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Rotary Tech - General Rotary Engine related tech section.. Tech section for general Rotary Engine... This includes, building 12As, 13Bs, 20Bs, Renesis, etc...


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Old 10-09-2009, 01:12 PM   #16
rx4ur7
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I will stand informed then. I will still check with a manufacturer that they will guarantee it's use. Would like to see a street motor after miles of use.

My only other issue with it is it's ability to find a place to leak, when put into application that had been using petroleum. Has that been addressed?

Thanks.






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Old 10-09-2009, 03:16 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by rx4ur7 View Post
I will stand informed then. I will still check with a manufacturer that they will guarantee it's use. Would like to see a street motor after miles of use.

My only other issue with it is it's ability to find a place to leak, when put into application that had been using petroleum. Has that been addressed?

Thanks.
I'm not sure. I know a lot of guys have been running synthetics without problems. A lot of the big shops like pineapple recommend synthetics. The only issue I know of is it slows the break in process due to reduced friction. It's been suggested to break in on regular oil and then switch to synthetic.

I've been running synthetic now for a year or so, (switched, no leaks) but I'm not convinced the cost is worth the benefits. It might be better to run standard oil and just change it twice as often. The upside to synthetics is reduced friction, lower operating temps, and doesn't break down as easily. It also doesn't coke up on turbo bearings as easily which can be a problem on oil only cooled turbos..Most guys running synthetic are running lighter oils (5/40, 10/40) which could be why some experience leaks? I'm running 15/50 and have no problems with it.

The older oils had high amounts phosphorous (bad for o2 sensors and cats) and a high ash content, (higher carbon buildup)

All synthetics that I know of now have to at least meet the API "SJ" rating, which specifies low content for both phosphorous and ash.

I would be more concerned in finding an oil that has not fallen prey to the reduction of zinc dithiophosphate or ZDDP which is a friction reducing additive. The new "environmentally friendly oils" have reduced this additive because it's shown to reduce the effectiveness of catalytic converters over time. By reducing the additive, engines wear out faster, especially engines under more stress. (high performance engines)

Last edited by dudemaaan; 10-09-2009 at 03:23 PM..
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Old 10-09-2009, 05:57 PM   #18
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I point that out (ZDDP) on the my forum. Couple of good links there that I found.
I agree with the concern of the new EPA safe oils. Which could push me totally into the synthetic camp. And yes good point about turbo coking. I have not seen that as much in my FD client cars since the oil is not in there more than 1500 miles. Most change at 1200.

The main problem with leaking came from using in applications, motor, trans or rear that had been using petroleum for a long time. Do not really see it as much with new builds where, yes break in is done with petroleum then switch to synthetic.
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Old 10-10-2009, 01:44 PM   #19
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Well good news, After my mix up and putting in over 1/2 quart in a tank, I ran it down to 1/2 tank and topped it off. It is running great and is not smoking or leaking at all! It runs much smoother and seems pepped up a bit over stock omp.
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Old 10-10-2009, 06:39 PM   #20
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TT- Use synthetics only on sealed motors. ie no metering pump. Problems with them are that they do not mix with fuel and they do not serve as a lubricant under combustion. I do not know of any that are made for two stroke oil savaging use.
When Mobil 1 first came out I had a car come in that was using it for 3000 miles, it was forming hard silica like deposits on the rotors and spark plugs. Went back to petroleum and eventually they went away. He was lucky none broke loose.
Save your money and stick with oil if you still have metering system. If someone does guarantee that their synthetic was made specifically for two stroke use then that may be an option.
Idemitsu claims that thier oil is intended for the rotary. I am assuming that they are referring to the metering system. Right now my OMP is blocked off from the sump and injecting 2-stroke Idemitsu. So far so good. We'll see. I'm running 10w30 and my turbo's are now leaking EVER so slightly...... damnit.


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TT - I will give kudos to those that think things out and are willing to try different things after doing a good bit of research, and they do not think they know more than factory engineers. (granted there are some exceptions) We have bantered before and I respect what you do. If anyone goes to my forum you will find my philosophy. If it ain’t broke and rarely does etc etc, KISS if one has to make a change and 99% of the time the factory know best. In my opinion the FC is the exception at 40%. Don’t flame me here my reasons will be posted on my forum.
Why thank you.... I have spent 2.5 yrs planning this thing out and building it

Not to flame, and I did go to your homepage, but why that comment about the FC?
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Old 10-11-2009, 07:28 PM   #21
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Not to flame, and I did go to your homepage, but why that comment about the FC?
I will be posting my reasons there soon. And there is no offence intended to all of those of you that love them.

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