flooding out FC3S4 N/A

[Red Dragon]

lol, I "think" there is suppose to be an RX-7 badge on the rear. Mine's was missing when I bought it.

[Shadow24v]

Well, tried to start the 7 again and had NO spark. Leading coil checked out but the trailing coils had good primary resistance and i could not get ANY reading from the secondary to ground. It seems like the trailing coils are shot and im not sure why im not getting any spark at all. It may just be a weak charge on the battery but any advice would be appreciated

[NoDOHC]

You should charge the battery before you try to start the car.

I am sure that you tried adding two-stroke oil to each rotor, but I thought I would ask.

Even with a terrible tune (3-bar MAP tune, 1 bar MAP) my '86 started just fine for the initial start on the Haltech.

If it ever wouldn't start, oil was the answer (although it did pulse to 100+ psi on all faces - without any oil).

(The tune is better now and oil is no longer necessary).

You could also try starting the car with the accelerator pedal floored (after clearing the flood and adding oil). If you can get it running, keep it running for a while, maybe it just needs to be run.

If it is the FPR, you should be able to install a gauge in the line from the primary injectors to the secondary injectors and verify that.

edit: You really should try pull-starting it too.

[Shadow24v]

Originally Posted by NoDOHC

You should charge the battery before you try to start the car.

I am sure that you tried adding two-stroke oil to each rotor, but I thought I would ask.

Even with a terrible tune (3-bar MAP tune, 1 bar MAP) my '86 started just fine for the initial start on the Haltech.

If it ever wouldn't start, oil was the answer (although it did pulse to 100+ psi on all faces - without any oil).

(The tune is better now and oil is no longer necessary).

You could also try starting the car with the accelerator pedal floored (after clearing the flood and adding oil). If you can get it running, keep it running for a while, maybe it just needs to be run.

If it is the FPR, you should be able to install a gauge in the line from the primary injectors to the secondary injectors and verify that.

edit: You really should try pull-starting it too.

Its a brand new battery but i will throw the charger on it before trying again

Haven't tried the 2-stroke oil thing, where would you put that anyways? intake or in through the spark plug holes?

the S4 didn't have a flood clear so whats the reasoning behind the full throttle starting?

Also, does anyone know what the secondary coil resistance SHOULD be? and can i run 2 blaster 2 coils in lace of the stock ones? (i REALLY don't want to pay the stupid high prices for stock coils vs the less expensive aftermarket coils) As far as i can tell the Blaster 2's would be fine, the primary resistance is within the OEM spec (blaster 2 - .700 ohms, spec is .2-1.0 ohms)

[NoDOHC]

You can get the coils for CHEAP on eBay or on here.

I am sure that someone has a spare set that they are willing to part with.

The 2-stroke oil goes in the spark plug holes after you have pulled the EGI fuse and removed the spark plugs and cranked the engine for 30-60 seconds with the gas on the floor. (I used a small hose to add the oil.) The plugs can then be replaced. This should get your engine running.

Flooring the gas will minimize the problems due to vacuum leaks and injector leaks and may give the engine a change to get to a good 3000ish rpm before all the starting aid oil is gone.

edit: Be careful to look at required dwell time on aftermarket coils. Rotaries have a tendancy to saturate inexpensive aftermarket coils at higher revs.

[Shadow24v]

ahh ok, i did find a set of trailings on ebay for $49 shipped...(kinda wanted them NOW though lol) going to see if the junkyard here has the FC body for the motor they listed and maybe i can snag some trailing coils there...

thanks for the clarification on the oil and flooring it. it makes sense now

[Shadow24v]

well, i fiddled with the 7 today a fair bit. picked up a trailing coil set and some misc parts for $50 at a J-yard (had 2 89+ GXLs). pulled the plugs, pulled the car in gear to de-flood the motor and actually got it to start while flooring it, it was running like crap though, still seemed to be drowning out. once i let it stall out after 30-50 seconds, i couldn't get it to start at all and the plugs were constantly wet with fuel.

picked up 6 qts castrol GTX 20w50 and an oil filter and ordered plug wires, plugs and a fuel filter as well. going to do a coolant drain flush and fill as well.

Decided to drain the tank and got about 7 gallons of varnished fuel out of the car. I think the varnished fuel has gunked up the primary injectors causing it to flood but i don't know if the intermediate intake gasket is reusable. the parts place list the "intake manifold" gasket at $50+ and 2 "plenum" gaskets around $9-$11. Also i forgot to ask about a pulsation damper.

I tried replacing the worn out shifter with one i got from the 89+ but i still have vertical play in the shifter and the motion isn't great, and its picky about going into reverse. Im thinking about getting an ebay short shifter with all new hardware to see if that fixes the issue (can't afford a mazdatrix one)

I also re-did the battery connections and bled the clutch system as it was dry. i still feel like there should be more travel for the clutch but i think that is going to be found in adjusting the clutch pedal.

If there is any other advice, im open to anything about now. One good thing is i dont have any dead faces as i got "pissh"s from all rotor faces when i was de-flooding the motor.

[TehMonkay]

Check voltage to leading coil, should be same as battery voltage.

If that checks out and you're still not getting spark on leading i'd try changing out the leading coil, the trailing won't affect the ability to start too much.

I'd definately clean the injectors though. If you have varnish in the tank though i'd drop the tank, clean it out really well with brake cleaner, change out the fuel sock on the pump before chaning it out and flush the lines out with some alcohol before putting everything back together. My T2 has the same issue.

[NoDOHC]

You may have a serious vacuum leak.

My '86 was exactly like that when I got it, the vacuum line to the brake booster was MIA.

If the car runs when flat on the floor and not under any other circumstances, it is likely to be either the TPS, MAP, or a vacuum leak.

I guess I could see the vacuum line to the FPR missing or improperly connected.

Does the car still have all the emissions intact?

I think that a fuel pressure gauge would do you a lot of good (determine if your FPR is bad or malconnected or you have a plugged return line.

I have known people to try the ingenious plan of crimping off the return line to get more power (some old truckers used to do that with reasonable success on ancient diesel engines). It doesn't work with a gasonline engine. Infact to get more power out of a stock rotary, you need LESS fuel.

[Shadow24v]

well, for one i saw that the hose connecting the primary fuel rail to the secondary has a nasty kink in it. That might be causing the issue.

As for the varnished fuel, is it that hard to drop the tank? it looked like 2 straps and it'd come right down.

AFAIK it has all the emissions stuff still attached, its a relatively untouched rx-7

Wile i can't spot any missing vacuum lines it doesn't mean that some of them might be bad.

the leading coils checked out and it DID run, the issue i believe is in the fueling side.

I have a set of known good injectors, the secondaries were swapped by the seller but not the primaries. I want to swap them after seeing the fuel i pulled out, but i don't know what gasket to get to replace the one between both upper and lower intakes

[Rx-7fetish]

Originally Posted by Shadow24v

I want to swap them after seeing the fuel i pulled out, but i don't know what gasket to get to replace the one between both upper and lower intakes

http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...m=13-112A-N326

Its this one

[Shadow24v]

^ -- thanks i was able to order one from NAPA for now although i don't know if ill need it anymore

I did a lot today, oil change - the old oil, if you can call it that, was almost more fuel than oil. had a heck of a time getting the old filter off, had to drive a screwdriver through it about 5 times and use it as a lever to finally break it loose. also put in a new fuel filter, new leading plugs and new plug wires and the j-yard trailing coils i got yesterday. re-did the battery terminal connections on the wiring harness.

still can't find the clutch system leak though, slave cylinder and hose to the MC are dry as a bone and it doesn't LOOK like the MC is leaking but that's about the last thing to look at and replace. lifetime remaned for $79 from oreillys possibly. you get about 6-7 clutches before the reservoir is empty again.

i DID drive it around the block though after the oil change and all that and adding a gallon of 89, i said "well if it floods ill be swapping injectors but if it runs, GREAT!" and on about the 3rd crank (starter seems weak or strong depending on a whim, i wonder if its wearing out as it also gets stuck sometimes) it started to pop and then caught. revved up to 3K and slowly idled down to around 1000ish before i turned it off after i set the smoke detector off i pulled it out of the garage and started it up again and drove around the block taking it to 7000 about 3 times or so, but it was smoking blue smoke like a SOB, i hope its just cleaning itself out and will clean up in time but.... i parked it after one lap and getting the coolant temp about halfway up the gauge as it was beeping at me (i think it was a low fuel warning as only that and the rear hatch idiot lights were on. the rear hatch needs adjusting to latch one side and trip the sensor i think)

Any idea why it would smoke like it is? bad oil seals? over-filled oil? (i put 5 qts in...) or something else? it seemed real smooth except for some popping on de-accel and a lumpy low idle around 500 or less after warming up. pulled pretty good too

[Rx-7fetish]

Originally Posted by Shadow24v

I did a lot today, oil change - the old oil, if you can call it that, was almost more fuel than oil.

Wait, you had fuel in your oil?

Originally Posted by Shadow24v

still can't find the clutch system leak though, slave cylinder and hose to the MC are dry as a bone and it doesn't LOOK like the MC is leaking but that's about the last thing to look at and replace. lifetime remaned for $79 from oreillys possibly. you get about 6-7 clutches before the reservoir is empty again.

Reach up inside your car were the master cylinder bolts to the car, mine was leaking past the plunger.

Originally Posted by Shadow24v

i pulled it out of the garage and started it up again and drove around the block taking it to 7000 about 3 times or so, but it was smoking blue smoke like a SOB, i hope its just cleaning itself out and will clean up in time but.... i parked it after one lap and getting the coolant temp about halfway up the gauge as it was beeping at me (i think it was a low fuel warning as only that and the rear hatch idiot lights were on. the rear hatch needs adjusting to latch one side and trip the sensor i think)

You did let it warm up before you took it to 7 grand right? If you didnt that was a bad move..... The beeping could have been anything, i dont get a beep when my fuel light is on, the beeping is kind of like a check engine light for an s4, the pattern of the beeps lets you know whats wrong. Check the other forum in one of icemarks stickies for what each pattern means

Originally Posted by Shadow24v

Any idea why it would smoke like it is? bad oil seals? over-filled oil? (i put 5 qts in...) or something else? it seemed real smooth except for some popping on de-accel and a lumpy low idle around 500 or less after warming up. pulled pretty good too

Idle should be around 750 i believe, below 500 is definitely to low. Did you everr inject any oil into a spark plug hole to try to build compression? or did the previous owner try this, the may have used to much, that would explain a lot of smoke. How long is your block because if they didnt thats a very bad sign. If your block is short you may not have driven it long enough to notice any overheating of the engine.

Glad you got it running though, it feels good to make something work, even if its not perfect lol

[Whizbang]

whats your exhaust system structure? Stock manifold? Any cats? If you had some longer term flooding issues, fuel will get soaked into those areas and take a while to burn out.

[Whizbang]

Originally Posted by Rx-7fetish

Wait, you had fuel in your oil?

typical with flooding cars.