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RX-7 2nd Gen Specific (1986-92) RX-7 1986-92 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.


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Old 05-17-2010, 03:27 AM   #16
firzen
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Depends on the rust, what kind of tools you have available, and how much TLC you're willing to dump into a 20yr old car.

From the pics, it looks pretty bad. I'm going to say it's probably going to cost you a lot to restore it to a show-quality condition without it falling apart. Almost to the point I'd say it's not worth the effort- but restoration is a fun challenge, no?

Good luck.







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Old 05-17-2010, 08:34 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 13bboy View Post
what i should of said is i have repaired a lot of rust damage and i know it can b a prick, so depending on the extent of the damage if ur not sure/confident it could b a good idea 2 have it done professionally, i apologize for my blunt and thaughtless remark
You don't get it. It wasn't the comment, it's the complete lack of intelligence, maturity an thaught that ur usi whan u typ like dat u think its fine an ur tryin 2 be cool, but u aint.

Quote:
Originally Posted by firzen View Post
Depends on the rust, what kind of tools you have available, and how much TLC you're willing to dump into a 20yr old car.

From the pics, it looks pretty bad. I'm going to say it's probably going to cost you a lot to restore it to a show-quality condition without it falling apart. Almost to the point I'd say it's not worth the effort- but restoration is a fun challenge, no?

Good luck.
Alot of it looks like surface rust to me and not that bad at all. I'm more worried about the damage behind the drivers door. That is going to be a BITCH to get strait. It's fun, and it's going to be time consuming but in the end if done properly, it's going to be rewarding. Rust repair isn't all that expensive from a materials standpoint. It is costly from a time standpoint. But if you're looking for a show quality car, the chances of finding an FC in that condition are slim to none. So even if he got a new shell, he would still be looking at the very real possibility of paint/bodywork.
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Old 05-17-2010, 11:30 PM   #18
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Yes it is alot of work. I have the time to do it. I also have a local body repairman / rx7 guru in my area. Who is going to help me and show me how its done. Im confident that we can get it done. I resently ordered a stud welder for him to pull out that damage. Im just buying the materials, a few of the tools and he and I are going to do the rest. I'll post pics once we get everything in this month hopefully. And paint it in June. Well start pulling out the damage on the drivers side next week or so. Thanks for the imput folks.
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Old 05-18-2010, 03:05 AM   #19
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for starters im not tryn 2 b cool its easyer, u kno exaclty what im saying, ur havn a bitch 4 no good reason, and u cant comment on my intellligence because u dont even know me, if u were 2 have a decent conversation with me im sure u would think otherwise
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Old 05-18-2010, 07:45 AM   #20
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On my old Miata, I had rust at the lower rockers where the top drains get clogged, and the water sits there and rots. One side had about a quarter size hole, the other was a little larger.

Now, this is kind of a ghetto fix, but it worked great, and was STRONG.

We stripped the paint, wire wheeled all the rust we could see, took out the weak stuff. Since this was a budget build, we went the easiest route. Fiberglass!

First, covered the holes with body mesh stuff, then went to town with fiberglass. Once that was done, I sanded it smooth. Then covered it with Bondo, and sanded and shaped it smooth. Covered it with some primer, then we painted the entire car.

I accidentally jacked it up at one of the spots, and it didn't even budge. Win!

(I am sure Brian or Joe will scold me know)
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Old 05-18-2010, 09:27 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djmtsu View Post
On my old Miata, I had rust at the lower rockers where the top drains get clogged, and the water sits there and rots. One side had about a quarter size hole, the other was a little larger.

Now, this is kind of a ghetto fix, but it worked great, and was STRONG.

We stripped the paint, wire wheeled all the rust we could see, took out the weak stuff. Since this was a budget build, we went the easiest route. Fiberglass!

First, covered the holes with body mesh stuff, then went to town with fiberglass. Once that was done, I sanded it smooth. Then covered it with Bondo, and sanded and shaped it smooth. Covered it with some primer, then we painted the entire car.

I accidentally jacked it up at one of the spots, and it didn't even budge. Win!

(I am sure Brian or Joe will scold me know)
Scold you?? Nah, I'm going to douse you in gasoline and have you stand behind Dennis' car and have him shoot fireballs at you

The problem with fiberglass is over time it will seperate from the metal. It just won't bond properly. If you sandwiched the metal between two layers of 'glass, then it would hold more, but in the end, welding in new steel is definately the way to go. Budgets and time constraints often win out in the end though soooooooooo yeah.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 13bboy View Post
for starters im not tryn 2 b cool its easyer, u kno exaclty what im saying, ur havn a bitch 4 no good reason, and u cant comment on my intellligence because u dont even know me, if u were 2 have a decent conversation with me im sure u would think otherwise
It might be EASIER for you to type it, but the rest of us with a functioning educated brain, it causes us pain to read it. I fucking hate when people do that. Would you compose an email to your boss that way?
I've never had to use the ignore fuction before in my life regardless of the level of stupidity that I found on the evil forum, but you, I cannot stand your posts and in the effort of saving as many of my personal brain cells as possible, you're going on the ignore list. I feel a little stupider every time I read one of your posts.

Goodbye
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2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins
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I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you?
I'm pure Evil
I'm still insane, in the best possible way.
I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube.
Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion.
You win with your thread. Most everything
It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact

Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff....
No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon.
-Angry Motherf*cker Mode ENGAGED-
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Old 05-18-2010, 09:32 AM   #22
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Some people are all like ahhhh "Cut the rust out." Or someone else will say "Sandblast it, then refinish." Or Someone else will say "Bomb the rust with a convertor, and refinish."

Its usually just answers based on personal opinion and experience.
Personally if its just surface rust, I'd just sandblast it, grind it and refinish with bondo. If its more extensive just cut out and replace the area. Those are the sure fire ways of defeating rust. Now If you just grind it and refinish it will surely come back and I've seen it many times.
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Old 05-18-2010, 10:29 AM   #23
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^ I agree with Mike. Don't just grind and refinish.

@TT: OK, it's cheap for you since you have all the tools available already. I was under the assumption he was starting from scratch.

It looks like there's probably a lot under the paint which means it could be very serious. Then again, it also might be just surface stuff like what TT said.

I lean towards the sandblasting route if there's no chunks of stuff falling off or stuff rusted out of shape. It has treated me very well although you might find it troublesome.

Good luck.
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Old 05-18-2010, 06:01 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 13bboy View Post
for starters im not tryn 2 b cool its easyer, u kno exaclty what im saying, ur havn a bitch 4 no good reason, and u cant comment on my intellligence because u dont even know me, if u were 2 have a decent conversation with me im sure u would think otherwise
Grammar, spelling, and other basic English skills reflect intelligence. Let me help you so we can take you seriously; your sentences (yes, you should have more than one) should have looked more like this:
Quote:
Originally Posted by What you should have said was...
[Insert object of your attention, in this case TTT], for starters I'm not trying to be cool. It's easier [to type out the words completely and accurately, like this]. I believe you know what I mean when I type out the words correctly instead of having to guess at what I was trying to say with a jumble of misspelled words, random letters, and digits that don't belong in the word or sentence for that matter. You're praising me for using proper grammar and spelling of the English language (both your native tongue as well as my own); I thank you, but honestly it's not needed. It's just helpful in proper communication on a public forum, such as this. I thank you TTT for having this decent conversation with me and hope both you and I may have it again.
Here's a challenge for you to prove your intelligence to us: Solves Stoke's equation for a simple intake manifold: 1 inlet, 4 outlets. You will need to use both uniform flow, sources and sinks, to generate your result.

If that proves too difficult for you, you can always do this instead:

Type out your words properly and use the common standard for the English language to verify you have enough intelligence to use a computer.
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Old 05-19-2010, 02:55 AM   #25
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i completely understand vex, but titaniumtt could have said something politely before attacking my intelligence, so i kept going with it, he's just pathetic
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