MG Midget Madness (i.e. It was either this or kill it with fire)

almoststockfc · 10-26-2015, 01:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GySgtFrank

Pushing hard to have this one at DGRR. My track record for getting a car there is less than admirable though.

lol ditto

djmtsu · 10-26-2015, 02:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GySgtFrank

Pushing hard to have this one at DGRR. My track record for getting a car there is less than admirable though.

Quote:

Originally Posted by almoststockfc

lol ditto

ditto......

FC Zach · 10-26-2015, 02:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by djmtsu

ditto......

WE3RX7 · 10-26-2015, 05:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GySgtFrank

Done with work, so back to the car. Ordered exhaust parts from Racing Beat and am in search of perforated SS tubing to build a couple of mufflers. Also in need of an S4 wiring harness which I have not been able to find as of yet.

Which S4 harness you need? High or low imp injector harness/clips? I might have one laying around in the shop but I can't remember which it is.. I'll have to take a look lol...

GySgtFrank · 10-26-2015, 05:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WE3RX7

Which S4 harness you need? High or low imp injector harness/clips? I might have one laying around in the shop but I can't remember which it is.. I'll have to take a look lol...

Shit!, I don't remember. I had it figured out once too, but old timers disease has struck again. The engine is from a 1987 GXL.

edit: spent the day putting together a cardboard template so I can get a radiator ordered from Ron Davis Radiators. This trying to fit 10lbs of potatoes in a 5lb sack is getting a little tedious.

Here are some pictures of my primary injectors and one of my better injector clips. Somebody should be able to identify them without having to go digging again.

primary injectors by Kevin Frank, on Flickr

injector clip 2 by Kevin Frank, on Flickr

injector clip 1 by Kevin Frank, on Flickr

GySgtFrank · 10-29-2015, 12:30 PM

OK. Since nobody can identify whether my injectors are high or low impedence by sight, I will need to go digging to find out again.

I wish I would write these things down.

So, my exhaust parts showed up today.

exhaust parts by Kevin Frank, on Flickr

2 - 48" long straight pieces of 2"OD .120 wall tubing (The extra shorter piece is what I have left from my earlier adventures)

3 - 48" long pieces of perforated 409 SS tube (The ones in the cardboard tubes. I probably got more than I am going to need for this project, but they weren't that expensive.)

5 - 3" radius 180 degree mandrel bends (same tube as the straight pieces)

2 - 4" radius 180 degree mandrel bends (again, same tube as the straight pieces)

4 - SS Racing beat road race flanges

4 - Mild steel Racing beat road race flanges

5 - Exhaust gaskets for above flanges

The only pieces that I should need to complete the exhaust system now should be SS wool for muffler packing, more hangers, aluminum sheet for heat shielding, and SS sheet to make the muffler cases. I am not too sure that I want to total up what the exhaust system for this thing is going to end up costing. :shudders:

RXtacy · 10-29-2015, 01:18 PM

Looking forward to seeing how this comes out.

RETed · 10-29-2015, 02:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GySgtFrank

OK. Since nobody can identify whether my injectors are high or low impedence by sight, I will need to go digging to find out again.

Your *fuel injectors* are low-impedence.

I dunno about those clips though...
The offset key is a late-87 or 1988 model harness.
I'm not an NA guy, but the offset key on a turbo FC means high-impedence.

Finding those rectangle, off-set key fuel injectors might not be easy...
If not, just clip them and use "Bosch" plugs to fit those low-impedence fuel injectors and just add a ballast resistor in the circuit.

-Ted

GySgtFrank · 10-29-2015, 02:58 PM

Thanks Mike and Ted. I figured somebody would have the answer. It is going to be a while until I get to the injectors and wiring, now that I have the money for parts. I need to get the exhaust and cooling system done before I can move on to pulling the engine again. It needs to come back out so I can get the finish welding done and wire it up.

djmtsu · 10-29-2015, 02:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GySgtFrank

OK. Since nobody can identify whether my injectors are high or low impedence by sight, I will need to go digging to find out again.

Soooooooo.......you don't know how to work a multimeter?

That's OK, because you can weld

GySgtFrank · 10-29-2015, 03:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by djmtsu

Soooooooo.......you don't know how to work a multimeter?

That's OK, because you can weld

Multimeter assumes that you have functional wiring which I seem to be somewhat short of, besides I'm a lazy old fart.

RXtacy · 10-29-2015, 03:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GySgtFrank

Multimeter assumes that you have functional wiring which I seem to be somewhat short of, besides I'm a lazy old fart.

You would be taking the impedance across the injector, so "functional" wiring would be of no consequence.

I would assume low is in the 2-3 Ohm range w/ high being ~12.

GySgtFrank · 10-29-2015, 03:57 PM

You are determined to get me side tracked aren't you?

My neighbor/landlord used my multimeter to test a 200amp line going to the house. The leads didn't survive and the meter seems to have lost it's mind. I guess I really need to buy a good quality multimeter again one of these days. Any suggestions on a good one? I've had enough of the cheapies that work a time or two and then you have to throw them away.

Right now I'm trying to get my pipe bender stand fixed. Welding the crappy casters that I replaced on my wheel dollies to the stand so I can move the heavy bastage. I need it out where I can work on my perforated tubing.

JL1RX7 · 10-29-2015, 04:51 PM

Gunny - Fluke if you have a big budget. They are worth it. But hot damn do they cost an arm and a kidney. The one I use for work lists around 800. You should be able to find a decent one in the 150 to 200 range.

hades · 10-29-2015, 04:58 PM

Good luck old man.

10-29-2015, 12:30 PM	#171
GySgtFrank Professional Stick Poker Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Stafford, Ks. iTrader: (0) Posts: 1,005 Rep Power: 15	OK. Since nobody can identify whether my injectors are high or low impedence by sight, I will need to go digging to find out again. I wish I would write these things down. So, my exhaust parts showed up today. exhaust parts by Kevin Frank, on Flickr 2 - 48" long straight pieces of 2"OD .120 wall tubing (The extra shorter piece is what I have left from my earlier adventures) 3 - 48" long pieces of perforated 409 SS tube (The ones in the cardboard tubes. I probably got more than I am going to need for this project, but they weren't that expensive.) 5 - 3" radius 180 degree mandrel bends (same tube as the straight pieces) 2 - 4" radius 180 degree mandrel bends (again, same tube as the straight pieces) 4 - SS Racing beat road race flanges 4 - Mild steel Racing beat road race flanges 5 - Exhaust gaskets for above flanges The only pieces that I should need to complete the exhaust system now should be SS wool for muffler packing, more hangers, aluminum sheet for heat shielding, and SS sheet to make the muffler cases. I am not too sure that I want to total up what the exhaust system for this thing is going to end up costing. :shudders: __________________ 1979 SA22C (parts of one anyway) http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=15585 1975 MG Midget (building) http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=18681 1988 N/A SE model FC, dead stock and less than 85k on the clock. This one actually runs, so I don't fuck with it.

10-29-2015, 02:58 PM	#174
GySgtFrank Professional Stick Poker Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Stafford, Ks. iTrader: (0) Posts: 1,005 Rep Power: 15	Thanks Mike and Ted. I figured somebody would have the answer. It is going to be a while until I get to the injectors and wiring, now that I have the money for parts. I need to get the exhaust and cooling system done before I can move on to pulling the engine again. It needs to come back out so I can get the finish welding done and wire it up. __________________ 1979 SA22C (parts of one anyway) http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=15585 1975 MG Midget (building) http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=18681 1988 N/A SE model FC, dead stock and less than 85k on the clock. This one actually runs, so I don't fuck with it.

10-29-2015, 03:57 PM	#178
GySgtFrank Professional Stick Poker Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Stafford, Ks. iTrader: (0) Posts: 1,005 Rep Power: 15	You are determined to get me side tracked aren't you? My neighbor/landlord used my multimeter to test a 200amp line going to the house. The leads didn't survive and the meter seems to have lost it's mind. I guess I really need to buy a good quality multimeter again one of these days. Any suggestions on a good one? I've had enough of the cheapies that work a time or two and then you have to throw them away. Right now I'm trying to get my pipe bender stand fixed. Welding the crappy casters that I replaced on my wheel dollies to the stand so I can move the heavy bastage. I need it out where I can work on my perforated tubing. __________________ 1979 SA22C (parts of one anyway) http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=15585 1975 MG Midget (building) http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=18681 1988 N/A SE model FC, dead stock and less than 85k on the clock. This one actually runs, so I don't fuck with it.

10-29-2015, 04:58 PM	#180
hades Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Freedom Land iTrader: (0) Posts: 316 Rep Power: 17	Good luck old man. __________________ This is going to tear

10-29-2015, 04:51 PM	#179
JL1RX7 Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Front Royal, VA iTrader: (1) Posts: 487 Rep Power: 17	Gunny - Fluke if you have a big budget. They are worth it. But hot damn do they cost an arm and a kidney. The one I use for work lists around 800. You should be able to find a decent one in the 150 to 200 range.