Car 345, rx7 rally car. - Page 3

Whizbang · 07-22-2011, 08:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by speedjunkie

That sucks Alex. I hope it get it going again soon. That way you can have more fun before winter sets in at least.

I actually had a dream about this car last week. I don't know if you were driving or not, but it was in a race and destroying everything else on the course, passing every other car up a hill and then jumping the hill haha. Weird.

im deploying in october, so i wont be driving til after im back im certain. That said i aquired the bellhousing from a B2200 which will allow the rx7, miata transmission i have to attach. directly to the FE3. Gotta love M type interchangablity...

Hopefully ill be driving to portland this weekend coming up to grab the engine. Then i can engineer!

speedjunkie · 07-24-2011, 03:10 AM

Yeah I'm deploying soon too. Where are you going? Send me a text.

Whizbang · 07-26-2011, 09:33 AM

car is now in the garage and being taken apart. I have the FC subframe with the correct hubs, but no calipers. Going back to the pull a part for some FC parts i spied. For the time being, i am maintaining the smaller 4x114.3 back brakes to not only clear the wheels i have (FC 4 pistons are like subarus, some 15" wheels dont fit) and because i have a 4x114.3 rear. Not having different lug patterns for obvious reasons.

also, i am using the GSLSE rear axles and brakes i have. Nice 4x114.3 lug pattern (regular rx7 is 4x110) and uses vented rear rotors. So essentially, i have most of what i need. At this point just a matter of the engine. Seems as thought the 1.8 BP motor is going to be the way im going. The FE3 isn't panning out too well (granted i found the right bellhousing in my garage...) but im not driving that far for it, in addition to the added work of making...well work. Plus the miata was designed for high lateral G oiling and is dimensionally superior.

So of the other parts will be taken off the "rallyx7" project. Mostly because i wasnt able to get a title and there are cleaner cars out there. I might even take the good non sunroof of it to replace my current bondo leak fest roof.

Whizbang · 07-29-2011, 09:46 AM

will i am trying to get some pictures up, i did find some information on my old engine so i can compare for myself (butt dyno). Anywho, the 12a, streetport with the 48 IDA made just about 130 wheel horsepower. This was with large amounts of dyno time as well from what i was told. Car ran pretty good with 130whp. I attribute that to 4.88 gears. But at anyrate, the miata BP will do that or more with not too much difficulty.

t_g_farrell · 07-29-2011, 11:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gravity Fed

will i am trying to get some pictures up, i did find some information on my old engine so i can compare for myself (butt dyno). Anywho, the 12a, streetport with the 48 IDA made just about 130 wheel horsepower. This was with large amounts of dyno time as well from what i was told. Car ran pretty good with 130whp. I attribute that to 4.88 gears. But at anyrate, the miata BP will do that or more with not too much difficulty.

A SP with an IDA and it only put down 130 to the wheels. It wasn't running
well at all IMHO. My stock port does 134 with the mods in my sig. I would
expect a SP to put down at least 10 or 20 more, like ~150 to the wheels.
And I know dynos vary and so on but really that doesn't seem as good if
there were large amounts of dyno time spent on it.

Shame your not sticking with the rotary but I understand the motivation.
Good luck with the build!

Whizbang · 07-30-2011, 12:46 AM

perhaps sometime on a future car (im certain to stay with mazda, very good program for motorsports they have) and i might build myself another rotary. just not in the financial cards...

more progress today and last night. Due to the GSLSE axles being big spline, i had to change out my rear end entirely. Car had the small spline... At anyrate, i put it my reinforced GSLSE axle housing. Once i replace the out bearings for the axles, those and the brakes will be on as well.

Additionally, i have been working on the rear fender wheels. A combination of rust (oregon car) and wanting increase clearance lead me to cutting and grinding. I have done this same ordeal to three FBs now and am getting rather good at it. That said, rust makes thing harder. Rust repairs that have been done previously make it harder still. The pictures below are the rough in. trying to get the wheel well flush . Once i get the welding gas tank refilled i can start welding.

Whizbang · 07-31-2011, 11:20 PM

Whizbang · 07-31-2011, 11:21 PM

The remaining portions of the steering was removed today including the steering box and column. The stud that will hit the new subframe were removed and the frame pinch rails notched for clearances. The new steering column was pulled from the parts car as well. Was some progress. Hot as hell today too. Welding tank is getting refilled tomorrow so i can start the finishing the rear flares and the rear subframe studs.

Whizbang · 08-14-2011, 01:37 AM

so now comes the question of "how do i mount this stupid engine." Its seems that frame rail mounts would only work on the passenger side. The Driver's side has the steering in the perfect place to not work. Pics of that are below. I am using the 2" sleeved bushing tube mount (is there a simple word for this??) A friend of mine savvy with machining made me some aluminum inserts to use will mocking the engine and welding. This is so the poly doesn't melt, obviously. Im probably going to build off the sub-frame.

Also, the cam sensor hits the firewall before the front of the oil is clear of the steering rack, to my preference. If i can move the sensor into cutaway into the firewall, then the engine's front can come down since the pan would clear. This would allow me an easy closing hood.

Anyway, here is what im working with...

Whizbang · 08-16-2011, 08:41 PM

flares are done!

Whizbang · 08-23-2011, 10:57 PM

more progress!

Engine bay was stitch welded as was most layers of metal touching it. Painted over that with tractor paint so i could get the fenders on. Seems as though some of the attachment points have been...rusted and had bolts broken off. Reminds me of home (ohio) anyway.... ill have put some screws into it to hold. But they are mostly on.

Also finished the rear structure welding and coated it all with truck bed liner. I just need two more weldable inserts and the rear mudflaps will be on as well. Engine will be going in soon i supposed. 13b engine i had laying around is the game plan. will be cheaper and i can reuse a lot of parts. Also better for me to learn on!

i also saved 10lbs via removal of the headlamps. also cleared some space and removed some wiring and relays.

Fidelity101 · 08-24-2011, 07:45 AM

I haven't been on here in a while, NICE buy my friend! I gotta come chase you around now!

last weekends rallyX

why are you putting in a boinger?

Whizbang · 08-24-2011, 03:41 PM

I'm staying rotary now. I have a 13b for it now

Fidelity101 · 08-25-2011, 11:01 AM

phew, thank god. Woulda had to steal it.

I like the diff cover... alot

Fidelity101 · 10-11-2011, 03:58 PM

http://bringatrailer.com/2010/08/17/...x-7-rally-car/

found this on one of my fav' site

07-26-2011, 09:33 AM	#33
Whizbang Respecognize! Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Δx = ħ/2Δp Posts: 3,190 Rep Power: 21	car is now in the garage and being taken apart. I have the FC subframe with the correct hubs, but no calipers. Going back to the pull a part for some FC parts i spied. For the time being, i am maintaining the smaller 4x114.3 back brakes to not only clear the wheels i have (FC 4 pistons are like subarus, some 15" wheels dont fit) and because i have a 4x114.3 rear. Not having different lug patterns for obvious reasons. also, i am using the GSLSE rear axles and brakes i have. Nice 4x114.3 lug pattern (regular rx7 is 4x110) and uses vented rear rotors. So essentially, i have most of what i need. At this point just a matter of the engine. Seems as thought the 1.8 BP motor is going to be the way im going. The FE3 isn't panning out too well (granted i found the right bellhousing in my garage...) but im not driving that far for it, in addition to the added work of making...well work. Plus the miata was designed for high lateral G oiling and is dimensionally superior. So of the other parts will be taken off the "rallyx7" project. Mostly because i wasnt able to get a title and there are cleaner cars out there. I might even take the good non sunroof of it to replace my current bondo leak fest roof. __________________ For current updates and event coverage check out Follow on Twitter! @WhizbangRally Whizbang Rally's Webpage \| Facebook Last edited by Whizbang; 07-26-2011 at 09:36 AM.

07-29-2011, 09:46 AM	#34
Whizbang Respecognize! Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Δx = ħ/2Δp Posts: 3,190 Rep Power: 21	will i am trying to get some pictures up, i did find some information on my old engine so i can compare for myself (butt dyno). Anywho, the 12a, streetport with the 48 IDA made just about 130 wheel horsepower. This was with large amounts of dyno time as well from what i was told. Car ran pretty good with 130whp. I attribute that to 4.88 gears. But at anyrate, the miata BP will do that or more with not too much difficulty. __________________ For current updates and event coverage check out Follow on Twitter! @WhizbangRally Whizbang Rally's Webpage \| Facebook

07-30-2011, 12:46 AM	#36
Whizbang Respecognize! Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Δx = ħ/2Δp Posts: 3,190 Rep Power: 21	perhaps sometime on a future car (im certain to stay with mazda, very good program for motorsports they have) and i might build myself another rotary. just not in the financial cards... more progress today and last night. Due to the GSLSE axles being big spline, i had to change out my rear end entirely. Car had the small spline... At anyrate, i put it my reinforced GSLSE axle housing. Once i replace the out bearings for the axles, those and the brakes will be on as well. Additionally, i have been working on the rear fender wheels. A combination of rust (oregon car) and wanting increase clearance lead me to cutting and grinding. I have done this same ordeal to three FBs now and am getting rather good at it. That said, rust makes thing harder. Rust repairs that have been done previously make it harder still. The pictures below are the rough in. trying to get the wheel well flush . Once i get the welding gas tank refilled i can start welding. __________________ For current updates and event coverage check out Follow on Twitter! @WhizbangRally Whizbang Rally's Webpage \| Facebook

07-31-2011, 11:20 PM	#37
Whizbang Respecognize! Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Δx = ħ/2Δp Posts: 3,190 Rep Power: 21	__________________ For current updates and event coverage check out Follow on Twitter! @WhizbangRally Whizbang Rally's Webpage \| Facebook

07-31-2011, 11:21 PM	#38
Whizbang Respecognize! Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Δx = ħ/2Δp Posts: 3,190 Rep Power: 21	The remaining portions of the steering was removed today including the steering box and column. The stud that will hit the new subframe were removed and the frame pinch rails notched for clearances. The new steering column was pulled from the parts car as well. Was some progress. Hot as hell today too. Welding tank is getting refilled tomorrow so i can start the finishing the rear flares and the rear subframe studs. __________________ For current updates and event coverage check out Follow on Twitter! @WhizbangRally Whizbang Rally's Webpage \| Facebook

07-24-2011, 03:10 AM	#32
speedjunkie RCC Loves Me Not You Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Colorado Springs, CO Posts: 2,089 Rep Power: 20	Yeah I'm deploying soon too. Where are you going? Send me a text.

08-14-2011, 01:37 AM	#39
Whizbang Respecognize! Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Δx = ħ/2Δp Posts: 3,190 Rep Power: 21	so now comes the question of "how do i mount this stupid engine." Its seems that frame rail mounts would only work on the passenger side. The Driver's side has the steering in the perfect place to not work. Pics of that are below. I am using the 2" sleeved bushing tube mount (is there a simple word for this??) A friend of mine savvy with machining made me some aluminum inserts to use will mocking the engine and welding. This is so the poly doesn't melt, obviously. Im probably going to build off the sub-frame. Also, the cam sensor hits the firewall before the front of the oil is clear of the steering rack, to my preference. If i can move the sensor into cutaway into the firewall, then the engine's front can come down since the pan would clear. This would allow me an easy closing hood. Anyway, here is what im working with... __________________ For current updates and event coverage check out Follow on Twitter! @WhizbangRally Whizbang Rally's Webpage \| Facebook

08-16-2011, 08:41 PM	#40
Whizbang Respecognize! Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Δx = ħ/2Δp Posts: 3,190 Rep Power: 21	flares are done! __________________ For current updates and event coverage check out Follow on Twitter! @WhizbangRally Whizbang Rally's Webpage \| Facebook

08-23-2011, 10:57 PM	#41
Whizbang Respecognize! Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Δx = ħ/2Δp Posts: 3,190 Rep Power: 21	more progress! Engine bay was stitch welded as was most layers of metal touching it. Painted over that with tractor paint so i could get the fenders on. Seems as though some of the attachment points have been...rusted and had bolts broken off. Reminds me of home (ohio) anyway.... ill have put some screws into it to hold. But they are mostly on. Also finished the rear structure welding and coated it all with truck bed liner. I just need two more weldable inserts and the rear mudflaps will be on as well. Engine will be going in soon i supposed. 13b engine i had laying around is the game plan. will be cheaper and i can reuse a lot of parts. Also better for me to learn on! i also saved 10lbs via removal of the headlamps. also cleared some space and removed some wiring and relays. __________________ For current updates and event coverage check out Follow on Twitter! @WhizbangRally Whizbang Rally's Webpage \| Facebook

08-24-2011, 07:45 AM	#42
Fidelity101 Reliable Source Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Michigan/Illinois Posts: 336 Rep Power: 17	I haven't been on here in a while, NICE buy my friend! I gotta come chase you around now! last weekends rallyX why are you putting in a boinger? __________________ My Rx-7 Vids

08-24-2011, 03:41 PM	#43
Whizbang Respecognize! Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Δx = ħ/2Δp Posts: 3,190 Rep Power: 21	I'm staying rotary now. I have a 13b for it now __________________ For current updates and event coverage check out Follow on Twitter! @WhizbangRally Whizbang Rally's Webpage \| Facebook

08-25-2011, 11:01 AM	#44
Fidelity101 Reliable Source Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Michigan/Illinois Posts: 336 Rep Power: 17	phew, thank god. Woulda had to steal it. I like the diff cover... alot __________________ My Rx-7 Vids

10-11-2011, 03:58 PM	#45
Fidelity101 Reliable Source Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Michigan/Illinois Posts: 336 Rep Power: 17	http://bringatrailer.com/2010/08/17/...x-7-rally-car/ found this on one of my fav' site __________________ My Rx-7 Vids