My ongoing project car

[RETed]

You can sometimes tell on subtle wear on the rotor gear and apex seal groove area.
The rotor spins only one way, so those areas wear a certain way.

If you never brushed off the carbon, it's more obvious from the carbon patches.
This is true of the side seal area by the tips, cause of reversion going in and out of the intake ports.


-Ted

[N.RotaryTech]

Everything's fairly clean and ready to go back together.

[N.RotaryTech]

So I want to go with the S4 manifolds.
I took em apart and cleaned them this afternoon.
This is what I found inside.







This is a manifold that was in my gray rx7, I only drove it around for 10 miles.
The car had been sitting in a junk yard for 3 years before I got it.

It freaks me out that I dove it with the manifolds in that condition.

[rotarycrazy]

to get all of that stuff out go and get some gasket remover form advance it comes in a spray can make sure you wear some gloves using it shit burns like hell but takes all that carbon out of there.

[N.RotaryTech]

So after weeks of not touching the engine because of Christmas vaca and then a week of being sick, I finally got back to it this week.

Engine is all back together and actually sitting in the engine bay.

Whats next is a whole bunch of little things I've got to get together.

Not much pictures taken yet. Seems Im more concerned with it going back together around this time of the rebuild process. But ill try to get some.

[N.RotaryTech]

So the engine is all back together with manifolds and such. Just need to charge the battery.
It should be running by the end of today.
Some pix of some things I did coming soon.

[N.RotaryTech]

Alright. Some pictures.

Engine bay as it is for now.

Old Miata batt on the charger.
In front of that, power steering lines simply joined together.
Around the same area, Oil temp cable loosely in engine bay.
Near fire wall, a clear hose going from the BAC valve to the intake pipe. (Might redo that sometime.)
Next to the air filter, the S5 OMP set aside but still hooked up to its wires so it don't throw a code. Using a S4 OMP instead.

Secondary throttle plates removed.


The new oil filter pedestal I won at DGRR'09.


Oil temp cable and where it leads to.


Gauges I bought from advanced auto parts years ago, with light switch.

[N.RotaryTech]

So its basically an S4 na engine with street ported S5 end irons and S5 throttle body in a S5 RX7.

Nothing really special in the motor, just FD corner seal springs, and the apex seals are RA classics. That besides the porting in which I added chamfer edges to all the ports.

[N.RotaryTech]

It Lives!!
Got it running around noon.

I have a few bugs to work out.
Like the oil pressure line leaks at both ends.
A coolant hose on the TB was leaking, its now fixed.
I redid the clear hose for the BAC with better hoses.

I installed a new lawn mower battery.

I need to run wires for the volt gauge.
Need to install the charger/cigarette lighter.
Need to relocate & install air/fuel ratio gauge.
And the list goes on.

[N.RotaryTech]

Originally Posted by N.RotaryTech

Like the oil pressure line leaks at both ends.
I need to run wires for the volt gauge.
Need to install the charger/cigarette lighter.

Fixed.
Done.
& Done.

[NoDOHC]

Cool! it looks like it might be warmer in SC than it is here. I can't seem to convince my legs to walk to the garage. (It's too cold in there to finish a wire loom).

It's looking good, will you be able to take it for a spin soon?

[N.RotaryTech]

Yep, soon.

Look what I made.
A small electric distribution piece with a fuel-cut switch on the side.






This is the piece that is located right under the steering column.

I'm going to use this to power some of my extra gauges.

[N.RotaryTech]

So its pretty much all back together.
I'm going to take it for a spin this afternoon.


There is a few issues I'm having.

I've got to replace the clutch hydraulic hose, its leaking.

The mechanical oil pressure line is still leaking at the connections after I put epoxy where the line comes out, I also sealed up the threads of the connections, all that and both ends are dripping, slowly though.

Not sure what else to do about this. When I made the connections I flared out the ends of the plastic line with a tip of a pen actually. Then, on the line connection going to the guage I put sealing tape on the threads On the other end I put RTV on the threads. Then I put epoxy on the holes where the line comes out.


Ive also have yet to figure out what to do about the resistors I put inline with the secondary injector wiring when I did the bridge-port.
I took out the 550's I had in there for the bridge-port, and put back the originals for this motor.
I think I'm going to see where I'm at with A/F ratio, then decide if they need to be taken out. I might be able to run it a little leaner than factory.

[N.RotaryTech]

So I've put 18 miles on it.
It was running too lean up top, in the 15s.
So I took the resistors out, now the afrs are good, but really rich around 7k rpms.

Ive also found out that my heater core has been leaking, the carpet on both sides of the tranny tunnel are wet/damp with coolant.

It drives real smooth, though I feel its a little less powerful than the HBP motor.

[NoDOHC]

What do you consider good for AFR?

You should be shooting for 13.0 to 13.5:1 on Gasoline. If you run much rich of that, you are wasting fuel and leaving power on the table.

What are you running for ignition timing?

You should not need 550 cc/min injectors. If you do, you either have a fuel pressure problem, have hit on some amazing porting that flows exceptionally well, or are running excessively rich.

I was at 63% Duty Cycle with 216 WHp on 460 cc/min injectors. Unless you are making 250+ WHp, the 460cc/min are plenty.

Lets get a feeling for torque, if you floor the throttle in first gear with the engine at 2500-3000 RPM - will the tires spin? If you floor it at 7,000 RPM, will the tires spin? Where does it feel like it pulls the hardest? My 6-port made peak torque about 7500 rpm. If you are running excessively rich there, you are probably killing your sweet spot.

I would expect that engine to be capable of spinning all season 205/60 R15s on a throttle transition between 6,000 RPM and 7,500 RPM.

Ignition Timing should be around 30 degrees BTDC Above 3,500 RPM.