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20B/3 Rotor Conversion.. All things to do with 20B/3 rotor... Post pics, video, tech, etc..


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Old 02-22-2015, 12:23 PM   #31
lt1_fd3s
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GySgtFrank View Post
Quit your whining and get your ass moving. If I can work in this crap out here, then I don't want to hear about how your female parts hurt in NC.
Aye Gunny!






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Old 02-24-2015, 07:44 PM   #32
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Been lurking.
Awesome that your doing this 20b project.
As far as the car goes, leave it multi colored. lol.
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Old 02-24-2015, 11:30 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by n.rotarytech View Post
been lurking.
Awesome that your doing this 20b project.
As far as the car goes, leave it multi colored. Lol.
toby!!!
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Old 03-23-2015, 08:52 AM   #34
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Hey tray......hows the project going, anxious for an update.
Jim T
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Old 03-23-2015, 09:26 AM   #35
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Hey, slacker, is this coming to DGRR? Can it make the climb up the hill to the OGTA cabin?

I'll have cider!
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Old 03-23-2015, 05:22 PM   #36
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i'm waiting to hear back about when i can order some different motor mounts... and debating if/when i want to go talk to the paint and body guy about color changing the engine bay before i drop the engine in...
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Old 04-04-2015, 08:56 AM   #37
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just a small update... I did a little test fitting of the engine + trans with the mounts and oil pan...
  • Mounts: Defined Auto brackets + 2.6" Xcessive Poly lower mounts
  • Xcessive 20B oil pan kit
I'm not comfortable with the angle of the engine + trans and the oil pan rests on the steering rack. The back of the trans is about 1'' or more lower than stock (estimate is based on trying to mount the Banzai Trans brace). Also, with the height of the engine, my front strut bar doesn't clear my #1 trumpet, but the trumpet does clear under the hood about the thickness of my index finger. So now i'm considering my options to allow me to tilt the engine more, lowering the front while raising the back of the trans... yes, i'm toying with the idea of a dry sump system...

I've since pulled it all back out and stripped down the bay as much as I can in prep for getting it painted.



5 pics added to the album
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Old 04-04-2015, 02:41 PM   #38
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Anxious to see it painted....what color have you decided on?
Engine looks awesome.
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Old 04-04-2015, 05:53 PM   #39
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I've settled on the "Spirit R Grey" aka Titanium Grey Metallic (Paint Code: 25G)

and after discussion options today with my brother, we have a few ideas about oil pan hitting the steering rack issue... ideas that don't cost $4500... and if we get one of those to work out, then yeah... i can pick up some other goodies i had to delay on.. heehee...
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Old 07-03-2015, 08:22 PM   #40
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WELL.....how is the project going? Hope you are not as far behind as I am.
Jim T
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Old 07-08-2015, 07:11 AM   #41
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hit a few delays... but hopefully will be back to this project soon...
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Old 08-01-2015, 12:45 AM   #42
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Cliff notes:
New Super Pro bushings front and rear (ordered from J-Auto, who is a GREAT guy to buy from!!!)
New OEM Pillow balls (also ordered from Juan at J-Auto)
J-Auto Trailing arms and toe links
Suspension back on the car with the 4.3 diff installed as well... (hopefully by the end of the weekend)

well, after some delays and life happening...

i didn't originally plan to do this in the build but after checking out the suspension and swapping the '94/'95 subframe that was on my shell into my other FD, I ended up deciding to do new bushings all around, including the pillow balls.

The diff already had super pro bushings, which i only realized after i had ordered my first set from J-Auto (1st set was for my v8 fd). So about 2 wks after that order, I ordered another set of super pro's from Juan, along with his new rear trailing arms and toe links. And from my misreading his website the first time I ordered parts, I ended up with a set of OEM pillow balls w/ new dust covers.

Today I got all the old bushings pressed out and tomorrow I plan to install all the new ones and see about getting the suspension back on the car along with the 4.3 diff installed.

With this out of the way, i can motivate myself to clean and paint my depowered steering rack, re-assemble it and get back to test fitting the engine again, this time with the OEM oil pan.

Side note: I have a Xcessive 20B oil pan on the car right now but with the defined auto motor mounts, the front "hump" of the oil pan rests on the steering rack, raising the front of the engine and made it impossible to get the back of the transmission high enough to bolt in my banzai transmission mount as well as greatly effected the angle of the driveshaft.
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Old 08-02-2015, 04:24 PM   #43
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sledge hammer?
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Old 08-03-2015, 08:20 AM   #44
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i would rather try to justify the cost of a dry sump setup... and the metal of the Xcessive pan is pretty steady, i did consider cutting and rewelding it, but just swapping oil pans is considerably less work
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Old 08-03-2015, 09:26 AM   #45
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doesnt defined auto make a oilpan that clears? or too pricey?
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