De-ABSing the FD

[GySgtFrank]

Originally Posted by C. Ludwig

I've used the cheap flare tools with a bit of success but have since started having a local brake specialist cut and flare all my lines. I use coat hanger or similar to lay out the lines and get a length and take that and the tube nuts in and have them make up the lines. The line is higher quality and has proven to be more corrosion resistant than what I'd bought through Summit and the flares never leak. Stainless line is also an option if you want something that looks really nice. Just to be clear, this shop isn't one of the $99 four wheel brake places. They do mostly fleet service and do top rate stuff. Any decently large town should have something similar in the area.

Also, working in the OE production world, one of the tricks we use on leaky flare fittings is tighten and loosen the fitting 4-5 times in succession. Many times this will help a flare that's not quite right to get itself sealed up.

Originally Posted by RXtacy

It may seem like semantics, but I hope that is actually Nickle/Copper alloy tubing which is DOT approved. Plain copper tubing would not be a good idea for a brake system.

http://fedhillusa.com/

The flaring tools they sell/rent are top notch and the tubing beats the hell out of automotive store tubing.

[speedjunkie]

Originally Posted by C. Ludwig

I've used the cheap flare tools with a bit of success but have since started having a local brake specialist cut and flare all my lines. I use coat hanger or similar to lay out the lines and get a length and take that and the tube nuts in and have them make up the lines. The line is higher quality and has proven to be more corrosion resistant than what I'd bought through Summit and the flares never leak. Stainless line is also an option if you want something that looks really nice. Just to be clear, this shop isn't one of the $99 four wheel brake places. They do mostly fleet service and do top rate stuff. Any decently large town should have something similar in the area.

Also, working in the OE production world, one of the tricks we use on leaky flare fittings is tighten and loosen the fitting 4-5 times in succession. Many times this will help a flare that's not quite right to get itself sealed up.

Well my lines seem to be holding still, but I was sooooo close to getting the Eastwood kit.

That's good to know. Thanks!

Originally Posted by RXtacy

It may seem like semantics, but I hope that is actually Nickle/Copper alloy tubing which is DOT approved. Plain copper tubing would not be a good idea for a brake system.

Actually it is Nickel/Copper. I just call it copper lol.

Originally Posted by GySgtFrank

http://fedhillusa.com/

The flaring tools they sell/rent are top notch and the tubing beats the hell out of automotive store tubing.

I've seen that website before. I probably would have done that originally if I'd known about it at the time.

[Fendamonky]

Originally Posted by GySgtFrank

http://fedhillusa.com/

The flaring tools they sell/rent are top notch and the tubing beats the hell out of automotive store tubing.

Thanks for the link Gunny!!

[730RWHP12A]

here are some pics of the ABS delete kit I make, I use automotive bundy tubing that's double flared , with zero flex line.. the kits now come with all steel fittings, no more aluminum. kit includes an adjustable proportioning valve so you can fine tune your brakes as well.
I also have a kit for the 929 master cylinder as well, I will post some pics .
everyone that's installed these kits loves the quality and fitment of the kit

why someone would sell a flexline ABS delete kit is beyond me.. what an epic fail in so many ways! brake fluid gets really hot, Teflon line gets soft, and there goes your braking!

[Fendamonky]

Why do you exclude the front brakes from your proportioning valve?

Yeah, the $250 soft line kit is a bit of a laugh... I'm currently up in the air on whether I want to get the Wilwood 2 inlet, 3 outlet, prop valve, or just use the factory one and T the front brake lines.

[GySgtFrank]

Originally Posted by Fendamonky

Why do you exclude the front brakes from your proportioning valve?

Because you want full pressure to your front brakes. The rears you want to set so they lock slightly after the fronts do. If the rear brakes lock first, the car will want to swap ends on you. This could be considered a bad thing in the middle of a corner.

[730RWHP12A]

Originally Posted by GySgtFrank

Because you want full pressure to your front brakes. The rears you want to set so they lock slightly after the fronts do. If the rear brakes lock first, the car will want to swap ends on you. This could be considered a bad thing in the middle of a corner.

well said! thank you for your accurate input!

[730RWHP12A]

here are some pics with the bigger 929 master cylinder installed..
I always have both kits in stock ready to ship

[730RWHP12A]

current pics (snapped these today) of the kit with all steel fittings.. shipping this one to Chad in Kentucky

[C. Ludwig]

Good lookin!

[turboed13b]

Originally Posted by speedjunkie

Ok, I'm an idiot lol. Last night I had it typed out correctly and then changed it thinking I had it wrong. Turns out I was right the first time. The port directly under the reservoir goes to the rear brakes, and the port at the end of the master cylinder goes to the front brakes. Here are pics of the current setup. I finally got them to stop seeping but I'm still paranoid lol, thus the towels. The whole system is pressurized and the brakes are bled, but I'm paranoid because the engine bay has fresh paint also. The bender tool dinked the lines a little but it made the bends much tighter and cleaner looking. I ran the line for the front brakes between the master cylinder and the reservoir just because it seemed like the most direct route.

For future reference it does not matter where the brake line goes to. Both ports are the same size internally. It's the proportional valves job to create the brake bias.

[speedjunkie]

OK good to know. I wasn't sure, I just hooked it up the same way my buddy did his. Thanks!