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03-30-2009, 07:10 PM | #17 |
Clean S4 Nutswinger
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I wish I could go to DGRR, so many awesome cars are going to be there.
Great job on the build so far.
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-Ted -1986 Mazda RX7 Sport [DD/beater]: engine finally let go at 205k. parts car status. -1986 Mazda RX7 base [resto-mod project]: S5 n/a swap in progress. |
04-04-2009, 08:16 AM | #18 |
crash auto?fix auto
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Small update:
Engine in and all assembled, need to get a couple hose clamps for the upper rad hose. Its all ready to be filled with life fluids. This afternoon after I get this FD's engine bay back together, I'll be filling it up, hooking up the instrument cluster (tomake sure the tach works with the TEC) and trying to fire this monster up. I'm very pleased with the new intake setup. Moved from the tiny K&N filter to this larger 6" baby. I liked the shorty, but it would get dirty FAST. I suppose thats mostly because I don't necessairly drive the car in "ideal" conditions all the time, but the small filter area would get caked in black crud after 3-4 weeks of hard driving. I got tired of cleaning it. Also, the old greddy manifold gave me a turbo placement that was difficult to manage anything ince on intake wise. I basically just had a 45* coupler, and filter. Only to get it barely out of the wash from the primary rad fan. I do have to make one plate to block off the EGR tube. I won't be able to run it anymore with this manifold/exhaust (yes, I ran it up until now) so I'll cut the flange off, weld the hole up and bolt it on. [soap opera voice]Oh my sweet, we shall make beautiful music together[/soap opera voice] |
04-04-2009, 08:44 PM | #20 |
Test Whore - Admin
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Looks like I won the start up contest Got about 60 miles on her too. Nearly impossible to stay out of boost. Running non-sequential I was @ 0 psi by 2500 with light throttle. Although it's doubtful I'll attend DGRR @ this point. I'll give ya the full deatils with pics tomorrow. I can't take the greatest pic until tomorrow afternoon.
Looking good Joe. Happy fires! |
04-04-2009, 10:28 PM | #21 |
I-had-a-bad-experience...
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You have to come!
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'15 Juke Nismo '06 MX-5 GT SOLD '04 S Silver RX-8 GT Track Day Use SOLD '90 Black TII vert w/ Sprint RE stock port/turbo DD dyno (242.6whp@5500rpm @12psi 8psi@redline) and (250ftlbtq@4800rpm @13psi) SOLD '89 GTUs 6p TII SOLD, '87 sport SOLD, '79 SA stock SOLD '91 B2600i 4x4 w/ Rx-8 LSD SOLD |
04-06-2009, 10:06 AM | #22 |
crash auto?fix auto
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Well I got her fired up sunday. Couldn't run it long though as there's a random fuel leak in the center of one of my braided AN lines>>>?!???
Wanted to make sure I'd have no problems connecting to the ECU (really easy, much faster then the E6X) loading my map (also super easy and fast) and that everything would be wired correctly (seems fine. Sensors all reading correctly etc.) Obviously, I still need to put the dash back in, but other then that and the fuel leak, its ready to join the downpipe up to the exhaust and put some miles on it!! trying to youtube the vid but the upload is kicking my ass |
04-06-2009, 11:40 AM | #23 |
crash auto?fix auto
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JrMsneShkdQ
Video is terrible |
04-06-2009, 01:40 PM | #25 | |
The Newbie
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Quote:
As long as it isn't a long run of SS line it is cheap so just take it out and replace it...should be simple enough right? In my LS1 build that was the only issue I had at initial start up, one of my AN to hardline adapter fittings was leaking so I had to REALLY torque it down. I really don't like AN fittings. The ones for my oil cooler seap a little also and they are tight, it is frustrating. |
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04-06-2009, 01:48 PM | #26 |
Test Whore - Admin
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Yeah, that's a wierd leak to have. I love AN fittings. So much nicer than rubber. Hell, I welded a -10 bung onto my waterpump housing for the return from the heater core and I also pulled both the nipples out of the rear iron and tapped them. The one on for the TB is now a 1/4" NPT plug, and the one for the feed to the heatercore I tapped to 1/2" NPT and used a 1/2" to -10 fitting with one of the puch to fit fittings. Makes taking the hoses off SOOOOOOOOOOOOOO much easier. 1/4 turn with a wrench and back it off by hand. A lot better than trying to monkey with those hoses.
As for the hardline adapters, if you were using them with the stock lines, the stock lines are a little smaller than the hardlines that the adapters were intended for, so I'm not surprised that then needed to be cranked on Just my opinion |
04-06-2009, 02:23 PM | #28 |
crash auto?fix auto
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Cozmo, I'm on the fence about the AN stuff. As said its nice and easy to R&I once its all made up, but I've got some seepage issues on the ones for my oil cooelr as well...just aggrivating. But i'll address them slowly.
The line thats leaking may be leaking as you say, and working its way up the SS sheath, but I ahve a feeling the line just has a hole in it. It literally sprays a stream across the TB, onto the top of the engine, and up a bit onto the hood I turned the pump on at first and could smell gas bad, I poked my head out of the cabin and went HOLY MOTHER! Really no idea how that happened, they were all fine before. I have a piece of -6 that might be long enough to replace it, if not I'll use some regular old 3/8" fuel injector hose and nasty clamps to get me by for now. I love the ease of AN, but its a bit of a pain in the rear to make. I'm already cringing at the number of pinholes im going to make in my hands fixing this one If I did it again I'd use the black nylon sheathed stuff....wouldn't abriad anything touching it as badly I'd think. |
04-06-2009, 04:30 PM | #29 |
Pirate
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hey guys, I just wanted to ask something as far as oil cooler an fittings:
would it be a bad idea to use teflon "tape" on these? Like, the kind that people use with water pipes? (real thin and NOT sticky)
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Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated! |
04-06-2009, 05:18 PM | #30 |
The Newbie
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the -6 stands for 6/16ths which is 3/8ths. You can use standard 3/8ths fuel line with some -6 fittings (depends on the outer diameter of the hose)...
I HATE with a capital HATE, SS braided. I always use the Nomex or Nylon braided for my projects (depending on application). Much easier on the hands ... If I need something for extremely high pressure I use the TFE hose that is SS, but that is usually only for power steering lines and stuff over 1500psi (which is only really PS). FWIW I think Nylon braided is NHRA legal now too. So it passes tech. I know that was an issue before. The plummer's tape on the oil cooler lines is a good idea. Too bad I would probably have to pull my engine to get to them. I would use the oil/gas resistant plummer's tape though, it is usually pink instead of white. It would work better in the oil cooler application. AN fittings are supposed to seal though, I mean they cost enough...they should seal. It is only after everything is installed that you find the leaks and then it takes exponentially more time to fix/tighten. Last edited by cozmo kraemer; 04-06-2009 at 05:21 PM.. |