RXtacy's slooow build up

[RENESISFD]

That seems like the only one that flattened out. You can cheat and put it in the vise and squeeze it back into shape. It is best if you have plastic or aluminum jaws so you do not mar the stainless. Sometimes that works.

Nice work on the lines. It takes so much time but is worth it at the end.

Are you going to make a hardline turbo oil drain as well?

[RXtacy]

Originally Posted by RENESISFD

That seems like the only one that flattened out. You can cheat and put it in the vise and squeeze it back into shape. It is best if you have plastic or aluminum jaws so you do not mar the stainless. Sometimes that works.

Nice work on the lines. It takes so much time but is worth it at the end.

Are you going to make a hardline turbo oil drain as well?

That's not a bad idea. I have the aluminum AN jaws that might work. I may give that a shot thanks

Thanks, yea it does but I totally agree when it's done it looks so good. Maybe it reminds me of my childhood playing with these but who knows



Yea I plan to do all the turbo lines in hardlines as well. I need to find a bender that can handle the -10 though.

[RENESISFD]

I have aluminum banjo fittings on my turbo, the anodizing is heat faded but they did not melt. I too have a good thermal siphon. I think that is something that is commonly overlooked when installing a turbo. The steel is a helluva lot cheaper though.


I could not find a -10 bender that would do a tight radius and allow me to make a hardline turbo drain that way. I ended up purchasing a -10 adapter to bolt to the bottom on the turbo then bought a -10 fitting with the pipe coming out of it and welded the flex joint from the stock turbo drain to it and modified a few other things as well. It was a PITA, especially with the engine in the car. I may remake it so it is a bit cleaner than what I have.

I am interested to see what you come up with.

Here is a pic to show what I am talking about. Hope you don't mind me posting it here...

[speedjunkie]

Originally Posted by RXtacy

Maybe the price increase has something to do with the availability

I would be surprised if it couldn't, and I would definitely want to log MAP.

Steel or aluminum fitting coming off the turbo? I've seen coolant feed lines melt several times now. Using steel fittings instead of aluminum and having it properly clocked for thermal siphoning seemed to alleviate that however.

Maybe lol, I have no idea. Now they offer 1800 degree and 2000 degree coatings as well, so I'll probably pay extra for that when the time comes haha.

I never thought of logging MAP. I'll look into that. Maybe a stupid question, but what are the benefits of that?

I have aluminum banjo fittings right now, it's the only thing I could use since I have very little clearance on the turbo to LIM and turbo to strut tower. I haven't had any issues with anything melting. The EFR has two coolant ports on each side, and they tell you to hook the feed line on the lower port on one side and the return line on the top port of the opposite side, I assume that's what you're talking about with thermal siphoning.

Originally Posted by RENESISFD

I have aluminum banjo fittings on my turbo, the anodizing is heat faded but they did not melt. I too have a good thermal siphon. I think that is something that is commonly overlooked when installing a turbo. The steel is a helluva lot cheaper though.


I could not find a -10 bender that would do a tight radius and allow me to make a hardline turbo drain that way. I ended up purchasing a -10 adapter to bolt to the bottom on the turbo then bought a -10 fitting with the pipe coming out of it and welded the flex joint from the stock turbo drain to it and modified a few other things as well. It was a PITA, especially with the engine in the car. I may remake it so it is a bit cleaner than what I have.

I am interested to see what you come up with.

That's a cool setup also. Are you going to use hard lines for the vacuum lines too? Right now I'm using nylon braided lines with AN fittings for my vacuum lines on the WGs, also wrapped in heat barrier.

[RENESISFD]

^, yes, I use stainless hardline on the wastegates vacuum lines. I just do not have them pictured. This pic was taken after I blew my motor this year. I had 5k miles on the turbo setup and lines at the time. 70k mi on the stock motor.

[RXtacy]

Originally Posted by RENESISFD

I have aluminum banjo fittings on my turbo, the anodizing is heat faded but they did not melt. I too have a good thermal siphon. I think that is something that is commonly overlooked when installing a turbo. The steel is a helluva lot cheaper though.

The proper set up for thermal siphon definitely seems to make a big difference. If that's properly set up steel vs aluminum probably doesn't matter. Although I couldn't find any black or silver aluminum banjo fittings which does matter so I went with steel.

On Brian's car we didn't have the turbo clocked enough and were using aluminum hose ends/banjo fittings. It ended up actually melting the rubber inside the braided hose. This happened at DGRR last year after pulling 24+ hrs to finish the car and tuning it the morning before leaving We swapped the hose end for a steel fitting and it survived the rest of the weekend and drive home no problem.

I could not find a -10 bender that would do a tight radius and allow me to make a hardline turbo drain that way. I ended up purchasing a -10 adapter to bolt to the bottom on the turbo then bought a -10 fitting with the pipe coming out of it and welded the flex joint from the stock turbo drain to it and modified a few other things as well. It was a PITA, especially with the engine in the car. I may remake it so it is a bit cleaner than what I have.

I am interested to see what you come up with.

What was the tightest you found? I've been looking at this one, but it's not a super tight radius.

http://www.amazon.com/Yellow-Jacket-...m_sbs_indust_1

If I can't make it work, I'll do a braided/fire sleeved flex line.

Here is a pic to show what I am talking about. Hope you don't mind me posting it here...

Not at all.

Originally Posted by speedjunkie

Maybe lol, I have no idea. Now they offer 1800 degree and 2000 degree coatings as well, so I'll probably pay extra for that when the time comes haha.

I never thought of logging MAP. I'll look into that. Maybe a stupid question, but what are the benefits of that?

Manifold air pressure (MAP) is the boost the engine is seeing. Would serve similarly to your peak hold, but a log of the entire run or however long you have logging set up for. It would especially be useful if you had some sort of catastrophic failure. You could also plot it vs rpm and show off how quickly your turbo spools

I have aluminum banjo fittings right now, it's the only thing I could use since I have very little clearance on the turbo to LIM and turbo to strut tower.

I know them feels

I haven't had any issues with anything melting. The EFR has two coolant ports on each side, and they tell you to hook the feed line on the lower port on one side and the return line on the top port of the opposite side, I assume that's what you're talking about with thermal siphoning.

Yea exactly. After the water pump is off the thermal affects will continue to pull coolant through the turbo if your supply port is lower than your return port.

That's a cool setup also. Are you going to use hard lines for the vacuum lines too? Right now I'm using nylon braided lines with AN fittings for my vacuum lines on the WGs, also wrapped in heat barrier.

Do you know if your lines are rated for vacuum? A lot of braided lines aren't, might not be a bad idea to check with a mitty vac.

Originally Posted by RENESISFD

^, yes, I use stainless hardline on the wastegates vacuum lines. I just do not have them pictured. This pic was taken after I blew my motor this year. I had 5k miles on the turbo setup and lines at the time. 70k mi on the stock motor.

Do you have a pic of that? I'd be interested to see how you have it set up. Are you using a 4 port solenoid for boost control? Using a vacuum manifold?

[speedjunkie]

Originally Posted by RXtacy

Manifold air pressure (MAP) is the boost the engine is seeing. Would serve similarly to your peak hold, but a log of the entire run or however long you have logging set up for. It would especially be useful if you had some sort of catastrophic failure. You could also plot it vs rpm and show off how quickly your turbo spools

I know them feels

Yea exactly. After the water pump is off the thermal affects will continue to pull coolant through the turbo if your supply port is lower than your return port.

Do you know if your lines are rated for vacuum? A lot of braided lines aren't, might not be a bad idea to check with a mitty vac.

Hmmmm, that does sound like a good idea. I'll check on that to see if it has that capability. I've also thought about getting a turbo speed sensor.

I've thought about redoing the manifold, maybe in Schedule 40 next time and more evenly like yours and to fix the slant (the current mani has a 5 degree slant down towards the front of the car), but with the way this turbo is made I'm not sure I'd have much luck. If I do though, I'm going to see if I can get enough room to use either hard lines or AN.

OK I think my turbo has good thermal siphoning then.

I have no idea if they're rated for vacuum, I didn't even think to check.

[RENESISFD]

^ This is the best I could find. I wanna redo it and make the lines shorter and use some different fitting to route the lines better and relocate the solenoid. Since I have the engine out this year I will get some pics but hopefully you will have yours done by then. Yes it is a 4 port.




this is a better pic showing the drain. I think it looks a bit crude and will probably try to make something a bit better and more professional looking.

[RXtacy]

Originally Posted by RENESISFD

^ This is the best I could find. I wanna redo it and make the lines shorter and use some different fitting to route the lines better and relocate the solenoid. Since I have the engine out this year I will get some pics but hopefully you will have yours done by then. Yes it is a 4 port.

Hopefully...

this is a better pic showing the drain. I think it looks a bit crude and will probably try to make something a bit better and more professional looking.

Gotcha, hey you gotta do what ya gotta do sometimes.

[RXtacy]

Originally Posted by RENESISFD

^ This is the best I could find. I wanna redo it and make the lines shorter and use some different fitting to route the lines better and relocate the solenoid. Since I have the engine out this year I will get some pics but hopefully you will have yours done by then. Yes it is a 4 port.

this is a better pic showing the drain. I think it looks a bit crude and will probably try to make something a bit better and more professional looking.

Where did you find the reducing Tee fittings btw if you don't mind me asking?

[RENESISFD]

T-fittings from anplumbing.com. They were not cheap.


http://www.anplumbing.com/Adapters/Special+Tees-27.html

[kraftjason413]

If I may step back a bit, could you explain the benefit of using the RX8 eccentric shaft? Sorry if I pull this off track a little, it's just that I am new to these cars and getting ideas for a project under my hood.
As well, does every FD owner on here have their own shop/lift/welding gear? I keep viewing these build posts where everyone has these capabilities. I wish that I did myself.

[Fendamonky]

Originally Posted by kraftjason413

If I may step back a bit, could you explain the benefit of using the RX8 eccentric shaft? Sorry if I pull this off track a little, it's just that I am new to these cars and getting ideas for a project under my hood.

The reason(s) people tend to go with them is that A) they are cheaper to buy new from Mazda than the FD ones, and B) they are slightly lighter than the FD ones.

[Turblown]

Any updates ?

[RXtacy]

Originally Posted by Turblown

Any updates ?

Just got back from ~month in Japan so haven't made any progress on the car. Hopefully will have some updates soon though