Synthetic/Petroleum views and change procedure

rx4ur7 · 10-09-2009, 02:16 PM

My opinion on synthetics has been to use them only sealed motors. ie no metering pump. Not in normal daily operation street vehicles.

Problems with early synthetics were that they do not mix with fuel and they do not serve as a lubricant under combustion. When Mobil 1 first came out I had a car come in that had been using it for 3000 miles, it was forming hard silica like deposits on the rotors and spark plugs. Went back to petroleum and eventually they went away. He was lucky none broke loose.

Another other issue was using them in applications that used petroleum and they found a place to leak out of making a mess of the garage and street.

Last issue was cost, you still have to change them frequently.

Since when oil gets dirty it is not only not as efficient as a cooling medium but that in oil injected systems you are doing nothing more than pumping dirt into the combustion chamber. And it is a fact that dirt isn’t a great lubricant.

I have replaced hundreds of rotor housings that had missing chrome that are proof.

I have been informed that new synthetics are ok to use. I would still confirm with the manufacturer that they guarantee that their synthetic was made specifically for two stroke use as a crankcase oil.

I will still say save your money and stick with petroleum based oil if you still have metering system. You still have to change the oil frequently. This may change if they keep changing the chemistry of petroleum oils. Since the newer SJ and newer oils have much less of the anti wear additive ZDDP that gives long term protection, (This is EPA reaction to the possible release of Phosphorus and zinc into the atmosphere is what I was told by a major oil producer) That being the case, SE to SH are the only grades recommended for use by many manufactures. Especially for older vehicles. The use of the newer oils in older cars will in effect shorted their life drastically. Newer vehicles are supposed to be immune because of the newer materials being used for motor components.

Some links to check out: http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html
http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/oilcansimple.htm
And if you want to read a lot: http://members.rennlist.com/oil/Motor%20Oil%20101.htm

Way back the way of changing oil included punching a hole in the oil filter to drain it. Trick was hitting it off center and just going through the can. Quick lube places were hammering them in the center and going deep. They bought a lot of motors because they knocked the check valve that is in top center down to the inlet oil port for the motor. The valve was a circular black plastic piece that if you did not look closely sat on top of the port. If you looked quickly everything looked fine. Put filter on customer drives a few miles and motor locks up.

The safest way to change the filter without making a mess is to remove the drain plug and oil filler cap then just loosen the filter enough to break the seal, then very lightly turn it back. You can also use a shop towel wrapped around the base. Go have a cup of coffee or give a good check to everything under the hood. I let them sit for 15 to 20 minutes. Remove filter see if anymore oil drains from the pan. Install drain plug then fill with oil before installing filter, especially FD3S, then install oil filter. Reason on FD3S is that because of the long filler neck if the oil in poured in too fast it can back up into the vent and vacuum system. Mazda recommends having the dipstick out to vent the oil system when filling.

***Herblenny*** · 10-09-2009, 02:46 PM

Great info! Thank you!

10-09-2009, 02:16 PM	#1
rx4ur7 Rotary since 1972 Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Tucson iTrader: (0) Posts: 231 Rep Power: 16	Synthetic/Petroleum views and change procedure My opinion on synthetics has been to use them only sealed motors. ie no metering pump. Not in normal daily operation street vehicles. Problems with early synthetics were that they do not mix with fuel and they do not serve as a lubricant under combustion. When Mobil 1 first came out I had a car come in that had been using it for 3000 miles, it was forming hard silica like deposits on the rotors and spark plugs. Went back to petroleum and eventually they went away. He was lucky none broke loose. Another other issue was using them in applications that used petroleum and they found a place to leak out of making a mess of the garage and street. Last issue was cost, you still have to change them frequently. Since when oil gets dirty it is not only not as efficient as a cooling medium but that in oil injected systems you are doing nothing more than pumping dirt into the combustion chamber. And it is a fact that dirt isn’t a great lubricant. I have replaced hundreds of rotor housings that had missing chrome that are proof. I have been informed that new synthetics are ok to use. I would still confirm with the manufacturer that they guarantee that their synthetic was made specifically for two stroke use as a crankcase oil. I will still say save your money and stick with petroleum based oil if you still have metering system. You still have to change the oil frequently. This may change if they keep changing the chemistry of petroleum oils. Since the newer SJ and newer oils have much less of the anti wear additive ZDDP that gives long term protection, (This is EPA reaction to the possible release of Phosphorus and zinc into the atmosphere is what I was told by a major oil producer) That being the case, SE to SH are the only grades recommended for use by many manufactures. Especially for older vehicles. The use of the newer oils in older cars will in effect shorted their life drastically. Newer vehicles are supposed to be immune because of the newer materials being used for motor components. Some links to check out: http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/oilcansimple.htm And if you want to read a lot: http://members.rennlist.com/oil/Motor%20Oil%20101.htm Way back the way of changing oil included punching a hole in the oil filter to drain it. Trick was hitting it off center and just going through the can. Quick lube places were hammering them in the center and going deep. They bought a lot of motors because they knocked the check valve that is in top center down to the inlet oil port for the motor. The valve was a circular black plastic piece that if you did not look closely sat on top of the port. If you looked quickly everything looked fine. Put filter on customer drives a few miles and motor locks up. The safest way to change the filter without making a mess is to remove the drain plug and oil filler cap then just loosen the filter enough to break the seal, then very lightly turn it back. You can also use a shop towel wrapped around the base. Go have a cup of coffee or give a good check to everything under the hood. I let them sit for 15 to 20 minutes. Remove filter see if anymore oil drains from the pan. Install drain plug then fill with oil before installing filter, especially FD3S, then install oil filter. Reason on FD3S is that because of the long filler neck if the oil in poured in too fast it can back up into the vent and vacuum system. Mazda recommends having the dipstick out to vent the oil system when filling.

10-09-2009, 02:46 PM	#2
*Herblenny* Founder/Administrator/Internet Pitbull :) Join Date: Jan 2008 iTrader: (11) Posts: 644 Rep Power: 10	Great info! Thank you! __________________ DGRR 2013 - Year of 13B www.DealsGapRotaryRally.com http://www.facebook.com/Herblenny