Alternator question, battery is discharging quickly.

***TitaniumTT*** · 02-28-2017, 09:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FC Zach

Alright, will do.
Alright, currently have one wire (S Terminal) temporarily ran to the battery. "L Terminal" pending till I find the proper resistor and a switched 12v source.

Kewl

Quote:

Originally Posted by FC Zach

Noted. .
No idea, I'll share a picture of it later.
Ten four
I'll look into this

From the factory, that's where the two harnesses meet, down below the masters on the framerail

Quote:

Originally Posted by FC Zach

Test connector? ? was secured to the backside of the fuse block bracket.

First thought was AAS and it does look like F-14, AAS connector, pg 50-80

Quote:

Originally Posted by FC Zach

Since this is out and it may not be wise to tap into an unused injector wire in the Ludwig harness, I will search for a different source later down the road. Till then I'll make temporary connections.

That's kinda what I'm thinking.
The Alt charge wire is going to either the fuse block or the battery itself. Either way running them with the charge cable, like the factory did, would be the tidiest way to do it. It's just a matter of finding the proper wires and terminating them in a tidy way.

Quote:

Originally Posted by FC Zach

Oh, I took a picture of the resistors I have laying around. . What are the chances any of these are the right ones?
[img]https://c1.staticflickr.

Probably pretty good

infernosg · 03-01-2017, 09:26 AM

The stock S5 setup had the sense wire (larger white/blue wire) going to the EGI fuse in the main fuse block in the engine bay. The field wire (smaller white/black wire) went to the light in the warning cluster as mentioned previously. I left the field wire alone but since my harness is so cut up I spliced the sense wire into the headlight power circuit. I figure the electrical load increased quite a bit with the lights on so this would be a good source to use to tell the alternator to output more juice.

***TitaniumTT*** · 03-01-2017, 10:23 AM

Exactly 100% correct. Although... I would check the output at the post on the alt just to make sure that it isn't overcharging.

t_g_farrell · 03-02-2017, 09:02 AM

Heres a nice page someone did on the alternator swaps and wiring them up.

http://www.rx7.org/public/altxref.html

***TitaniumTT*** · 03-03-2017, 09:46 AM

Ok, so I went to go take a look at the resistors that I set up.... I did a little heatshrinking over the resistors so I couldn't identify them that way, I should've just ohmed them out, I'll try that tomorrow when I'm back at the shop, in the meatime, Ohms law tells me to start with the 150ohm resistor that you have and measure the voltage at the corresponding pins as per the FSM. There should be 1.2v drop across them

FC Zach · 03-06-2017, 03:58 AM

I swapped my trans/clutch this weekend and since the power harness was mostly disconnected I went ahead and removed it completely. . thing is haggard to say the least. It wasn't hard for me to pull the loom apart to expose wires since the electrical tape was rotted and crumbled away. The OE alt. wires for the "T" shaped connector were nowhere to be found. .

With this said, I emailed Chris Ludwig asking if this harness is something he can make. . If not, does anyone have any recommendations on where to get this harness or have one made?

***TitaniumTT*** · 03-06-2017, 01:55 PM

Really simple Zac, locate the FE-03 connector down by the mess over by the masters.

It's a 6 pin connector on the front harness. It will have a B/W and a W/B wire there. Pin them out to make sure they work properly. If they do, than any sort of connector to jump from the FE-03 connector over to the Alt will work just fine. No need for custom harnesses here, as much as I love them

FC Zach · 03-07-2017, 01:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Really simple Zac, locate the FE-03 connector down by the mess over by the masters.

It's a 6 pin connector on the front harness. It will have a B/W and a W/B wire there. Pin them out to make sure they work properly. If they do, than any sort of connector to jump from the FE-03 connector over to the Alt will work just fine.

Thanks Brian! Regardless of whether I find a harness or not, I may do this. Just to clarify things, this is the wire I will run with a 150ohm resistor correct? What about a diode, I read that it's recommended if wired a certain way but I'm unsure if I need this if run to the wire in the connector mentioned. . . Schawry, I schtooped on deez thangz.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

No need for custom harnesses here, as much as I love them

Well, this is really more of a want than a need since the thing is in rough shape. There are exposed wire to the transmission connectors, busted connectors, broken wire/terminals at connectors, and unnecessary/unused connectors.

***TitaniumTT*** · 03-07-2017, 09:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FC Zach

Thanks Brian! Regardless of whether I find a harness or not, I may do this. Just to clarify things, this is the wire I will run with a 150ohm resistor correct? What about a diode, I read that it's recommended if wired a certain way but I'm unsure if I need this if run to the wire in the connector mentioned. . . Schawry, I schtooped on deez thangz.

Cheers brotha!
Ok, I just thought of another option here....
Since the harness is fucocked right now, what you could do is re-task the leading coil wires since everything you need is right there

The leading coil (and this is from memory so bear with me) has two wires that connect to it. G/Y and B/Y. The G/Y should be dead at this point in it's life however, the B/Y is off the main relay and will be hot with the key in the start and run position. So, the B/W wire can be used as the key hot with the resistor wired in place. Then since you're right by the battery anyway, you can connect the "sense" wire directly to the M6 bolt on the fuse block.
As a bonus you can replace the charge cable as well

Is your oil pressure gauge and low oil light still functional?

Quote:

Originally Posted by FC Zach

Well, this is really more of a want than a need since the thing is in rough shape. There are exposed wire to the transmission connectors, busted connectors, broken wire/terminals at connectors, and unnecessary/unused connectors.

In that case what I would do is take all the connectors off the factory harness and use some Deutsch DTM connectors to replace all the factory ones.

Also, aside from the reverse switch, the other two switchs are no longer needed.

FC Zach · 03-08-2017, 12:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Cheers brotha!
Ok, I just thought of another option here....
Since the harness is fucocked right now, what you could do is re-task the leading coil wires since everything you need is right there

The leading coil (and this is from memory so bear with me) has two wires that connect to it. G/Y and B/Y. The G/Y should be dead at this point in it's life however, the B/Y is off the main relay and will be hot with the key in the start and run position. So, the B/W wire can be used as the key hot with the resistor wired in place. Then since you're right by the battery anyway, you can connect the "sense" wire directly to the M6 bolt on the fuse block.

I like this, sounds simple enough!

Quote:

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

As a bonus you can replace the charge cable as well

I'd like to replace the whole thing, everything is brittle.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Is your oil pressure gauge and low oil light still functional?

Pressure, yes but oil level is disconnected.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

In that case what I would do is take all the connectors off the factory harness and use some Deutsch DTM connectors to replace all the factory ones.

eh, I'd rather have this done by someone with all the tools and materials already in hand.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Also, aside from the reverse switch, the other two switchs are no longer needed.

True, I didn't have them connected on the last tranny.

FC Zach · 03-08-2017, 12:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t_g_farrell

Heres a nice page someone did on the alternator swaps and wiring them up.

http://www.rx7.org/public/altxref.html

I meant to comment on this last week. . . This would be a great write-up/how-to but that's assuming one has all the OE wiring intact, not the case for me so I'll be building from scratch.

Thanks for the info though, it did help.

***TitaniumTT*** · 03-08-2017, 10:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FC Zach

I like this, sounds simple enough!
I'd like to replace the whole thing, everything is brittle.

30 yo wiring is crispy?!?! Say it isn't so

It should be relatively simple, I can only think of 5 wires you needs. Alt charge, Alt control *2, oil pressure and oil level. They should all be on that FE-03 connector

Quote:

Originally Posted by FC Zach

eh, I'd rather have this done by someone with all the tools and materials already in hand.

Welp, you can go here (I've been doing business with Joe for a LONG time) and get the kits of the connectors https://prowireusa.com/c-76-deutsch-...ctor-kits.aspx

Just order them with the solid pins. Then you just need this little guy
https://prowireusa.com/p-1813-deutsc...rimp-tool.aspx

Quote:

Originally Posted by FC Zach

True, I didn't have them connected on the last tranny.

There's no need. I just break the wires off at the switch.

C. Ludwig · 03-10-2017, 06:27 AM

.

FC Zach · 03-10-2017, 08:44 AM

^ Can't see on desktop or phone. . However I was able to see the shared pic from my email notification.

This it?

FC Zach · 03-10-2017, 08:50 AM

I like that, is very useful. There's no gray area. . It is: Do it this way or this could happen. Pretty cut and dry, that's what I was looking for.

03-01-2017, 09:26 AM	#47
infernosg IT'S ALIVE! Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Richmond, VA iTrader: (5) Posts: 811 Rep Power: 15	The stock S5 setup had the sense wire (larger white/blue wire) going to the EGI fuse in the main fuse block in the engine bay. The field wire (smaller white/black wire) went to the light in the warning cluster as mentioned previously. I left the field wire alone but since my harness is so cut up I spliced the sense wire into the headlight power circuit. I figure the electrical load increased quite a bit with the lights on so this would be a good source to use to tell the alternator to output more juice. __________________ '86 Mazda RX-7 Base '79 Mazda RX-7 GS

03-01-2017, 10:23 AM	#48
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son iTrader: (4) Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	Exactly 100% correct. Although... I would check the output at the post on the alt just to make sure that it isn't overcharging. __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**

03-02-2017, 09:02 AM	#49
t_g_farrell Waffles - hmmm good Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Huntersville, NC iTrader: (0) Posts: 757 Rep Power: 0	Heres a nice page someone did on the alternator swaps and wiring them up. http://www.rx7.org/public/altxref.html __________________ 1980 GS stockport, Fat Nikki, RB Dual Facetfuel pumps, Holley regulator, RB Street port exhaust, 2GDFIS, MR2 MK I electric fans, 2G strut bar, relayed fans, lights and fuel pump, LEDs Project Fat Nikki Budget 12A rebuild Video setup < $30.00

03-03-2017, 09:46 AM	#50
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son iTrader: (4) Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	Ok, so I went to go take a look at the resistors that I set up.... I did a little heatshrinking over the resistors so I couldn't identify them that way, I should've just ohmed them out, I'll try that tomorrow when I'm back at the shop, in the meatime, Ohms law tells me to start with the 150ohm resistor that you have and measure the voltage at the corresponding pins as per the FSM. There should be 1.2v drop across them __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**

03-06-2017, 03:58 AM	#51
FC Zach RCC Loves Me Not You Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Eagleville, TN iTrader: (2) Posts: 2,267 Rep Power: 19	I swapped my trans/clutch this weekend and since the power harness was mostly disconnected I went ahead and removed it completely. . thing is haggard to say the least. It wasn't hard for me to pull the loom apart to expose wires since the electrical tape was rotted and crumbled away. The OE alt. wires for the "T" shaped connector were nowhere to be found. . With this said, I emailed Chris Ludwig asking if this harness is something he can make. . If not, does anyone have any recommendations on where to get this harness or have one made? __________________ 1993 Yamaha GTS1000 1992 Celica Turbo AllTrac 1987 RX7 Sport 1979 Yamaha G1, KM24 powered 1975 Dolmar KMS4

03-06-2017, 01:55 PM	#52
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son iTrader: (4) Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	Really simple Zac, locate the FE-03 connector down by the mess over by the masters. It's a 6 pin connector on the front harness. It will have a B/W and a W/B wire there. Pin them out to make sure they work properly. If they do, than any sort of connector to jump from the FE-03 connector over to the Alt will work just fine. No need for custom harnesses here, as much as I love them __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**

03-10-2017, 06:27 AM	#58
C. Ludwig Rotary Masochist Join Date: May 2008 Location: Floyds Knobs, IN iTrader: (5) Posts: 494 Rep Power: 17	. __________________ _______________________________________________ *One stop Haltech, AEM, Syvecs shopping. Installation and tuning.* http://www.lms-efi.com *Free support. Drop us an email.* chris@lms-efi.com 502-515-7482 Facebook @LMS-EFI Last edited by C. Ludwig; 03-10-2017 at 06:29 AM..

03-10-2017, 08:50 AM	#60
FC Zach RCC Loves Me Not You Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Eagleville, TN iTrader: (2) Posts: 2,267 Rep Power: 19	I like that, is very useful. There's no gray area. . It is: Do it this way or this could happen. Pretty cut and dry, that's what I was looking for. __________________ 1993 Yamaha GTS1000 1992 Celica Turbo AllTrac 1987 RX7 Sport 1979 Yamaha G1, KM24 powered 1975 Dolmar KMS4