Advice on bodywork for an FC?

[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by project86

NO shit right? I my Snap-On DA was around $250 if i remember correctly with my SEP discount with Snap-On. Im was and am still going to buy a SATAjet basecoat gun (1,4 tip) thats $700 just for one gun! Plus prep is one of the most expensive parts of the paint job and the most important part to the final outcome.

Also again! Tell me about it. I chose RM and Glasurit though (well thats waht i learned on and have available and its great stuff). It was about $350ish for my primer $600 for basecoat. I used DC5335 Glamour Clear for the whole car $250/gal. And i sprayed my CF hood with Glasurit 936-something or other and that shit is over $300/gal. This is not a cheap hobby how ever you look at it.

No shit, my old habit of hookers and blow was cheaper

Originally Posted by project86

I know im not Joe lol but like he said everyone has their own style. And you can adjust alot of things with just air pressure and how far or close you are while spraying. I dont see why there would be any problem with that gun as long as you can get it to atomize correctly. Brian judging buy the way your car looks and the fact that you've had no "formal" training?( or have you ) id say youre doing just fine.

Nope, non at all. Just an anal retentive bastard who wanted to paint his own car like 7 years ago, bought a gun and a book and made good friends with the supply house. They were really invaluable with thier little hints and tips and tricks. Like you said though, the prep work can make a huge difference on the outcome, and like I said, I'm an anal retentive bastard who has no issues working a panel to absolute perfection. Spraying took some practive, I think I painted my hood 4 times before I was happy with it. Literally. Just paid attention to what I did wrong and learned from it. My FC was my first paint job.

Originally Posted by project86

ClassicAuto: Do you paint professionally or is it just a hobby for you as well? You really seem to have a firm grasp on all this (not to sound like im like a paint god or anything). Its just nice to see someone else (Brian included) that really knows something about it and can help explain to people who dont know.

Joe is the shit, his car was fucking gorgeous when I say her at deals last year. My car looked like shit. Hadn't been compounded glazed or waxed in about 2-3 years. Getting close to that now, I think it's been 8 months or so

Originally Posted by project86

You would hate to have a bad solvent pop issue or fisheyes or bad adhering because of something like that.

Ain't that the truth............

Originally Posted by classicauto

Haven't personally used that gun, I've only sprayed one Sharpe before...a razor? IIRC? But worked nice. I'd say as long as its all sized properly fluid tip wise for the material, and you keep it good and clean it should do you well over the long term. Cleaning is really the key with keeping any gun spraying well, obviously.

Yup, With the exception of a few dings in the can she looks just like it did when I bought it. Had to rebuild it once in the last 7 years becuase of one seal that dried out. All in all I'm very happy with it, and if you tell me it's not a piece of junk, I'll keep on rolling with it. What I would love to try are those 3M cans that can be sprayed at any angle. I'd love to try those out.

Originally Posted by classicauto

Project86 - yes I do this professionally


As for spraying over cheap base coat with good clear - it can be done. Generally speaking, something like limco base (limco 4?) is *decent* product, but what makes a top end product isn't always just about material "quality". Limco paint line has alot of matches for factory colours, but they won't be as accurate as RM, Onyx or glasurit, they won't dry as fast, they may not cover as well etc etc etc. There's far more to a premium paint then simply durability - although durability is part of it. But in the case of a single paint job, often the cost savings can be worth it for a one timer or hobbyist. In a production shop setting you have to look at price vs. true cost so thats where premium lines really win out.

Make sure to verify via a tech line what products are recommend to top coat whatever you're spraying for colour. Alot of the time, most anything will do. But in some cases specialty clears may not be recommended over low end base, so be certain whatever you're combining *will* work.....according to the paint manufacturer.

Again, ain't those few points the truth.

[JerryLH3]

Originally Posted by project86

That can work. What brand are you using for paint?

Probably PPG, but I've yet to settle on anything in the paint department. Heck, I'm still mulling over a color change.

[Max777]

Umm, thank you for all the advice, I honestly did not expect so many people to reply.... I did want to shine a bit more light on the situation though, so you can get a better idea where I'm coming from:

I'm a 20yo automotive college student and $8.25/hour Volvo Apprentice Tech. My car is a 1986 mazda with 150,000 miles. I'm not going to be doing collision work for a living, and the way some of you talk about $700 paint guns and $2000 paint, makes it sound like you think I'm a trust fund kid.

I got my TII for 1800, and put a lot of money into it just to get it somewhat reliable and drivable. I dont give a flying fuck if it's not perfect. All I care about is that the car is one color, looks shiny, and doesn't have a ton of dings and scratch marks all over the place. Sure, I could wait forever, and have my car sit for 3 years in the garage, and then have a nice fc... or I can make things move a little quicker, and actually DRIVE my car? I think I'll take the second one.

So far, I got Sherwin Williams BMW alpine white for $270 out the door. (This is sealer, base, clear, and the hardener/reducer needed to spray the whole car) 35% student discount again.


EDIT: Yeah, I looked at compressors, it seems like I'll either look into my 40% student discount with some tool companies, or try to get one at auction/craigslist.

For a gun, I'll shop around. A nice snap-on DA will prolly run me like $125 new, so I might as well pick one up...

Anyway, I'll see how my car goes, and might as well wait for school to start back up...

[project86]

i hear where you are coming from man. Im also 20 and just graduated with a degree in collision repair. and right now im jobless but im gettin ready to be in the air force so i hear ya on the money thing too. good luck and keep us updated on the build and paint job.