Plain Jane OEM nothing to see here rebuild

JustJeff · 12-07-2010, 04:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GoopyPerformance

Those rotors are still very much usable. If you guage the Clearance between the apex seal slot and apex and would like it tighter we offer a oversize apex seals. Its still categorized as a 2MM seal but .003 thicker to make up for high millage slop or damaged rotor edges.
http://www.goopyperformance.com/
http://wljphotography.com/index.html

I sent it back to the seller, he inspected it and is sending me another. It's a moot point now, but I appreciate the advice.

Replacement rotor should be here in a few days. Replacement housing is already here. I've got it cleaned up and will slap some paint on it tonight or tomorrow. Matter of fact I'll post some pics of the housing.

JustJeff · 12-07-2010, 04:49 PM

I couldn't be happier with this housing. Bought it from 87GTR over on 7club. Considering the shape of the chrome he should have asked for more. But kudos for him for not raping the community for good used JDM parts. He is listing quite a few parts and always seems to keep his prices reasonable.

JustJeff · 12-07-2010, 04:57 PM

Housing does have a couple dings on it. I'm assuming I can file or grind those down without needing to get it machined?

RETed · 12-07-2010, 08:21 PM

Yep, got a lot of those when buying used housings from previous owners dropping them.

Just make sure the bottom (to oil pan) and sides (to irons) surfaces are flat enough so sealant can do it's job.

-Ted

JustJeff · 12-09-2010, 05:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RETed

Yep, got a lot of those when buying used housings from previous owners dropping them.

Just make sure the bottom (to oil pan) and sides (to irons) surfaces are flat enough so sealant can do it's job.

-Ted

Got the dremel out last night and cleaned up the dents and dings. I also cleaned the housing to iron contact surfaces and the housing to oil pan surfaces. Used some 400 grit paper with a sanding block so all the surfaces would be sanded evenly. Did the same thing with my front cover surfaces.

I also decided to polish the logos on both housings. I've never polished before and want some practice. I'm planning to polish the lips on 2 sets of vert rims. Hell if it goes well enough I may even polish my intakes??? I doubt I"ll want to put the work into all that...but you never know.

NoDOHC · 12-09-2010, 06:58 PM

Polishing is fun, but time consuming.

Looking good so far!

RETed · 12-10-2010, 05:03 AM

I tried polishing my UIM myself...
Oh boy, BIG mistake!
It was a royal PITA!

If you can find as shop that does this professionally, I'd recommending just paying them to do it.
Your time is worth more than wasting your time polishing these things. :P

-Ted

JustJeff · 12-15-2010, 05:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RETed

I tried polishing my UIM myself...
Oh boy, BIG mistake!
It was a royal PITA!

If you can find as shop that does this professionally, I'd recommending just paying them to do it.
Your time is worth more than wasting your time polishing these things. :P

-Ted

Yeah I've read its quite horrible and time consuming. I doubt I'll be doing it for many reasons. The other is that it's kinda like making a clean spot in the mud.... everything else will look like shit in comparison. IMHO I think polish should wait till it's the last addition to a fully dressed engine bay.

JustJeff · 12-15-2010, 05:26 PM

Because it's too damn cold out to do anything in the garage!!! I'm doing all the work in a 3 car garage but don't own a heater that will heat that much space. Everytime I have enough time to myself to do more work, it's a damn winter storm warning.

I did receive a replacement rotor and it is dirty as fuck. I believe the seller coats them in oil but doesn't do ANY carbon build up cleaning. I know it's a B weight but don't know if it's S5 turbo or FD. I asked him for FD or S5 turbo, but he was not kind enough to inform me which he sent. Once it's clean I'll weigh it and compare to my C weight..make sure the two will balance.

I've also pieced together an ACT HD street disc kit. Bought a disc that had been mounted but not used. From a different seller I bought a new HD 4 puck kit minus the puck disc. Disc arrived today. PP and bearings won't be for some time.

Matter of fact I offered to try and sell the 4 puck sprung disc for the seller....if anyone is interested.

NoDOHC · 12-15-2010, 11:18 PM

Did you ever try using a little propane radiant heater? I have a 14,000 BTU heater that does a very good job of keeping the engine bay warm, while only costing about $5.00 per evening of use (about $1.00/hour).

I do understand your pain.

I have no excuse, as I have an insulated and heated garage, but it costs too much to heat the whole thing, so I use the little propane heater (it costs about $8/hour to heat the shop).

JustJeff · 12-16-2010, 12:15 AM

^ Normally it doesn't get cold enough in Southern Indiana to need a heater. The garage is attached to the house so it stays relatively warm. There will be one or two winter blasts in a season and that's about it. Unfortunately one of those blasts is now.

JustJeff · 01-04-2011, 11:34 AM

It's gonna be 40 today!!! Think I might lay out...get a tan....:P Seriously though. Family has all left after the Holidays and I have the day off. Gonna see how much I can get done before the Buckeye's game.

Here's the rotor. I got it relatively cleaned.

Bearing is in great shape

All the apex grooves look good

JustJeff · 01-04-2011, 11:39 AM

Here's the polished logos. I got them down to 2000 grit and that's good enough for me. Some of the letter edges are rough but I'm not worried about it. I was really just killing time. Once the engine is in nobody is going to see the logo and after a few miles the polish is going to tarnish.

Gonna touch up the already painted housing, paint the newest housing and paint the front cover.

mazdadude7 · 01-05-2011, 06:05 PM

looking good glad your build is going better than mine.

JustJeff · 01-05-2011, 07:00 PM

Do tell?? What's not going well on yours?

My rebuild hasn't gone all that well. Well the timing for needing it couldn't have come at a worse time. I lost my job in 2009..same time I needed a rebuild. I'm doing better than I was a year ago...but not as well as I was two years ago before all this "economy stuff" happened.

I've had a few setbacks. Needed to replace my turbo..but now I have a core if I want to do a BNR. I needed a refund on a horrible housing some asshat tried to pass off as useable. I needed a replacement on a rotor that a seller didn't know was detonated. He hooked me up nicely.

The rest of my rebuild will either happen quickly or I may simply take my time and wait till it gets a little warmer.

12-09-2010, 06:58 PM	#36
NoDOHC The quest for more torque Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Sheboygan, Wisconsin iTrader: (1) Posts: 855 Rep Power: 17	Polishing is fun, but time consuming. Looking good so far! __________________ 1986 GXL ('87 4-port NA - Haltech E8, LS2 Coils. Defined Autoworks Headers, Dual 2.5" Exhaust (Dual Superflow, dBX mufflers) 1991 Coupe (KYB AGX Shocks, Eibach lowering springs, RB exhaust, Stock and Automatic)

12-15-2010, 11:18 PM	#40
NoDOHC The quest for more torque Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Sheboygan, Wisconsin iTrader: (1) Posts: 855 Rep Power: 17	Did you ever try using a little propane radiant heater? I have a 14,000 BTU heater that does a very good job of keeping the engine bay warm, while only costing about $5.00 per evening of use (about $1.00/hour). I do understand your pain. I have no excuse, as I have an insulated and heated garage, but it costs too much to heat the whole thing, so I use the little propane heater (it costs about $8/hour to heat the shop). __________________ 1986 GXL ('87 4-port NA - Haltech E8, LS2 Coils. Defined Autoworks Headers, Dual 2.5" Exhaust (Dual Superflow, dBX mufflers) 1991 Coupe (KYB AGX Shocks, Eibach lowering springs, RB exhaust, Stock and Automatic)

12-07-2010, 04:49 PM	#32
JustJeff RCC Contributor Join Date: Mar 2008 iTrader: (1) Posts: 505 Rep Power: 17	I couldn't be happier with this housing. Bought it from 87GTR over on 7club. Considering the shape of the chrome he should have asked for more. But kudos for him for not raping the community for good used JDM parts. He is listing quite a few parts and always seems to keep his prices reasonable.

12-07-2010, 04:57 PM	#33
JustJeff RCC Contributor Join Date: Mar 2008 iTrader: (1) Posts: 505 Rep Power: 17	Housing does have a couple dings on it. I'm assuming I can file or grind those down without needing to get it machined?

12-15-2010, 05:26 PM	#39
JustJeff RCC Contributor Join Date: Mar 2008 iTrader: (1) Posts: 505 Rep Power: 17	Because it's too damn cold out to do anything in the garage!!! I'm doing all the work in a 3 car garage but don't own a heater that will heat that much space. Everytime I have enough time to myself to do more work, it's a damn winter storm warning. I did receive a replacement rotor and it is dirty as fuck. I believe the seller coats them in oil but doesn't do ANY carbon build up cleaning. I know it's a B weight but don't know if it's S5 turbo or FD. I asked him for FD or S5 turbo, but he was not kind enough to inform me which he sent. Once it's clean I'll weigh it and compare to my C weight..make sure the two will balance. I've also pieced together an ACT HD street disc kit. Bought a disc that had been mounted but not used. From a different seller I bought a new HD 4 puck kit minus the puck disc. Disc arrived today. PP and bearings won't be for some time. Matter of fact I offered to try and sell the 4 puck sprung disc for the seller....if anyone is interested.

12-16-2010, 12:15 AM	#41
JustJeff RCC Contributor Join Date: Mar 2008 iTrader: (1) Posts: 505 Rep Power: 17	^ Normally it doesn't get cold enough in Southern Indiana to need a heater. The garage is attached to the house so it stays relatively warm. There will be one or two winter blasts in a season and that's about it. Unfortunately one of those blasts is now.

01-04-2011, 11:34 AM	#42
JustJeff RCC Contributor Join Date: Mar 2008 iTrader: (1) Posts: 505 Rep Power: 17	It's gonna be 40 today!!! Think I might lay out...get a tan....:P Seriously though. Family has all left after the Holidays and I have the day off. Gonna see how much I can get done before the Buckeye's game. Here's the rotor. I got it relatively cleaned. Bearing is in great shape All the apex grooves look good

01-04-2011, 11:39 AM	#43
JustJeff RCC Contributor Join Date: Mar 2008 iTrader: (1) Posts: 505 Rep Power: 17	Here's the polished logos. I got them down to 2000 grit and that's good enough for me. Some of the letter edges are rough but I'm not worried about it. I was really just killing time. Once the engine is in nobody is going to see the logo and after a few miles the polish is going to tarnish. Gonna touch up the already painted housing, paint the newest housing and paint the front cover.

01-05-2011, 06:05 PM	#44
mazdadude7 Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Franklin, NC iTrader: (5) Posts: 410 Rep Power: 17	looking good glad your build is going better than mine.

01-05-2011, 07:00 PM	#45
JustJeff RCC Contributor Join Date: Mar 2008 iTrader: (1) Posts: 505 Rep Power: 17	Do tell?? What's not going well on yours? My rebuild hasn't gone all that well. Well the timing for needing it couldn't have come at a worse time. I lost my job in 2009..same time I needed a rebuild. I'm doing better than I was a year ago...but not as well as I was two years ago before all this "economy stuff" happened. I've had a few setbacks. Needed to replace my turbo..but now I have a core if I want to do a BNR. I needed a refund on a horrible housing some asshat tried to pass off as useable. I needed a replacement on a rotor that a seller didn't know was detonated. He hooked me up nicely. The rest of my rebuild will either happen quickly or I may simply take my time and wait till it gets a little warmer.