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#166 |
Rotary Fanatic
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 183
Rep Power: 16 ![]() |
Worked on the fuel lines today. Had to get special low profile 90 degree -6 and -8 hose ends for them to clear under the fuel panel in the back.
Then I went to work on covering them so they can't rub on anything. This is all E85 safe SS fuel line. Two -6 feeds and a -8 return. Plain line: ![]() Black heat shrink for protection, then labeled for future convenience, and clear adhesive tubing over the ends and labels: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Also made the duct for the radiator. Fits the bumper perfect, and then tapers to the radiator. the FMIC sits square in the middle of the bumper, so anything that gets around the sides goes straight to the radiator. I'll redo this later on with a single piece of aluminum. It will be easy to make now that I've got this as a template. ![]() ![]() Not many front mounts of a decent size let fresh air get to the radiator ![]() |
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#167 |
Rotary Fanatic
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 183
Rep Power: 16 ![]() |
I had IRP upgrade my alternator. I had dropped off my powdercoated housings last week and picked up the upgraded unit yesterday. All bolted on:
![]() A few shots of it coming together: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Still a lot to do before deals gap though. Going to be a long week. |
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#168 |
Rotary Fanatic
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 273
Rep Power: 14 ![]() |
When this engine is done and complete, it will deffinatly be added as a background on my computer.
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#169 | |
Rotary Fanatic
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 142
Rep Power: 18 ![]() |
Quote:
![]() Ducting looks good, and I love the labeled lines ![]()
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#170 |
Rotary Fanatic
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 183
Rep Power: 16 ![]() |
Thanks John,
Unfortunately this week hasn't gone very well so far though. Everything seems to be taking forever. I'm taking tomorrow off of work, and working all weekend on it. That's 3 solid days to do the following: Must do's: Make the fuel lines Make the brake lines Make the coolant lines Make the vacuum lines Mount the wastegate solenoid Mount the MAP sensor Mount the EGT sensors and signal box Relocate meth pump (duct work is now in the way) Make one more oil cooler duct Port all the piping (smooth out rough edges) Add ICV to the plenum Remove the dash, finish the new wire harness, install it, re-install the dash Add oil Add coolant Get tuned (Monday night I hope) Like to do's Add brake ducts Install BBK Make A/C lines I need to have a productive 3 days. |
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#171 |
Rotary Fan in Training
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 95
Rep Power: 16 ![]() |
best of luck the car is coming out sick cant wait to see it on the dyno!!!!
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www.speed1allentown.com |
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#172 |
Rotary Fan in Training
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 78
Rep Power: 14 ![]() |
cant wait to see the graphs of this engine!
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#173 |
The Newbie
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 21
Rep Power: 0 ![]() |
I feel so bad for surfing the forums right now.. Garage keeps screaming my name!
Looking good |
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#174 |
Bartemann
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Norway
Posts: 22
Rep Power: 0 ![]() |
god damn, this is one sexy project, keep it up
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1992 Rx-7 Type R1 1978 mazda RX-4 WAGON antrasite/black edition carbody+fiberglass=boat Driving a LHD RX7 is like jerking of with your left hand. It can be done, but it just doesnt feel right the RX7`s: FB:financial burden FC: financial Crisis FD: financial disaste my rides: http://www.mazda-ogn.org/phpBB3/view...p?f=17&t=20083 http://www.mazda-ogn.org/phpBB3/view...hp?f=17&t=5233 |
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#175 |
Texas Fast
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Houston
Posts: 26
Rep Power: 0 ![]() |
O lord...no lag on a rotary, especially a 3rotor = ass whoopins
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#176 |
The Newbie
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 22
Rep Power: 0 ![]() |
That looks amazing, def checking back here for progress!
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#177 |
Rotary Fanatic
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 183
Rep Power: 16 ![]() |
All nighters are synonymous with DGRR haha.
Decided to hold off on my milspec wiring job, not enough time to have it back up and working unless I cut corners. So I decided just to relocate the fuse boxes in the engine bay (the new piping is now where they used to mount. I'm also cleaning the old wiring up a lot. So it's not quite what I want, but its a huge improvement and I'll eventually redo it and tuck it all inside after DGRR. The mess: ![]() Cut off: ![]() ![]() Tefsil Wire: ![]() New lengths added: ![]() ![]() 4 to 1 adhesive shrink insulation for the uninsulated crimps: ![]() 3 to 1 shrink wrap: ![]() ![]() Still need to fab up a bracket to actually hold it. Also extended the fan wires in a similar fashion, as well as ran new wires for the coils. Now all I have to do is add the new clips for the injectors and extend a few sensors. |
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#178 |
Rotary Fanatic
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 183
Rep Power: 16 ![]() |
New fuel line holder for my 3/8" SS twin feed lines, and 1/2" return line:
![]() Still holds the rear brake line in place. Making the lines: ![]() ![]() ![]() Also, a new idler pulley, ceramic ball bearing sweetness: ![]() New spot for my new FPR: It's too massive to put on the firewall. ![]() ![]() ![]() Custom clutch line to hide it better and save space: ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#179 |
Rotary Fanatic
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 183
Rep Power: 16 ![]() |
Finally started it. Was troubleshooting wiring for a long time because my spark and fuel injectors weren't firing. I had decided to move the switched 12V source for my ECU to the open slot on the top right corner of the fuse box by the clutch pedal.
All my wires were checking out ok, continuity everywhere it was needed and 12V sources and grounds were good. Just no signal going to anything. Checked my crank sensor, the wires and resistance were good. Then I looked at my ECU while I was cranking and noticed the LED's turned off and it would disconnect from my computer while I cranked. So I determined it was loosing power when I went to start it. Then I remembered I had changed the switched power source. So I changed it back to where it was, which was just highjacked off of the stock fuse for the fuel pump. And bam, it fired right up. So must be the top right 12V port of the fuse box looses power when the key goes to the "Start" location. It won't really idle yet, I've got to adjust the throttle body idle screw and the new larger injector settings. But it sounds pretty good. I also need to tighten down the turbo's vband flange. Here's the video, please ignore my excited friend haha. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gjr11...ature=youtu.be |
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#180 |
Test Whore - Admin
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Right Behind you son
Posts: 4,581
Rep Power: 10 ![]() |
You suck... couldn't wait ONE MORE DAY!?!?!?!
Been there, done that with the wiring... did it just 2 days agao actually with the rustang that I blew the mufflers up on ![]()
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-The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. -Angry Motherf*cker Mode ENGAGED- |
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