3 Rotor FB build - "Silvie II"

ducktape · 07-28-2010, 10:38 AM

On to page 2!

Painted the first coat of rattlecan silver. Pretty happy with the color; Was worried it would look too "bass boat". A couple of flat areas are visible in the paint, I'll sand and respray those tomorrow.

MaX PoWeR · 07-28-2010, 11:32 AM

This is outstanding!! I have seen a project build on the forums in a while. Keep up the good work. Can't wait to see her run!

ducktape · 07-29-2010, 08:54 AM

Okay, last cage pics for a while. Wetsanded the whole deal and gave it another coat. Turned out pretty good. I broke out the old carpet and put it back in (not pictured). I HATE this cranberry interior color with a passion. I wish I had been able to get a hold of a black or grey interior, but I was never able to find one in good shape. I guess I'll live with it.

Okay, enough boring interior stuff. The only reason I spent so much time on it was because it needed immediate attention due to the years of neglect.

Tonight, I'm going to pull the engine out and start working on it. Stay tuned.

ducktape · 07-29-2010, 02:27 PM

Just started looking at T6 manifolds... Depressingly expensive to buy outright. I've been spoiled by dirt-cheap 13b parts.

I've seen a couple of designs I like, may try to reproduce something similar to the Kiwi design. I got a quote from a local shop that does good work for around $900 material and labor (2 years ago). At the time that seemed excessive, but now it sounds like a steal. Anyone have any suggestions?

-xlr8planet- · 07-29-2010, 09:42 PM

If its not too much trouble, could you take pics of the rear of the roll cage? does it extend under the car?

Thanks!

C. Ludwig · 08-01-2010, 08:17 PM

Thought about dying the carpet?

ducktape · 08-02-2010, 12:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by C. Ludwig

Thought about dying the carpet?

Nah, I should just learn to live with it. That cage has the headliner and trim locked in. Going to try shampooing it, if that doesn't work I'm going to raid the carpet out of Josh's parts car. In fact, I might just try to take that whole car off his hands. It has a maroon interior, working door handles, crank windows, and a windshield.

PS: I keep thinking about moving the motor further back. I figured out how to make the shifter work with the motor pushed back to the firewall.

lh6601 · 08-02-2010, 03:08 PM

Nice muthafuckin project man

ducktape · 08-02-2010, 10:24 PM

It's so damned hot and humid right now, I'm just not getting much done. I think I'm going to switch back to working on this thing late at night to avoid the high temps.

In any case, the engine is out and shortblock'd. I'm starting on cleanup, and trying to figure out if I want to crack it open for some porting.

All the numbers match. D-series, #212. Arguably the most desirable, with the improved e-shaft and meatier side plates. I am very lucky to have this motor!

I'm taking notes on what needs to be done to this motor. I think I have decided to cut and file the EGR cavity on the UIM. I'm going to build my own fuel rails and use top-feed injectors for the primaries. I'll use an N/A 13b water pump and housing with double-belt pulleys. I can't remember if I sold my REW flywheel; I hope not.

Just for shits and grins, here's what a 1st gen looks like with a 2nd gen crossmember.

C. Ludwig · 08-03-2010, 04:36 PM

You need a flywheel that bolts to the 20Bs auto counterweight.

need RX7 · 08-03-2010, 04:39 PM

Nice!

Rotary no Densetsu · 08-03-2010, 08:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ducktape

Just started looking at T6 manifolds... Depressingly expensive to buy outright. I've been spoiled by dirt-cheap 13b parts.

I've seen a couple of designs I like, may try to reproduce something similar to the Kiwi design. I got a quote from a local shop that does good work for around $900 material and labor (2 years ago). At the time that seemed excessive, but now it sounds like a steal. Anyone have any suggestions?

We are currently making a manifold for the 20b. I can send you some pictures when its finished, if you are interested still. Should be pretty badass.

Here are a couple pictures I have now for my car.

Like I said, let me know if you are interested, i dont mean to hijack your thread. lmao

ducktape · 08-03-2010, 09:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rotary no Densetsu

We are currently making a manifold for the 20b. I can send you some pictures when its finished, if you are interested still. Should be pretty badass.

Like I said, let me know if you are interested, i dont mean to hijack your thread. lmao

It will be a while before I buy a manifold, but I am interested. Are you building it with equal length runners? Send me pics and details when you finish it.

ducktape · 02-06-2011, 01:27 AM

This thread isn't dead!

After being out of work for almost a year, I had some financial obligations to take care of. So this project didn't really pick up steam until November. I've been taking pics since then, but haven't posted. The goal is to have it rolling this summer. Going to miss DGRR, but there will be other events.

As it stands the 20b is at LMS-EFI for port work. I have the LIM and UIM, and am prepping them for powdercoat. I've selected my transmission: Liberty Tremec TKO 600 5-speed with the faceplate option. Really doing my homework on gear ratios, and taking measurements to fit. Based on what I have learned, I think I may need to move the motor back another 2-3 inhes. This tranny would fit perfectly in the stock position if you could put the shifter in the middle of the dash. :P

ducktape · 02-06-2011, 01:39 AM

Core Support

At some point in this car's past it was involved in a low-speed collision on the drivers-side front corner. The damage wasn't really noticeable until I tried to replace the panels. valence and fender would not line up no matter how hard I tried. I actually managed to ruin a perfectly good fender by crushing it with the door when I opened it.

I bought a $150 rear-quarter wrecked '83 GS with a blown motor for parts. The donor car core-support was cut out and welded in place once the backing tube was pushed forward a bit. Here's a couple of pics:

07-28-2010, 10:38 AM	#16
ducktape Hardcore Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Louisville, Ky iTrader: (0) Posts: 88 Rep Power: 15	On to page 2! Painted the first coat of rattlecan silver. Pretty happy with the color; Was worried it would look too "bass boat". A couple of flat areas are visible in the paint, I'll sand and respray those tomorrow. Last edited by ducktape; 07-28-2010 at 10:53 AM..

07-29-2010, 09:42 PM	#20
-xlr8planet- RCC Contributor Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina iTrader: (4) Posts: 679 Rep Power: 17	If its not too much trouble, could you take pics of the rear of the roll cage? does it extend under the car? Thanks! __________________ www.rx7club.com.ar RX-7 Forum in Spanish I make custom decals. Yes, you can ask me

08-02-2010, 03:08 PM	#23
lh6601 Down with OPP Join Date: Mar 2010 iTrader: (0) Posts: 50 Rep Power: 15	Nice muthafuckin project man __________________ 86 base, TII swapped, Rtek 2.1, some other things. Daily driven.

08-03-2010, 04:36 PM	#25
C. Ludwig Rotary Masochist Join Date: May 2008 Location: Floyds Knobs, IN iTrader: (5) Posts: 494 Rep Power: 17	You need a flywheel that bolts to the 20Bs auto counterweight. __________________ _______________________________________________ *One stop Haltech, AEM, Syvecs shopping. Installation and tuning.* http://www.lms-efi.com *Free support. Drop us an email.* chris@lms-efi.com 502-515-7482 Facebook @LMS-EFI

08-03-2010, 04:39 PM	#26
need RX7 Clean S4 Nutswinger Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Sterling Heights, MI iTrader: (0) Posts: 485 Rep Power: 17	Nice! __________________ -Ted -1986 Mazda RX7 Sport [DD/beater]: engine finally let go at 205k. parts car status. -1986 Mazda RX7 base [resto-mod project]: S5 n/a swap in progress.

07-28-2010, 11:32 AM	#17
MaX PoWeR The Newbie Join Date: Apr 2009 iTrader: (0) Posts: 9 Rep Power: 0	This is outstanding!! I have seen a project build on the forums in a while. Keep up the good work. Can't wait to see her run!

07-29-2010, 08:54 AM	#18
ducktape Hardcore Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Louisville, Ky iTrader: (0) Posts: 88 Rep Power: 15	Okay, last cage pics for a while. Wetsanded the whole deal and gave it another coat. Turned out pretty good. I broke out the old carpet and put it back in (not pictured). I HATE this cranberry interior color with a passion. I wish I had been able to get a hold of a black or grey interior, but I was never able to find one in good shape. I guess I'll live with it. Okay, enough boring interior stuff. The only reason I spent so much time on it was because it needed immediate attention due to the years of neglect. Tonight, I'm going to pull the engine out and start working on it. Stay tuned.

07-29-2010, 02:27 PM	#19
ducktape Hardcore Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Louisville, Ky iTrader: (0) Posts: 88 Rep Power: 15	Just started looking at T6 manifolds... Depressingly expensive to buy outright. I've been spoiled by dirt-cheap 13b parts. I've seen a couple of designs I like, may try to reproduce something similar to the Kiwi design. I got a quote from a local shop that does good work for around $900 material and labor (2 years ago). At the time that seemed excessive, but now it sounds like a steal. Anyone have any suggestions?

08-01-2010, 08:17 PM	#21
C. Ludwig Rotary Masochist Join Date: May 2008 Location: Floyds Knobs, IN iTrader: (5) Posts: 494 Rep Power: 17	Thought about dying the carpet? __________________ _______________________________________________ *One stop Haltech, AEM, Syvecs shopping. Installation and tuning.* http://www.lms-efi.com *Free support. Drop us an email.* chris@lms-efi.com 502-515-7482 Facebook @LMS-EFI

08-02-2010, 10:24 PM	#24
ducktape Hardcore Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Louisville, Ky iTrader: (0) Posts: 88 Rep Power: 15	It's so damned hot and humid right now, I'm just not getting much done. I think I'm going to switch back to working on this thing late at night to avoid the high temps. In any case, the engine is out and shortblock'd. I'm starting on cleanup, and trying to figure out if I want to crack it open for some porting. All the numbers match. D-series, #212. Arguably the most desirable, with the improved e-shaft and meatier side plates. I am very lucky to have this motor! I'm taking notes on what needs to be done to this motor. I think I have decided to cut and file the EGR cavity on the UIM. I'm going to build my own fuel rails and use top-feed injectors for the primaries. I'll use an N/A 13b water pump and housing with double-belt pulleys. I can't remember if I sold my REW flywheel; I hope not. Just for shits and grins, here's what a 1st gen looks like with a 2nd gen crossmember.

02-06-2011, 01:27 AM	#29
ducktape Hardcore Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Louisville, Ky iTrader: (0) Posts: 88 Rep Power: 15	This thread isn't dead! After being out of work for almost a year, I had some financial obligations to take care of. So this project didn't really pick up steam until November. I've been taking pics since then, but haven't posted. The goal is to have it rolling this summer. Going to miss DGRR, but there will be other events. As it stands the 20b is at LMS-EFI for port work. I have the LIM and UIM, and am prepping them for powdercoat. I've selected my transmission: Liberty Tremec TKO 600 5-speed with the faceplate option. Really doing my homework on gear ratios, and taking measurements to fit. Based on what I have learned, I think I may need to move the motor back another 2-3 inhes. This tranny would fit perfectly in the stock position if you could put the shifter in the middle of the dash. :P

02-06-2011, 01:39 AM	#30
ducktape Hardcore Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Louisville, Ky iTrader: (0) Posts: 88 Rep Power: 15	Core Support At some point in this car's past it was involved in a low-speed collision on the drivers-side front corner. The damage wasn't really noticeable until I tried to replace the panels. valence and fender would not line up no matter how hard I tried. I actually managed to ruin a perfectly good fender by crushing it with the door when I opened it. I bought a $150 rear-quarter wrecked '83 GS with a blown motor for parts. The donor car core-support was cut out and welded in place once the backing tube was pushed forward a bit. Here's a couple of pics: