The Official FC Radiator Thread.

vex · 08-26-2008, 05:44 PM

Here's some pictures of an AFCO radiator (I took Teds advice and picked this one up)

I still need to pick up some rubber/isolators to make sure I don't start any electrolysis in there... No need for a leaky radiator. I'm still wondering how I'm going to anchor the radiator without having metal on metal contact... I'll have to think about it.

TehMonkay · 08-26-2008, 07:30 PM

Nylon bolts/washers?

vex · 08-26-2008, 08:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TehMonkay

Nylon bolts/washers?

You know i've never seen a nylon bolt...

need RX7 · 08-26-2008, 08:55 PM

Anyone have experience with the Corksport radiator?

TehMonkay · 08-26-2008, 11:52 PM

http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.ph...lt#post5955964

Nylon bolts

WE3RX7 · 08-27-2008, 09:59 PM

Vex - did you consider taking it to a tig shop to have the mounting tabs added on? You could do this and still spend less than the Ron Davis. Its what I plan to do with my Afco

You can of course use rubber mounting points as well in this setup... there are a few decent TIG shops in VA.

Shainiac · 08-27-2008, 11:49 PM

I bought an Afco a few weeks ago and installed it. Lucky for me, I live 30 miles from Afco's headquarters AND I worked for a shop that does a lot of dirt track parts business with Afco. I picked up my 26" Dual Pass for a whopping $173

I started off by relocating the battery, which has already been stated. To get this thing in the car, I bough 2 - 3'x1"x1/8" strips of 6061 alum and bent them into "J"shaped brackets lined with weather stripping to cradle the rad under the endtanks. I then used AllThread(sp) and locknuts to keep the top of the rad from moving around and finished it off with weather stripping to keep from rubbing. I used a Taurus fan which fit fine. The only problem I ran into was the return for the heater core. Since the lower rad outlet was 1 3/4" instead of 1 1/2", I had to build an adapter and introduce a "T" for the heater. I had a welder at work make me one out of scrap chromoly since it was free and going to get thrown away. The last hickup was that there is only a few inches between my lower rad adapter and the water pump housing. I managed to hack the old lower hose up enough to get it on there, but its not pretty. In hindsight, I would have made the adapter curved a bit so It wouldnt put the hose in such a bind. Ive put probably 300 miles on the thing and it seems to be hold up fine.

I didnt get a chance to take pictures before I headed back to school, but to say the least, This thing works well! On the interstate with the stock rad and fan, my streetport NA would run 185-190, read from the thermostat housing with a mechanical autometer gauge. NOW, with the new radiator and semi-restricitive Taurus fan and NO ducting between the rad and bumper (wasnt there when I got the car), The car runs dead on 180 cruising at 80mph. If I kick the fan on low, It pulls closer to 170-175!
Next time I get a change, Ill take some pictures for everyone.

TehMonkay · 08-28-2008, 12:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shainiac

I bought an Afco a few weeks ago and installed it. Lucky for me, I live 30 miles from Afco's headquarters AND I worked for a shop that does a lot of dirt track parts business with Afco. I picked up my 26" Dual Pass for a whopping $173

I started off by relocating the battery, which has already been stated. To get this thing in the car, I bough 2 - 3'x1"x1/8" strips of 6061 alum and bent them into "J"shaped brackets lined with weather stripping to cradle the rad under the endtanks. I then used AllThread(sp) and locknuts to keep the top of the rad from moving around and finished it off with weather stripping to keep from rubbing. I used a Taurus fan which fit fine. The only problem I ran into was the return for the heater core. Since the lower rad outlet was 1 3/4" instead of 1 1/2", I had to build an adapter and introduce a "T" for the heater. I had a welder at work make me one out of scrap chromoly since it was free and going to get thrown away. The last hickup was that there is only a few inches between my lower rad adapter and the water pump housing. I managed to hack the old lower hose up enough to get it on there, but its not pretty. In hindsight, I would have made the adapter curved a bit so It wouldnt put the hose in such a bind. Ive put probably 300 miles on the thing and it seems to be hold up fine.

I didnt get a chance to take pictures before I headed back to school, but to say the least, This thing works well! On the interstate with the stock rad and fan, my streetport NA would run 185-190, read from the thermostat housing with a mechanical autometer gauge. NOW, with the new radiator and semi-restricitive Taurus fan and NO ducting between the rad and bumper (wasnt there when I got the car), The car runs dead on 180 cruising at 80mph. If I kick the fan on low, It pulls closer to 170-175!
Next time I get a change, Ill take some pictures for everyone.

where in indiana are you?

Shainiac · 08-28-2008, 07:26 AM

Around Evansville, but I go to school in Indy.

WE3RX7 · 08-28-2008, 11:12 AM

I'd be interested to see your pics as I thought about the "Cradle" bracket method too..

djmtsu · 08-28-2008, 11:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shainiac

I picked up my 26" Dual Pass for a whopping $173

Why didn't you get this one instead?

http://www.afabcorp.com/AFCO_Dynatec...ode=CS_cooling

Shainiac · 08-28-2008, 01:19 PM

The 26" that I got fits the stock rad passage just fine. I could have made the 28" fit, but it probably would have required cutting to allow air to the additional 2" of core width. Also, the rails for mounting the cradles would probably be sacrificed. With the 26", the clearance between my stock AFM and cone filter is already tight. I really doubt Im ever going to need that extra 2" anyways seeing how this radiator will keep more powerful cars with an intercooler cool. The folks down at Afco are really helpful. If I felt like paying a bit more, they offered to put on a 1-1/2" lower outlet and a 3/4" barb for the heater. I think they estimated around $60.

vex · 08-28-2008, 11:29 PM

i'll update closer to the weekend on what the plan is. I have been playing catch up on school work and my car has been at the shop for about the past week getting the bushings put in.

Shainiac · 09-07-2008, 07:29 PM

Any updates on your install?
Ive been doing some driving in my car since I got it installed and its working like a charm.
I had a chance to do some night driving at around 75F ambient temps.
With the Taurus fan on low, I was running 173F at around 60mph!
I made the mistake of turning my fan off because I was afraid It was running too low. I forgot to turn it back on when I got into the city and after a couple redlights, I noticed the needle climbing around 220F! I popped my last 2 motors because of a inferior cooling system. Id hate to blow this one because Im a dumbass.
I still havent taken any pictures of the setup. I have to admit that it isnt anything fancy and some might turn their nose and call it "ghetty". To some it might be, but being in college, broke, and pressed for time, I think it turned out alright. I suspect that It will be much more efficient after I get it all ducted with aluminum sheeting and alum tape. If I get some track time before winter, Im going to try to see how my temps are before I make any other changes.

WE3RX7 · 09-07-2008, 07:47 PM

^ Why don't you run your fans through a thermal switch? Playing around with a simple on/off switch for the fan is dangerous. We lost a drag motor once that way, lol... expensive mistake!

08-26-2008, 05:44 PM	#16
vex RCC Loves Me Not You Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Influx. iTrader: (6) Posts: 2,113 Rep Power: 19	Here's some pictures of an AFCO radiator (I took Teds advice and picked this one up) I still need to pick up some rubber/isolators to make sure I don't start any electrolysis in there... No need for a leaky radiator. I'm still wondering how I'm going to anchor the radiator without having metal on metal contact... I'll have to think about it. __________________ The Official FC Radiator Thread My Project Thread: Cerberus CCVT Virginia Rotary Group

08-26-2008, 07:30 PM	#17
TehMonkay Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Louisville, KY iTrader: (0) Posts: 302 Rep Power: 17	Nylon bolts/washers? __________________ My car blows up everytime I start it, it's rotary

08-26-2008, 08:55 PM	#19
need RX7 Clean S4 Nutswinger Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Sterling Heights, MI iTrader: (0) Posts: 485 Rep Power: 17	Anyone have experience with the Corksport radiator? __________________ -Ted -1986 Mazda RX7 Sport [DD/beater]: engine finally let go at 205k. parts car status. -1986 Mazda RX7 base [resto-mod project]: S5 n/a swap in progress.

08-26-2008, 11:52 PM	#20
TehMonkay Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Louisville, KY iTrader: (0) Posts: 302 Rep Power: 17	http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.ph...lt#post5955964 Nylon bolts __________________ My car blows up everytime I start it, it's rotary

08-28-2008, 11:29 PM	#28
vex RCC Loves Me Not You Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Influx. iTrader: (6) Posts: 2,113 Rep Power: 19	i'll update closer to the weekend on what the plan is. I have been playing catch up on school work and my car has been at the shop for about the past week getting the bushings put in. __________________ The Official FC Radiator Thread My Project Thread: Cerberus CCVT Virginia Rotary Group

08-27-2008, 09:59 PM	#21
WE3RX7 RCC Addict Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: VA iTrader: (1) Posts: 1,812 Rep Power: 18	Vex - did you consider taking it to a tig shop to have the mounting tabs added on? You could do this and still spend less than the Ron Davis. Its what I plan to do with my Afco You can of course use rubber mounting points as well in this setup... there are a few decent TIG shops in VA.

08-27-2008, 11:49 PM	#22
Shainiac The Newbie Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Indiana iTrader: (0) Posts: 17 Rep Power: 0	I bought an Afco a few weeks ago and installed it. Lucky for me, I live 30 miles from Afco's headquarters AND I worked for a shop that does a lot of dirt track parts business with Afco. I picked up my 26" Dual Pass for a whopping $173 I started off by relocating the battery, which has already been stated. To get this thing in the car, I bough 2 - 3'x1"x1/8" strips of 6061 alum and bent them into "J"shaped brackets lined with weather stripping to cradle the rad under the endtanks. I then used AllThread(sp) and locknuts to keep the top of the rad from moving around and finished it off with weather stripping to keep from rubbing. I used a Taurus fan which fit fine. The only problem I ran into was the return for the heater core. Since the lower rad outlet was 1 3/4" instead of 1 1/2", I had to build an adapter and introduce a "T" for the heater. I had a welder at work make me one out of scrap chromoly since it was free and going to get thrown away. The last hickup was that there is only a few inches between my lower rad adapter and the water pump housing. I managed to hack the old lower hose up enough to get it on there, but its not pretty. In hindsight, I would have made the adapter curved a bit so It wouldnt put the hose in such a bind. Ive put probably 300 miles on the thing and it seems to be hold up fine. I didnt get a chance to take pictures before I headed back to school, but to say the least, This thing works well! On the interstate with the stock rad and fan, my streetport NA would run 185-190, read from the thermostat housing with a mechanical autometer gauge. NOW, with the new radiator and semi-restricitive Taurus fan and NO ducting between the rad and bumper (wasnt there when I got the car), The car runs dead on 180 cruising at 80mph. If I kick the fan on low, It pulls closer to 170-175! Next time I get a change, Ill take some pictures for everyone.

08-28-2008, 07:26 AM	#24
Shainiac The Newbie Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Indiana iTrader: (0) Posts: 17 Rep Power: 0	Around Evansville, but I go to school in Indy.

08-28-2008, 11:12 AM	#25
WE3RX7 RCC Addict Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: VA iTrader: (1) Posts: 1,812 Rep Power: 18	I'd be interested to see your pics as I thought about the "Cradle" bracket method too..

08-28-2008, 01:19 PM	#27
Shainiac The Newbie Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Indiana iTrader: (0) Posts: 17 Rep Power: 0	The 26" that I got fits the stock rad passage just fine. I could have made the 28" fit, but it probably would have required cutting to allow air to the additional 2" of core width. Also, the rails for mounting the cradles would probably be sacrificed. With the 26", the clearance between my stock AFM and cone filter is already tight. I really doubt Im ever going to need that extra 2" anyways seeing how this radiator will keep more powerful cars with an intercooler cool. The folks down at Afco are really helpful. If I felt like paying a bit more, they offered to put on a 1-1/2" lower outlet and a 3/4" barb for the heater. I think they estimated around $60.

09-07-2008, 07:29 PM	#29
Shainiac The Newbie Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Indiana iTrader: (0) Posts: 17 Rep Power: 0	Any updates on your install? Ive been doing some driving in my car since I got it installed and its working like a charm. I had a chance to do some night driving at around 75F ambient temps. With the Taurus fan on low, I was running 173F at around 60mph! I made the mistake of turning my fan off because I was afraid It was running too low. I forgot to turn it back on when I got into the city and after a couple redlights, I noticed the needle climbing around 220F! I popped my last 2 motors because of a inferior cooling system. Id hate to blow this one because Im a dumbass. I still havent taken any pictures of the setup. I have to admit that it isnt anything fancy and some might turn their nose and call it "ghetty". To some it might be, but being in college, broke, and pressed for time, I think it turned out alright. I suspect that It will be much more efficient after I get it all ducted with aluminum sheeting and alum tape. If I get some track time before winter, Im going to try to see how my temps are before I make any other changes.

09-07-2008, 07:47 PM	#30
WE3RX7 RCC Addict Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: VA iTrader: (1) Posts: 1,812 Rep Power: 18	^ Why don't you run your fans through a thermal switch? Playing around with a simple on/off switch for the fan is dangerous. We lost a drag motor once that way, lol... expensive mistake!