Naomi: Can't keep a good bitch down! - Page 4

Sharingan 19 · 06-14-2012, 04:32 PM

Typically your first trip after replacing all your steering components would be to the alignment shop. Being that I had already spent my ramen budget on car parts, I wan't to keen on that idea. Since toe settings are responsible for most accelerated tire wire I found a solution to keep that in check.

Toe Plates. I got the idea from my roomate who was an engineering student and intern for a race team. They use them all the time (a much nice version than what I created for $8 at harbor freight) to set toe during qualifying and such.

The concept is simple, line the plates up parallel to the face of the wheel (I used the bungie cord to keep it snug)

Then measure the distance between the front edges of the plates and the back edges.
If the distance between the front edge(s) is greater than distance between the rears then you have toe out. If the opposite is true you have toe in.

Sharingan 19 · 06-14-2012, 04:34 PM

In the search for replacement parts I hit up a junk yard in Tallahassee, and made a bittersweet discovery...

Its a 10th Anniversary Edition. I later found out I knew the guy who owned it and he had gotten into some legal trouble so it sat in impound for weeks before being towed to the yard :sad:

Ok, enough nostalgia....Determined not to let such rare pieces go to waste I pretty much stripped it bare. Windows, hatch, dash, interior, LSD, axles, sub-frame etc. Unfortunately the engine and emblems were already gone...oh well

Bringing home the goods

Little elbow grease and a lot of wire wheel action...

MUCH better

Stored away waiting for a couple goodies

Sharingan 19 · 07-09-2012, 01:51 PM

Now is where the real work begins...

Step one: remove my once beautiful Greddy exhaust :sad:

Step two: attempt to loosen a ton of greasy stubborn botls

Notice the nice line of axle grease that my busted half shaft saw fit to decorate my undercariage with. Notice that although old the boot is not actually leaking. the grease is coming from the flange where the half shaft bolts to the output shaft on the diff...

Time to let the PB Blaster put in some work...

Sharingan 19 · 07-09-2012, 01:52 PM

Back to work.
For the record, rear tension rods are NOT strong enough to use as a brace while you break loose the nuts on your axle nuts. But it had already been bent and re-straightened once so it was on the "replace" list regardless.

Marking the drive shaft flange orientation

Free at last!

Oh, what a surprise....Broken front diff mounts are a VERY common problem due largely to the ingenious design which includes relies on the shear strength of a rubber block to combat the pitch and dive of the drive shaft and nose of the diff wanting to go in opposite directions under acceleration /deceleration.

Diff was yanked and sent off to be freshened up with new seals and have the wear on the clutch plates inspected. See that cap next to the driver side axle? apparently when I was run off the road it put enough force on the axle to drive it into the cup, displacing enough grease/air to force the cap out of the backside. Since the axle was bolted to the flange it couldn't fall out so it simply allowed axle grease to be flung all over the place.....good to know.

Sharingan 19 · 07-09-2012, 01:52 PM

And this is why its great to have friend's w/ awesome gf's who are willing to use oven cleaner for something other than its intedned purpose...

Sharingan 19 · 07-09-2012, 01:53 PM

While they were cleaning up I took the time to clean up and wrap the Racing Beat downpipe I picked up for the low, couldn't wait to get rid of this stock POS.

RB DP as delivered

Sanded, ceramic painted, wrapped

A little silicon spray for good measure

Sharingan 19 · 07-09-2012, 01:55 PM

While I had half the car apart already I decided to remedy the oh so annoying coolant passage o-rings that I'd put off for months:

Turbo off

LIM off, lets see what we're workin with....

And here is the cause of all this strife.....Classy

Better

More awfulness

Better, not show quality, but no one well ever see this once its together

New gasket, new o-rings and enough RTV to ensure I won't be doing this again

What I DID have to do though was find some oil meter pump lines, since the ones going to the LIM were broken off during the course of this repair....one more thing on the list.

Raksj04 · 07-09-2012, 03:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sharingan 19

The question then became how to finance the Rotary Resurrection...

I have a pic like that too.

speedjunkie · 07-10-2012, 11:19 AM

Makes me sick to see a 10AE in the junkyard, especially for that reason. Well I hate to see ANY rotary in the junkyard, but one so rare makes it even worse.

Sharingan 19 · 07-17-2012, 06:15 PM

Since I had to order the OMP lines from somewhere I returned focus to the original problem(s) suspension. Some goodies arrived from MMR:

Camber adjustment links for the rear. Since I'm using these I had to retain the stock rear control arm bushings...one less thing to buy. Next to the stock link

Delrin rear diff mounts

Diff back from the shop, new output shaft seals, new pinion seal, new mazdazpeed front diff mount

Everything mocked up getting ready for install

Hoisted into its new home

Sharingan 19 · 07-17-2012, 06:15 PM

It was then time to address the half shafts.
this was the driver side shaft where the end cap was forced out...who ordered the pudding?

Step One: dissasembly There is a circular retaining clip just under the inside lip of the cup. Simply pry that out with a pick or screwdriver...

and the shaft should slide right out , and drop nasty greasy balls in your lap....or onto your prepared work surface.

Step Two: Cleaning I don't know the best substance to clean off old axle grease in 20 degree weather, but I know what it ISN'T....Acetone. That's all my buddy had, but I ended up resorting to dish soap and a pile of paper towels.

Step Three: Reassembly Now that everything is clean, time to dirty up again with fresh grease. I went with the heaviest synthetic import specific grease I could find at the parts store, I think it was made by valvoline.

Don't forget to re-install the retaining clip

This was my "solution" for that end cap that was forced out (because i couldn't source another cup and couldn't afford a new axle). The mating surface was coated with RTV, in retrospect perhaps jb weld would have been a better option....time will tell.

(Optional) Step Four: Prep/ProtectionA little paint never hurt anybody...

Sharingan 19 · 07-17-2012, 06:16 PM

Since once strut was already blown on the GC/tociko blue setup (and they don't go that low anyway) I was in the market for another suspension solution. I seriously considered keeping the GC's (especially since I got such a deal on them) but by the time I bought a full set of struts, and camber plates or RB lowering strut mounts I would have been way over budget.

Fortunately I found another great deal on a set of brand new coilovers. Apparently they were a gift from someone's GF who mistakenly got FC coils for an FD, but before they could be returned, the relationship went sour (perhaps because of...?). I sold the GC setup and was only out of pocket a a couple hundred bucks.
K-Sport Control Pros 8kg/6kg

I know the Control Pro's are pretty basic, but they are better than stockish struts and they provide camber adjustment. When my driving ability and the rest of the car exceed their capability they will be replaced, but until then I couldn't be happier
Front

Rear

Sharingan 19 · 07-17-2012, 06:16 PM

Now that she was no longer dangerous to drive, it was time to address the cosmetic aspects. First was the mirror, but as I went to install it I realized it didn't make sense to install a good mirror on a bad door, so of to the yard again...

Found this little gem, 87 sport with complete aero package woot! But the reason I came...

Probably one of the worst colors to sand to bare metal in direct sunlight, so hard to tell when you're finished,

Wire wheel got old, and I got smart. Aircraft Stripper FTW!

Silver insides would annoy me

Since the new door was manual and mine are power I had to swap out all the guts....fun

Once the inside was dry, time to paint the outside.
Note: the inside was sprayed with primer and then given a coat of rustoleum gloss black, the outside however is coated in chalk board paint.
The workspace

And the finished product...

I decided not to put the molding on for a number of reasons.
1) My S4 molding was destroyed by the nascar antics of the ford explorer
2) I plan to convert to S5 exterior anyway so its hard to justify buying s4 molding
3) Not sure how well the paint would stick to plastic especially flexible plastic
4) My door is a dammit chalk board! I doubt a trim piece will keep me from winning the concours de elegance

Sharingan 19 · 07-17-2012, 06:18 PM

Riding around like this (open downpipe) got load pretty quick.....and pretty annoying a little while after that.

Enter another amazing deal, a buddy of mine sold his T2 but kept the RB exhaust because the buyer couldn't afford both. He packed it up and stored it but never actively tried to sell it. Fast forward a few years.....I happen to mention I'm in the market and he "thinks he may have a turbo-back FC exhaust he'll sell me for $250"....ok. Well turns out he lost the midpipe so I got it for $200....even better!

Of course not having a mid-pipe did present a small problem, but nothing that couldn't be solved with this. Borla XR-1 3in inlet 3in outlet .

As I don't weld it was off to the local muffler shop to bring it all together

Stock turbo outlet --> 3" downpipe --> 3" Borla XR-1 --> Ypipe --> Dual 2.5" Racing Beat cannisters

Actually turned out to be a bit more quiet than I was expecting/hoping for...oh well stealth status.

Sharingan 19 · 07-17-2012, 06:21 PM

Once the exhaust was squared away it was time to turn to the intake. The stock turbo inlet duct was full of cracks and beyond repair so I picked up the Corksport aluminum TID. Pretty well made piece. My only gripe was that they didn't have any black couplers at the time that I orded so i ended up with red...oh well.

06-14-2012, 04:32 PM	#46
Sharingan 19 Rotary Fanatic Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 138 Rep Power: 15	Toe Plates Typically your first trip after replacing all your steering components would be to the alignment shop. Being that I had already spent my ramen budget on car parts, I wan't to keen on that idea. Since toe settings are responsible for most accelerated tire wire I found a solution to keep that in check. Toe Plates. I got the idea from my roomate who was an engineering student and intern for a race team. They use them all the time (a much nice version than what I created for $8 at harbor freight) to set toe during qualifying and such. The concept is simple, line the plates up parallel to the face of the wheel (I used the bungie cord to keep it snug) Then measure the distance between the front edges of the plates and the back edges. If the distance between the front edge(s) is greater than distance between the rears then you have toe out. If the opposite is true you have toe in.

06-14-2012, 04:34 PM	#47
Sharingan 19 Rotary Fanatic Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 138 Rep Power: 15	10AE lend me your parts! In the search for replacement parts I hit up a junk yard in Tallahassee, and made a bittersweet discovery... Its a 10th Anniversary Edition. I later found out I knew the guy who owned it and he had gotten into some legal trouble so it sat in impound for weeks before being towed to the yard :sad: Ok, enough nostalgia....Determined not to let such rare pieces go to waste I pretty much stripped it bare. Windows, hatch, dash, interior, LSD, axles, sub-frame etc. Unfortunately the engine and emblems were already gone...oh well Bringing home the goods Little elbow grease and a lot of wire wheel action... MUCH better Stored away waiting for a couple goodies

07-09-2012, 01:51 PM	#48
Sharingan 19 Rotary Fanatic Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 138 Rep Power: 15	Now is where the real work begins... Step one: remove my once beautiful Greddy exhaust :sad: Step two: attempt to loosen a ton of greasy stubborn botls Notice the nice line of axle grease that my busted half shaft saw fit to decorate my undercariage with. Notice that although old the boot is not actually leaking. the grease is coming from the flange where the half shaft bolts to the output shaft on the diff... Time to let the PB Blaster put in some work...

07-09-2012, 01:52 PM	#49
Sharingan 19 Rotary Fanatic Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 138 Rep Power: 15	Back to work. For the record, rear tension rods are NOT strong enough to use as a brace while you break loose the nuts on your axle nuts. But it had already been bent and re-straightened once so it was on the "replace" list regardless. Marking the drive shaft flange orientation Free at last! Oh, what a surprise....Broken front diff mounts are a VERY common problem due largely to the ingenious design which includes relies on the shear strength of a rubber block to combat the pitch and dive of the drive shaft and nose of the diff wanting to go in opposite directions under acceleration /deceleration. Diff was yanked and sent off to be freshened up with new seals and have the wear on the clutch plates inspected. See that cap next to the driver side axle? apparently when I was run off the road it put enough force on the axle to drive it into the cup, displacing enough grease/air to force the cap out of the backside. Since the axle was bolted to the flange it couldn't fall out so it simply allowed axle grease to be flung all over the place.....good to know.

07-09-2012, 01:53 PM	#51
Sharingan 19 Rotary Fanatic Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 138 Rep Power: 15	While they were cleaning up I took the time to clean up and wrap the Racing Beat downpipe I picked up for the low, couldn't wait to get rid of this stock POS. RB DP as delivered Sanded, ceramic painted, wrapped A little silicon spray for good measure

07-09-2012, 01:55 PM	#52
Sharingan 19 Rotary Fanatic Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 138 Rep Power: 15	While I had half the car apart already I decided to remedy the oh so annoying coolant passage o-rings that I'd put off for months: Turbo off LIM off, lets see what we're workin with.... And here is the cause of all this strife.....Classy Better More awfulness Better, not show quality, but no one well ever see this once its together New gasket, new o-rings and enough RTV to ensure I won't be doing this again What I DID have to do though was find some oil meter pump lines, since the ones going to the LIM were broken off during the course of this repair....one more thing on the list.

07-10-2012, 11:19 AM	#54
speedjunkie RCC Loves Me Not You Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Colorado Springs, CO Posts: 2,089 Rep Power: 20	Makes me sick to see a 10AE in the junkyard, especially for that reason. Well I hate to see ANY rotary in the junkyard, but one so rare makes it even worse.

07-17-2012, 06:15 PM	#55
Sharingan 19 Rotary Fanatic Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 138 Rep Power: 15	Since I had to order the OMP lines from somewhere I returned focus to the original problem(s) suspension. Some goodies arrived from MMR: Camber adjustment links for the rear. Since I'm using these I had to retain the stock rear control arm bushings...one less thing to buy. Next to the stock link Delrin rear diff mounts Diff back from the shop, new output shaft seals, new pinion seal, new mazdazpeed front diff mount Everything mocked up getting ready for install Hoisted into its new home

07-17-2012, 06:16 PM	#57
Sharingan 19 Rotary Fanatic Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 138 Rep Power: 15	Since once strut was already blown on the GC/tociko blue setup (and they don't go that low anyway) I was in the market for another suspension solution. I seriously considered keeping the GC's (especially since I got such a deal on them) but by the time I bought a full set of struts, and camber plates or RB lowering strut mounts I would have been way over budget. Fortunately I found another great deal on a set of brand new coilovers. Apparently they were a gift from someone's GF who mistakenly got FC coils for an FD, but before they could be returned, the relationship went sour (perhaps because of...?). I sold the GC setup and was only out of pocket a a couple hundred bucks. K-Sport Control Pros 8kg/6kg I know the Control Pro's are pretty basic, but they are better than stockish struts and they provide camber adjustment. When my driving ability and the rest of the car exceed their capability they will be replaced, but until then I couldn't be happier Front Rear

07-17-2012, 06:18 PM	#59
Sharingan 19 Rotary Fanatic Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 138 Rep Power: 15	Riding around like this (open downpipe) got load pretty quick.....and pretty annoying a little while after that. Enter another amazing deal, a buddy of mine sold his T2 but kept the RB exhaust because the buyer couldn't afford both. He packed it up and stored it but never actively tried to sell it. Fast forward a few years.....I happen to mention I'm in the market and he "thinks he may have a turbo-back FC exhaust he'll sell me for $250"....ok. Well turns out he lost the midpipe so I got it for $200....even better! Of course not having a mid-pipe did present a small problem, but nothing that couldn't be solved with this. Borla XR-1 3in inlet 3in outlet . As I don't weld it was off to the local muffler shop to bring it all together Stock turbo outlet --> 3" downpipe --> 3" Borla XR-1 --> Ypipe --> Dual 2.5" Racing Beat cannisters Actually turned out to be a bit more quiet than I was expecting/hoping for...oh well stealth status.

07-17-2012, 06:21 PM	#60
Sharingan 19 Rotary Fanatic Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 138 Rep Power: 15	Once the exhaust was squared away it was time to turn to the intake. The stock turbo inlet duct was full of cracks and beyond repair so I picked up the Corksport aluminum TID. Pretty well made piece. My only gripe was that they didn't have any black couplers at the time that I orded so i ended up with red...oh well.