. Whatever is in that brake cleaner is some strong stuff.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

I've thought about extrude honing the manifolds, but can't really justify the near $700

I wondered how expensive that would be. I would think there would be a lot to gain by simply polishing the inside passageways to get rid of the casting texture, but I didn't see an easy way get a sander in there.

One thing about that UIM is that even after porting it, pulling stuffed towels through it it definitely seems the biggest constriction is right at the UIM exit as thats when I had to use the most pulling force. I'll bet that since using the Xcessive LIM, this spot is the 2nd most constrictive point after the engine ports themselves.

chickenwafer · 01-10-2011, 08:11 PM

Looking good Jesse! Your attention to detail is awesome!

Doc-1 · 01-10-2011, 08:54 PM

Very Nice Very Nice Indeed

joff · 01-11-2011, 10:57 PM

I got all my intake tubing cut and welded this weekend. I was able to keep all bends relatively gentle, but man I am really getting sick of having to use this hack saw. Cutting a 4" cast aluminum elbow in half by hand (and all the other pieces) was a major PITA.

I was able to get the fitment between sections within about 1/8" which should make couplers blowing off almost impossible. To minimize number of couplers, I also cut off the end of the cast Rotary-Works elbow and had pipe welded to that. I'm tempted to use Wiggins clamps on the intercooler piping, but don't really dig the purple anodizing.

Next I'm going to grind the welds down, find somebody to put a bead on the ends and get the pieces powder coated wrinkle-black. BOV mount is going on the intercooler hot side.

Tried to position the air filter perfectly for a cold air/ram air intake. This pic is from the front looking into the V of the V-mount with the bumper off.

I do like the more gentle angle of the Rotary-works TB elbow as compared to the >90degree Greddy ones, but I don't think I'll be able to reuse the stock strut bar now without some custom mounts-- it sits pretty high. RCCAZ and dregg100 gave me a heads up Saturday that cutting off the air pump mount on the water pump housing would clean up some of the fuel rail plumbing later so I cut that piece off too with the hacksaw.

***TitaniumTT*** · 01-12-2011, 12:26 AM

Damn, that powdercoating looks fantastic. It really does. Gives me more motivation to redo mine.

The fitment on the intercooler piping is top notch, well done. I would suggest NOT grinding the beads down though. I did this with a few pipes that I had ceramic coated, and they cracked.... so now they need to be re-coated... damnit.

calicrewchief · 01-12-2011, 12:56 PM

Your setup looks great, but I don't see many vmounts where the intake is in the same compartment as the radiator and intercooler. Now this is my simple minded theory, but wont the turbo at full boost be taking away much of the cfm airflow that would be forced throught the intercooler and radiator?

joff · 01-12-2011, 01:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by calicrewchief

[
Your setup looks great, but I don't see many vmounts where the intake is in the same compartment as the radiator and intercooler. Now this is my simple minded theory, but wont the turbo at full boost be taking away much of the cfm airflow that would be forced throught the intercooler and radiator?

Heh, I never thought of that, but I hope so! That means it would also be reducing the extra aero drag I'm incurring by running the vmount. I'd prefer then to think about it as the turbo inlet sucking the car forward!

Thinking about the math though, I think its unrealistic. I think I remember reading once it takes around 2CFM of air at sealevel to make 1HP. If I go for 400HP, I need 800CFM of air. My bumper duct is probably (conservatively) about 3ft^2 area so at 30mph I'm "scooping up" up to about 8000 CFM of air.

hades · 01-12-2011, 04:54 PM

where in the intake box you fab'd?

speedjunkie · 01-12-2011, 10:35 AM

As for fitting the strut bar on, how much higher is all that sitting? I put washers under my strut bar mounts but I'm about to get some spacers made by waterjet to put on each side. Let me know how thick you need them and I'll have some made for you too. I personally wouldn't go so thick that you can't fit the nut fully onto the threads, but that's just my preference. I want at least 1 thread to show on the top side of the nut.

I agree with Brian, that wrinkle powdercoat finish is awesome! I might have to copy that if you don't mind HAHA.

My IC piping is set up the same way too, basically touching each other with the coupler there just to make a seal, but mine is more ghetto than yours haha.

I like your cold air intake too, makes me think I need to get a smaller IC so I can have room to fit my filter like that too, and possibly get less of a pressure drop at the same time.

I didn't know Rotary Works made a TB elbow, that's awesome!

***TitaniumTT*** · 01-12-2011, 01:45 PM

No. Think about the surface area moving through the front bumper at a speed more than 10mph or 880ft/min.....

RCCAZ 1 · 01-12-2011, 05:13 PM

Jesse... are you planning to shroud that filter and the other open areas around the IC to force more air through the IC and radiator?

speedjunkie · 01-15-2011, 11:22 AM

^Good point, hadn't thought of that. That is getting pretty high. I don't have a stock hood so I forget how low they sit. They do sit pretty low right? lol

joff · 01-16-2011, 05:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by speedjunkie

^Good point, hadn't thought of that. That is getting pretty high. I don't have a stock hood so I forget how low they sit. They do sit pretty low right? lol

I have a Shine FEED hood with no skeleton which should help a bit. I also did slightly angle cut the RW elbow down. If its still too high, there would be absolutely no way this elbow would work anywhere as unlike everybody else with this elbow, I at least don't have to fit a silicon coupler and hose clamp since I had the next sections of tubing welded on.

Some new pics on the airbox progress: The kevlar fibers in the carbon/kevlar are about impossible to cut cleanly. I got a $30 pair of special "razor blade sharp" scissors and they still can hardly cut this fabric. Pure carbon fiber is so much easier to work with than this carbon/kevlar.

01-02-2011, 11:00 PM	#1
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	I think he's referring to Paul Yaw and his 12A port matched mani's that lost CFM.... It's odd I agree but makes me wonder none the less..... I've got a set of bone stock RE mani's that I should probably flow test. __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**

01-06-2011, 09:40 AM	#2
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	Another way to do it would be to soak a towel in acetone and pull it through with a line. Has always worked well for me. I've thought about extrude honing the manifolds, but can't really justify the near $700 __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**

01-12-2011, 12:26 AM	#7
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	Damn, that powdercoating looks fantastic. It really does. Gives me more motivation to redo mine. The fitment on the intercooler piping is top notch, well done. I would suggest NOT grinding the beads down though. I did this with a few pipes that I had ceramic coated, and they cracked.... so now they need to be re-coated... damnit. __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**

01-12-2011, 04:54 PM	#10
hades Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Freedom Land Posts: 316 Rep Power: 18	where in the intake box you fab'd? __________________ This is going to tear

01-12-2011, 01:45 PM	#12
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	No. Think about the surface area moving through the front bumper at a speed more than 10mph or 880ft/min..... __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**

01-10-2011, 08:11 PM	#4
chickenwafer Boost Whore Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Northern Colorado Posts: 33 Rep Power: 0	Looking good Jesse! Your attention to detail is awesome!

01-10-2011, 08:54 PM	#5
Doc-1 Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Madison Alabama Posts: 115 Rep Power: 18	Very Nice Very Nice Indeed

01-11-2011, 10:57 PM	#6
joff Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Mesa, Arizona Posts: 114 Rep Power: 17	I got all my intake tubing cut and welded this weekend. I was able to keep all bends relatively gentle, but man I am really getting sick of having to use this hack saw. Cutting a 4" cast aluminum elbow in half by hand (and all the other pieces) was a major PITA. I was able to get the fitment between sections within about 1/8" which should make couplers blowing off almost impossible. To minimize number of couplers, I also cut off the end of the cast Rotary-Works elbow and had pipe welded to that. I'm tempted to use Wiggins clamps on the intercooler piping, but don't really dig the purple anodizing. Next I'm going to grind the welds down, find somebody to put a bead on the ends and get the pieces powder coated wrinkle-black. BOV mount is going on the intercooler hot side. Tried to position the air filter perfectly for a cold air/ram air intake. This pic is from the front looking into the V of the V-mount with the bumper off. I do like the more gentle angle of the Rotary-works TB elbow as compared to the >90degree Greddy ones, but I don't think I'll be able to reuse the stock strut bar now without some custom mounts-- it sits pretty high. RCCAZ and dregg100 gave me a heads up Saturday that cutting off the air pump mount on the water pump housing would clean up some of the fuel rail plumbing later so I cut that piece off too with the hacksaw.

01-12-2011, 12:56 PM	#8
calicrewchief Rotary Tuner in Training Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Beaverton, OR Posts: 69 Rep Power: 17	Your setup looks great, but I don't see many vmounts where the intake is in the same compartment as the radiator and intercooler. Now this is my simple minded theory, but wont the turbo at full boost be taking away much of the cfm airflow that would be forced throught the intercooler and radiator?

01-12-2011, 10:35 AM	#11
speedjunkie RCC Loves Me Not You Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Colorado Springs, CO Posts: 2,089 Rep Power: 20	As for fitting the strut bar on, how much higher is all that sitting? I put washers under my strut bar mounts but I'm about to get some spacers made by waterjet to put on each side. Let me know how thick you need them and I'll have some made for you too. I personally wouldn't go so thick that you can't fit the nut fully onto the threads, but that's just my preference. I want at least 1 thread to show on the top side of the nut. I agree with Brian, that wrinkle powdercoat finish is awesome! I might have to copy that if you don't mind HAHA. My IC piping is set up the same way too, basically touching each other with the coupler there just to make a seal, but mine is more ghetto than yours haha. I like your cold air intake too, makes me think I need to get a smaller IC so I can have room to fit my filter like that too, and possibly get less of a pressure drop at the same time. I didn't know Rotary Works made a TB elbow, that's awesome!

01-12-2011, 05:13 PM	#13
RCCAZ 1 Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 288 Rep Power: 18	Jesse... are you planning to shroud that filter and the other open areas around the IC to force more air through the IC and radiator?

01-15-2011, 11:22 AM	#14
speedjunkie RCC Loves Me Not You Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Colorado Springs, CO Posts: 2,089 Rep Power: 20	^Good point, hadn't thought of that. That is getting pretty high. I don't have a stock hood so I forget how low they sit. They do sit pretty low right? lol