Mitchocalypse build V2

[Prodigy]

lazy ass, post more pictures!!!

Your not doing anything at work anyways...

J.

[Mitchocalypse]

Originally Posted by Prodigy

lazy ass, post more pictures!!!

Your not doing anything at work anyways...

J.

Ya but I don't have my camera here.

And I actually was doing shit today - hazing the new summer students.

[Mitchocalypse]

contents of the boxes:



Rad is probably the nices rad ive seen and the IC is THICK


Rad in:


and IC










Very nice finish to everything as you can see:




The water tank I have made the rad hose routing tricky but i found this bendy SS tube stuff and it worked great:

Easy side:


water tank side:




VMS vacuum manifold for an easy vac line solution:


and yeah now im a greddy fanboi

[RENESISFD]

It is going to be hard to get air out of that lower radiator hose with it looped like that.

[Mitchocalypse]

Originally Posted by RENESISFD

It is going to be hard to get air out of that lower radiator hose with it looped like that.

Crap never even thought about this. Glad you brought it up or I wouldn't have even realized.

I'm trying to think of an easy solution.. You think adding coolant while spinning the water pump would work? Like turn off the fuel pump and crank the engine over while filling coolant?

Actually no that sounds kinda sketchy. Like, the whole line is beneath the fill mark so maybe I just need to burp it a few more times than usual?

I dunno, got any suggestions?

[ninesixtwo]

weld a downwards facing 90 on the rad

[Prodigy]

or maybe try switching the inlet/outlets... the top drivers (rhd) side of your rad had a allen plug that can be used to bleed the air out of the radiator

you can see it in this picture


just a thought anyways

J.

[RX SE7EN]

it'll be fine. Just take the radiator cap off, start the car, hold a funnel in the filler neck with coolant in it, let the car warm up and then cool down a few times when doing this.

Doesn't need to be rocket science, i've seen cars work fine with much worse setups than that.

[speedjunkie]

Get a Lisle funnel. Specifically designed for getting all the air out.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...&keyword=24680

[TitaniumTT]

Rookies!
Change everything to-16 or -20 AN lines, this makes building lines much easier and get's rid of the SS bendy stuff. I've seen some people get away with never having leaks, then there are others like myself that use hardlines and silicone clamps and fight leaks FORFUCKINGEVER! First year I had my car on the road after the swap in 2008 or 2009 I fought leaks all year. That following winter cut every nipple off and welded on some -16 bungs and never had another coolant leak again.

Now for the air pocket problem.... here's my suggestion - Build an AST.
I would mount it on the shock tower and make that the highest point. Run a line from the rad to the AST, and then from the nipple on the top of the WP housing to the AST as well. I went a little farther and ran one from the turbo as well to make my thermal siphon a little more effective. I had in the past a line running from the nipple on the rear housing back to the WP housing, and now I have that as the feed for the water cooled WG's. The return from the AST should be a -10 and plumbed into the heater core return into the lower portion of the WP housing.

Trust me, you'll appreciate this advice

I never have to burp my cooling system. Seriously.... never.... last week when we were leaving for DGRR I opened the AST, dumped in a gallon of coolant (and when I say dumped I mean as fast as I could pour it into the AST was as fast as the cooling system would accept it because all the air was being pushed out and into the AST from the three air bleeds - the rad, the WP housing, and the turbo cooling line), dumped in a gallon of dist water.... thought it would've been overfilled but it wasn't so I added maybe a quart of Poland spring water... not pleased but it was all we had... never burped it, just started it, checked for leaks and kept on going.

[TitaniumTT]

Nice work though Mitch! I like it.

That huge tank that is on the normal drivers side I'm guessing that's a tank for a mechanical water injection system?

[Mitchocalypse]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Rookies!
Change everything to-16 or -20 AN lines, this makes building lines much easier and get's rid of the SS bendy stuff. I've seen some people get away with never having leaks, then there are others like myself that use hardlines and silicone clamps and fight leaks FORFUCKINGEVER! First year I had my car on the road after the swap in 2008 or 2009 I fought leaks all year. That following winter cut every nipple off and welded on some -16 bungs and never had another coolant leak again.

Now for the air pocket problem.... here's my suggestion - Build an AST.
I would mount it on the shock tower and make that the highest point. Run a line from the rad to the AST, and then from the nipple on the top of the WP housing to the AST as well. I went a little farther and ran one from the turbo as well to make my thermal siphon a little more effective. I had in the past a line running from the nipple on the rear housing back to the WP housing, and now I have that as the feed for the water cooled WG's. The return from the AST should be a -10 and plumbed into the heater core return into the lower portion of the WP housing.

Trust me, you'll appreciate this advice

I never have to burp my cooling system. Seriously.... never.... last week when we were leaving for DGRR I opened the AST, dumped in a gallon of coolant (and when I say dumped I mean as fast as I could pour it into the AST was as fast as the cooling system would accept it because all the air was being pushed out and into the AST from the three air bleeds - the rad, the WP housing, and the turbo cooling line), dumped in a gallon of dist water.... thought it would've been overfilled but it wasn't so I added maybe a quart of Poland spring water... not pleased but it was all we had... never burped it, just started it, checked for leaks and kept on going.

This seems like a very nice add-on and possibly down the road i can see myself doing something like this. Right now the focus is getting it out of the garage though haha

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Nice work though Mitch! I like it.

That huge tank that is on the normal drivers side I'm guessing that's a tank for a mechanical water injection system?

Thank you and yes thats exactly what its for. You might recognize it from the original RICESP buildup




After a long as time of trouble shooting some issue (mostly spark but other things as well) .. its alive.

Theres not much a picture update i could post at this point so i have a few videos. First is just idling, second i try to rev it a bit. It cuts at 2k rpm which is (hopefully) because the timing is not calibrated properly and is retarded somewhat. Im having someone come over this weekend hopefully who can help me set this properly on the ecu then I can drive it and break in the engine.

I know for a fact there is a slight exhaust leak right at the v-band connection to the turbo which probably contributes somewhat but this car as it is is fucking retarded loud. I hope fixing that exhaust leak tones it down a bit. I know its in a garage but still.. just nutty.

[chibikougan]

Beauty Eh!

[RICE RACING]

The engine sounds like it does not have enough fuel going through it, so one simple test is wind up your fuel pressure regulator to 60psi from the ~45psi it set at now and take another video.... it should sound better.

Will need to be remapped to suit the street port as its was run on a stock 13B-REW donk as sent to you.

[Mitchocalypse]

Originally Posted by chibikougan

Beauty Eh!

EH?

Originally Posted by RICE RACING

The engine sounds like it does not have enough fuel going through it, so one simple test is wind up your fuel pressure regulator to 60psi from the ~45psi it set at now and take another video.... it should sound better.

Will need to be remapped to suit the street port as its was run on a stock 13B-REW donk as sent to you.

Okay I'll do this as well as check the timing and adjust if need be. AFR should be a clear indication of fuel as well, correct?