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Old 12-18-2012, 04:45 AM   #16
RICE RACING
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That boost controller is sick as fuck! see my threads for how gag factor it is, if you set it up right you can input a few channels and have it as a mini data logger! and its rwhp power figure is super accurate too, same as what I get on the VBOX with my Don Mega Engineering skills from first principles. You cant beat em, great tool and sick ass boost control too.






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Old 12-19-2012, 02:31 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mitchocalypse View Post
Well went to do more stuff tonight.

First i mounted the relays here:

Not sure if you're already planning to, but I'd seal those relays somehow, with RTV or whatever. It's very annoying getting water into relays lol.
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Old 12-19-2012, 11:02 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedjunkie View Post
Not sure if you're already planning to, but I'd seal those relays somehow, with RTV or whatever. It's very annoying getting water into relays lol.
Ah, thanks for the pointer. You mean just seal off the plug area?
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Old 12-19-2012, 03:47 PM   #19
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Well basically just sealing up anywhere water can get in and wreak havoc. So if you put RTV on the undersides of the connectors where the wires go in, or if you wanted to do it cleaner somehow. But being behind the oil cooler and that close to the ground, I'd just be concerned with water getting in there.

The relay box that is mounted to the crossmember in the front of the engine bay, when I installed my VMIC I just hung that relay box upside down. One night it rained really bad and I went through a lot of water and it killed the car until it dried out. I'm still not entirely sure how it got in there other than running down the hood and through the cracks, but that wouldn't explain the deeper water I went through. Either way, I took a heat gun and dried it out and it was fine the next day. I've had problems getting water in my headlight relays too and they pop up and down until it dries out. That's pretty embarrassing lol.
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Old 12-20-2012, 04:12 PM   #20
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Alright, Thank you for the heads up!

Last night I de-powered the steering rack (thanks prodigy )

Here are some random pics of that:








And then my freinds dad needed the shop for a bit so we moved it to the barn with another fd. Was going to clean it in the parts washer but then it was getting late so i just put the steering rack back in temporarily to move the car.



Also grinded some brackets from the last setup off.

Now.. if I could just get those fuse boxes in place
Not sure whats going on this weekend but I'll see if there is an open bay to work in and hopefully get the engine bay painted and the engine installed.
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Old 12-20-2012, 05:46 PM   #21
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I hope I can help you this weekend bro!
CALL ME!!
PRODIGY!
I CAN'T WAIT TO SEE YOU BRO!!!
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I fixed a catastrophic engine failure, With a Zip-Tie.
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Old 12-22-2012, 03:08 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedjunkie View Post
Not sure if you're already planning to, but I'd seal those relays somehow, with RTV or whatever. It's very annoying getting water into relays lol.
you might want to try filling the shit out of those connections with die-electric grease before you try rtv... if you got grease in there it should displace any water trying to get in

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Mitch If you need help I'm free this weekend
give me a call

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I'm looking foreword to our next visit

no caps lock next time please... it was hurting my head

Mitch, you cut off the one seal on the rack portion of the steering system? did you weld the quill shaft aswell..?


either way.... its looking mighty fine... keep up the work habit..

edit: can you put up the link to the 7 club with the fuse box moving/wire tuck....?

thanks


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Last edited by Prodigy; 12-22-2012 at 03:11 PM.. Reason: I's forgot something
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Old 12-22-2012, 07:37 PM   #23
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http://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo-...rsion-1020999/

You do realize that "Rotaryevolution" went broke? he closed down his "business" BDC style cause he has no customers lol, could not run a shop at or make a living from it, now he just spams the internet LOL>

he has not one fucking idea of anything that is why he is a failure.

E85 is a KUUUUNT!
he obviously has done nothing in any realm similar to BDC or HC, I noticed since his "business" folded he has been spamming every thread known to man on gayclub.com BDC style and HC style.

I would not listed to one bit of advise from that useles kuuuuunt period. Just saying.

When he EVER is EVER makes a fast FD or own's one tell him to post it in our thread LOL, you will be waiting a Looooooooooooooooooooonnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnngggg ggggggggg time!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! since he has no customers, no talent, no set ups that he can share, all he can do is type shit on the internet Just Saying
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Old 12-22-2012, 07:43 PM   #24
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The ONLY point of failure is Karak or Rotaryevolutions business model LOL

Trust him and any other vendor on gayclub.com at your own risk

ALL of those kuuuuunttts have never proven anything except that they themselves have no running cars let alone ones that are fast Just Saying

You should take advice from people who are not vendors on gayforums, but people who are doers, people who have cars, people who actually are engineers, no cock wash wannabe's who pay for the right to post shit to bottom feeders on a shit forum like Karak rotaryevloution does.

I get tired of trying to help people when there are just soooo mannnnny kuuuuuuunts like him on the internet.

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Old 12-23-2012, 05:21 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prodigy View Post
you might want to try filling the shit out of those connections with die-electric grease before you try rtv... if you got grease in there it should displace any water trying to get in




no caps lock next time please... it was hurting my head

Mitch, you cut off the one seal on the rack portion of the steering system? did you weld the quill shaft as well..?


either way.... its looking mighty fine... keep up the work habit..

edit: can you put up the link to the 7 club with the fuse box moving/wire tuck....?

thanks


J.
Yes, seal was cut. And the quill shaft wasn't welded. I was trying to follow the DIY on the miata site best I could do the only welding done was on the fittings where the lines connected to the rack to give them a top like an actual screw and not just a hole.

However, I'm taking the rack out again tomorrow to clean it. I just ha to put it back in to move the car from location a to location b.

And about the wire tuck.. The DIY (prew's) wasnt that great.. I changed a lot of stuff and I think it is 1000 times easier my way and is 99% as clean in the end. Loses the 1% because I'm still using the plastic wire loom holders/ brackets that run under the bumper support and you can just barely see them. Mind you, that should go away when the bumper is actually ON. So when you come to help me put the engine in ( ) I'll give you a tour of the wiring

Quote:
Originally Posted by RICE RACING View Post
The ONLY point of failure is Karak or Rotaryevolutions business model LOL

Trust him and any other vendor on gayclub.com at your own risk

ALL of those kuuuuunttts have never proven anything except that they themselves have no running cars let alone ones that are fast Just Saying

You should take advice from people who are not vendors on gayforums, but people who are doers, people who have cars, people who actually are engineers, no cock wash wannabe's who pay for the right to post shit to bottom feeders on a shit forum like Karak rotaryevloution does.

I get tired of trying to help people when there are just soooo mannnnny kuuuuuuunts like him on the internet.

I often wondered about Karack.. In his posts he seems to know his stuff pretty good but then as mentionned, why did his business crater? I don't like seeing a small business go down like that but at the same time, that doesn't happen for no reason. And it's not like other rotary shops are in some kind of hardship right now.

I didn't realize the Biggest flaw of the other forum until you pointed it out.. Paying vendors are always correct. Even if they are wrong. And if you try to correct them, you are wrong, your post is deleted, and you are given a warning/ban.

And I was really strongly considering having Karack do my engine because a lot of the stuff he posts is seemingly legit. But maybe that's because any opposition and discussion of the subject matter is deleted so a vendor appears correct and knowledgable.

I'm tired and ranting.
/day
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Old 12-23-2012, 05:46 AM   #26
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I am right in what I say.
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Old 12-23-2012, 12:04 PM   #27
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Wow, Karack...blast from the past.
Another FC shit talker...
Yeah, Karack knows some stuff, but he's got an attitude problem - IMNSHO.

As for RTV and electrical connections...
DON'T do it.
Most RTV silicones have steric acid in them.
Steric acid is also in vinegar - that's what causes that "sour" smell.
Acid + electrical connections is NOT a good combination.
Don't get RTV (i.e. steric acid) on your electrical connections unless you want them to fail.
Use di-electric grease to seal electrical connectors.
That's the proper way take care of this.


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Old 12-23-2012, 03:53 PM   #28
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Um silicone is totally fine, Dow Corning make two type, NEUTRAL cure and ACIDIC cure, just ask for 732 RTV NEUTRAL CURE. It works perfectly and is what motec use to make a water proof ECU LOL!!!!!!!!!!

Dodgy as fuck, but kuuuuuuuunts do it, silicone packed electronics are common place.
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Old 12-23-2012, 06:59 PM   #29
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That would work Rice... but what's the point of RTVing the end of the connectors.. I would pull them out of the plastic casing dip them in the die electric grease then reinsert while liberally applying it in around everything else.

but Eh... that's just me...

PS. Mitch.... about your comment.. welcome to the 'dark side'

J.
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Old 12-28-2012, 03:04 PM   #30
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Ah.. was up till 5:30 last night working on this thing. Then I was late for work by several hours. Oh well, it's dead here and it's my second last day.

So the engine bay was painted satin black. Turned out very good actually, and last night we slammed the keg in.

Here is the steering rack installed for the final time: Unfortunately the steering wheel doesn't site perfectly straight (tried the column in a few different spots on the spline but it wouldn't work so i guess whoever does my alignment can fix this.)





Then spent a while trying to figure how to work the clutch release fork thing, and finally got it. Old clutch off, new throwout bearing on:



The engine going in:


One last shot of the sexy clutch:



Aaaaand, welcome home mr. 13B.

I was having big troubles getting the mounts in and mating it with the tranny so i just took the mounts off the bracket and put them in the holes for them and it made it 10000000X easier.



and one last one:
it looks like there is some dirt in the engine bay but i assure you it's just light. I need a better camera lol

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