Max's Turbo II - Page 2

NoDOHC · 11-04-2009, 11:01 PM

I think I have an '87 alternator that you could have cheap (not that they aren't all over eBay anyway).

I got it from a friend for my '86, then i discovered that my voltage issues were from the AAS. I don't know the condition personally, but I doubt that it is hurt - he said it was fine.

It really is amazing what will make vibration. I had a mud wasp nest on the inside of my harmonic balancer once that made the engine in my mud truck vibrate terribly (360 Small block Dodge).

Max777 · 11-09-2009, 01:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NoDOHC

I think I have an '87 alternator that you could have cheap (not that they aren't all over eBay anyway).

I got it from a friend for my '86, then i discovered that my voltage issues were from the AAS. I don't know the condition personally, but I doubt that it is hurt - he said it was fine.

It really is amazing what will make vibration. I had a mud wasp nest on the inside of my harmonic balancer once that made the engine in my mud truck vibrate terribly (360 Small block Dodge).

How much shipped to

residential address, 61801, Champaign, IL?

Max777 · 11-16-2009, 03:31 AM

ok, so i figured out my heater issue, i swapped logicons and it all worked fine, another easy fix, but i cut the shit out of my thumb in the process.

I got some (now outdated since I swapped in the s5 surround) pictures of the car, here it is:

Whizbang · 11-29-2009, 04:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phoenix7

welcome to teh boosted world....I doubt you'll ever go back to NA.

i dont fully agree with that having gone back to NA, lol

***TitaniumTT*** · 11-29-2009, 05:20 PM

I'll never go back to n/a..... unless I add an extra rotor ... or two

Nice build thus far, looks pretty thorough. Take it from me though... don't half build things. Meaning, don't drive the car with the exhaust only half done 'cuz it'll never get fully done. Put her in the shop and don't drive her until it's 100%. You'll be amazed at how fast that motivates someone to dominate a PJ

Max777 · 12-04-2009, 07:08 PM

Well, I just sold my vert!

I ended up trading the guy for these parts:

S5 turbo (ported)
RTEK 1.7 ECU
RC 750cc injectors
Greddy Type RS blow off valve

Then, I ordered some modded steering knuckles from DCWFC3S on the evil forum. These give way more angle when you turn. The benefits are better maneuverability in tight spaces like parking lots, and the ability to countersteer further before spinning out. The FC has a very low angle of steering at full lock, so if you go sideways, you can easily spin out. With these, I can drift all day long and not have to worry about hitting full lock.

Here's a pic:

And I just recieved some stuff from Mazdatrix as well:

Rear transmission cross member (broken center bushing was causing high rpm vibrations)
Exedy Stage 1 Street clutch kit (Clutch disk, pressure plate, Throwout bearing, pilot bearing, etc)
Rear main seal
Transmission driveshaft seal
Turbo transmission pan seal
Speedometer gear oring
Spedometer gear seal
OMP o-ring
New intake gaskets
transmission shifter centering spring
MAP sensor restrictor pill (removed emissions)

All these parts ended up totalling me $180, plus $80 for the clutch kit, and on top of that, the OMP oring and rear main seal didn't even get here with my order, had to call M.T. and get them shipped overnight delivery, lol.

Pics of the goodies to come soon!

need RX7 · 12-04-2009, 07:31 PM

Nice!

Looks like a clean car. I like how you're tying up all the loose ends too (leaky gaskets, etc). Nothing's more annoying than a car that leaks every fluid all over the place

Good job so far.

Max777 · 12-04-2009, 07:39 PM

/\ no shit, right? The lower end of my engine, crossmember, and bottom of the transmission looked like they sat in an oil field/ swap for a few years, haha!

I should have put new lines and an o-ring on the OMP the first time I had the intake off but I didn't feel like it. Now that I got a new clutch, I decided to do shit proper.

Max777 · 12-05-2009, 02:34 AM

pics of all the goodies:

750cc RC Injectors:

Some mild porting done on the S5 Turbo:

MaczPayne · 12-05-2009, 07:14 PM

Gotta port it more, might as well get it as big as you can so you don't have to pull it out again. That's precisely what happened to me.

djmtsu · 12-05-2009, 07:16 PM

Yeah man, port that shiat more. Mine is all the way out to the the edge of the flapper. No boost creep for me!!

Max777 · 12-05-2009, 09:01 PM

Hey guys, just FYI i didn't do the porting myself, it has been done before I recived the turbo.

There are a few things i dont like about it, first, it has some cracks in it, second, two bolts on it are snapped. As far as porting this one bigger, I would need to figure out a way to make sure that the valves that close off the ports do not move too much, right now they are very "sloppy" when they are over the holes.

I am going to pull the transmission next weekend, my friend is letting me work in his heated garage, which is super mega awesome.

As far as the charging harness, I pulled mine out, and de-loomed it. I found a few things like corrosion and stuff, but overall, I dont see any significant problems with the wiring.

Max777 · 12-15-2009, 05:53 PM

I have been looking at the BNR turbo rebuilds the other day, and seeing as my S5 turbo is in bad shape, I think that I will invest some money into getting it rebuilt before I install it.

Max777 · 01-14-2010, 01:33 AM

Well, it is now officially 2010, and a new year brings new mods!

I got a Walbro 255lph pump, then went to install it, only to find out that my fuel tank has a bout a 2cm layer of varnish crud on the bottom of it. I got the tank boiled and sealed up with an epoxy liner. I also discovered that the reason my fuel gauge does not work is simply because I do not have a fuel level sender installed on the FP mount.

Pics:

Showing the Tank, and the transmissions I have: Turbo II on the right, N/A on the left.

I know it still looks like there is shit in there but it would not come out no matter what, so it got sealed in under the liner.

I also had a new clutch laying around, and I just bought all sorts of seals and gaskets, shifter return spring, pilot bearing, etc. I decided to finally tackle the project, and managed to remove the transmission from the car in about 1.5 hours once it was all jacked up and ready to go.

I replaced the clutch, resurfaced the flywheel, replaced pilot bearing, rear main seal, throwout bearing, rear transmission seal, transmission pan gasket, shifter return spring. I ended up having to take the transmission half way apart in order to get it all sorted out.

Havent gotten the trans back in yet, but otherwise it's all ready. I also got some new Stainless Steel lock washers for the clutch bolts. Really important to replace those. On the last note, as much as mazdatrix says a normal pilot bearing tool is worthless and you need to buy a rotary one, I managed to get the old pilot bearing out with a regular off the wall removal tool, not too hard, just need to know how to use it properly. :P I ALSO managed to remove my flywheel with an electric impact.... yes, electric! Seeing as it's torqued to 300lbs, and the rattle-gun took it off, I am now a firm believer in my christmas present!

Finally replaced my ghetto ass exhaust section with an RB Silencer:

Boost Gauge:

Some modded spindles, and brand new oem Mazda ball joints! @ $50 each, I love the dealership employee discount!

They will be going on when I get a poly bushing kit.

I sold my S4 turbo, and got an S5 unit as part of the exchange for my old vert shell. Here's the differences in the manifolds between the series, the S4 has a flapper twin scroll (deleted) and the S5 mani has a full twin scroll setup.

need RX7 · 01-14-2010, 02:07 AM

Nice

. I'm jealous of all your shiny new parts

.

11-04-2009, 11:01 PM	#16
NoDOHC The quest for more torque Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Sheboygan, Wisconsin Posts: 855 Rep Power: 17	I think I have an '87 alternator that you could have cheap (not that they aren't all over eBay anyway). I got it from a friend for my '86, then i discovered that my voltage issues were from the AAS. I don't know the condition personally, but I doubt that it is hurt - he said it was fine. It really is amazing what will make vibration. I had a mud wasp nest on the inside of my harmonic balancer once that made the engine in my mud truck vibrate terribly (360 Small block Dodge). __________________ 1986 GXL ('87 4-port NA - Haltech E8, LS2 Coils. Defined Autoworks Headers, Dual 2.5" Exhaust (Dual Superflow, dBX mufflers) 1991 Coupe (KYB AGX Shocks, Eibach lowering springs, RB exhaust, Stock and Automatic)

11-16-2009, 03:31 AM	#18
Max777 Pirate Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Central IL Posts: 1,323 Rep Power: 19	ok, so i figured out my heater issue, i swapped logicons and it all worked fine, another easy fix, but i cut the shit out of my thumb in the process. I got some (now outdated since I swapped in the s5 surround) pictures of the car, here it is: __________________ Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated!

11-29-2009, 05:20 PM	#20
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	I'll never go back to n/a..... unless I add an extra rotor ... or two Nice build thus far, looks pretty thorough. Take it from me though... don't half build things. Meaning, don't drive the car with the exhaust only half done 'cuz it'll never get fully done. Put her in the shop and don't drive her until it's 100%. You'll be amazed at how fast that motivates someone to dominate a PJ __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**

12-04-2009, 07:08 PM	#21
Max777 Pirate Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Central IL Posts: 1,323 Rep Power: 19	Well, I just sold my vert! I ended up trading the guy for these parts: S5 turbo (ported) RTEK 1.7 ECU RC 750cc injectors Greddy Type RS blow off valve Then, I ordered some modded steering knuckles from DCWFC3S on the evil forum. These give way more angle when you turn. The benefits are better maneuverability in tight spaces like parking lots, and the ability to countersteer further before spinning out. The FC has a very low angle of steering at full lock, so if you go sideways, you can easily spin out. With these, I can drift all day long and not have to worry about hitting full lock. Here's a pic: And I just recieved some stuff from Mazdatrix as well: Rear transmission cross member (broken center bushing was causing high rpm vibrations) Exedy Stage 1 Street clutch kit (Clutch disk, pressure plate, Throwout bearing, pilot bearing, etc) Rear main seal Transmission driveshaft seal Turbo transmission pan seal Speedometer gear oring Spedometer gear seal OMP o-ring New intake gaskets transmission shifter centering spring MAP sensor restrictor pill (removed emissions) All these parts ended up totalling me $180, plus $80 for the clutch kit, and on top of that, the OMP oring and rear main seal didn't even get here with my order, had to call M.T. and get them shipped overnight delivery, lol. Pics of the goodies to come soon! __________________ Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated! Last edited by Max777; 12-04-2009 at 07:42 PM.

12-04-2009, 07:31 PM	#22
need RX7 Clean S4 Nutswinger Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Sterling Heights, MI Posts: 485 Rep Power: 18	Nice! Looks like a clean car. I like how you're tying up all the loose ends too (leaky gaskets, etc). Nothing's more annoying than a car that leaks every fluid all over the place Good job so far. __________________ -Ted -1986 Mazda RX7 Sport [DD/beater]: engine finally let go at 205k. parts car status. -1986 Mazda RX7 base [resto-mod project]: S5 n/a swap in progress.

12-04-2009, 07:39 PM	#23
Max777 Pirate Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Central IL Posts: 1,323 Rep Power: 19	/\ no shit, right? The lower end of my engine, crossmember, and bottom of the transmission looked like they sat in an oil field/ swap for a few years, haha! I should have put new lines and an o-ring on the OMP the first time I had the intake off but I didn't feel like it. Now that I got a new clutch, I decided to do shit proper. __________________ Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated!

12-05-2009, 02:34 AM	#24
Max777 Pirate Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Central IL Posts: 1,323 Rep Power: 19	pics of all the goodies: 750cc RC Injectors: Some mild porting done on the S5 Turbo: __________________ Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated!

12-05-2009, 07:14 PM	#25
MaczPayne Bah! Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Riverside, SoCal Posts: 442 Rep Power: 18	Gotta port it more, might as well get it as big as you can so you don't have to pull it out again. That's precisely what happened to me. __________________ Johnson TA FC in the works!

12-05-2009, 07:16 PM	#26
djmtsu My minds tellin' me no... Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Murfreesboro, TN Posts: 4,043 Rep Power: 22	Yeah man, port that shiat more. Mine is all the way out to the the edge of the flapper. No boost creep for me!! __________________ 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 2003 Toyota Tundra TRD 2015 Toyota 4Runner SR5

12-05-2009, 09:01 PM	#27
Max777 Pirate Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Central IL Posts: 1,323 Rep Power: 19	Hey guys, just FYI i didn't do the porting myself, it has been done before I recived the turbo. There are a few things i dont like about it, first, it has some cracks in it, second, two bolts on it are snapped. As far as porting this one bigger, I would need to figure out a way to make sure that the valves that close off the ports do not move too much, right now they are very "sloppy" when they are over the holes. I am going to pull the transmission next weekend, my friend is letting me work in his heated garage, which is super mega awesome. As far as the charging harness, I pulled mine out, and de-loomed it. I found a few things like corrosion and stuff, but overall, I dont see any significant problems with the wiring. __________________ Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated! Last edited by Max777; 12-15-2009 at 05:52 PM.

12-15-2009, 05:53 PM	#28
Max777 Pirate Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Central IL Posts: 1,323 Rep Power: 19	I have been looking at the BNR turbo rebuilds the other day, and seeing as my S5 turbo is in bad shape, I think that I will invest some money into getting it rebuilt before I install it. __________________ Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated! Last edited by Max777; 01-14-2010 at 12:47 AM.

01-14-2010, 01:33 AM	#29
Max777 Pirate Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Central IL Posts: 1,323 Rep Power: 19	Well, it is now officially 2010, and a new year brings new mods! I got a Walbro 255lph pump, then went to install it, only to find out that my fuel tank has a bout a 2cm layer of varnish crud on the bottom of it. I got the tank boiled and sealed up with an epoxy liner. I also discovered that the reason my fuel gauge does not work is simply because I do not have a fuel level sender installed on the FP mount. Pics: Showing the Tank, and the transmissions I have: Turbo II on the right, N/A on the left. I know it still looks like there is shit in there but it would not come out no matter what, so it got sealed in under the liner. I also had a new clutch laying around, and I just bought all sorts of seals and gaskets, shifter return spring, pilot bearing, etc. I decided to finally tackle the project, and managed to remove the transmission from the car in about 1.5 hours once it was all jacked up and ready to go. I replaced the clutch, resurfaced the flywheel, replaced pilot bearing, rear main seal, throwout bearing, rear transmission seal, transmission pan gasket, shifter return spring. I ended up having to take the transmission half way apart in order to get it all sorted out. Havent gotten the trans back in yet, but otherwise it's all ready. I also got some new Stainless Steel lock washers for the clutch bolts. Really important to replace those. On the last note, as much as mazdatrix says a normal pilot bearing tool is worthless and you need to buy a rotary one, I managed to get the old pilot bearing out with a regular off the wall removal tool, not too hard, just need to know how to use it properly. :P I ALSO managed to remove my flywheel with an electric impact.... yes, electric! Seeing as it's torqued to 300lbs, and the rattle-gun took it off, I am now a firm believer in my christmas present! Finally replaced my ghetto ass exhaust section with an RB Silencer: Boost Gauge: Some modded spindles, and brand new oem Mazda ball joints! @ $50 each, I love the dealership employee discount! They will be going on when I get a poly bushing kit. I sold my S4 turbo, and got an S5 unit as part of the exchange for my old vert shell. Here's the differences in the manifolds between the series, the S4 has a flapper twin scroll (deleted) and the S5 mani has a full twin scroll setup. __________________ Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated!

01-14-2010, 02:07 AM	#30
need RX7 Clean S4 Nutswinger Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Sterling Heights, MI Posts: 485 Rep Power: 18	Nice . I'm jealous of all your shiny new parts . __________________ -Ted -1986 Mazda RX7 Sport [DD/beater]: engine finally let go at 205k. parts car status. -1986 Mazda RX7 base [resto-mod project]: S5 n/a swap in progress.