81' FB restoration

BigIslandSevens · 08-25-2009, 05:04 PM

^ Thanks man, I enjoy seeing your metal work skills as well. And the time involved. It is never appreciated. The orange is really more of a copperish orange than the Grabber orange from GM so to speak. Here is a shot of the color on the cap for a sense of the shade.

Just came in from the shop, I ws planning on spraying some color tonight. My guns had other ideas. In the last few days of working I must have forgot to thuroughly clean my guns....now I must work hard to clean all the crap out of them. I hate dumb mistakes

WE3RX7 · 08-25-2009, 08:13 PM

Ah - thats a good shade of orange. thats more what I was looking for.... cant wait to see it!

Is that paint a mica or larger flake? What gun are you using to spray it?

need RX7 · 08-25-2009, 08:32 PM

Awesome job so far. I love seeing someone putting in the time and effort to bring one these cars back to life, rather than just driving it into the ground and throwing it away. Most people would ask why you bother, but we all know they're stupid and just don't understand

. This is a real inspiration, I'm trying to do the same thing with my FC.

BigIslandSevens · 08-26-2009, 06:12 AM

The paint is a mica paint( pearl paint, same thing) My priginal color choice was the "copperhead pearl) used on the show trucks when they built the C10 truck. Problem is it is 230.00 a quart!!! So I did some flipping thru the color books and found this. I hope it turns out like I planned.

As for guns, I currently have just some cheapo HVLP guns. I believe they are made by DevilBiss. They work OK but I really want a couple anesta iwata(sp?) guns. My buddy switched from SATA jet to those and loves them. $$ guns though. But they do nice work on getting the product to the surface you are spraying. Much like any paintwork, it is all about the prep. I have seen some awsome paint from a 40 Kobalt gun from Lowes

WE3RX7 · 08-26-2009, 07:41 AM

Yea - I just have a cheapo HVLP that I intend to use someday on an FB project... havent cracked it open yet. Paint is something I dont have enough practice with just yet...

Tanj! · 08-26-2009, 11:27 AM

Where you spraying the Por15? If so how did you like the product? I'm leaning towards using their stuff and it's hard finding people who pony up for it and to get impressions from them.

BigIslandSevens · 08-26-2009, 04:03 PM

I like the product. So far it has worked well. I buy it in the quart form and actually apply it with a traditional hand brush. About a 2 inch brush works well. The main thing is you still MUST remove as much of the rust as possible. It can't work miracles. It is a inhibitor I believe more than a rust converter/transformer. I took everything that had rust down to bare metal and then put it on. Scuff it with a scotchbrite pad and prime over it. Then prep as normal/needed.

You can use a spray gun to apply it as well. I just have never needed to do that big of an area. I think a quart is about 40 bucks at my paint shop

WE3RX7 · 08-26-2009, 04:37 PM

I applied all my POR15 by hand as well. Used a 2" foam brush and small roller... turned out ok. I didnt like it at first as it seemed VERY easy to get runs, once I got the hang of it though I was pleased.

I used their semi-gloss which turned out glossier than expected, but still looks nice!

BigIslandSevens · 08-26-2009, 06:30 PM

Yeah, the POR likes to run pretty quickly. And I also have found that thye foam brush works better as it doesn't leave bristle marks.( As I found out) I fear major runs if sprayed. I'll try it one day.

I have the color layed down and it looks pretty nice. I have a couple areas I don't like, but that is due to not hitting the tight areas well enough when wet-sanding. I can live with it for the time being. Laying clear in a little bit tonight. Tough engine bay to paint. I need to get a mini HVLP gun now. It would have made the job alot easier getting to the little tight corners. I'll go snap some shots of it with just the color on it now and post them in a few minutes.

Thanks for the comments so far on the project. I still haven't addressed the leaky radiator

I may throw a S4 rad in there as I have access to one. We'll see.

Dave

WE3RX7 · 08-26-2009, 06:38 PM

May as well go w/ the S4 radiator since you've gone through this much trouble.

Cant wait to see the color

BigIslandSevens · 08-26-2009, 06:54 PM

Like I said. It is not perfect. But for a quick budget resto, I think I will proceed. Although the flash really shows where I didn't get good coverage. Afraid of runs if I went closer or longer in those tight spots. hopefully they will not be to embarrasing. The wheel wells and shock tower inners are going to be blacked out. Either truckbed coating or rubberized undercoat.So is the bottom of the frame rails and the trans tunnel area

Here are some color shots. No clearcoat on it yet.1 quart of color, or 3 good coats.
Opinions on whether to proceed are welcome. Or try to cover the few small areas.

WE3RX7 · 08-26-2009, 09:18 PM

Looks really nice actually - I love that color now even more.

The only areas I would attempt to get more coverage on before clear would be the areas behind the headlights leading into where the rad shrouds go. Since you'll have those nice black rad shrouds there, it'll make a nice sharp line in the paint and with the hood up it would great... other than that I think you're good.

Most people will just be impressed at how clean the engine bay is and the fact that its cleared. Only you will really notice the "bad" spots...

BigIslandSevens · 08-27-2009, 04:08 AM

Yeah, Those are the spots that bug me the worst. I know I will see them everytime I lift the hood. So, I did not clear it yet and will redue those spots and maybe the frame rails a bit further back into the tunnel area. I have come this far I might as well spend 1 more day getting full coverage. Time to head to a friends paint shop and borrow a mini gun and some advice on the touch-up procedure.

I was impressed with the color as well. Thanks for the comments, it confirmed what I already knew I needed to do

Dave

JShiz · 08-27-2009, 10:15 AM

That copper looks a lot better than I thought. I like it a lot.

BigIslandSevens · 08-27-2009, 08:18 PM

Well, I broke out the old mini spray gun I had about 8 years ago. Broke it down at 3 AM and started soaking it in cleaner for the day. Got back to the house around 3 and did some touch-up work with it in the few spots that were still showing primer. I haven't used this gun in like 8 years as stated earlier, so I was rusty as it is a conventional pressure gun instead of HVLP. But, I think it worked out alright.

Then I layed down 2 coats of clear. Ran out of clear after 2 coats

I usually like to do 3 minimum) Waiting for the smoke to clear so to speak. Then I will snap some pics and post them up.

08-25-2009, 08:32 PM	#18
need RX7 Clean S4 Nutswinger Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Sterling Heights, MI iTrader: (0) Posts: 485 Rep Power: 17	Awesome job so far. I love seeing someone putting in the time and effort to bring one these cars back to life, rather than just driving it into the ground and throwing it away. Most people would ask why you bother, but we all know they're stupid and just don't understand . This is a real inspiration, I'm trying to do the same thing with my FC. __________________ -Ted -1986 Mazda RX7 Sport [DD/beater]: engine finally let go at 205k. parts car status. -1986 Mazda RX7 base [resto-mod project]: S5 n/a swap in progress.

08-26-2009, 06:54 PM	#26
BigIslandSevens Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Denver, NC iTrader: (0) Posts: 201 Rep Power: 17	Like I said. It is not perfect. But for a quick budget resto, I think I will proceed. Although the flash really shows where I didn't get good coverage. Afraid of runs if I went closer or longer in those tight spots. hopefully they will not be to embarrasing. The wheel wells and shock tower inners are going to be blacked out. Either truckbed coating or rubberized undercoat.So is the bottom of the frame rails and the trans tunnel area Here are some color shots. No clearcoat on it yet.1 quart of color, or 3 good coats. Opinions on whether to proceed are welcome. Or try to cover the few small areas. Last edited by BigIslandSevens; 08-26-2009 at 06:57 PM..

08-27-2009, 04:08 AM	#28
BigIslandSevens Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Denver, NC iTrader: (0) Posts: 201 Rep Power: 17	Yeah, Those are the spots that bug me the worst. I know I will see them everytime I lift the hood. So, I did not clear it yet and will redue those spots and maybe the frame rails a bit further back into the tunnel area. I have come this far I might as well spend 1 more day getting full coverage. Time to head to a friends paint shop and borrow a mini gun and some advice on the touch-up procedure. I was impressed with the color as well. Thanks for the comments, it confirmed what I already knew I needed to do Dave Last edited by BigIslandSevens; 08-27-2009 at 04:17 AM..

08-25-2009, 05:04 PM	#16
BigIslandSevens Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Denver, NC iTrader: (0) Posts: 201 Rep Power: 17	^ Thanks man, I enjoy seeing your metal work skills as well. And the time involved. It is never appreciated. The orange is really more of a copperish orange than the Grabber orange from GM so to speak. Here is a shot of the color on the cap for a sense of the shade. Just came in from the shop, I ws planning on spraying some color tonight. My guns had other ideas. In the last few days of working I must have forgot to thuroughly clean my guns....now I must work hard to clean all the crap out of them. I hate dumb mistakes

08-25-2009, 08:13 PM	#17
WE3RX7 RCC Addict Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: VA iTrader: (1) Posts: 1,812 Rep Power: 18	Ah - thats a good shade of orange. thats more what I was looking for.... cant wait to see it! Is that paint a mica or larger flake? What gun are you using to spray it?

08-26-2009, 06:12 AM	#19
BigIslandSevens Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Denver, NC iTrader: (0) Posts: 201 Rep Power: 17	The paint is a mica paint( pearl paint, same thing) My priginal color choice was the "copperhead pearl) used on the show trucks when they built the C10 truck. Problem is it is 230.00 a quart!!! So I did some flipping thru the color books and found this. I hope it turns out like I planned. As for guns, I currently have just some cheapo HVLP guns. I believe they are made by DevilBiss. They work OK but I really want a couple anesta iwata(sp?) guns. My buddy switched from SATA jet to those and loves them. $$ guns though. But they do nice work on getting the product to the surface you are spraying. Much like any paintwork, it is all about the prep. I have seen some awsome paint from a 40 Kobalt gun from Lowes

08-26-2009, 07:41 AM	#20
WE3RX7 RCC Addict Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: VA iTrader: (1) Posts: 1,812 Rep Power: 18	Yea - I just have a cheapo HVLP that I intend to use someday on an FB project... havent cracked it open yet. Paint is something I dont have enough practice with just yet...

08-26-2009, 11:27 AM	#21
Tanj! Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Dallas, TX iTrader: (0) Posts: 44 Rep Power: 0	Where you spraying the Por15? If so how did you like the product? I'm leaning towards using their stuff and it's hard finding people who pony up for it and to get impressions from them.

08-26-2009, 04:03 PM	#22
BigIslandSevens Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Denver, NC iTrader: (0) Posts: 201 Rep Power: 17	I like the product. So far it has worked well. I buy it in the quart form and actually apply it with a traditional hand brush. About a 2 inch brush works well. The main thing is you still MUST remove as much of the rust as possible. It can't work miracles. It is a inhibitor I believe more than a rust converter/transformer. I took everything that had rust down to bare metal and then put it on. Scuff it with a scotchbrite pad and prime over it. Then prep as normal/needed. You can use a spray gun to apply it as well. I just have never needed to do that big of an area. I think a quart is about 40 bucks at my paint shop

08-26-2009, 04:37 PM	#23
WE3RX7 RCC Addict Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: VA iTrader: (1) Posts: 1,812 Rep Power: 18	I applied all my POR15 by hand as well. Used a 2" foam brush and small roller... turned out ok. I didnt like it at first as it seemed VERY easy to get runs, once I got the hang of it though I was pleased. I used their semi-gloss which turned out glossier than expected, but still looks nice!

08-26-2009, 06:30 PM	#24
BigIslandSevens Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Denver, NC iTrader: (0) Posts: 201 Rep Power: 17	Yeah, the POR likes to run pretty quickly. And I also have found that thye foam brush works better as it doesn't leave bristle marks.( As I found out) I fear major runs if sprayed. I'll try it one day. I have the color layed down and it looks pretty nice. I have a couple areas I don't like, but that is due to not hitting the tight areas well enough when wet-sanding. I can live with it for the time being. Laying clear in a little bit tonight. Tough engine bay to paint. I need to get a mini HVLP gun now. It would have made the job alot easier getting to the little tight corners. I'll go snap some shots of it with just the color on it now and post them in a few minutes. Thanks for the comments so far on the project. I still haven't addressed the leaky radiator I may throw a S4 rad in there as I have access to one. We'll see. Dave

08-26-2009, 06:38 PM	#25
WE3RX7 RCC Addict Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: VA iTrader: (1) Posts: 1,812 Rep Power: 18	May as well go w/ the S4 radiator since you've gone through this much trouble. Cant wait to see the color

08-26-2009, 09:18 PM	#27
WE3RX7 RCC Addict Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: VA iTrader: (1) Posts: 1,812 Rep Power: 18	Looks really nice actually - I love that color now even more. The only areas I would attempt to get more coverage on before clear would be the areas behind the headlights leading into where the rad shrouds go. Since you'll have those nice black rad shrouds there, it'll make a nice sharp line in the paint and with the hood up it would great... other than that I think you're good. Most people will just be impressed at how clean the engine bay is and the fact that its cleared. Only you will really notice the "bad" spots...

08-27-2009, 10:15 AM	#29
JShiz ZOMG WTF BBQ!!! Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Mobile, Al iTrader: (0) Posts: 280 Rep Power: 17	That copper looks a lot better than I thought. I like it a lot.

08-27-2009, 08:18 PM	#30
BigIslandSevens Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Denver, NC iTrader: (0) Posts: 201 Rep Power: 17	Well, I broke out the old mini spray gun I had about 8 years ago. Broke it down at 3 AM and started soaking it in cleaner for the day. Got back to the house around 3 and did some touch-up work with it in the few spots that were still showing primer. I haven't used this gun in like 8 years as stated earlier, so I was rusty as it is a conventional pressure gun instead of HVLP. But, I think it worked out alright. Then I layed down 2 coats of clear. Ran out of clear after 2 coats I usually like to do 3 minimum) Waiting for the smoke to clear so to speak. Then I will snap some pics and post them up.