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Old 04-29-2016, 12:31 PM   #31
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It could be a clutch or throw out bearing.






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Old 04-29-2016, 12:56 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GySgtFrank View Post
get snot slinging drunk.
Indeed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RETed View Post
If it's trans mounts, it'll make a LOT of noise on shifts...
Anything from a thud to a BANG during the shift is your typical sign of failure.

It's uncommon that bad trans mounts induce a shudder during driving though, but this could be a symptom of something else...


-Ted
I was reading up on Mazdatrix about similar symptoms. now that you've said this though i guess ill have to think about something else. Trans mounts should be here in a day or two. I told them a joke in the comments section and they (Himni) upgraded me to 1 day shippings because i made them laugh haha.

Quote:
Originally Posted by t_g_farrell View Post
It could be a clutch or throw out bearing.

I guess thats getting added to the list to then. So even though its happening when I'm off the clutch it could still be either?
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Old 04-29-2016, 01:16 PM   #33
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wiggle the shaft to check for u-joints and backlash



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Old 04-29-2016, 01:40 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitaniumTT View Post
wiggle the shaft to check for u-joints and backlash



giggitty
Wouldn't you rather me wait until you're around for me to wiggle the shaft?
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Old 04-29-2016, 03:05 PM   #35
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PMed with Tracking Info...
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Old 04-29-2016, 03:27 PM   #36
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Thank you Bae! I even included dielectric in the clips..
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Old 04-29-2016, 03:31 PM   #37
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Quote:
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Thank you Bae! I even included dielectric in the clips..
youbetcha!
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Old 04-29-2016, 08:28 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by project86 View Post
I told them a joke in the comments section and they (Himni) upgraded me to 1 day shippings because i made them laugh haha
Ugh.
Their stuff is crap...


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because you're only as good as your backup
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Old 04-29-2016, 08:39 PM   #39
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Quote:
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Ugh.
Their stuff is crap...


-Ted
Well that would have been nice to know. What's to bad about their stuff? Seems like it would be kinda hard to mess up a poly mount.
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Old 05-02-2016, 07:28 AM   #40
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got the trans mounts in the mail, short throw/bushings, inner shift boots and new knob will be here today. I'll probably go ahead and put that in. Now I'm just waiting for the new trans brace to come in and then ill do the mounts and see how everything feels.

Since I've started driving it leaks seem to be getting slightly worse so it looks like ill need to do the oil pan gasket and brace next.
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Old 05-02-2016, 11:27 AM   #41
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Don't bother with the gasket those things are useless. What you do is pull the motor... Drop the oil pan and let the car sit overnight so ALL the oil that's going to leak down... leaks down. Than re-seal said pan with The Right Stuff.... make sure you use the right stuff... and it's actually called, Right Stuff. Make absolutely sure everything is clean and wipe it down with some acetone. Put that shit together and let it cure for at least 24 hours in the warmth before adding oil.
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Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion.
You win with your thread. Most everything
It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact

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Old 05-02-2016, 12:20 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by project86 View Post
Well that would have been nice to know. What's to bad about their stuff? Seems like it would be kinda hard to mess up a poly mount.
If we're talking about comparing it to the stock OEM ISOLATION type mount, then it's garbage...

Remember the old adage?
If it's too good to be true (i.e. cheap), then it is...

The stock type mount (this goes for the engine and trans mounts), are two studs attached to two plates of metal with a rubber sandwich in between them.
This allow both compression and pull forces to be absorbed by the mount itself.
All these cheap-ass vendors who sell this crap built these mounts that can only handle compressor forces; they do not isolate the pull forces, as you're asking against the bolt / fastener.
What does this all mean?
You get increased vibration through this cheap-ass mount...
It could possibly damage something else, as now your mount does not isolate tension forces...

You get an inferior mount, because they are too cheap to build a proper mount...
Anyone can get a block of (insert fav...rubber, polyurethane, nylon, UHMW plastic, aluminum, hockey puck) and drill a hole in it and slap on a nut and bolt...


-Ted
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Old 05-02-2016, 02:30 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RETed View Post
Anyone can get a block of (insert fav...rubber, polyurethane, nylon, UHMW plastic, aluminum, hockey puck) and drill a hole in it and slap on a nut and bolt...


-Ted
Ha Ha, that summed it all up right there in one concise answer!
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Old 05-02-2016, 03:23 PM   #44
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He forgot to add BDC's preferred material for engine mounts...... a block of scrape 2x4 from home cheapot.

You all laugh because you think I'm joking. He actually defended it.
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DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC

DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!!

2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4
2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter
2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins
1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle
1988 'Vert - In progress
1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST!


I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you?
I'm pure Evil
I'm still insane, in the best possible way.
I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube.
Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion.
You win with your thread. Most everything
It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact

Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff....
No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon.
-Angry Motherf*cker Mode ENGAGED-
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Old 05-02-2016, 08:45 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RETed View Post
If we're talking about comparing it to the stock OEM ISOLATION type mount, then it's garbage...

Remember the old adage?
If it's too good to be true (i.e. cheap), then it is...

The stock type mount (this goes for the engine and trans mounts), are two studs attached to two plates of metal with a rubber sandwich in between them.
This allow both compression and pull forces to be absorbed by the mount itself.
All these cheap-ass vendors who sell this crap built these mounts that can only handle compressor forces; they do not isolate the pull forces, as you're asking against the bolt / fastener.
What does this all mean?
You get increased vibration through this cheap-ass mount...
It could possibly damage something else, as now your mount does not isolate tension forces...

You get an inferior mount, because they are too cheap to build a proper mount...
Anyone can get a block of (insert fav...rubber, polyurethane, nylon, UHMW plastic, aluminum, hockey puck) and drill a hole in it and slap on a nut and bolt...


-Ted
Fair enough. I had Banzai poly mounts in my last car. I actually really liked them. I didnt get too much extra vibration from them surprisingly. But they discontinued them. I guess if the Himni version ends up being bad i can always go back to stock or mazdaspeed version. But like i said, i really based the decision to buy more poly mounts off of my last experience with them.

I'll always value your words Ted.

Quote:
Originally Posted by FC Zach View Post
Ha Ha, that summed it all up right there in one concise answer!
I guess you're still running all factory mounts then Zach?

Quote:
Originally Posted by TitaniumTT View Post
He forgot to add BDC's preferred material for engine mounts...... a block of scrape 2x4 from home cheapot.

You all laugh because you think I'm joking. He actually defended it.
Im not laughing.... after all I've read about him I'm not surprised....


On another note.. i just finished the install of my short shifter. Yummy

I forgot how much i liked it. and it feels SOOOOOOO much better than the stock one. although its much stiffer. I guess i just need to drive it an break it in some. Or maybe add some more gear oil to the shifter hole? any suggestions on that?
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