Your experience with various coilers

[infernosg]

If you stick with the stock rear subframe-to-body bushings you can actually run three "camber-correcting" devices at the same time: the adjustable "vertical link", the individual camber adjusters (think AWR), and Whiteline (I think) has some offset upper polyurethance bushings for the rear hubs.

My rear isn't too (coils are at the maximum height) low but like Ted said the negative camber can quickly get out of hand. I have delrin subframe-to-body bushings so I can't use an adjustable vertical link to correct camber. I have the AWR individual adjusters and I'm seriously considering the Whiteline bushings.

FWIW, I think Whiteline also has offset bushings for the rear of the front control arms to increase caster.

[project86]

Originally Posted by chibikougan

Thats why mine was so low short stroke coilers and I had AWR eerything in the arse lateral links spherical bearings etc.

Stop making fun of my grammar mistake.... or else....

Originally Posted by infernosg

If you stick with the stock rear subframe-to-body bushings you can actually run three "camber-correcting" devices at the same time: the adjustable "vertical link", the individual camber adjusters (think AWR), and Whiteline (I think) has some offset upper polyurethance bushings for the rear hubs.

My rear isn't too (coils are at the maximum height) low but like Ted said the negative camber can quickly get out of hand. I have delrin subframe-to-body bushings so I can't use an adjustable vertical link to correct camber. I have the AWR individual adjusters and I'm seriously considering the Whiteline bushings.

FWIW, I think Whiteline also has offset bushings for the rear of the front control arms to increase caster.

Do you have pics of your set up? Do you think i'd be missing out by not replacing the subframe to body bushings?

[chibikougan]

but i like the coilers.....

[infernosg]

Originally Posted by project86

Do you have pics of your set up?

These are the only pictures I have of the AWR pieces.

Stock on left, AWR on right:



Installed on the car:



With the Stance coilovers at the highest setting (any taller and the strut body would pop out) I have the AWR pieces max'd out (at their shortest setting) and I'm a little under (over?) one degree of negative camber in the rear. Like Ted said this causes the upper part of the bolt to hit the body under compression. Because of that I've cut off ~1/4" of the bolt for a little more clearance.

Originally Posted by project86

Do you think i'd be missing out by not replacing the subframe to body bushings?

Given the age of the car I'd at least replace them with OEM parts. There isn't a "Mazdaspeed" option for the subframe-to-body bushings like there is for the engine, transmission, and differential so there's no middle ground between the "soft" stock bushings and "solid" aftermarket ones.

[project86]

Do you have a picture of your car?

[infernosg]

Originally Posted by project86

Do you have a picture of your car?

That car is long gone but here are some pictures from around that time. I was able to get more camber out of the rear after these pictures as I mentioned above.

[project86]

Man.. so i guess people that have their FCs pretty low had to modify the rear to get it to work correctly? which bolt exactly did you have to cut?

[mattallac]

Try Ground Control .com there suspension parts are top of the line for the $ . they are in northern california .

[infernosg]

Originally Posted by project86

Man.. so i guess people that have their FCs pretty low had to modify the rear to get it to work correctly? which bolt exactly did you have to cut?

See the long bolt connecting the two ends in my first picture of the AWR piece above? You reduce negative camber but tightening that, which brings the two ends together. This causes the threaded portion of the bolt to stick out above the top end, which brings it very close to the body. For me it always contacted the passenger's side storage bin. Not so much the driver's side for some reason.

One thing I never got to try was to see if I could use the second, upper hole on the bottom piece. I'm pretty sure it's there so AWR could machine one design for both sides but if the upper hole could be used you'd automatically gain another .5-1 in. of adjustment to reduce negative camber. I'm pretty sure you'd have to slightly modify the control arm though. I may try this when my current car is at the body shop and I have easy access to the subframe again.

[RETed]

Originally Posted by project86

Man.. so i guess people that have their FCs pretty low had to modify the rear to get it to work correctly? which bolt exactly did you have to cut?

You just can't...
The rear suspension has to be extensively modified.
Nothing off-the-shelf will fix the extreme negative camber in the back when you tuck the wheels into the fenders.
I've had coilovers dropped all the way to the point I was dragging my gas tank on the ground...we're talking -5 or more degrees of camber.
My rear camber adjust rod was collapsed all the way down.
Even if I had the front adjust links, it might dial out another 1 degree.
After that, the rear subframe just clangs onto itself and makes a horrible racket.

Fronts can go lower, but you usually bottom out most of the drop-in struts / shocks made for the FC.
Basically, you'd need a custom short-stroke set-up for front and front camber plates to adjust...
Read: big bucks and lots of custom work


-Ted

[project86]

Originally Posted by RETed

You just can't...
The rear suspension has to be extensively modified.
Nothing off-the-shelf will fix the extreme negative camber in the back when you tuck the wheels into the fenders.
I've had coilovers dropped all the way to the point I was dragging my gas tank on the ground...we're talking -5 or more degrees of camber.
My rear camber adjust rod was collapsed all the way down.
Even if I had the front adjust links, it might dial out another 1 degree.
After that, the rear subframe just clangs onto itself and makes a horrible racket.

Fronts can go lower, but you usually bottom out most of the drop-in struts / shocks made for the FC.
Basically, you'd need a custom short-stroke set-up for front and front camber plates to adjust...
Read: big bucks and lots of custom work


-Ted

Thanks Ted.

It seems as long as I'm not trying to drag frame... which I'm not... I should be satisfied with the ride height.

This car has been a been stuck in my head since i found it years ago. I love the stance of it.

http://www.stancenation.com/2010/10/...school-flavor/

[RETed]

Originally Posted by project86

Thanks Ted.

It seems as long as I'm not trying to drag frame... which I'm not... I should be satisfied with the ride height.

This car has been a been stuck in my head since i found it years ago. I love the stance of it.

http://www.stancenation.com/2010/10/...school-flavor/

Body kit parts will make the car look lower than it really is...
FEED front lip, or that blasted copy from that guy was who ripping people off
I believe those are the old Border side skirts.
R.E. Amemiya rear, side bumper caps?

Not a fan of the hippari tire stretch.

Fenders have been pulled.
The rear camber is significant - over -2 degrees, which will eat the tires.
Fronts got more negative camber than rear, but that's easily fixed with front camber plates.


-Ted

[project86]

Originally Posted by RETed

Body kit parts will make the car look lower than it really is...
FEED front lip, or that blasted copy from that guy was who ripping people off
I believe those are the old Border side skirts.
R.E. Amemiya rear, side bumper caps?

Not a fan of the hippari tire stretch.

Fenders have been pulled.
The rear camber is significant - over -2 degrees, which will eat the tires.
Fronts got more negative camber than rear, but that's easily fixed with front camber plates.


-Ted

Also don't like stretch. I really do want the mazdaspeed style lip. Corksport used to sell it but they don't anymore... in fact.. they don't sell much for FCs at all now.

[93rx7r1]

I have the Tein Flex coilovers on my FD as well & I have been very happy with them as well. I do some auto X here and there as well as spirited weekend driving.